Got home and had a look and both the lower control arm bushes at the diff end had split and fallen apart.
These are only about 6 months old.
Edited by Viper, 05 March 2012 - 08:40 PM.
What are some causes of suspension bush failure?
Started by
_Viper_
, Mar 05 2012 08:39 PM
12 replies to this topic
#1
_Viper_
_Viper_
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Posted 05 March 2012 - 08:39 PM
Hey guys, Took my Gemini to Motorvation and gave it a real good thrashing, I had not driven it since then until today and noticed the rear end felt squirmy.
Got home and had a look and both the lower control arm bushes at the diff end had split and fallen apart.
These are only about 6 months old.
Got home and had a look and both the lower control arm bushes at the diff end had split and fallen apart.
These are only about 6 months old.
#2
hanra
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Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:03 PM
Nolafail strikes again!!! hahahaha
#3
S pack
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Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:45 PM
Nolafail strikes again!!! hahahaha
+1
Go Superpro!
#4
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:43 PM
super pro...they the bluey/green ones?
the're not much better.....
i'll get pics of mine soon....
the're not much better.....
i'll get pics of mine soon....
#5
_glenn l_
_glenn l_
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Posted 06 March 2012 - 07:16 AM
superpro are a dark blue, noltec are a light blue/green.
#6
_Viper_
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Posted 06 March 2012 - 08:22 AM
My lower control arm Noltec bush on the Torana crumbled... Car had not even been driven since fitting!
#7
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 06 March 2012 - 10:37 AM
It would give the SuperPro a go.
However it may be that there is more rotational movement at the joint than a bush can handle. You may need to use a rod end/heim joint/rose joint instead. Try assembling without the bush then with the diff at ride height raise one wheel and lower to other to simulate cornering and see how much twist there is at the bush.
The typical pressed steel tailing arms can twist a bit to reduce the stress on a bush, tubular arms usually have no give at all. The bush you have is a small diameter which further reduces the amount of twist it can handle.
However it may be that there is more rotational movement at the joint than a bush can handle. You may need to use a rod end/heim joint/rose joint instead. Try assembling without the bush then with the diff at ride height raise one wheel and lower to other to simulate cornering and see how much twist there is at the bush.
The typical pressed steel tailing arms can twist a bit to reduce the stress on a bush, tubular arms usually have no give at all. The bush you have is a small diameter which further reduces the amount of twist it can handle.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 06 March 2012 - 10:45 AM.
#8
_Quagmire_
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Posted 06 March 2012 - 08:02 PM
same here...bad batch maybe.....My lower control arm Noltec bush on the Torana crumbled... Car had not even been driven since fitting!
needless to say i will not buy them ever ....these where on the car when i brought it
#10
Potta
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Posted 07 March 2012 - 04:03 PM
Have you tried rubber ones or are they too soft??
I am wary of using any Nolothane or similar products because they don't last like they say they will which is half the reason for fitting them in the first place.
I am wary of using any Nolothane or similar products because they don't last like they say they will which is half the reason for fitting them in the first place.
#11
_2wild4u_
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Posted 21 March 2012 - 11:55 PM
they will fail quicker if the car isnt driven, some brands worse than others, best put whiteline ones in theyre black opaque and last
#12
Stinga
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Posted 31 March 2012 - 12:36 PM
my ute has sat in the shed for about a year and a half, went to roll it out this morning and thought i better check underneath it first..
#13
_Quagmire_
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Posted 31 March 2012 - 06:07 PM
are lowering blocks legal stinga?
and yeah you know what they say bout suckers....
and yeah you know what they say bout suckers....
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