37 replies to this topic

[hanra]

I'm embarking on a mission to repaint my engine bay. Now paint and panel is not my thing... Not at all!!!!

I've noticed in the rear corners of the bay there appears to be evidence of old dry seal sealer that is flaking off.

What is best to use to replace this. Also rust converters, I guess POR15 is the stuff to use?

Ive got some SLS 2k primer that I used on my donk and was planning to use in the bay, but what should I put on the bare panels whilst I'm working on them???? As this job might stretch out over a week or two... I'm really dreadin it!!!!

This is what awaits me.... Shudder....

[Mort]

Dirtbag uses stuff called Plus Rust Converter and Primer, check his Monaro thread I think it's in there.

[hanra]

Hmmm ok. I didn't even think of getting it into primer before sealing!

Geeeeeeez..... Can't someone else do it.... :-(

[76lxhatch]

POR15 is for a quick and dirty paint job over rust, if you clean/convert the rust then you just need suitable prep and paint as above. A pressure washer will remove POR15 if used incorrectly (I used one to clean it off an entire engine bay!)

[hanra]

Ok well crappy dirty paint job is not what I want. Do it once. Do it right.

[LHSL]

Ok well crappy dirty paint job is not what I want. Do it once. Do it right.

dont expect anything else from you hanra.

[EunUCh]

Dont let it get you down Hanra,one step at a time,,you'll get there!
It might look like a shit of job but but once you start and finish one bit
you will see its worth it.

[Tyre biter]

What Bomber says is exactly as we did mine except we media blasted the car.
Primer and then seam sealer and then paint is the way to go.
I used the brush on type called U-Pol 'Grey Stripe' bought through a local smash repairer.
It is a permanent flexible product and can be overpainted after an hour, plus it is made to look like the OEM stuff (brush on).
Laid down masking tape each side of the joins where we could, brushed it on and removed the tape for a clean edge - about 2.0cm wide.
I bought a 1 litre tin (still have some left over) but forget how much it cost sorry.
Referencing your photos, here are the pics of how it turned out on mine - just ignore the light grey bits - still need to clean the engine bay entirely after washing out all the sludge from rubbing down the primer;




Cheers, TB

[hanra]

Interesting looking at your brake booster mount on the firewall....

Mine has an extra two holes in the mid section... behind them is captive nuts???

[ryano1911]

If you've got access to an air compressor grab yourself a sandblasting kit from super cheap(there's 3 different models) It's messy as, but it's the only way to get rid of rust properly without cutting it out, then rust convert then do everything Bomber said.
Gun kit:
http://www.superchea...489#Description

Media:
http://www.superchea...800#Description

Edited by ryano1911, 11 April 2012 - 02:13 PM.

[hanra]

You know whats really weird.... Is I just jumped on the SCA website before to look at air powered sanders and stumbled upon those air blast kits! I think Ill give it a try!!!!!

[tuxedoss]

You know whats really weird.... Is I just jumped on the SCA website before to look at air powered sanders and stumbled upon those air blast kits! I think Ill give it a try!!!!!

I've got the one with the hopper on top, less trouble with trying to suck up sand I figured. Only given it a test run on some surface rust around a windscreen edge on a hatch, far better than trying to sand or lightly grind, the finish looked very clean with a frosty look which I imagine is a good surface for paint to stick.
Only thing is on the short run I did the sand goes everywhere including bouncing back at your face, you really need some sort of full face protection

Wondering if those two holes are for a master cylinder, did LH's ever come without a booster?

Edited by tuxedoss, 11 April 2012 - 04:16 PM.

[ryano1911]

Yeah Face protection is a must, I found a cheap welding helmet with just the clear film in the sight window to be really good. You want to try and corden the area off cause it really goes everywhere then you can sweep it up and re use, also cover up any holes where the media can go.
Not sure how that Norton stuff goes I usually use red Garnet like most sand blasting shops. but that stuff should be fine for the amount of blasting your doing.
Oh and make sure you use at least a paper face mask

Edited by ryano1911, 11 April 2012 - 04:26 PM.

[ryano1911]

I agree these little ones are slower but it is due to lack of pressure
Wire wheel on a drill or grinder or if your feeling rich black or purple clean and strip wheel is the easiest for removing paint witout diging holes with a grinder

[hanra]

I've got access to a hefty sized compressor, I was just thinking these blasters might be a better means of removing the surface rust and the loose flaky paint. The better paint I'll use stripper on it. Mainly the surface rust was my concern.

Any suggestions on brands or types of Sean sealers?? Or are they all basically the same?

[hanra]

[hanra]

I reckon the paint in my engine bay is original, the seal sealer in mine is white in colour and has gone hard and flaky.

[tuxedoss]

The stuff in the engine bay is definatley white and seems to be hard and a bit brittle after 35 years, also looks like the same stuff used on the roof drip rails. The black stuff which is not as brittle is the stuff used on the inside to seal seems like the floor pan.
My engine bay looks exactly like yours Hanra, I chipped a bit of that white sealer out of the passenger side corner yesterday and the metal has a light surface rust on it. The supercheap blaster will be perfect to clean that corner up, just need to cover stuff up to keep the sand out

[hanra]

Yep I'm onto it!!!

[Mort]

Brad where did you get the bucket of sandblasting grit from.