333 replies to this topic

[axistr]

Statler & Mort, the tacho only need two wires to operate, one to the negative side of the coil and the other wire direct to earth. First remove the dash cluster from the vehicle, then the two screws from the rear of the cluster housing and remove the tacho from the cluster housing assembly.

 

When you have the tacho removed you should be able to see the adjuster underneath the face plate which is marked with 2K on it, (see photo). Mine had some sort of varnish on the adjuster to stop it from moving after the factory setting.

 

Hook up the two wires temporally from the coil and earth to the terminals on the Torana tacho. Get a second tacho or simular device to read the correct engine R.P.M and check against the original Torana tacho indicated reading. If adjustment is required, get a good fitting screw driver to turn the pot adjuster marked with the 2K  which has a slot in it.( mine ended a bit rounded after forcing it to break the varnish seal as can be seen in the photo) I had to work the pot adjuster back & forward a few times to break the seal. Make sure the little leaver on the tacho is set to the correct engine configuration 4,6 or 8 cylinder. Increase the engine speed, I took it up to 2,500 R.P.M on my electronic scan tool and adjusted the original Torana tacho to read the same. My tacho reads 50 R.P.M out at idle (750) accurate from 1150-4,000 and is 190 R.P.M out at 5,000. The adjustment allowed for around + or - 1,000 R.P.M on my tacho. The engine is mostly operated between 1.400 & 3,500 R.P.M so I am happy enough with the way it reads and besides its a 39 year old unit that properly was not that accurate from new.

 

Hope that helps explain the adjustment procedure better. 

 

 

 

 

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[axistr]

Cars going great but to hot to take it for long drives this time of the year. The Mrs didn't want to go out in it either so it was motivation to finish off the air conditioner. I only had to make up all the gas lines to suit and fit the condenser. I also wired the system into the A/C module output and connected it to engine E.C.M which controls the cooling fan under 55kph and if I give it the slipper over 95% the compressor cuts out. Your got to love electronic when its so easy to do such simple tasks.

 

Gasses up great first time no leaks and it was a real relief when the compressor cut in and out knowing all the pressure switches and electronics worked.

 

Anyway I'm off for a cruise, to nice a day to stay at home and the torrie is so cold inside you could hang meat in there.

 

See you on the road.

 

Lenny   

 

Made up the liquid line from a straight piece of aluminium tube.

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[axistr]

Not talented Wayne, it was just a matter of being to bloody hot and I love my creature comforts.

[SmacT]

Thinking of adding A/C kits to your power steering inventory, Lenny? Nice work - as usual.

[lxsstorana]

OK.  I think it's official,  we hate and love you.       /////  

 

Who has power steering and air conditioning in a torana that works?

 

You do.

[axistr]

Sam, I would really need the car to do the A/C conversion to my satisfaction. So no I won't be doing kits for that reason.

 

Mick, I think I will take that as a compliment over jealously. Not sure. Ha Ha. If I don't make these old cars nice to drive with all the late model creature comforts they will just sit in the shed and not get used. That's why both Torana's are clones. Seams everyone gets upset when you modify an original A9X. However all my mods are easily removed and no one wouldn't know the difference.  If I have to wait for the perfect day to drive them then I would have to rule out 50% of the weekends for starters. And last of all its really hard to keep me out of this one on the weekends. I recon the perfect Torana would be the drive line from my beemer. It is just a wickedly great machine to drive.

 

 

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[lxsstorana]

It's definitely a compliment.  

 

Love your work and what you have done to your car.

 

Enjoy the Beemer during the week and keep the torana for the weekends and good times.   

[axistr]

I have had a bit of a look around on the site but I can't find a wiring diagram for the UC intermittent wiper control. Does anyone have a diagram that they can post up here.  

[Bigfella237]

G'day Lenny,

 

From this post: http://www.gmh-toran...am/#entry853599

 

 UC Wiring Diagram.pdf   237.21K   13 downloads

 

(I renamed it from "scan0001.pdf")

 

You're looking for:

 

55. Combination Switch
58. Wiper Motor
69. Dwell Control Switch
70. Dwell Control Unit

 

Which are located lower-left to lower-centre of the second page.

[axistr]

Thanks Bigfeller,

 

That's what I am after. Didn't want to hook the dwell control unit up incorrectly and damage it in any way. I have already converted the SLR to UC control stalk so it will be a simple task to wire it in tomorrow.

 

Thanks heaps

Lenny.

[axistr]

The SLR had to go back to the panel shop this week for a few minor rectification jobs with the paint. Got it back today in time to give it its first polish and wax. I don't know what products you guys use but I only use Auto Glym these day. The shine on both cars is just stunning. They both look better in the flesh but still look good in photos taken with the cheap phone. Very happy with the results.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[axistr]

Car's done 2,500 km now without any problems except when a put a full load of fuel on board and a bit extra weight in the boot the tyres hit the rear guards on a big bump. (Bugger) 

 

The shocks I had were a bit soft so I thought I might kill two birds with the one spanner and fit a pair of 4-way shocks. I used to do a bit of testing and development work for 4-way suspension back in the ninety's and thought I might give them a go under the rear of the SLR.

 

You first need to measure the neutral height of the rear suspension shocks and set the 4-way shocks to the same neutral length. As the car is sitting the springs do not have any load on them and when loaded they help to support some of the weight. I went for 90lbs springs, they aren't designed to constantly carry big loads but do the job I want well. The main benefit of 4-way shocks is reduction of body roll and reduced no dive under braking or acceleration compression due to the neutral spring position. Through the corners the pushing and pulling effect of the springs is so good I might even remove the rear sway bar. The dampening and rebound valving is quite stiff and not adjustable like the Koni fronts. Maybe it will loosen up when I do a few more kms.

 

Thanks bigfeller237 for the wiring diagram I finally got around to fitting up the intermittent wiper dwell. I have driven it for times in the rain and wish I had installed the unit earlier, so I suppose it wont rain again now that I have it in.  

 

      

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[SmacT]

Mmmm, never heard of them, but I am very interested in how they work. To google I go!

[axistr]

Liam, $260 pair.

 

Sam if the car and the suspension is at its neutral height the 4-way shock spring are not loaded and that's why its important to set the shocks up at this neutral height. During driving any changes to height either compression or rebound the shock springs try to return the suspension back to the original set neutral height. When going through corners the inside spring will try to pull the car down due to body roll and the outer side will try to push the car up just like the action of the sway bar. When you power on or brake the same action happens trying to either push the rear of the car up or down under braking and therefor reducing dive under brakes or dip under acceleration. They work exceptional well on vehicles that have sloppy suspension (Range Rovers) and caravans.

 

I used to be able to get a few choices when it come to valving but now a days the choices are a bit more limited in the valving department, but the shock springs pressure are still available 60, 90 &120lbs.    

[SmacT]

Cool, I understand. Shame about the lack of valving options, as it seems getting that right would be crucial given rebound and compression have so much influence. Can they be opened up? I am speaking to Terry Hay about the boingers on my 300 next week, I'll see what he knows about them.

[axistr]

No they aren't rebuild able type shocks Sam. The 4-way shocks are very good, but after driving the car with the old soft shocks you really notice how much stiffer the rear is. I am just spoiled after using adjustable shocks over the year being able to tune them to my preference. I am sure they will soften a fraction after a 1,000 km. But now that I can add a bit more weight in the boot I will have to take it for a decent drive and see how much difference it makes.     

[axistr]

The vacuum booster leak got worse so its time to rip it to pieces and throw in a few new bits.

I made up a bar to split the housings and bent the bar about two inches.(bloody tight) Not much to overhauling them only took about two hours.

The diaphragm had more cracks in it than a girls high school.

 

Thanks to dattoman for get the part numbers for me it was a great help.

 

Good as new.

 

 

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[LXCHEV]

Awesome thread, only took me a couple of years to stumble across it and read from start to finish.

Stunning car, and love all the mods. What a perfect cruiser Lenny, well done mate.

Appreciate all the detailed explanations, photos and how-to's... As I said already, awesome stuff!

[axistr]

Got the camera out again the other night to get some photo practice on the cars, they turned out better than expected. Might start taking up armature photography on cars then venture into porn photography.Hmmm

 

Bugger, all those years of studding gynaecology when I was younger and I ended up fixing cars for a living. 

 

 

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[SmacT]

Nice work mate. Try adding a little ISO to the image and you'll get more detail in the dark bits - but also more noise. Actually, the next step is to take them outside on a clear night, do the same thing (angle and all) and you'll get star trails in the sky and all sorts of weird colours in the sky if you shift your white balance to fluro. Even five minutes or so gives you trails. 60mins gives you better trails. :-) Also, try standing behind the car and light painting the ground beneath it.