nice!!!
UC Hatch rebuild: 383 Chev, mini tubs, full LX treatment.
Started by
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
, Apr 13 2012 01:02 PM
115 replies to this topic
#77
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 19 August 2012 - 08:28 PM
Thats a frOcking lot of valve.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#78
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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Posted 19 August 2012 - 08:31 PM
Yeh, they're straight out of the box with 2.05 intakes. They should work well, it's a 383, so it needs to breath.
#79
_berro59_
_berro59_
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Posted 21 August 2012 - 08:56 PM
Sweet.....................CNC ported out of the box.......................
Edited by berro59, 21 August 2012 - 08:56 PM.
#80
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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Posted 21 August 2012 - 09:05 PM
They really are a pretty good thing. Everything is CNC ported, intake and exhaust runners and combustion chamber. Unbelieveable value for money really, $1800 a pair ready to go. I certainly don't regret my decision to go Chev, that's for sure.
#81
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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Posted 09 September 2012 - 08:18 PM
So this weekend i decided i might start to put the 383 together.
I gave the block a final steam clean at work on Friday, it'd been washed by the machinist, but i always give the block a good steam clean myself before i put it together.
So, first thing is first, crank in.
That went in nicely and spins freely.
With that in, i fitted the pistons to the rods. These are full floating rods, so i can fit them myself without much trouble (don't need to be pressed in like press fit rods). They have whats known as a spirolock to hold the gudgeon pin in the piston. One each side. I havn't done these for a while, they are a bit tedious, but once i'd done a couple i got the hang of it again. However, once i'd done it 16 times, i was a bit over it
Done.
Then i fitted the rings (no pics, not really much to see) and banged the pistons in the holes.
That's about where i left it last night, all went well.
Then this morning, i fitted the camshaft, timing chain and roller lifters. Note the bars holding the lifters together to stop them turning around, this is because it's an early block and the lifters are what's known as retrofit roller lifters. Factory roller cam engines don't have this (Holden or Chev), they have a different set up. Also note the cam button to stop the cam walking out, again this is because it's retrofitted.
And that is where i hit my first hitch of the build. Turned the crank slowly about 1 and a half revolutions and it stopped turning. Number 2 rod touched one of the front cam lobes. This is pretty common on 383 stroker Chevs, depending on the set up, it might not happen, but on mine it did. It only *just* clipped the lobe. It was so minute it didn't even mark the lobe or the rod. So, i blued up the cam lobe and brought it around slowly again and i found where it hit. So, back out with number 2 piston and rod for a light bit of clearancing. Took a tiny bit off the rod (only where the back of the rod bolt is), cleaned and fitted it again, problem solved. All the rest of the rods and lobes clear fine.
With that all done, i sat a head on and loosely bolted it down. Put the pushrods in (supplied in the cam kit) on number 1 cylinder, fitted the rockers and found the pushrods are too short (i was 99% sure they wouldn't fit, i don't even know why they are supplied in the kit as there are so many variables), so now i need to measure up for the right pushrods. That's where i left it today as i don't have an adjustable pushrod here, we have one at work. Stay tuned, i'll be doing that this week.
I gave the block a final steam clean at work on Friday, it'd been washed by the machinist, but i always give the block a good steam clean myself before i put it together.
So, first thing is first, crank in.
That went in nicely and spins freely.
With that in, i fitted the pistons to the rods. These are full floating rods, so i can fit them myself without much trouble (don't need to be pressed in like press fit rods). They have whats known as a spirolock to hold the gudgeon pin in the piston. One each side. I havn't done these for a while, they are a bit tedious, but once i'd done a couple i got the hang of it again. However, once i'd done it 16 times, i was a bit over it
Done.
Then i fitted the rings (no pics, not really much to see) and banged the pistons in the holes.
That's about where i left it last night, all went well.
Then this morning, i fitted the camshaft, timing chain and roller lifters. Note the bars holding the lifters together to stop them turning around, this is because it's an early block and the lifters are what's known as retrofit roller lifters. Factory roller cam engines don't have this (Holden or Chev), they have a different set up. Also note the cam button to stop the cam walking out, again this is because it's retrofitted.
And that is where i hit my first hitch of the build. Turned the crank slowly about 1 and a half revolutions and it stopped turning. Number 2 rod touched one of the front cam lobes. This is pretty common on 383 stroker Chevs, depending on the set up, it might not happen, but on mine it did. It only *just* clipped the lobe. It was so minute it didn't even mark the lobe or the rod. So, i blued up the cam lobe and brought it around slowly again and i found where it hit. So, back out with number 2 piston and rod for a light bit of clearancing. Took a tiny bit off the rod (only where the back of the rod bolt is), cleaned and fitted it again, problem solved. All the rest of the rods and lobes clear fine.
With that all done, i sat a head on and loosely bolted it down. Put the pushrods in (supplied in the cam kit) on number 1 cylinder, fitted the rockers and found the pushrods are too short (i was 99% sure they wouldn't fit, i don't even know why they are supplied in the kit as there are so many variables), so now i need to measure up for the right pushrods. That's where i left it today as i don't have an adjustable pushrod here, we have one at work. Stay tuned, i'll be doing that this week.
#82
_youngy_11_
_youngy_11_
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Posted 10 September 2012 - 10:16 PM
This going to be a wild combo Tim. Toranafest 2013:)!!
#83
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:21 PM
Thanks Ryan, it should get along alright. Toranafest 2013 is certainly a possibility.
So, yesterday i finished building the 383. I'll just post some pics, they tell all
It's up to the point where i am ready to paint it (just the block, not the heads obviously), and also paint the sump, timing cover and water pump. Then i can finish putting it together. The manifold is also just sat in place as i need to do something about making it look a bit nicer.
Trying to make a decision on colour atm.
So, yesterday i finished building the 383. I'll just post some pics, they tell all
It's up to the point where i am ready to paint it (just the block, not the heads obviously), and also paint the sump, timing cover and water pump. Then i can finish putting it together. The manifold is also just sat in place as i need to do something about making it look a bit nicer.
Trying to make a decision on colour atm.
#84
_kp_uc_
_kp_uc_
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Posted 26 September 2012 - 11:22 PM
that looks a little bit sexy ohh, how i love sliding new shiny pieces of engine together! theres something magical about it! this is a great build mate! i remember seeing this hatch in street machine ages ago, and loved it then! loving it more now!
ohh, how i love sliding new shiny pieces of engine together! theres something magical about it! this is a great build mate! i remember seeing this hatch in street machine ages ago, and loved it then! loving it more now!
#85
_greg2240_
_greg2240_
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Posted 11 October 2012 - 07:34 PM
any more progress? all looks killer so far
#86
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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Posted 13 January 2013 - 07:24 PM
Ok, so here is what i've been up to. It's a lot of little things, but it's the little things that make or break a good car, so they have to be done.
First i'll start with what's been done on the body.
I've never been happy with the panel gaps and alignment on this car, so i thought i better do something about it this time. Given the amount of cutting and welding this car has had, it's a given that some of the gaps would be a bit out (Torana gaps aren't much good from the factory anyway, as we all well know...).
I started with the drivers door. Now, i don't have any pics of how it started, but the door never met the 1/4 panel nicely. The 1/4 protruded the door at the bottom, and the gap was big at the bottom also. The sill panel protruded the door and front guard at the bottom aswell, but the gaps were good. So, i started by cutting the lower part of the 1/4 panel off, reshaping it and welding it back on in the right spot so it didn't protrude the door. The next step was to rectify the big gap. Now, the easiest way to fix that is to weld a strip of steel to the edge of the door to extend it. I welded a 6mm wide strip onto the edge of the door, then ground it back a bit at a time until i had a nice 4mm gap all the way down.
The section i cut out and reshaped. Gap is all finished in this pic.
Door shut.
Strip welded to the door. Bad pic, i'll get a better one at some point.
Next up, i cut the sill open just inside the door shut, cut a section out of it, moved it in and welded it all up again.
The finished product. The guard fitted the door good, it just needed minor trimming of the door to get a nice, uniform gap.
I will do the same to the other door, but it's not as bad as this one.
Next up, i hammer and chiseled all the sound matting off the floor.
Then i decided i'd trial fit the new engine as the exhaust ports are raised .100" on the AFR heads, so i wanted to see what it was going to do for extractor clearance. Turns out, it's not too bad. They are closer in some spots, but more clearance in other spots. They are just a bit close to the steering for my liking so i'll mod the drivers side a bit to make some more clearance.
Motor in.
While the steering was all apart, i modified the steering column a bit. The original lower bearing was buggered. So, i cut the column back a but (this helps with extractor clearance at the rear most pipe) and fitted a new proper bearing. Turns out you can buy a bearing off the shelf that fits straight in.
I've also been busy fitting/modifying the AU thermo fans. I started by smoothing out the shroud and making the cut outs for the radiator hoses. I've taken a few ribs off to make them look nicer. I decided i was going to go the extra yards with these to make them look as factory as possible. I have fibreglassed the top radiator cut out and i'm also going to do the lower and fill in a few holes with fibreglass aswell. I have also re routed the wiring so it runs around the bottom instead of the top. Once the shroud is all modified, i will paint it satin black as per factory.
Mods.
In the car.
Then today, i pulled the motor back out. I've bought some little bits to finish the engine off.
Polished alloy timing cover and timing pointer.
Fuel pump block off.
Distributor clamp.
That's about it for now.
Ok, so here is what i've been up to. It's a lot of little things, but it's the little things that make or break a good car, so they have to be done.
First i'll start with what's been done on the body.
I've never been happy with the panel gaps and alignment on this car, so i thought i better do something about it this time.
I started with the drivers door. Now, i don't have any pics of how it started, but the door never met the 1/4 panel nicely. The 1/4 protruded the door at the bottom, and the gap was big at the bottom also. The sill panel protruded the door and front guard at the bottom aswell, but the gaps were good. So, i started by cutting the lower part of the 1/4 panel off, reshaping it and welding it back on in the right spot so it didn't protrude the door. The next step was to rectify the big gap. Now, the easiest way to fix that is to weld a strip of steel to the edge of the door to extend it. I welded a 6mm wide strip onto the edge of the door, then ground it back a bit at a time until i had a nice 4mm gap all the way down.
The section i cut out and reshaped. Gap is all finished in this pic.
Door shut.
Strip welded to the door. Bad pic, i'll get a better one at some point.
Next up, i cut the sill open just inside the door shut, cut a section out of it, moved it in and welded it all up again.
The finished product. The guard fitted the door good, it just needed minor trimming of the door to get a nice, uniform gap.
I will do the same to the other door, but it's not as bad as this one.
Next up, i hammer and chiseled all the sound matting off the floor.
Then i decided i'd trial fit the new engine as the exhaust ports are raised .100" on the AFR heads, so i wanted to see what it was going to do for extractor clearance. Turns out, it's not too bad. They are closer in some spots, but more clearance in other spots. They are just a bit close to the steering for my liking so i'll mod the drivers side a bit to make some more clearance.
Motor in.
While the steering was all apart, i did the usual mod on the steering column..
First i'll start with what's been done on the body.
I've never been happy with the panel gaps and alignment on this car, so i thought i better do something about it this time. Given the amount of cutting and welding this car has had, it's a given that some of the gaps would be a bit out (Torana gaps aren't much good from the factory anyway, as we all well know...).
I started with the drivers door. Now, i don't have any pics of how it started, but the door never met the 1/4 panel nicely. The 1/4 protruded the door at the bottom, and the gap was big at the bottom also. The sill panel protruded the door and front guard at the bottom aswell, but the gaps were good. So, i started by cutting the lower part of the 1/4 panel off, reshaping it and welding it back on in the right spot so it didn't protrude the door. The next step was to rectify the big gap. Now, the easiest way to fix that is to weld a strip of steel to the edge of the door to extend it. I welded a 6mm wide strip onto the edge of the door, then ground it back a bit at a time until i had a nice 4mm gap all the way down.
The section i cut out and reshaped. Gap is all finished in this pic.
Door shut.
Strip welded to the door. Bad pic, i'll get a better one at some point.
Next up, i cut the sill open just inside the door shut, cut a section out of it, moved it in and welded it all up again.
The finished product. The guard fitted the door good, it just needed minor trimming of the door to get a nice, uniform gap.
I will do the same to the other door, but it's not as bad as this one.
Next up, i hammer and chiseled all the sound matting off the floor.
Then i decided i'd trial fit the new engine as the exhaust ports are raised .100" on the AFR heads, so i wanted to see what it was going to do for extractor clearance. Turns out, it's not too bad. They are closer in some spots, but more clearance in other spots. They are just a bit close to the steering for my liking so i'll mod the drivers side a bit to make some more clearance.
Motor in.
While the steering was all apart, i modified the steering column a bit. The original lower bearing was buggered. So, i cut the column back a but (this helps with extractor clearance at the rear most pipe) and fitted a new proper bearing. Turns out you can buy a bearing off the shelf that fits straight in.
I've also been busy fitting/modifying the AU thermo fans. I started by smoothing out the shroud and making the cut outs for the radiator hoses. I've taken a few ribs off to make them look nicer. I decided i was going to go the extra yards with these to make them look as factory as possible. I have fibreglassed the top radiator cut out and i'm also going to do the lower and fill in a few holes with fibreglass aswell. I have also re routed the wiring so it runs around the bottom instead of the top. Once the shroud is all modified, i will paint it satin black as per factory.
Mods.
In the car.
Then today, i pulled the motor back out. I've bought some little bits to finish the engine off.
Polished alloy timing cover and timing pointer.
Fuel pump block off.
Distributor clamp.
That's about it for now.
Ok, so here is what i've been up to. It's a lot of little things, but it's the little things that make or break a good car, so they have to be done.
First i'll start with what's been done on the body.
I've never been happy with the panel gaps and alignment on this car, so i thought i better do something about it this time.
I started with the drivers door. Now, i don't have any pics of how it started, but the door never met the 1/4 panel nicely. The 1/4 protruded the door at the bottom, and the gap was big at the bottom also. The sill panel protruded the door and front guard at the bottom aswell, but the gaps were good. So, i started by cutting the lower part of the 1/4 panel off, reshaping it and welding it back on in the right spot so it didn't protrude the door. The next step was to rectify the big gap. Now, the easiest way to fix that is to weld a strip of steel to the edge of the door to extend it. I welded a 6mm wide strip onto the edge of the door, then ground it back a bit at a time until i had a nice 4mm gap all the way down.
The section i cut out and reshaped. Gap is all finished in this pic.
Door shut.
Strip welded to the door. Bad pic, i'll get a better one at some point.
Next up, i cut the sill open just inside the door shut, cut a section out of it, moved it in and welded it all up again.
The finished product. The guard fitted the door good, it just needed minor trimming of the door to get a nice, uniform gap.
I will do the same to the other door, but it's not as bad as this one.
Next up, i hammer and chiseled all the sound matting off the floor.
Then i decided i'd trial fit the new engine as the exhaust ports are raised .100" on the AFR heads, so i wanted to see what it was going to do for extractor clearance. Turns out, it's not too bad. They are closer in some spots, but more clearance in other spots. They are just a bit close to the steering for my liking so i'll mod the drivers side a bit to make some more clearance.
Motor in.
While the steering was all apart, i did the usual mod on the steering column..
Edited by BLOWN V6HATCH, 13 January 2013 - 07:26 PM.
#87
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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- Guests
Posted 13 January 2013 - 07:27 PM
Bit more....
I've also been busy fitting/modifying the AU thermo fans. I started by smoothing out the shroud and making the cut outs for the radiator hoses. I've taken a few ribs off to make them look nicer. I decided i was going to go the extra yards with these to make them look as factory as possible. I have fibreglassed the top radiator cut out and i'm also going to do the lower and fill in a few holes with fibreglass aswell. I have also re routed the wiring so it runs around the bottom instead of the top. Once the shroud is all modified, i will paint it satin black as per factory.
Mods.
In the car.
Then today, i pulled the motor back out. I've bought some little bits to finish the engine off.
Polished alloy timing cover and timing pointer.
Fuel pump block off.
Distributor clamp.
That's about it for now.
I've also been busy fitting/modifying the AU thermo fans. I started by smoothing out the shroud and making the cut outs for the radiator hoses. I've taken a few ribs off to make them look nicer. I decided i was going to go the extra yards with these to make them look as factory as possible. I have fibreglassed the top radiator cut out and i'm also going to do the lower and fill in a few holes with fibreglass aswell. I have also re routed the wiring so it runs around the bottom instead of the top. Once the shroud is all modified, i will paint it satin black as per factory.
Mods.
In the car.
Then today, i pulled the motor back out. I've bought some little bits to finish the engine off.
Polished alloy timing cover and timing pointer.
Fuel pump block off.
Distributor clamp.
That's about it for now.
#88
_Liam_
_Liam_
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- Guests
Posted 14 January 2013 - 06:51 PM
Awesome mate, just awesome. Great attention to detail. It's a credit to you.
#89
_wayno67_
_wayno67_
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- Guests
Posted 27 March 2013 - 04:06 PM
Nice work mate,wondering what extractors your using? I'm in the process of starting to get serious about fitting my 383.
#90
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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- Guests
Posted 27 March 2013 - 04:34 PM
Hi Wayne, i'm using Castle auto electrics Tri Y extractors. They needed some mods to fit (surprise, surprise), but i only paid $150 for them new off Ebay, so i figure for that money i was happy to mod them a little bit. However, if i paid what Castle Auto asks for them, i'd be pretty annoyed. I am also in the process of opening up the outlets to 2.5". A lot of people say the only way with a Chev powered Torana is custom pipes, and i do tend to agree with that to an extent, but like i said for the money i paid i was happy to mod off the shelf pipes to suit.
What's the plan with your 383? What sort of power are you chasing?
Edited by BLOWN V6HATCH, 27 March 2013 - 04:36 PM.
#91
_wayno67_
_wayno67_
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Posted 27 March 2013 - 07:24 PM
Yes, been told to go custom, so have to find someone i'm confident with, have you heard anything about jet hot extractors?. Looking for about 450hp with a roller cam, got a 9" fitted, drop tank, custom dash gauges, leather interior and doing other work as well.
#92
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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- Guests
Posted 27 March 2013 - 07:44 PM
As far as i'm aware Jet Hot extractors are just Castle Auto headers, but Jet Hot coat them as re sell them. If that's the Jet Hot you're talking about.
As for the engine, don't skimp on the heads, buy the best ones you can afford. With the price of Chev heads these days, you'd be mad to buy anything other than top quality. Alloy headed or cast iron? I'm running a hydraulic roller and aiming for somewhere between 450-500 but hopefully closer to the 500 mark.
#93
_wayno67_
_wayno67_
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Posted 27 March 2013 - 10:07 PM
Yes I thought they were, I think the crs ones are cae as well by the look of it. Going with alloy heads as well , will the big dizzy fit without modifying the lip? Mines already painted so if I need a small dizzy be nice to know now. Also you mentioned the short water pump, is that only for a gilmor belt setup?
#94
_wayno67_
_wayno67_
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- Guests
Posted 28 March 2013 - 06:56 AM
Forgot to ask, can you supply some details on shortening the column end please?
#95
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
_BLOWN V6HATCH_
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- Guests
Posted 28 March 2013 - 11:21 AM
Yeh, Jet hot, CRS and CAE are all one and the same. I could have run the big HEI dizzy in this with the firewall mods it's had but i decided to run the small MSD and a 6AL, for the simple fact the 6AL has a rev limiter. I honestly don't think you'd have a hope in hell of running the big HEI without firewall surgery.
I bought the short pump because i wasn't sure how i'd go for room with the AU fans. I'm also thinking down the track, just incase i decide to build a blown motor there should be enough room (tight though). I think you'd get away with a long pump depending on the thickness of the fans and rad.
There is a how to somewhere on here about modifying the column. Basically i just shortened the casing and put a new roller bearing in it, you can buy the right bearing straight off the shelf. I'll see if i can dig out the part number for it.
There will be some updates on the car soon, the project it still progressing. It's just boring stuff like finishing the body work so i havn't bothered to update.
Edited by BLOWN V6HATCH, 28 March 2013 - 11:23 AM.
#96
_wayno67_
_wayno67_
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Posted 28 March 2013 - 08:36 PM
All info is greatly appreciated. Looking forward to seeing more, Thanks for the help
#97
tefa
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Forum Member
- Name:Teflon
- Location:Belgrave South
- Car:LX 4 Door SL
- Joined: 12-February 09
Posted 28 March 2013 - 09:19 PM
mate this thing is sick
#99
_NewsuxLX_
_NewsuxLX_
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Posted 26 July 2014 - 10:09 AM
Wow! I was just reading through the build. Top job mate. Great work with the rust in the c pillars
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