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Flat boot floor in LH/LX

Started by _sammj77_ , Feb 24 2012 03:13 PM

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10 replies to this topic

#1 _sammj77_

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 03:13 PM

Hi guys and gils

I was reading through a "Holden Horsepower" issue 3 and there in mention of a flat boot floor being used in one of the Toranas. I beleave this was done to allow for easier 9" diff, exhaust and drop tank fitment i.e no spare wheel bulge. It was a show car so i guess the flat boot would look better also.

Is this common practice? The bottom of the spare wheel bulge in my LH is a little rusty and I was considering this as an option. Was thinking I could lay the spare flat and reposition the holder for that. Also the top of the drop tank could then be flat.

Any problems with doing it and does someone have any pics of it in progress.

Edited by sammj77, 24 February 2012 - 03:13 PM.

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#2 Statler

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 09:33 PM

Mine is flat.

I'm hoping the use the recess in the droptank to mount the surgetank & fuel pump.

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#3 _LXSS350_

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Posted 24 February 2012 - 10:51 PM

take a look at my427

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#4 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 01:59 AM

I had originally cut the drop area out to flatten it, then ended up going the other direction and slightly raising it to give more clearance for the fuel pump/filter setup.

Here is underneath...(don't seem to have a picture handy showing it from inside the hatch area side.)

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#5 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 02:39 AM

I think the spare wheel well would add a fair amount of strength to the floor.

The UC hatch does not have the spare wheel hump in the middle of the floor. The bracing between the wheel arches in the UC hatch is considerably stronger than the LX hatch bracing. Just about everything else in the UC is made lighter than the LX.

LX hatch
Posted Image

UC Hatch

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 25 February 2012 - 02:40 AM.

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#6 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 03:17 AM

When I was going to originally just make my floor flat, I was thinking of just bead rolling some flat sheet to help keep it from tin canning, or bowing as easy.

The box I ended up building it made from thicker material than the rest of the floor and is welded all the way around and seems to stiffen the floor pretty well actually.

(and after covering the floor and hump with sound mat, the fuel pump noise is barely noticable inside the car at all.)

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#7 _Viper_

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:35 AM

Yep mine has a flat boot also, They have just unstiched the original floor then welded in a flat plate. For the size of it im surprised it doesnt oil can but If I was doing it Id add some beads.

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#8 Statler

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Posted 25 February 2012 - 11:45 AM

Woops!... i lied.

Mine is flat [ no spare wheel recess], but has ribs pressed in to maintain strength.

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#9 WA1TNC

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Name:Nig
Location:Cranbourne
Car:HX ute(daily) LH Torana(Harrop Blown LS1) in the build
Joined: 06-October 09

Posted 14 March 2013 - 09:52 PM

Old thread I know....

- but how hard is it to cut the original floor out of a LH torana? Do you just drill out the spot welds & simply cut a new piece to fit or is it a massive headache?

I want to cut mine out while I'm tubbing it(already cut the std wheel tubs out) & use the fuel tank out of a VY ute because I'm going injected....plus I just so happen to have the tank already collecting dust.

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#10 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 08:07 PM

I just started on the same thing a couple of days ago. Just remove the fuel tank before removing any spot welds. There are two lines of welds down each side, one line under the tail lights and one line where the beaver meets the boot floor. I removed mine by buzzing a 4" grinder over the welds. I get a good finish and drive the neighbours dogs crazy. Win, win!

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#11 TerrA LX

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 10:18 PM

It's mainly the ribs in the panel that give strength to the thin gauge steel used, that theory is continued thru the whole car as it is a mono chassis, meaning the whole body forms the chassis.

if you go flat you may want to go thicker, say 1.2mm or 1.6mm to retain the strength.