333 replies to this topic

[axistr]

Yep your right but the photo's don't do it justice, It's quite hard to turn the water pump pulley with the belt on, and the water pump don't take much power to drive it. I was hoping to reduce drag by not adding an extra idler pulley but if I have any problems with pulley slip I will have to add one more idler, which would be quite easy compared with setting up all the other pulleys. Its a shame I couldn't go under but the water pump would pump in the wrong direction.

I have see some of March Performance small block Chev conversion serpentine kits and some have around the same contact area on their water pump pulleys. I suppose I will have to wait and see.

[axistr]

Got a bit more done this week, fitted and made the tank straps but need to fit the rubbers. Also made a cover plate for the fuel pump.


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[tsn007]

Nice work Len

is that a brown davis tank
will you be running a surge tank, or will the internal fuel pump be sufficient,

[axistr]

G'day Tony, The tank was custom made for me, I drew up some plans for him and made the adaptor to suit a holden VT commodore electric pump assemble, these pumps have a built in surge chamber. I have secured the original torana fuel level sender to the pump housing. This will keep every thing contained in the tank to save room and keep it nice and quiet,

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[LX2DR]

At last I compleated the accesories drive system.

I think you need to revisit the belt location over the water pump, with that little contact i think it will slip and cause major overheating issues.

Edited by LX2DR, 18 April 2012 - 09:52 PM.

[axistr]

Yep you might be right, but I carn't turn it by one hand and water pumps take bugger all to drive . With 6PK belts the grip is about tripple to that of the standard vee belt. The A/C pump will draw the most power then the power steering pump, the alternator will take around 5-8 hp. I recken the water pump will draw around 1/2 hp. That will increase at bit at 5,000 rpm. If it does slip I will just have to make an extra idler pulley. I was trying to keep tis area clutter free as I might fit a little belt driven vortech later when I get bored.

Lenny

[axistr]

Finnaly got my new tyres & rims. Now I can sort out my diff length, cut the guards and fit the flares. Rear's 17x10, tyres 275 40 but putting a tape measure across them they measure 285mm and still have good clearances. The biggest the engineer will allow is 17x10" rims.


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[LX 0076]

Nice wheels are these the new simmons from tempe? Do you mind me asking how much?

Thanks Jayson

[axistr]

LX Torry Freak, dont know mate if they are Wilsons as I bought them through Rare Spares.

Yes Jason they are new Simmons through Tempe Tyres. The total package, rims, tyres. centres & nuts cost me $3,810
One of the hardest decisions so far were the wheels. We were after Simmons OM17s which Neals Wheels had a set of reco rims but they wanted $4,800 plus tyres. So second choice were FR17s. They look much better in the flesh than in the photo.

Lenny.

[LX 0076]

Thanks Lenny, I have been contemplating a set of these in 17s or 18s for my hatch, the 17s look the goods and seem to be reasonable priced.

Jayson

[axistr]

Hi Jayson, I know a lot of people want the largest rims they can get under their cars, but check with the people doing the regestration paperwork. I asked two engineers about the rims sizes and both said 17x10 rear & 17x8 front MAX, both a also commented ont the load ratings, My Simmons have a rating of over 700kg each. I have even off set/back space front & rear. If you go wide rim and small backspace they may also knock it due to the diff and wheel bearing size. I have an R.T.A rego licence and if they inspect my car and find out I did the pink slip I will go for a row. So like my hatch I want to make sure everything is 100 % legal.

Hope this helps

Lenny.

[axistr]

Haven't had much time to do anything over the last three weeks as we have had three mechanics, sick, at TAFE or on holidays, so I have had to go back doing five day weeks again, so much for semi retirement.

On a good note I got the front guards cut and diff finished (3.9-1 L.S.D) just got to finish the disc brakes and then I can put it in and do the rear doors & guards cut.

All so managed to finish a power steering rack for my self before there all gone.

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[Stinga]

love the wheel choice, they will make the car.. not that it wasnt already going to be great!

[axistr]

No worries Dirtbag I will donate a power steering rack after your contribution. LOL

[axistr]

Finished all the power steering rack kits, so now it back onto the torrie.

Cut the rear guards today, I hate when the rear guards are cut on the 4 door torries, when you open up the rear doors there is a thin edge exposed on the dog leg..

I cut out the guards and left the lower lip intact, then folded up the lip and welded it back in. I had the cut out sections left over from the front guard cutouts and fitted and welded it into the dog leg. The photo doesn't show it very well but I will take some more picks when its all welded in and finished. When you look up from under side or open the door it looks much neater and the rear passengers won't take any skin off getting in.

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[axistr]

Got around to finishing the diff installation today. I have seen a few posts regarding fitting up the park brake cables to commodore rear disc setup which didn't impress me. I had drum brake set up on the old standard bango diff so I cut off the balls from the original torana park brake cables. Then cut off the two cable ends from the commodore cable and drilled out the old cable wire. I then silver solderd them onto the original torana cable ends and fitted the cabled as per standard holder bracket on the commodore brackets and original torana keepers at the mount next to the control are mounts as standard.

To easy, it looks 100% factory made. And also works and is as strong as factory made.

Just remember you have to use silver solder no wiring solder

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[ls2lxhatch]

Your brakes appear to be upside down, I thought the Commodore brakes usually have the handbrake lever at the bottom.

How is the clearance between the caliper and the shock?

[axistr]

G'day Andy, the backing plate levers are in the same position as per factory. My diff is 15mm wider per side than the standard torana diff for two reasons. It gives me better tyre to flare clearance with 5" offset and 15mm more clearance from the lower shock mounts. When the rear pads have worn down I will still have around 10mm clearance or better. Sorry the photos don't show it better. Might have to take some more shots if anyone needs better explaination.

[ls2lxhatch]

I thought the handbrake lever was normally at the bottom.