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GTR gauges LC


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#1 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 06:50 AM

Hi everyone,

Can somebody please shed some light on how to wire up GTR gauges to a SL LC torana.

I think my biggest problem is that I don't know which sender is which on the engine. And if the wires even exist in a SL wiring loom, do I have to put some in.

Thanks

Glenn

#2 S pack

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:46 AM

Hi everyone,

Can somebody please shed some light on how to wire up GTR gauges to a SL LC torana.

I think my biggest problem is that I don't know which sender is which on the engine. And if the wires even exist in a SL wiring loom, do I have to put some in.

Thanks

Glenn


Tan wire is fuel sender, connects to existing fuel gauge.
Dark Blue wire is oil, connects to existing oil warning light.
Dark Green is temperature, connects to existing temp warning light.
Oil light switch is mounted in the side of the crankcase near the oil pump.
Temp light switch is mounted in the top of the cylinder head above the manifolds.
The existing oil and temp light switches must be replaced with gauge sender units.
Pink wires are + (12 volt) supply wires.
Grey wires are + (12volt) dash light circuit.
Existing GEN warning light goes to GEN warning light in AMP gauge. From memory the gauge GEN light bulb holder is different to the std dash GEN warning light bulb holder.
The gauge GEN warning light should have a pale blueish tubular plastic fitting in the back of the AMP gauge. These are often missing from second hand instrument clusters.

You will need to install suitable gauge wiring for the AMP gauge. Extra + (12 volt) power wires with connectors to the temp and oil gauges and the tachometer. You will also need to install a tachometer trigger wire (brown coloured wire in a GTR wiring harness) from the ignition coil negative terminal to the tachometer.

Bulb holders for high beam, brake fail warning and indicators plug straight into the GTR dash.

#3 S pack

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:06 AM

Just remembered the LC std dash will/should have a printed circuit on the back of the instrument panel so some of the bulb holders I referred to may not have wires coming out of them and will not be able to be used on the GTR dash.

#4 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:56 AM

ok thanks heaps,

can you elaborate on "The existing oil and temp light switches must be replaced with gauge sender units."
Are gauge sender units easy to get, I don't know what they are.

Thanks again, another big help!

#5 S pack

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 10:07 AM

Check out these links.
http://www.gmh-toran...or-lj-gtr-dash/
http://www.gmh-toran...re-sender-help/
http://www.gmh-toran...re-gauge-in-lj/
http://www.google.co...ZSs7M-Q&cad=rja

Cheers
Dave

#6 limo

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 05:52 PM

I find it easier to cut the existing ends off the standard loom, use couple of connectors with a short loom to the guages. match colours.
makes much easier to remove/refit the dash unit if you need to change guages or replace globes

#7 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 06:23 PM

Thanks!

yea I remember my mate done that but I didn't quite know what he done.

#8 ribz0

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 01:10 AM

Hi Glenn

I'd be interested how you go as I'm going through the same thing with mine...

I am waiting on new gauges but am changing the AMP to Volt gauge... I have some of the GTR dash wiring but am sure I will have to make a few things up along the way...

Wiring diagrams are really handy and you should be able to follow them ok.. The oil and temp senders must be match to your gauge and can be a bit pricey...

Fuel gauge I'm not too sure about.. I have heard guys putting GTR dash in with standard fuel tanks and all is fine..

Cheers..

#9 debkar

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 10:08 AM

Hi

I agree with limo, my LC had original printed circuit dash. I cut the connector and made a new mini loom up to suit the GTR dash. I used an old HK loom I had in the shed to get all the connectors and additional dash lights required.

Regards Simon

Posted Image

Hi Glenn

I'd be interested how you go as I'm going through the same thing with mine...

I am waiting on new gauges but am changing the AMP to Volt gauge... I have some of the GTR dash wiring but am sure I will have to make a few things up along the way...

Wiring diagrams are really handy and you should be able to follow them ok.. The oil and temp senders must be match to your gauge and can be a bit pricey...

Fuel gauge I'm not too sure about.. I have heard guys putting GTR dash in with standard fuel tanks and all is fine..

Cheers..


Hi Eric,

I used the GTR dash fuel gauge with the standard tank sender, worked perfectly.

Regards Simon

#10 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 04:23 PM

super helpful thanks! I will keep you posted

Glenn

#11 ribz0

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 03:38 AM

Thanks Simon... good to know..

I'm getting some new VDO gauges and they said I would have to get the fuel sender coil redone to suit the gauge... worth doing I think..

Good job on the wiring harness mate.. I reckon mine will end up looking something like that... I scored some of the original loom with the dash all them years ago so hope it all works out.

Cheers

#12 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 05:33 PM

Do I put in one wire for the oil sender, which is located by the oil pump, and does that go straight onto the gauge. Im a bit confused because they say oil warning light, so is there a separate one for that.
Thanks again.

#13 S pack

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 06:57 PM

Do I put in one wire for the oil sender, which is located by the oil pump, and does that go straight onto the gauge. Im a bit confused because they say oil warning light, so is there a separate one for that.
Thanks again.


Hi Glenn

You use the existing oil warning lamp wire. It will need to be extended and have a female spade connector at the end to reach and go onto the oil gauge.

The same deal with the temp wire. Just a word of caution with the temp wires. The warning light dash will have two dark green wires into the one connector. One wire goes to the temp switch in the cylinder head. The other wire is the test wire that connects to the ignition switch. You don't want the test wire connected to the temp gauge so you will need to work out which one it is and make it redundant.

Cheers
Dave.

#14 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 07:42 PM

wow thanks Dave

#15 ribz0

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 04:04 PM

Got my gauges together and all fit it nice...

Not too difficult to wire up... just follow the bouncing ball really. I looped both pos and neg to the gauge lights and be sure you earth the back of the dash as some of your lights will need to be earthed through the back plate.

Extend the sender wires and be sure you have a GOOD earth. I will put an extra heavy earth in to be sure.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

I just need to get hold of a loom plug so Its easy to unplug it if needed. I used wire I had around so not all color coded as original but does the job.

Cheers

#16 _thorley_

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 12:36 PM

Please can anyone tell me where to hook up the three terminals on the back of the tacho???? I am using a Commodore electronic dizzy and an LJ tacho.



#17 ribz0

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 07:40 PM

Hi mate... not sure if you worked it out but pos, neg and coil are 3 terminals you need...

 

Cheers



#18 _thorley_

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 08:47 AM

Hi mate... not sure if you worked it out but pos, neg and coil are 3 terminals you need...

 

Cheers

which one is which on the back of the taco? And I would guess coil positive if you don't know

 

thanks



#19 S pack

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 09:10 AM

Thorley

 

12v power to the tacho is from the dash wiring harness (via the ignition switch) not from the coil.

The tacho trigger is from the coil negative, in an original GTR harness this is a brown wire.

Negative terminal on the tacho is an earth.

 

Looking at the back of the tacho in Eric's pic, the red wire on the right is switched +12v, the wire in the middle is trigger to coil negative (-) terminal and the wire on the left is the earth to chassis.

100_0667.jpg


Edited by S pack, 25 March 2013 - 09:11 AM.


#20 limo

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:33 PM

the tacho should have markings on the plastic piece holding the connectors

looking at tacho from driver seat 12 on left (red wire), l in middle for coil (brown wire), - on left for earth(black wire)



#21 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 06:47 AM

Are these the senders I need. Ones oil and ones temp. The oil one looks used, were do I get a new one from. Also how do you know the difference between a gauge sender and a switch sender. 

Probably all dumb questions, but I am shit at electronics give me a spanner any day, haha. Thanks

 

tempsend_zps6d350901.jpgoilguage_zps310deb55.jpg



#22 torana?

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 07:30 AM

I think that oil one is for a light not a gauge



#23 S pack

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:09 AM

I think that oil one is for a light not a gauge

Spot on.



#24 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:44 AM

This one I got from the link provided by Dave. Is this gauge or light.

Tridon it just say oil pressure senders and sensors.

 

Cheers

 

ScreenShot2014-07-15at104059AM_zps4a7416



#25 _hutch_

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:51 AM

Yup the bottom one is definitely an oil warning light switch,the oil pressure sender unit is a cylinder about 40 mm across and 40mm long,they are expensive around $75,I got the one for mine out of a VH commodore engine I had, they use the same one right through on Holden 6s ,so go see the wreckers.
Just checked my temp sender unit,I have a suspicion that the colour of the insulator denotes the resistance range (VDO) mine is black,so if the temp gauge reads wrong that could be why,as far as a plug Bursons can supply an 8 pin spade type connector in male and female or you can by a duecher plug up to about 23 pins I think,but you will need the correct crimpers to crimp them,otherwise solder them in both cases
Phillip




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