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Likatigers green sleeper

Started by _likatiger_ , Apr 05 2012 07:52 PM

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144 replies to this topic

#51 _Yella Fella_

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Posted 17 May 2012 - 11:36 PM

They do around here nial8r, otherwise the buggers try to throw you into the windscreen on cold mornings.

I got my resistor wire (9v) bypassed and electric choke connected by an auto elec, via the coil, ages ago.

Electric chokes are ace, just set it exactly the same way you do the standard ones. Brilliant. Never looked back. Given the car real nice manners in our coldest weather.

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#52 _nial8r_

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 08:29 AM

HAHA yeah i know mate my old HQ had no choke and i would have to get out to it 5 minutes early before leaving for work fire it over and have a cuppa then it was :3gears:

all the way to work, oh those were the days, just glad im going down the INJ path with my build

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#53 _Yella Fella_

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 11:34 PM

Forgot to mention that I'm also running electronic ignition, so 9v resistor wire setup was no longer required.

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#54 _likatiger_

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 03:53 PM

well a bit of progress. Have now taken it off the road and started pulling apart. Removed so far is the fuel tank. exhaust system, diff, axle, gearbox, bonnet and bonnet springs, radiator, fan, and motor is just about ready to come out. looking behind the bonnet hinges there is the usual rust and will show why the front end doesnt line up when I get the pics uploaded

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#55 _nial8r_

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 05:12 PM

sounds like your hooking in now Jason, this is when you start to find all the little places the dreaded tin worm has been, i hope its not to bad and looking forward to some pic's

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#56 _likatiger_

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 06:08 PM

well got back into it after my last post earlier today. Got guards and nose cone off. Is it possible that the radiator support panel is welded and/ or bolted on? Have been asked by a guy that has a support panel for me to find out which I have. Anyhoo, some pics from today.
Here is why the front end wasnt lining up
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And here is the typical battery tray
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And here is how it sits after tools down.
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Next will be the removal of the motor next weekend hopefully.

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#57 _nial8r_

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 08:33 PM

the rad support is spot welded on Jason you have to drill all of them out to remove the panel. try not to go right through or get you self a spot weld drill bit. to me it looks like if its only thebottom section that has had a hit then there is a good chance it can be repaired with a bit of tin tapping or even cut and replace... whats the bottom section like at the front of the support ??? you may be able to just unpick the lower section to repair it then replace it and it will save you the heart ache of getting everything square again. i done it and it wasnt fun, not one bit. just lucky i have a mate that has been in the game for many yrs now and he talked me through it. all in all if you can get away without unpicking the support you will make it a hell of a lot less stress.

oh and tell ya young bloke to stop playing peek-a-boo, get out of his P.J's put some overall's on and get some tools in his hands and give his old man a hand lol :stirpot:

Edited by nial8r, 12 August 2012 - 08:34 PM.

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#58 _likatiger_

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 09:04 PM

the support is bent and creased at the bottom, top is bent and it is prob better off being replced. Have a schmik replacement lined up though so will prob go down that path. It is the youngest of my two girls playing peek a boo lol. will have to get you over for a look once the motor is out

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#59 _likatiger_

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 07:47 PM

Happy tonight. Got home from work and pulled bell housing off in preparation for the motor to come out on weekend. Then took plenum off and to my delight, no rust. Also none under the scuf strip at drivers door. Hoping this trend continues but dreading if it doesn't

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#60 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:39 AM

sry Jason you think the P.J's would have given it away but didnt take that much notice till now :blush:

but have to admit she does look like a mini you :stirpot:

under the left side is were you wil find the rust under the scuff plate, for some reason the left side is always worse :banghead:

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#61 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 04:48 PM

I would be following nial8r's advice & have a go at repairing the tie rail if it isn't badly rusted. A good rust/damage free radiator support for an LH-LX is hard to find & worth twice it's weight in gold if you do find one. Plus the money you save on either buying a second hand or replacement panel can be spent on other things. Start by unpicking the front part of the tie rail from the radiator support, it'll give you plenty of access to repair both parts & you'll find that with the two parts seperated, they'll bend & shape fairly easy.

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#62 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 07:51 PM

get a hammer and dolly set and i think you will be able to sort it out even if you have to just buy the new lower section and at least you can treat the inner section then plug weld the new lower section on.

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#63 _likatiger_

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Posted 12 September 2012 - 09:16 PM

Scuff plates off on left side and no serious rust to be seen. Gotta love that. Motor is now out and all I need now is a rotisserie and it is game on!
Posted Image

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#64 _nial8r_

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 08:26 AM

you might want to push the front & rear glass out Jason and remove to the doors, boot lid gearbox etc before putting it on the rotisserie, it will make it more manageable then once you get it off the ground a bit then drop the K-frame and diff. just one door with the glass in it weighs a tonne.

can you get any close up pic's of the radiator support ?? what i can see from them pic's it doesn't look to bad and could be straightened out. spending a few hrs sorting it out is a lot better then spending 2 days getting a new one sorted and and squared up again belive me .

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#65 _likatiger_

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 05:57 PM

only things connected underneath are front and rear axles. Will be a few weeks/months before I can get a rotisserie so will give me time to pull the doors and glass out as well as everything inside. Will try and get some pics up in the next few days of the front end. Might try to persuade you to drop in for a looksee one arvo as it would be better seen in the flesh. You may even swear at the lack of something that I am finding :stirpot:

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#66 _nial8r_

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 08:55 AM

i hired my rotisserie from a fella in Sydney, he brings one down sets it up and it cost me $600 for 12mths i think it was. well worth the money..The lack of something your finding hey???? wouldnt be rust would it?? mine was lacking in the rust department compaired to a lot others i've seen thats for sure....

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#67 _j.e.d._

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 09:17 AM

http://www.gmh-toran...ll/#entry701300

I know Australia's a big island so not sure if this is in the same town or freakin miles away! haha..

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#68 _nial8r_

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 04:11 PM

couple of hrs there and back, could be a go'a Jason and at least you would have to worry about weld spatters, over spray etc as it would be yours and you can take your time too !!

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#69 _j.e.d._

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 04:38 PM

absolutely, & when you're done you can sell it again & probably not lose a lot on it either...win win!

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#70 _nial8r_

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 05:27 PM

to right, i was for ever covering the one i hired when i was welding then throwing old sheets or masking tape and news paper when painting. pain in the arse that was..

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#71 _likatiger_

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 06:43 PM

have to see how funds go, but could be interested. Although not sure on the quality of them but there is also the ebay option.

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#72 _likatiger_

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 12:32 AM

look what I scored off evil bay just now for my rebuild. $50 not a bad score either.

Posted Image

Edited by likatiger, 16 October 2012 - 12:33 AM.

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#73 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 08:01 AM

shit jason if i had of know you wanted a factory wheel i would have swapped you mine for your bashed up sports wheel. i have Momo wheel here that i will be putting on mine when the time comes.