333 replies to this topic

[axistr]

G'day all, it's time to start a new Torana project for all the family to drive & enjoy. When I restored the hatch the biggest expence was the body work, so this time we went out to find a perfect body and after 12 months of looking high and low we purchased a one owner LH. As we already have a hatch this one had to have four doors, and the new torrie was almost to good to pull apart, It has a genuine 83,000 km on it. The car was purchased from an old lady who purchased it new when she was fifty. She was no longer able to drive it as she said it was to heavy to steer, I didn't have the hart to tell her that I do power steering conversions and told her I would take good care of it. It broke me up when she started crying when we drove it down her driveway.

As my son is doing an apprentiship in panel beating (2nd year) between us we should be able to compleate the build in our shed and have it ready for when he gets his black licence in 15 months so he can drive It to.

We have used the LH a bit since we bought it and taken her to a few shows and won a trophy for best original, but gets boring driving a stocker after a while so it's time to pull it off the road and turn it into a nice SLR5000 with an injected 5.0lt & six speed manual with all the mod cons. So over the last 12 months I have started collecting most of the parts needed for the build.

I hope some members will enjoy the thread and may help me along the way, and just maybe we can all learn something. I tend to think outside the box.

Lenny.


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[Stinga]

that is very clean, looks like a great score!

[Statler]

*suscribed*

[axistr]

Got her up on stands today, out with the old and in with the new. I put new bearing, gaskets & seals through the engine and sat it in the engine bay to do a pre fit before stripping out the engine bay for paint. The engine is out of a VS HSV clubsport. If anyone needs a compeate173 & trimatic with 83,000 km on them I am open to offers before I put them on ebay.

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I have decided to go 6pk serpentine belt system to run the additional accesories, air con & power steering pump. The alternator wouldn't fit in it's original VS position so I will have work out a new bracket system.

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[axistr]

G'day AD_75 the car is a 1975 build. I carn't believe how good the drive line is, the car drove like new and it was a shame to rip it out, it was the first time out since Holden fitted it on the assembly line.

Any one know how much the engine & Trimatic is worth these days, the radiator,tailshaft, alternator, starter motor the lot will go with it. ?

I finished specking up the gearbox today ready to do a trial fit next time I get a chance.

Brand new Tremec T56 Magnum close ratio box, they rate them at 700 hp so I reckon I the wife or even the kids will never break it with this engine,
They come standard with duel speedo pick ups (cable & electronic) same as the TKO series Tremec's.
The shifter will be in the same position as the aussie 4 speed.

The gearbox worked out $6,000 cheaper than Mal woods price, got it direct from Summit racing. The price included shipping it to my door.

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[tsn007]

This is a build project not to miss,

If your car is anything to go by this is going to be one hell of a car

looking for to seeing it,
cheers
tony

[axistr]

Got some time today to reposition the alternator & modify brackets. I mechined the crank pulley to suit the Holden harmonic balencer, now the three pulleys are all aligned. The power steering pump is aligned but need to finish the mount bracket but need to get a new new Sanden A/C compressor with 6 rib pulley to compleate the setup, I should only need to run one serpentine belt to drive all accesories and one idler/adjusting pulley. I will then pull it apart and reco the pump & alternator and fit the new 6 rib P/S pump pulley to match the rest.

It's got to be better than running 3 v belts they suck & draw much more power from the engine.

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[myss427]

Hi Axistr, I have the same box in mine, you can get a plate to remove the reverse shut out solinoid. Total a waste of time and makes the tunnel mods a bit easier. The box needs to sit high for then correct angle so a new tunnel will be required, not a big deal, most people use a VL Commodore top section ect. Also Mallwood sells a bullet for the speedo drive, that has the Ford drive gear with the standard powerglide, turbo 350 cable end. Found that it was good to also get the right angle speedo cable adapter, stops the cable bending excessive, also access was much better.

[axistr]

Thanks myss427, the next thing to mock up will be the transmission. I have got the engine to sit very low and with basic mesurments the output shaft of the tremec should sit very close to that of the original trimatic's output shaft. I was hoping to only do minor mods to the tunnel, and as you have suggested I will remove the lockout solonid to give me the extra clearance. I also have a speedo cable the same as my hatch with the Tremec TKO and was also hoping it will be a direct fit.

Thanks for the heads up.

Lenny.

[axistr]

G'day Harvey, the brand new box from Summit racing cost me $3,800 delivered air freight to my door plus the bellhousing which set me back $250 & clutch cost $385. Mall wood quoted me $10,000 for same plus freight. It just makes me think what Mall must pay for them being a Tremec dealer. Don't get me wrong everyone has to earn a living, but he is a bit over the top.

Lenny,

[axistr]

Due to local floods it gave me some time to do a bit more on the car, almost finished the serpentine belt system, trial fitted the gearbox, fitted the cooling fans & sorted the fuel pump and level sender.

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[axistr]

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[LHSL]

Nice. keep up the great work.
Phillip

[myss427]

What did you do to fit the gearbox, looks like you have not touched the tunnel? Mine sits way higher, did you lower the engine to get that angle?

[axistr]

G'Day myss427, I got the engine to sit low, the output shaft of the transmission sits 20mm lower than the standard trimatic so I still have a reasonable tailshaft angle. I will drop the pinion down a bit with adjustable top control arms which will make the front and rear working angles close to even. Going by my measurments I should have a 1/2 degree at the front uni and 3/4 rear uni static. I checked the original drive line angle with my angle indicator and come up with 2 1/2 front uni & 3 1/4 rear. (working angles)

I didn't cut the tunnel and the transmission shift housing (rear section) sits very high up in the hole cut out. The rear of the shift housing shift rail casting sits 10mm from the main tunnel floor stiffener cross section. The T56 Magnum box fits much better than you standard commodore or Ford versions. I wouldn't have been able to put one of those without cutting the tunnel. The Magnum gear shift leaver is in the same position as an ozzie 4 speed setup so the console can remain standard.

Lenny.

[myss427]

You have have saved a lot of work, looks great. With mine the sump is way to close to the steering rack so i had to lift it 10mm which meant cutting tunnel etc. Yes, love where the shifter comes out, perfect.

[axistr]

WOW LXSS350 they are good numbers, what angles did you end up with the drive shaft.

P.S One of the first items I got for her was the power steering rack. Got it very cheap.


Lenny.

[axistr]

At last I compleated the accesories drive system. I still have one drive pulley on the crank to run a little vortec compressor if I get bored with the engine power in the future.

Also finished the fuel tank pump assembly.


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