
Leaking diff
#26
Posted 11 September 2012 - 02:17 PM
#27
Posted 11 September 2012 - 02:48 PM
You can swap the yoke with the centre in place, but if its leaking your gonna have to take it out to replace the gasket anyway.
Yeah I know its a real lose lose situation. I supplied the diff shop with a complete gasket kit, but its been leaking ever since I put oil in it. 0klms on the clock...
Not to mention that its a lot easier out, Banjos are great as you can just put them in the vice
Or the f*cking bin.....
Edited by hanra, 11 September 2012 - 02:50 PM.
#28
Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:40 PM
So now I'm waiting on the eBay V8 yoke to show up and hope its the right one. Then I'll pull the centre out.
Any tips I should know about when refitting?
#29
Posted 12 September 2012 - 07:04 AM
Hope you get it all back together with no more speed bumps
#30
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 September 2012 - 01:28 PM
Being so thin the Banjo housings tend to warp a bit and the gasket face can't necessarily be relied on to be perfectly flat...
Also people being a bit rough can leave burrs on the face of the housing. I've had to run a flat file over a couple of housings to remove burrs that cause slight oil leaks.
#31
Posted 16 September 2012 - 12:09 PM

Are the axle baffles a standard thing?



#32
Posted 16 September 2012 - 12:37 PM
Hahaha, he doesn't like to use gaskets cause they leak!!!
Diff housing baffles might be std in SL/R 5000 but as I don't know much about them I can't say for sure. It would figure they could have baffled housings cause the XU1 had them.
Interesting that you have 3.55 gears in a 3.08 carrier and a 3.08 banjo diff housing.
#33
Posted 16 September 2012 - 03:42 PM
So I hunted around for a centre and came up with this one fine spline LSD 3.55. He did say he had to change bolts or studs or something to make it fit. So I expected for him to fit the centre in and away I go, but he has fitted the 6cyl yoke that came with that centre and used all the other parts that were supplied with my original rear axle assy.
How did you determine it was a 3.08 housing and carrier? What are the identifiers? And I was led to believe the baffles are a standard thing on SLR but I had no idea what they looked like????? Wasn't sure if all banjos had those plates there??
#34
Posted 16 September 2012 - 04:24 PM
The housing originally had a 3.08 open centre in it. I took the entire assy out of the car and gave it to the mechanic. He said SLR 5000 should have fine spline LSD.
So I hunted around for a centre and came up with this one fine spline LSD 3.55. He did say he had to change bolts or studs or something to make it fit. So I expected for him to fit the centre in and away I go, but he has fitted the 6cyl yoke that came with that centre and used all the other parts that were supplied with my original rear axle assy.
How did you determine it was a 3.08 housing and carrier? What are the identifiers? And I was led to believe the baffles are a standard thing on SLR but I had no idea what they looked like????? Wasn't sure if all banjos had those plates there??
3.08 diff housing uses two long bolts at the bottom, one for the drain at the very bottom and the other one is at the 7 o'clock position. All the others are short studs. I see yours has had a long bolt inserted to form a long stud. To do this someone has drilled out the thread in the bolt hole and pressed that bolt in, unless this is how the LH housings came ex factory.
A 3.08/2.78 banjo carrier has the large casting bosses at the bottom, hence the need for the two long bolts.
If you have the 3.55/3.36 carrier compare it to the 3.08 carrier and you'll see the difference. The 3.55/3.36 uses all short studs and a short drain bolt.
I'm just wondering if that long bolt inserted to form a stud is secured firmly enough in the housing to allow the nut to be torqued up correctly.
Just a thought that if the bolt is spinning before the nut is tensioned up to spec then this may account for your diff oil weep.
I assume only the SL/R 5000 diff housings got the baffles.
Edited by S pack, 16 September 2012 - 04:26 PM.
#35
Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:13 AM
If a ratio change was wanted, is it just a matter of changing ring gear and pinion? Or are there other things that need to be carried out?
#36
Posted 17 September 2012 - 12:42 PM
Nice info there Dave. Thanks for pointing all that out.
If a ratio change was wanted, is it just a matter of changing ring gear and pinion? Or are there other things that need to be carried out?
Ring gear (crown wheel), pinion and case. The case is the component the crown wheel bolts to and contains the star gears, springs and LSD cones.
There is a slight dimension difference in the case flange offset where the crown wheel bolts on for a 3.08/2.78 banjo compared to a 3.55/3.36 banjo. The reason for this is differences in the size of the crown wheels for the different ratio sets.
Edited by S pack, 17 September 2012 - 12:43 PM.
#37
Posted 17 September 2012 - 12:55 PM
So with this setup, I could only easily go to a 3.36, which would involve changing the crown wheel and I guess the pinion also?
#38
Posted 21 September 2012 - 05:20 PM
Should I use just this stuff???? And NO gasket?

#39
_Terry_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 05:57 PM
It didn't leak, but, when I tried to change over to another Centre [LSD to Full Spool] I had
a Bottle Jack pushing up on the Yoke and I was lifting the Car off the Ground. It took some doing to
break that seal.
#40
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 06:32 PM
But as mentioned above its really chuck norris speck, some threebond red/brown would probably work as well and be easyer to get back off, either all.
Cheers.
#41
Posted 21 September 2012 - 06:46 PM
#42
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 06:50 PM
When you try to run both is when you have issues.
Cheers.
#43
Posted 21 September 2012 - 06:56 PM
Funny, it had blue sealant and gasket used originally. And it leaked.
Edited by hanra, 21 September 2012 - 06:56 PM.
#44
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 07:02 PM
RTV silicones and flange sealants like 515 are designed to be used with no gasket.
Gasket cements like Loctite #3 and #4 are just that, gasket cements, and designed to be used with gaskets.
Theres a reason Loctite has over 100 different products, everything for a purpose, just make sure you use them correctly and you will NEVER have a leak.
Cheers.
#45
Posted 21 September 2012 - 07:02 PM

#46
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 07:06 PM
#47
Posted 21 September 2012 - 08:51 PM
#48
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 08:59 PM
And you should give me your ute......BTW.....
Cheers.
#49
Posted 21 September 2012 - 09:27 PM

#50
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 21 September 2012 - 09:35 PM
I honestly believe Holden hasnt build a proper car for over 20 years.
Cheers.
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