37 replies to this topic

[hanra]

Now that I have the nose cone off my car, Ive noticed a few funny things. The lower support bar that runs across the lower part of the rad support panel looks to have been replaced at some stage... I think these were prone to rust?

I have found that the inner wheel arch splash guards were tack welded at there front edge to the back side of that support bar.

From what I can tell in the GM manual, these splash guards should be bolted up in 4 places. 3 along the chassis rail and one bolt at the front edge???

Also the lower bottom edge of the nose cone should be bolted up to this lower radiator support bar. Mine had no bolts.... There are no holes...

If anyone currently has there nose cone off, could I please ask for some pics of the under side of the lower radiator support bar, incl the areas where the splash guard mounts and where the bottom of the nose cone mounts.

[dattoman]

Mines off... pics in my build thread for sedan

[Statler]

Have a look at the Rareys replacement.

[hanra]

Thanks for that. Does this look right...? If so Im up shits creek....

[Statler]

That looks right

[hanra]

Fug it... Out comes the cut off wheel....

Edited by hanra, 29 January 2012 - 11:17 AM.

[hanra]

None of the back side mounting points are there for the lower part of the nose cone and splash guards. I guess The best option would be to try and weld mounting points on but will be trial and error with nose cone on/off getting them in the right spot.

[dattoman]

[hanra]

Thanks dattoman. Got a spare drivers side horn for sale????????


Does the ends of that rad support bar have those kicked up edges at the ends for a reason??

Edited by hanra, 29 January 2012 - 06:19 PM.

[dattoman]

I can go take closer pics

And if you need a horn I'm sure I can part with one...I'll just put aftermarket ones on the car
Its only a track hack... doesn't need to stay original

So what do you want pics of ?
I can tell you it looks like mines been repaired before
I also have the nose off the hatch I can take pics of that too

[Statler]

The 'kicked up ends' are so the nosecone fits flush.

[hanra]

Your a BLOODY LEGEND MATE!!!!

Well judging by that rare spares panel, it seems I'm missing all the mounting points across the back edge of the panel.... Where I guess the splash guards mount and also where the lower nose cone mounts.

I seem to have the forward mounting points welded on however. But I did notice the holes didn't line up when the nose cone was on.

I'll try and get some pics of my set up tonight.

I'll PM you about that horn!!

The 'kicked up ends' are so the nosecone fits flush.

Interesting.... Yeah mine dosnt have that... It's just a bar across...

Edited by hanra, 29 January 2012 - 06:35 PM.

[Tyre biter]

Just something to be aware of - perhaps you've already considered it.

My car too had the lower radiator support panel replaced during it's past - a seemingly home made job that was a pretty good effort IMO. This had also rusted out by the time that care came to me, and so I got one of the RSP replacement parts - all looked good for a walk-up start; simply cut the home made jobbie out and weld in the RSP unit in.

This was fine until it came time to fit both the nose cone and the vertical brace for the bonnet latch - everything was a tad too high from the bottom up - luckily this could be remedied.

So what I am saying is, if you replace the lower support panel, be sure to check and double check the correct placement/gap between the upper and lower radiator support panels. There is a thread on this subject including the correct measurement between the upper and lower panels but for the life of me I can't seem to dig it up sorry.

Cheers, TB

Edited by Tyre biter, 29 January 2012 - 08:11 PM.

[its Paul]

This is what I did to mine Brad, as the rares ones were nothing like what I removed





The lower support panel was unpicked





I was lucky the radiator support was in good nic, but the lower radiator support needed replacing as you can see above.

The lower tags (holes) stayed on the radiator support when the lower section was removed.

Cheers.

[hanra]

You wait till I show u pics of the barn job I've got on mine....

Do you have any pics of what the rear side lower mounting points for the splash guard and lower part of the nose cone look like???

Edited by hanra, 29 January 2012 - 08:28 PM.

[its Paul]

Hope this helps.













Cheers.

[dattoman]

I bought mine off Paul... so hopefully he's right !!

[its Paul]

I hope so to Neil, that was a while ago, must be near time to fit it ;-)

[hanra]

Awesome mate. That's a great help!!!

So I'm correct in thinking that those screws in the brake ducts go up through the front spoiler, through the nose cone, through the splash guard and then it mounts to the lower rad support bar? Using those threaded clips that are used to mount the guards onto the body?


How did u manage to get those screws in the brake ducts done up to???????

Edited by hanra, 29 January 2012 - 10:20 PM.

[hanra]

Heres my agricultural set up......... I think my only option is to remove this and fit the RSP bar in.....

[dattoman]

Looks great

Don't cut anything till you compare some other genuine non repaired cars
That Rares one allegedly doesn't fit too well and needs mods
However.... alot of cars are damaged and previously repaired so that can go a long way to explaining that

[hanra]

I was thinking it would be easiest to just weld on some mounting points on the lower rear edge pointing back towards the firewall, so that the lower nose cone and splash guards and air dam could mount to it. But Im concerned that this piece does not have the kicked up ends... and that may cause fitment issues with the nose cone??????

I guess trial and error? Suck it and see....

[Heath]

This doesn't have the kicked up ends because it isn't as deep as the original box section. It may not need it at all, particularly if it has been cut a bit shorter overall than the original section.

I don't understand why you would cut it up. Just make sure everything you wanna mount has a tab to mount onto, put it together and drive it!

[Statler]

I'm with Heath on this one.

It's easier to simply weld on a couple of tabs rather than replace the whole thing [which is hidden anyway].