Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

UC Hatch rebuild: 383 Chev, mini tubs, full LX treatment.

Started by _BLOWN V6HATCH_ , Apr 13 2012 01:02 PM

Prev

Next
»

Please log in to reply

115 replies to this topic

#26 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 17 May 2012 - 06:29 PM

Thanks mate, i'm keeping at it.

Ok, so small update. The mini tubs are finished.

I finished them last weekend, so i thought this week i better try the rear seats back in to see what needed to be done there. To my complete surprise, they fitted straight back in the hole....I only had to shorten/modify the hinge that bolts the upper seat to the wheel tub and it fitted perfectly. It's as if Holden intended for Torana hatchbacks to be mini tubbed

.

I do recall there being a decent sized gap around the rear seats (which always annoyed me) when the tubs were stock, but who would have thought it would be the perfect gap for the mini tubs? It actually looks much better now as there is no unsightly gap around the seats.

Pics: (sorry they're dark)

Posted Image

I will get some shots with the wheels off on the weekend.

I got hold of a dead second hand HQ Chev radiator for free to try in (until i get my new Race Radiators alloy rad) to make sure all was well. Fits between the rails fine with no mods. Also there will plenty of room at the front of the engine with EF-L fans. I will be cutting off some mounts on the radiator support that protrude past the core (you can see them in the front on pic) to allow the radiator to get full flow. I'm sure they wouldn't make any difference what so ever to cooling, but i want to get rid of them anyway as they look a bit ugly.

Posted Image

Glad i bought the short water pump and not the long. Still room for a blower belt just incase lol.
Posted Image

I've also just about finished the repairs on the drivers guard.

So, that's it for now.

Back to top

#27 _berro59_

Guests

Posted 17 May 2012 - 09:54 PM

Those wheels sit nice after the mini tub. What size tyres are they?

nice!!

Edited by berro59, 17 May 2012 - 09:54 PM.

Back to top

#28 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 17 May 2012 - 10:01 PM

15"x10" rims with 295/50/15. They fit in there nicely now, they fill the tub up. Just the way i like it.

Thanks mate.

Back to top

#29 _fat5000_

Guests

Posted 05 June 2012 - 07:56 PM

Hi like the form spoke to berro last year as i started the same project as him but since i burnt my 4 door mini tub project to the ground on sunday im going back to the hatch with mini tubs this time as yours looks real neat are you panel beater did you knotch the rear rails how low will it sit. in my picture of my blown 4 door i used hyundai springs and had 20mm of tyer showing if you need a number springs let me know Its been a great read thanks to you and berro it makes life easier for guys who arent up where your are.great work

Back to top

#30 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:01 PM

Thanks for the comments mate. Yes, i am a panel beater by trade, but i've been working as a mechanic for the last 8 or so years so i have a few skills up my sleeve. I did notch the rails at the back about 30mm, then i welded a piece of box section on the inside of the rails to strengthen them back up as i wasn't very keen on just having that amount of rail left.

The pics on this page is about how i want the rear to sit, then i will just level the front so the car sits even. I want it to look nice, but i don't want it on it's guts as it needs to be somewhat practical. I'm looking to run 65mm I/D coil over springs as the original type springs are too wide and don't give enough clearance for the wheels. Is this the type of spring you ran? If so, i'd be keen to know what model they came off, because that could be an option....

Back to top

#31 _shan620_

Guests

Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:02 PM

nice build, good to see its being done properly with no short cuts. Love the bare metal look.

Back to top

#32 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:04 PM

Thanks mate, short cuts aren't really an option.

Back to top

#33 _shan620_

Guests

Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:14 PM

Thats it better to take longer to do it properly the 1st time, rather then re-doing it again 12months down the track coz of shortcuts.
Drives me nuts seeing people doing dodgey work.

Back to top

#34 Struggler

Forum Fixture

Members
2,426 posts

Name:Andrew or AJ
Location:Canberra A.C.T.
Car:UC Sedan
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:19 PM

.... I'm looking to run 65mm I/D coil over springs as the original type springs are too wide and don't give enough clearance for the wheels. Is this the type of spring you ran? If so, i'd be keen to know what model they came off, because that could be an option....

I use 65mm ID springs on the rear of my car. Started with 210mm long 250lb/in springs and a spacer. Will be swapping to 250mm long 200lb/in springs depending on how it affects the 60' times. Springs are available everywhere in many different heights and rates.

Back to top

#35 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:33 PM

Thanks Struggler, i remember talking to you (via PM) a while back about all of this. I've pretty much settled on 200l/b aswell as i recall you said the 250l/b springs were stiff as buggery and that's not what i want to be honest. I want the car to still ride nice. Be sure to let me know how you go with the spring change? Pics of the ride height would be much appreciated aswell.

Back to top

#36 Struggler

Forum Fixture

Members
2,426 posts

Name:Andrew or AJ
Location:Canberra A.C.T.
Car:UC Sedan
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 06 June 2012 - 07:16 AM

The 250lb springs really are too harsh.

Will be swapping in the 200lb springs next time I take it to the track so I can get a true back-to-back comparison.

A couple of recent pics on this page of my build thread.... http://www.gmh-toran...t/page__st__275

These pics had the 250lb springs with a 10mm spacer and Pedders urethane top insulators.

Hope that helps.

Back to top

#37 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 06 June 2012 - 12:28 PM

Yours is very close to how i want mine to sit, mabye a touch higher in the rear. Definately show me some pics with the 250mm 200l/b springs in, because that's exactly what i've been thinking for mine.

Back to top

#38 Struggler

Forum Fixture

Members
2,426 posts

Name:Andrew or AJ
Location:Canberra A.C.T.
Car:UC Sedan
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 06 June 2012 - 07:25 PM

Yours is very close to how i want mine to sit, mabye a touch higher in the rear. Definately show me some pics with the 250mm 200l/b springs in, because that's exactly what i've been thinking for mine.

I have test fitted the 200lb springs, sits it about an inch higher. Will post a pic next time they're in.

Back to top

#39 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 06 June 2012 - 08:11 PM

So, 250mm 200l/b spring sits it an inch higher than those pics you showed me? Sounds like exactly what i want. Could you measure the distance from the top of the rim to the bottom of the quarter panel lip for me with the 250l/b springs in please? That would help me heaps.

Back to top

#40 Struggler

Forum Fixture

Members
2,426 posts

Name:Andrew or AJ
Location:Canberra A.C.T.
Car:UC Sedan
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 07 June 2012 - 07:54 AM

As it sits now there is 65mm from the top of a 15" rim to the guard. Take into account this includes a 10mm spacer.

I just remembered, you will also need to modify the spring saddle on the diff to allow the spring to slide over it. I cut the top off mine initially as it flares out a bit at the top, then when I modified the diff I used HQ saddles. I'm sure there is a pic somewhere in my thread.

Hope this helps.

Back to top

#41 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:00 PM

Thanks for that mate. That should help me work out what i need.

Thanks for the heads up, but i've already modified the spring saddles to accept the coil over springs. I've tried a pair in i borrowed off a mate for set up purposes, but they were 350l/b.

Back to top

#42 _youngy_11_

Guests

Posted 07 June 2012 - 06:58 PM

Nice progress mate. Are you running the AU twin thermos? Looks much neater than my VP fan

Back to top

#43 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 07 June 2012 - 07:18 PM

Thanks Ryan, yes i will be running EF/L twin thermos.

Back to top

#44 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:26 PM

So long time no update.

I'll just post a few pics of todays progress.

I think this is the definition of bare metal respray....
Posted Image

So, it'll be in epoxy tomorrow.

I found a small bit of rust around the front screen when i stripped it back that needs to be fixed, but it's nothing major and that will just about conclude the rust repairs.

Stay tuned.

Back to top

#45 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 17 June 2012 - 06:31 PM

What a weekend. So, todays effort.

I found a bit of rust yesterday in the L/H sill (under the chrome scuff plate) when i was stripping the paint off with the wire wheel. I cut that out this morning and welded in some new steel. Also found a tiny hole on the R/H A pillar/sill so i welded that up. Then i/we (my old man has been giving me a hand this weekend) stripped off some more paint and wire wheeled some surface rust in the hatch shut, deoxadined the entire body and epoxy primed it.

It was great today to see the car in nice metal and not keep finding more and more rust (apart from the sill).

Primed and back on it's wheels so i could move it out and clean the shed:

Posted Image

So there it is. Ready for filler work and finishing off the body. I have 1 more bit of rust to fix around the front screen that i found yesterday, but considering some of the rust repairs i've performed on this car, it's very minor lol.

That front guard and nose cone in the pics are finished ready for hi fill.

Is it just me or do cars look ultra tough in primer? I hope it looks that tough when it's painted

.

Back to top

#46 _greg2240_

Guests

Posted 18 June 2012 - 08:11 PM

g'day mate just wondering how you measured how far you went into the quarter panel for the lx lights, im doing the exact same project to my uc hatch, ie dash, front and lights, any help would be great. thanks Greg

Back to top

#47 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 18 June 2012 - 08:56 PM

Hi mate, i just took a rough measurement of where the light bucket would end up, cut into the quarter, then cut the 1/4 on the donor panel longer that it needed to be. Then i just sat it all in place and cut it in with a 1mm cutting disc. Welded it all up, job done.

Hope that makes sense.

Back to top

#48 _greg2240_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2012 - 06:49 PM

yes, makes sense to me, what did you do on the inside of the panel ? just grind and fill or weld again? alsografting the inner front arches did you pretty much do the same ie place over top and then cut out? i noticed the patch welded under the dash near the column, whats that for as i havent taken mine off yet? hope not to many questions. thanks again Greg

Back to top

#49 _Marco72_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2012 - 07:56 PM

nice work mate panel beater myself makes life easy doing much the same to my old LH no rust in it bar the rear quarters boot floor i moved the rear shock mount in aswell can fit 290 /45/17 slicks under its ass '' keep the nice work up ''

Back to top

#50 _BLOWN V6HATCH_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2012 - 08:28 PM

yes, makes sense to me, what did you do on the inside of the panel ? just grind and fill or weld again? alsografting the inner front arches did you pretty much do the same ie place over top and then cut out? i noticed the patch welded under the dash near the column, whats that for as i havent taken mine off yet? hope not to many questions. thanks again Greg

I didn't do anything inside the panel, the welds had penetrated fine so i just left them as is. If you have good penetration, there is no need to do anything with the welds. Yeh, did much the same with the front, just cut both panels long, sat the front in place then ran a 1mm cut off disc through them both at the same time. That way you get a nice, neat 1mm gap to weld up. However, if i hadn't already smoothed the inner guards before i decided to do the LX conversion, i would have just unpicked both inner guards at the chassis rails and fitted the whole inner guard.

The panel welded in around the column is to get rid of the bolt in plate and just have a hole for the column to go through. IMO, the bolt in plate looks ugly, so thats why i did away with it.

No such thing as too many questions mate, i'm happy to help.

nice work mate panel beater myself makes life easy doing much the same to my old LH no rust in it bar the rear quarters boot floor i moved the rear shock mount in aswell can fit 290 /45/17 slicks under its ass '' keep the nice work up ''

Being a panel beater certainly helps. I wish i could say the same for mine, it was riddled with rust. It's almost rust free now though, not much left to fix. I had to move the shock mount inboard aswell, not really a big deal though.

Thanks mate.