Group C Opel Monza build by Dirtbag
#76 _ladz_
Posted 15 March 2012 - 06:20 PM
#77 _nicko61_
Posted 16 March 2012 - 11:34 AM
#78 _dirtbag_
Posted 05 April 2012 - 01:36 AM
These were taken the last time the owner stopped in.
OK, so we weren't 100% sure whether the commodore front end would bolt into the Opel or need modifying, so I took the front end out to check.
Before I tried the commodore front end I thought I'd strip all the stuff out of the engine bay, as that's always a pain in the ass to do : )
Luckily for me the commodore set up was just nuts and bolts. No mods needed.
While the front end was out, I checked out the chassis rails and radiator support. Not great.
Plus around where the strut towers are joined was rusted through as well as where the inner guards come down to meet the chassis rail. The best way I could think of to fix this was to.....
When I wheeled the front cut of the VH commodore into the shed I noticed a couple of wasps. I had a look under the dash and there was about a hundred of the rotten things. I taped some paper to a pole and set it on fire then waved it under the nest so all their wings burnt off and they fall to the ground, ready to be squashed. Scary moment!
Here's the nest that was under the dash.
So I then chopped the front off the front cut.
And yes, before you ask there were millions of measurements taken before, during and after this job.
One thing I noticed was the commodore has an extra piece of bracing that the monza doesn't have, so I'm going to add it into the monza. Can't hurt right : )
See if you can spot the extra piece : )
This shot amuses me for some reason : )
I then used a rivet gun and some bog to join the new front : )
By replacing this section I not only removed most of the rust, but all the little things I'd have had to modify to fit the front stone tray, headlights and grill are now not necessary, and we all know it's the little jobs that take all the time.
Fits perfectly.
It's so good to be able to just mount the lights and grill without having to modify anything.
The owner wants the engine bay smoothed out, so I did the easiest bit first by knocking the indent out of the drivers side inner guard. I'll get the engine bay sand blasted before I do the real work in here.
It doesn't matter that the stone tray on the new front is stuffed as the owner has supplied a new one. I just need to sourse some front bumper mounts now so I can start on mounting the new front bumper/spoiler.
I attacked what was left of the commodore front cut with the plasma cutter to get the A pillars and chassis sections out to use for rust repairs if needed. I also cut out the panel in front of the windscreen as the commodore one is different to the opel.
Then I sliced up what was left.
You can see the difference here.
So that's it for now.
#79 _j.e.d._
Posted 05 April 2012 - 04:52 AM
#80
Posted 05 April 2012 - 07:59 AM
#81
Posted 05 April 2012 - 08:29 AM
I dont know that I would have chopped the front off to do what you have done.
However, its looking great!!!
cheers
Glenn
#82
Posted 05 April 2012 - 08:54 AM
#83 _dirtbag_
Posted 05 April 2012 - 12:11 PM
As for rego, no worries. Why wouldn't it get rego? You'd be hard pressed to find any panel shop that doesn't do this kind of repair on a regular basis. My inspector has no problems with it as he says it's only ever going to be a set back if the car getting repaired has been lodged on the written off register.
Hi Glenn. Yes it's a bit daunting to cut the front off a car, but the time it would have taken to rebuild the strut towers, lower radiator support, both rails where the crossmember bolts on, the seam where the inner guard meets the chassis and then modify the front to the stone tray and lights etc fit properly would have been three times what it took to do this, so to me it was the right move. Also, it's kind of fun being this destructive : )
#84
Posted 05 April 2012 - 12:27 PM
I just suck at the putting it back together bit! haha.
you are definitely a talented bloke.
If only you lived closer! I have a mate about to find someone to do suicide doors, tubs etc on his LH, plus I have a few cars waiting that could use a dirtbag touch!
#85
Posted 05 April 2012 - 12:27 PM
#86
Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:06 PM
I must admit, I do learn a lot just looking at the way you go about things and your very descriptive explanations!
cheers
Glenn
#87
Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:19 PM
Jase, no there's no extra bracing as the chassis is just a U section with a lid spot welded on, so getting good access to the entire outer section is really easy to get a good weld. I left a 2mm gap so penetration is fine, plus it's welded down the inside and outside of the inner guards.
As for rego, no worries. Why wouldn't it get rego?
That for a start, but if your engineer gets away with it then good for you.
I for one will be having a close look at any monza I intend buying in the future.
#88
Posted 05 April 2012 - 04:11 PM
#89
Posted 05 April 2012 - 05:23 PM
That for a start, but if your engineer gets away with it then good for you.
I for one will be having a close look at any monza I intend buying in the future.
well... its going to be pretty bloody stand out havign a VH front end and all... so no need to check every monza.....
I think after seeing Tim's previous work, we can all be assured that he does not cut corners or put out "unsafe" creations...
It is, afterall, his profession and business, not just a hobby like 90% of us
#90
Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:11 PM
#91
Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:14 PM
Without a staggered join,and perhaps an internal or external fish plate,I reckon its a weak point,especially directly behind the front crossmember.
Time will tell,I spose.
#92
Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:23 PM
FWIW that is my professional opinion.
#93
Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:25 PM
The Monza is looking great! Not sure what steering column you'll be using, mine has Commodore. You will need to relieve the bottom of the opening for the steering column to give clearance for the rack. If you look at the Commodore firewall it is quite different in this area. You may well already be aware of this, but would have hated to see you not notice this while you have everything pulled apart & before paint. I look forward to its progress.
It would be nice to keep the original coloum... as it would be to ultilise the tilt while getting into a bucket seat, or i could just lose some weight.
#94 _mick74lh_
Posted 05 April 2012 - 06:49 PM
#95 _j.e.d._
Posted 06 April 2012 - 05:18 AM
That's cool mate...I think it looks top notch & well thought out, & I apologize for opening a can of worms with the question (even though that probably woulda happened anyways!)...you're the professional doing the job here so you know what needs to be done without cutting any corners - everyone else will just have an opinion about it I guess..Jase, no there's no extra bracing as the chassis is just a U section with a lid spot welded on, so getting good access to the entire outer section is really easy to get a good weld. I left a 2mm gap so penetration is fine, plus it's welded down the inside and outside of the inner guards.
I could understand that the chassis rail on its own could be weak at the join if that was all there was, but as you say the welds up the inner guards all add to the structural integrity of the join as a whole..
I think all your work is very informative, whether it be Torana related or not, & can't wait for the next update - especially when those flares go on!
#96 _cruiza_
Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:38 AM
#97
Posted 06 April 2012 - 04:14 PM
I loved that car........ oh well the Mrs will be happy the 1/2 car is no longer with us.
#98 _L32M20_
Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:49 PM
Edited by L32M20, 06 April 2012 - 06:49 PM.
#99 _L32M20_
Posted 06 April 2012 - 06:54 PM
#100
Posted 06 April 2012 - 07:16 PM
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