65 replies to this topic

[kiwi-lilj]

Hi,

Here is the picture of the bracket I made, I used a VK commy with tourqe master box clutch cable, I modified the bit that pivots off the pedal and trimmed the original rubber thing that goes through the firewall to fit the new cable.

Don't do what I did when fabbing it up though, arc a hole in your brake line and have a little green fire in your engine bay.

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[ribz0]

Thanks heaps kiwi!! The pics are great and I can see what you mean... great idea!!

Did you look at any other cables to see if there was a better fit? I have a commodore and a HZ which I will play with when I get back to see what fits better.... not sure if there is a difference but will find out soon enough...

Thanks again!!

[kiwi-lilj]

Hi

I did not try any other cables, I just went for the one that the box came out of. Mine is slightly to long. I got my cable from these guys in welshpool http://www.fdrive.com.au/index.php , they can do custom cables etc and had very good service.

Last time I was in Mel's in cannington I noticed they had dozens of cables hanging on a rack you could have a browse and see if there is anything slightly more suitable.

I like the idea of having a common standard cable just incase it ever broke, then it is easier to find a replacement.

Blair

[ribz0]

Hi all.. well, I got it together...

I did learn that a blue and red motor clutch are not the same!! see, learn something new every day!! Flywheel size is different or mountind holes are wider...

I ended up using a HZ cable... the reason was that there is more outer cable which means a smaller gap between firewall and clutch pedal..





I also used the 4 cylinder clutch pedal and cabel clevise thing which matched up great!!





Where I drilled the hole in the firewall was double metal so I thought was stroge enough.... no flex when I push the pedal down..

I also made a clutch pedal adjuster so it keeps the pedal the same level as the brake.... sorry, shitty pic..






Just a standard old PBR clutch kit with this thrust bearing..



Just a few small things to finish off but all good.. I can get the carpet in now... new seat trims are on order so get them re-done next time home... Clutch is nice and light and all works good, well, still on stands but all seems good...

Cheers..

[debkar]

Hi Eric,

Looks good, what was the other cable you had in the first pic, was that the WB?

Bolt pattern on blue pressure plate is larger, 9.12inch pressure plate compared to red at 8.60 inch which did you end up with?

Regards Simon

Edited by debkar, 20 March 2012 - 10:19 AM.

[ribz0]

Hi Simon..

The top cable is a HZ and the bottom is VB/C commodore. The HZ one is longer by about 40 mm (The inner) but there is also more outer cable which works because there is less travel... I used the HZ pull type as there were a push cable as well..

Yep, i got a WB clutch first but was too big... I ended up with LJ/HQ PBR kit...

Cheers...

Eric

[debkar]

Hi Eric,

Looks good, you made a great job of the conversion, I was going to do the same on a LC, but I only have a VB cable, so I'll grab a HZ one as your set up looks really good,

That's a HZ pull 6cyl cable?

Regards Simon

[ribz0]

Thanks for that mate!!

Yes, a HZ 6 cyl pull type... I got mine from Rare Spares in the mail..

The commodore one will work but you will need to space it out from the firewall similar to what Blair did with his...

Eric

[debkar]

Many thanks Eric, I'll grab one,looks very neat





92017394


CABLE CLUTCH HZ WB 6 CYLINDER PULL TYPE

Edited by debkar, 20 March 2012 - 06:29 PM.

[ribz0]

No worries....

I got a boot today to keep the muck and some noise out..



I'm a bit worried about the vibration joiner thing on the stick... looks like a repair was done in the past but I hope the console boot does not get stuck on it or is too tight once I fit the console.......

Ill soon see when I get the carpet in...

[ribz0]

Thanks to all who have helped along the way, the best thing about being on this site... there are so many gurus!!!

Oh, and thanks for pinning this thread moderator!!

[debkar]

Good progress, you using the standard type console? Guessing so by the screw holes in the floor?

[ribz0]

Yes mate.. I hope to use my auto one with a bit more cut out... I have bought a boot so that should bolt through..



I'll work on that next time home...

Cheers

[ribz0]

Just another bit of info..

The good book says there are different ways to mount the crossmember between auto and manual...



Always worth a read!!

[gad05]

Hi Eric ,
Just reading you're cable conversion thread great read,did you fit the over centre spring on the clutch pedal?
Cheers Graham.

[ribz0]

Hi there Graham.. cheers for that...

 

No mate.... I didn't have one so tried without and all works ok.... I made a small stop for the clutch peddle so it would line up with the brake peddle and not look uneven...

 

Cheers

[S pack]

Hi there Graham.. cheers for that...

 

No mate.... I didn't have one so tried without and all works ok.... I made a small stop for the clutch peddle so it would line up with the brake peddle and not look uneven...

 

Cheers

You don't need or want the over centre spring with the cable clutch conversion.

[gad05]

Just have another question Eric.
Do you need a return spring on the clutch fork?
Cheers Graham .

[ribz0]

Hi mate...

 

No... no spring on the clutch fork or the pedal... I just had to make a small stop on the clutch pedal so I could adjust the clutch pedal so that both pedals align up together... nothing worse that one up and one down... I'll get a few pics for you...

 

Cheers

[gad05]

Thanks Eric,more pics would be great.Do you have some of the clutch stopper setup.
Cheers Graham .

[StephenSLR]

Thanks kiwi.. can you put a pic up of that? 

 

I had my cable break through my firewall on the Mustang, first the cracks were welded

 

 

 

then reinforced.

 

 

 

 

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 13 December 2013 - 10:32 AM.

[StephenSLR]

no flex when I push the pedal down..

 

Just make sure your cable isn't anywhere near the exhaust.

 

What can happen is the cable heats up then binds, you'll notice your pedal get heavier before it either snaps or tears a hole in the firewall. - as happened with mine.

 

After I had my wall reinforced the panel beater then tells me the cable runs too close to the exhaust and recommends I go hydraulic if I don't want it snapping .... I wish he told me that before spending hours reinforcing the wall.  

 

Anyway, the car is now with a mechanic and we're looking into a Mal Wood hydraulic setup.

 

s

[StephenSLR]

I converted my m21 to hydraulic. Took me about an hour. I just used a Quarter Master hydraulic release bearing and set the shims. Id trust it over cable any day

 

In the Torrie I have the CRS/Dellow type but in the Mustang I just had the Quarter Master hydraulic throw out bearing installed.

 

http://www.gmh-toran...e-3#entry817244

 

s