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LX LS1 PARTS LIST HELP

Started by _pete ls1_ , Mar 29 2012 02:16 AM

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38 replies to this topic

#1 _pete ls1_

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 02:16 AM

hey guys just want some help to make sure im going to order the best parts for my converstion?

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

http://www.rodshop.c...olden/lh-uc.htm
auto crossmember and mounts XMLHLS1T56 ???

just want to order the right bits or if anyone knows of any better parts i should order??
any help would be great

cheers

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#2 dattoman

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 08:44 AM

Speak to Andy ... ls2lxhatch before you buy anything
He's been putting an LS into and out of his hatch for the last few years and knows whats what on these things

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#3 Growla

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 09:10 AM

OK I've been through this conversion and since I have done it there are some new oil pans/sumps out that are cast that fit. So if was to do it again this is what I would do.
* use CRS engine mount as they are the lowest engine position.
* Manual gearbox - Holly LSX sump/oil pan
* Auto - Mastmotorsport sump oil Pan
* modify the crossmember for more room. (There is a picture floating around on this forum)
* Wiring loom- Side show perforance
* tacho and speedo Mods -Sheppardon speedos
* Ensure you engine is level with the gearbox installed (cut tunnel to suit).To ensure no drive line vibration.

I am happy to help but this will give you a good start.

cheers

Mark

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#4 _Seldo_

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 02:48 PM

good to know because i am doing the same thing at the moment and having a nightmare with the engine mounts i have wich i think are the CAE ones.

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#5 Growla

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 03:24 PM

I used CAE ones and moved the engine forword 15mm. But the Engine sits high and to have it level in the engine bay you will have to chop alot of the tunnel out. CRS just a bit lower and makes a difference. You may need to dish the top of the crossmember for clearance behind the steering rack with the holley sump.

Forgot add Malwood makes a hydraulic clutch pedal and I know you can make you own, However this fits and it was straight forward to install.

Cheers

Mark

Edited by Growla, 29 March 2012 - 03:27 PM.

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#6 _moot_

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 04:14 PM

mine uses tough mounts,moroso sump and msd starter (pipes are 1 7/8") no tunnel mods or crossmember mods but i'm using an auto box.my wiring loom is from psi conversions in the states.7 wires to connect and all brand new plugs etc)

everything i got from crs or cae was utter garbage.

i have fitted mine more than a few times untill i was happy and i reckon the above combo is the best

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#7 _pete ls1_

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 08:42 PM

yeah im going to use the standard auto box cause i dont want to do any chopping, so Moot does the above links have the right parts?
and also does the gearbox cross member fit up ok from CRS? just want everthing ready to roll before i put the engine. do you have to shave the firewall lip?

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#8 DanWA

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 09:35 PM

mine uses tough mounts,moroso sump and msd starter (pipes are 1 7/8") no tunnel mods or crossmember mods but i'm using an auto box.my wiring loom is from psi conversions in the states.7 wires to connect and all brand new plugs etc)

everything i got from crs or cae was utter garbage.

i have fitted mine more than a few times untill i was happy and i reckon the above combo is the best

my whole conversion parts list were same as moot's bar i used a sideshow performance wiring loom

mate used crs/cae for all his shit in his ls1/6spd lx and it was all totally crap and sent back and forth a few times

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#9 DanWA

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 09:37 PM

Sits fine (this pic is with the box in and exhaust done)

Posted Image

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#10 eyepeeler

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 09:58 PM

I am using Veloctiy's Tough Mounts, they are a really good bit of kit. Jason is a top bloke to deal with as well if you have any drama's, which you wont.

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#11 _pete ls1_

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 10:37 PM

Dan did you cut down you sub frame to fit the exh? and will the heater fit back on when the engine is back in?

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#12 _Seldo_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 01:08 AM

wow looks like there will bea few LS1 Toranas in WA verrt verrt soon

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#13 _pete ls1_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 02:36 AM

wow looks like there will bea few LS1 Toranas in WA verrt verrt soon

well that means there should be plenty of people willing to come round and help

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#14 DanWA

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 08:36 AM

Dan did you cut down you sub frame to fit the exh? and will the heater fit back on when the engine is back in?

No, the pipes are custom made by a member on here "full noise"

Had to do the second knuckle conversion on the steering column only

There is no cutting anywhere, that is a big no-no for engineering and rego

The heater was modified by another member on here "dirtbag" bloke is a genious

Posted Image

wow looks like there will bea few LS1 Toranas in WA verrt verrt soon

Apprently LS1 conversion is easier and more common then 308/350 based conversions now according to a certain W.A member

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#15 _pete ls1_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 09:18 AM

hey that heater box looks sick, any other mods i need to do other than the obvious? ( wiring,exh,tailshaft, ect)
do you have a rough cost ill be looking at for the conversion?
cheers

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#16 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 10:32 AM

Another gauge option is to use the factory tach dash like I did, along with this to run the speedo..

http://www.summitrac...rts/TCI-377300/

And I used the Dakota Digital tacho adapter to run the factory one (along with my fuel pump controller as well)

I just made my own engine mounts (since I didn't even know there was ones made at the time) and used the Moroso sump as well.

My car is a 6 speed, so I did have to do a little tunnel work but run the factory console still so you really can't tell I did anything

Oh, and I run underdash air con and heat, so just plated the firewall.

Posted Image

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#17 _dirtbag_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 10:37 AM

I used CRS mounts and gearbox crossmember on my brothers car and they sat the motor and box (6 speed) in there perfectly. I cut and modified an LS3 rear pan sump, made the extractors myself and had to make a new tunnel. The wiring loom and computer were done by CAE with mafless tune and it was perfect. Not sure what dramas the other guys above had with those companies but I had none.

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#18 DanWA

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 10:39 AM

Everyone goes a different way with everything.

I'm pretty close to 30k now and its not running or painted.

You can get away with 10k-15k doing everything yourself, i wanted a built box and a modified engine though and i had engineering in mind from the start.

Haven't scrimped on anything either... e.g i bought a custom Browns radiator instead of a poxy aussie dessert heater etc.

Two thing i regret is not buying a wrecked car and going commodore stud pattern.

If you're down this way, feel free to pop in for a good look over my car, hard trying to explain every little thing.

Obviously i well researched everything before buying stuff to, speak to Andy (ls2lxhatch), dirtbag, LS1 Hatch for some more handy hints. Andy was a godsend in the early days of my conversion.

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#19 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 10:57 AM

Forgot to mention...I made my own loom. I started with the 2000 Camaro factory engine loom and using the factory shop manuals just went wire by wire taking out what I didn't need and rerouting what I wanted to, where I wanted to. Took an afternoon or so, but saved a heap over an aftermarket loom and works great.
(just had the factory PCM flashed to get rid of the anti-theft and egr codes stuff.)

Also was able to wrap it all with the added in wiring I wanted at the same time as well (sending unit wires, a/c compressor lead, etc)

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#20 _moot_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 01:51 PM

yeah im going to use the standard auto box cause i dont want to do any chopping, so Moot does the above links have the right parts?
and also does the gearbox cross member fit up ok from CRS? just want everthing ready to roll before i put the engine. do you have to shave the firewall lip?

make ya own gearbox crossmember,easy as.you will need to trim a bit of the firewall lip.i only took a little off mine and have 6mm clearance

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#21 _moot_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 01:55 PM

this was the cae mounts.engine sat way to high and i would have had to recess the firewall 30mm+.the pic is with the engine hard up against the firewall

Posted Image

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#22 _moot_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 02:02 PM

head clearance with tough mounts

Posted Image

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#23 _pete ls1_

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 08:55 PM

hey going to try do everthing myself well what i can and i want it to be completely licensed so are you aloud to trim the lip on the fire wall??? would hate not to pass just because of that?
Jeff ive looked at a lot of your stuff and its unreal what you have done with your hatch well done, ill be hitting you up for info for sure when i start :clap:

i would definitely be keen to come down have have a look at you car Dan and enyone else that has done this conversion?
just got mine licensed so last week so keen on getting some miles on it, only bad thing is i work away 2+1 roster so not much time to drive it :cry:

cheers

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#24 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 10:59 AM

You are welcome to check mine out too if you are ever in the area

Ruts did after all while he was over here visiting..lol..

Oh, and I didn't touch the firewall on mine. Not a mile of room, but plenty of room for things to move around. (I just made my mounts to sit the engine as best as possible)