333 replies to this topic

[axistr]

Good idea Rockon with the aerial, The new black painted sections on the torrie are clear over base black metallic, so there is no painted lip line felt, and the yellow is a plain non metallic clear on base. I thought trying to get it all to match  in now might be harder than it sounds. knowing my luck you would be able to tell the difference. I am now leaning towards a power guard mount jobbie. But I still like the look of the centre rood aerial, may be it's me still stuck in the seventy's like the car, but as mentioned above I also find they are a bit of a pain with the cover going on and off. Thanks for the feedback guys.  

[a9x868]

Thanks for the feedback guys, all good points. I wouldn't mind having it in the rear glass or hidden to, no aerial at all, but it still leaves me with the original problem with the hole already in the front guard.

sorry lenny
must have misread your post
and just looking your pics i now clearly see the hole!
go for the electric guard antenna
big no to the roof aerial imho!

[axistr]

It's settled then, it seams more would prefer guard mount then centre mount, so I will go with the majority and grab a power aerial.  Off to the shed I go to fit the roof lining, the decision was holding me up on fitting it.  

[axistr]

started the assemble of the interior so I can get all the glass in.

 

Made some adaptors up on the lathe for the head rests, fitted the parcel shelf & speakers so I can fit the rear glass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Attached Files

•  IMG_20140624_152848_223.jpg   94.52K   9 downloads
•  IMG_20140621_101650_832.jpg   85.78K   8 downloads
•  IMG_20140624_153523_966.jpg   69.01K   9 downloads
•  IMG_20140624_152925_817.jpg   61.11K   8 downloads

[SmacT]

Going together like only a well-planned car can, Lenny. Excellent.

[axistr]

Finally have all the glass in, so its time to start overhauling the front end.

 

I have gone for UC top control arms so I can achieve better caster & camber angles with the power steering.

 

Front end assembled and power steering fitted, the bushes were all ok as far as movement but the bushes were all original and the rubbers were showing signs of cracking so new rubber bushes fitted. No crap plastic bushes the real stuff (Rubber) bushes was fitted.

 

I get asked quite a bit about the rear mounted front sway bars wont fit on members cars. The sway bar shown here was originally straight, I bent and contoured it to clear the bell housing and added a new coat of paint. no magic here just used the press and cold bent it to shape.

 

Even the original UC rag joint cover fitted but will have to see if the exhaust still clears with the engine in.

 

Front brakes next.

 

 

  

 

 

Attached Files

•  IMG_20140713_105739_829.jpg   231.29K   15 downloads
•  IMG_20140713_105821_698.jpg   190.21K   15 downloads
•  IMG_20140704_113826_768.jpg   216.34K   12 downloads
•  IMG_20140704_122029_289.jpg   244.16K   12 downloads

[76lxhatch]

That's a good idea with the bar, I was planning on seeing how much of a recess I could put in the inspection cover without encroaching on the converter space

[N/A-PWR]

A Nice and comfy Ride you are Creating Lenny,

 

Who would of ever thought you could put a Sway-bar in the Press and reshape it, another Job well done.

 

 

 

Radial Tuned Suspension has gone to a New level.

[axistr]

Thanks Guys, Its very easy to do and I only used around 3 tonnes to bend it over the short distance.

 

Went to get some more parts last week for the Torrie and noticed they had chassis plugs in the display cabinet for $120 a set. "ouch" So I decided to buy a 60mm aluminium bar and make some myself. I also machined out the lower section for an O-ring grove to make sure they don't rattle or fall out. Don't know weather to polish or paint them chrome yellow yet to match the rails. Total cost $30 for the aluminium bar, and one hour of my time. Saved $90 plus it more fun making thing yourself that fit perfect.

 

 

Attached Files

•  IMG_20140714_133731_239.jpg   220.16K   12 downloads
•  IMG_20140714_141458_846.jpg   221.37K   14 downloads
•  IMG_20140714_141549_869.jpg   145.2K   12 downloads
•  IMG_20140714_135230_378.jpg   178.4K   10 downloads

[axistr]

Its been a busy week and got a few things done on the SLR. The next thing I need to get sorted are the front brakes. I didn't bother redrilling the rear axles as it was from a commodore with rear discs. So I thought I will just run commodore disc on the front  including the master cylinder and keep the whole system commodore except for the Torana brake peddle. I had some VB commodore front rotors and a pair of old Girlock alloy callipers up stairs. I started to grind away at the calliper bracket to clearance the tie rod ends and the bracket is starting to get very thin. I will need to take off around 3.5mm from the outside diameter of disc rotor, No biggie have the lathe. But not real happy about taking so much metal off every thing. I think these callipers are off a WB or VB-VH I am not sure, dattoman maybe able to enlighten me here. Then I would need to set the calliper up in the mill and drill & tap a hole at the back for the brake hose as these callipers have the inlet hole facing the engine, then I would need to plug the original holes. 

 

I seam to remember that these callipers had a reasonable amount of flex back in the day and a bit of a spongy peddle. I was wondering who has done what for front brakes. My be I should look at a different system. I would like to keep the callipers in the original position, and don't really need big expensive brakes on the front, car only weighs 1250kg, and don't want to go to HQ stubs, already have the right ride height with the new springs.  And I defiantly don't want to cut out control arms or K-frame for clearance. With power steering I get around 2 1/2 degrease better turning circle so any system must have a reasonable amount to clearance or I mite as well stick with the standard brakes and redrill to suit the commodore wheel stud paten.

 

I am open for suggestions and alternatives.

 

Thank in advance Lenny.               

Attached Files

•  IMG_20140714_141626_027.jpg   215.82K   10 downloads
•  IMG_20140714_141607_561.jpg   180.26K   13 downloads
•  IMG_20140714_141617_257.jpg   182.51K   10 downloads

[myss427]

Would Harrop steering arms upset the steering geometry too much? Would lower the tie-rod a bit...

[N/A-PWR]

and Very nicely made plugs Lenny,

 

is the groove for a cir-clip?

[axistr]

Dave, groove is for a rubber O-ring so they push into the rail firm and won't rattle or fall out.

 

myss427  I am Running UC arms to insure all the steering geometry is ok and the UC arms are in-between the LH & A9X in height and length scale. I can make it all fit and have decent clearances but I suppose I'm a bit fussy and like every thing spot on. Being a perfectionist really pisses me off sometimes. Just looking at alternatives.    

[76lxhatch]

Commodore calipers have a different bolt spacing and won't match up at all, they will be either WB (if metric fittings) or late HZ (if imperial). Nothing wrong those calipers if you ask me, the earlier two piece PBR ones are known to flex and are the ones to stay away from. Normally would have A9X steering arms simply for the clearance to the tie rod end but looks like you may just make it work without removing too much?

Are the Commodore rotors as thick as HQ-WB, guessing they must be close?

[axistr]

Thanks lx76hatch, rotors are around 22mm thick. They have stamped on them 20mm min thickness. I think you might be right I may have removed them from a HZ-WB not 100% sure. I thought it was only the commodores that had the inlet port facing in towards the engine. As I said I can make them fit, just getting a bit thin. But when I had a good look and study it a bit more I noticed the amount of aluminium around the slides mounts areas, I think I still have around 8x the amount of steel where I was grinding metal from which made me feel a bit better. Sill a bit more buggering around yet to get it right if I use them.    

[76lxhatch]

rotors are around 22mm thick. They have stamped on them 20mm min thickness.

They are a bit thinner then; HQ-WB are 25.4mm new and 24.5mm minimum if I remember correctly. I imagine they would be OK as long as the pads don't get too low?

Calipers are definitely not (unmodified) Commodore, I think hatch76 may be on the money with the WB ones having the fitting in a different spot to HZ, that rings a bell. Definitely not HJ. You could always swap the bleeder and supply line, makes it more of a pain to bleed them but hopefully not a regular occurrence.

[Mort]

Very nice Lenny.

 

I noticed you have a bolt and nyloc nut in the bottom hole of the rag joint, is it ok to use them or is it just a temp fix.

[axistr]

G'day Mort,

 

You have good eyes its hard to pick in the photo.

 

The bolts & nyloc nuts go through the rag joint with a small crush spacer so there is only partial crush on the rag joint. The extra length of the bolts allows for contact with the safety plate in the event that the rag joint collapses. as per original Holden design. The bolts are 8.8 grade.    

[Mort]

Thanks for that Lenny, actually the one i was referring too was the bolt replacing the cotter pin, but it is good to know about the other two.

[ls2lxhatch]

The bolt and nylock are on the Subaru rack end of the rag joint. This end is a splined joint the Lenny had made to adapt the Subaru steering shaft to the Torana rag coupler.

 

The joint in the pictures below is using a SuperPro kit which includes the special bolts to replace the original rivets and a urethane coupler disc that should be thrown in the bin before it melts from exhaust heat and you loose steering.

 

 

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 17 July 2014 - 12:44 PM.

[Mort]

Ok thanks for that ls2.