Hi Mike,
It's good to see you're progressing well - awesome work!
A question: What are you using to do the sandblasting?
Keep up the good work (& the updates),
Cheers,
Jeff
847 replies to this topic
#276
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 06:38 AM
#277
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 07:47 AM
Hi Mike,
It's good to see you're progressing well - awesome work!
A question: What are you using to do the sandblasting?
Keep up the good work (& the updates),
Cheers,
Jeff
Hi Jeff..
I bought a 10 gallon pot..
It works well, You do go through nozzles....
Better than $2000 to get some one who doesnt care to blast.. So far 4 bags of sand/ 8 nozzles... You can sweep up, siv and reuse no problems.. I found the 2mm tip to work the best.. Im using an old welding helmet with acetate tear offs that I cut up and stick on.. works well.
Mike
#278
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 07:07 PM
Hi all...
Had a go at the RH sill end/sill panel today.... Took ages to fit. dont mind the gaps, they closed up as I tacked it together. I took my time as I wanted it right.. Welded in the sill end, Test fits all ok.. Ill hang the door and make sure its all straight before welding on the sill panel..
Guys, I must say that doing the A-pillars and sill end/panel has been the biggest head ache of the whole job so far.. At least its done.. You couldnt pay me to that again
I will now POR 15 the inner sill , inside the sill end, inside the A-pillar and inside the sill panel.. Also clean up the Rear guarter join area as well.. Then seam seal.. Put on panel and that side is done..
The left side will be easier as I have the original sill end..
MIke
Perfect pictures for me mikecatts how it's supposed to be done and how you went about it. Making my confidents higher in my head but hopefull I'll be able to put it together in real life. Great work.
Cheers Woosha
#279
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 07:48 PM
Hi Jeff..
I bought a 10 gallon pot..
It works well, You do go through nozzles....
Better than $2000 to get some one who doesnt care to blast.. So far 4 bags of sand/ 8 nozzles... You can sweep up, siv and reuse no problems.. I found the 2mm tip to work the best.. Im using an old welding helmet with acetate tear offs that I cut up and stick on.. works well.
Mike
Thanks for the info & the pic Mike - much appreciated. I'm planning on blasting just the boot area, engine bay & the hard to get at channel bits and then paint strip the rest. I've already had some bolt on bits blasted and wound up with a bulge in the bonnet the needed shrinking as a result....
What size compressor do you have to run the blaster off? Does it cope OK?
Cheers,
Jeff
#280
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 09:00 PM
Thanks for the info & the pic Mike - much appreciated. I'm planning on blasting just the boot area, engine bay & the hard to get at channel bits and then paint strip the rest. I've already had some bolt on bits blasted and wound up with a bulge in the bonnet the needed shrinking as a result....
What size compressor do you have to run the blaster off? Does it cope OK?
Cheers,
Jeff
Hi Jeff... Yep keep the blaster off the panels..
even mine will dent, let alone the big guys toys... I have used some glass beads at low pressure with the 2mm nozzle to clean around the light areas.. works no problems.I have a 12 cubic ft ingersol rand compressor..
It keeps up at 75psi... But when the nozzles ware out.. it takes more air as it needs more pressure to do the same..
The nozzles are hard to get.. Ive been buying the complete gun with 5 nozzles for $16.. I get 2 at a time.. so for $55 posted for 10 nozzles.. They ware out quickly..
Its a messy shitty job, but at leat ypou have control over the work and will do a better job..... Ware a mask and hood... I hang sheets to catch the over spray..with some 150 "c" channel on the floor to catch..It works.. I also have been stuffing old sheets in the cavaties to stop the sand going through the car..
Edited by mikecatts, 23 November 2012 - 09:02 PM.
#281
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 09:04 PM
Perfect pictures for me mikecatts how it's supposed to be done and how you went about it. Making my confidents higher in my head but hopefull I'll be able to put it together in real life. Great work.
Cheers Woosha
Have fun.. Ive been at it fairly consistantly since April.. And have only just finnished the repairs.. I have been fussy though, and tend to take my time to get right... Probbably gone tooo far really..
One thing I have found,, Use panel bond ware ever you can.. Its good stuff and will seal the seams... Its expensive but worth it.. Ive used 3 tubes for the whole car.. Dont worry about nozzles.. Just squeeze out amount needed and mix with putty knife and apply.. easy.. and piece of mind...
Mike
Edited by mikecatts, 23 November 2012 - 09:07 PM.
#282
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Posted 23 November 2012 - 09:12 PM
The rust repairs are done, done , done.... Took 7 months... Now the paint stripping and undercoating.. Im a happy man....
Edited by mikecatts, 23 November 2012 - 09:13 PM.
#283
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Posted 24 November 2012 - 02:58 PM
Hi all....
I did the lead fill on the front nose cone welds today.. Its a bit too hot in the shed..Thats enough untill tonight when its cooler...
Anyway.. Ive shown the solder paste I use, its expensive but worth it. And the tools.. Its easy to do,, just dont get too hot and let liquify as it will seperate from tin and lead.. Just keep warm enough to mould.. A consitancy of peanut butter seems to be the go..
I had to re-shape the RH corner as it wasnt right.. Lead lets you do that..
Making sure you get ALL the flux and oils off... I tend to wipe quite frequently with thinners when doing this..
Thinners disolves the flux... Not too much else does...
All in all it turned out good... And Its lead, not bog... I will have to give a skim of bog after its undercoated to finnish..
Just like factory :)....
Remember guys.. You CANNOT paint any acid based etch primer on lead as it will not stick... The best is Epotec 408 epoxy primer.. and no bog over lead untill its undercoated.. :)
I will do other peoples cars for them if they want.. I dont think too many people know how to lead fill any more...
Im kinda going to miss the welding.. I did enjoy it, I do like manufacturing... Anyone need a car done, while Im in Torana mode?
Im cheap, will work for food :).. I hate cooking, and I do live by myself..
Heres lots of pics... sorry :)
Mike.
I did the lead fill on the front nose cone welds today.. Its a bit too hot in the shed..Thats enough untill tonight when its cooler...
Anyway.. Ive shown the solder paste I use, its expensive but worth it. And the tools.. Its easy to do,, just dont get too hot and let liquify as it will seperate from tin and lead.. Just keep warm enough to mould.. A consitancy of peanut butter seems to be the go..
I had to re-shape the RH corner as it wasnt right.. Lead lets you do that..
Making sure you get ALL the flux and oils off... I tend to wipe quite frequently with thinners when doing this..
Thinners disolves the flux... Not too much else does...
All in all it turned out good... And Its lead, not bog... I will have to give a skim of bog after its undercoated to finnish..
Just like factory :)....
Remember guys.. You CANNOT paint any acid based etch primer on lead as it will not stick... The best is Epotec 408 epoxy primer.. and no bog over lead untill its undercoated.. :)
I will do other peoples cars for them if they want.. I dont think too many people know how to lead fill any more...
Im kinda going to miss the welding.. I did enjoy it, I do like manufacturing... Anyone need a car done, while Im in Torana mode?
Im cheap, will work for food :).. I hate cooking, and I do live by myself..
Heres lots of pics... sorry :)
Mike.
#285
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 03:48 PM
Hi all....
I put the old girl back on the rotisserie to paint.. easier me thinks as I can move out side..
I have finally got the old crappy paint off the front end.
Paint strip first then orbital sand with 36 grit.. A final quick sandblast just to be sure... Took ages to do..
There was a lot of lightish blue under the new red but over the old, original red.. mainly about the fluted area and towards the bottom.. I wonder what that was about.. Me thinks the racing side somehow???
Look at ALL the bog on the RH side.. That guard is a mess, It will take all the old guys skills to get this one right.. At least its the original guard... Seems the RH side of this car has copped a bit.. I WONT fill with bog...
Guys, have a look at what happens when you bog straight on bare metal.. RUST. I have circled the ares.. It was all over one guard and just under the bog on the other. It didnt work too well.... That was the old days..Today bog over epoxy.. I made sure ALL surface rust was gone.. I sand blasted those ares real good using low pressure glass beads.. No panel warping.
I even took time to sandblast inside the guards where I welded on the nose cone.. And all other internal welding.. No rust there guys...
Seems its going to take ages to take the old paint off.. I think Ill do a panel at a time...
Have a look at how the lead fill turned out on the nose cone.. No probs.. Just a little skim of bog to finnsh...
Im thinking of taking the doors/boonet/boot to a paint strip company and see if they can dip it.. It will be easier, dont know about cheaper though.. These panels are in good nick, Im confident the stripping wont dammage them..
Getting close.
Mike
Lots of pics again..
I put the old girl back on the rotisserie to paint.. easier me thinks as I can move out side..
I have finally got the old crappy paint off the front end.
Paint strip first then orbital sand with 36 grit.. A final quick sandblast just to be sure... Took ages to do..
There was a lot of lightish blue under the new red but over the old, original red.. mainly about the fluted area and towards the bottom.. I wonder what that was about.. Me thinks the racing side somehow???
Look at ALL the bog on the RH side.. That guard is a mess, It will take all the old guys skills to get this one right.. At least its the original guard... Seems the RH side of this car has copped a bit.. I WONT fill with bog...
Guys, have a look at what happens when you bog straight on bare metal.. RUST. I have circled the ares.. It was all over one guard and just under the bog on the other. It didnt work too well.... That was the old days..Today bog over epoxy.. I made sure ALL surface rust was gone.. I sand blasted those ares real good using low pressure glass beads.. No panel warping.
I even took time to sandblast inside the guards where I welded on the nose cone.. And all other internal welding.. No rust there guys...
Seems its going to take ages to take the old paint off.. I think Ill do a panel at a time...
Have a look at how the lead fill turned out on the nose cone.. No probs.. Just a little skim of bog to finnsh...
Im thinking of taking the doors/boonet/boot to a paint strip company and see if they can dip it.. It will be easier, dont know about cheaper though.. These panels are in good nick, Im confident the stripping wont dammage them..
Getting close.
Mike
Lots of pics again..
Edited by mikecatts, 26 November 2012 - 04:00 PM.
#288
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Posted 28 November 2012 - 05:14 PM
Hi all....
What a day.. bloody hot 37deg at the moment..
I managed to get the old paint off the rear guards and the 408 on...
Notice the colour of the panels when using metal conditioner.. It looks rusty but it aint.. Its a protective barrier.. You have to be quick when doing this... and making sure to wash ALL tracers of the acid off.... I used the hose and gave it a really good clean.
It shouldnt rust under the paint again..
Notice the rust spots where they took off the zinc coating on the original metal.. The conditioner puts it back...
Now the roof and window cowl to do...
Im getting the doors/bonnet/boot lids alkaline dipped.. easier and cleaner...
Next time
Mike
What a day.. bloody hot 37deg at the moment..
I managed to get the old paint off the rear guards and the 408 on...
Notice the colour of the panels when using metal conditioner.. It looks rusty but it aint.. Its a protective barrier.. You have to be quick when doing this... and making sure to wash ALL tracers of the acid off.... I used the hose and gave it a really good clean.
It shouldnt rust under the paint again..
Notice the rust spots where they took off the zinc coating on the original metal.. The conditioner puts it back...
Now the roof and window cowl to do...
Im getting the doors/bonnet/boot lids alkaline dipped.. easier and cleaner...
Next time
Mike
#289
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Posted 04 December 2012 - 09:47 PM
Hi all...
Been at it again...
I managed to sandblast inside the window cowl vent area.. Not as bad as I thought.. I was going to replace the panel.. But as there is only a couple of rust holes.. Ive fixed and if it comes back later ill replace the whole panel.. Not now as Ive done the window cowl and dont want to do again just yet.. Ill paint it with the POR 15 red rust paint.. better than black and you wont really see it.. At least it wont be rusty.
I had to cut a piece away so I could get into that area from under the dash. Had to weld up a small hole, no other way to do it.. All back on and rust gone..
How many of you guys have made the effort to get in there and clean.. I reacon ALL toranas will have some type of rust there... My 3 have..
I also did the window openings and under the front inner guard lips from where the welding burnt the paint...
I got into the RH rear inside the guard area with the sanblaster as best as I could, all the loose rust is gone anyway.... Ready for POR 15... Ill do that tomm...
In hindsite.. I wish I took off the whole rear end outer panels, like on page one of my Forum , The way John Gong showed me.. it would of been soooo much better to get to the inner panels that way.. Next time.
On another note.. I dropped a FULL can of 408 as well.. The table top was loose, a board on a frame and it off balanced and went.. My fault, wasnt paying attention.. an expensive patch on my shed floor now... Oh well, take the good with the bad.. and no.. It wasnt because of Wally either..
Mike
Been at it again...
I managed to sandblast inside the window cowl vent area.. Not as bad as I thought.. I was going to replace the panel.. But as there is only a couple of rust holes.. Ive fixed and if it comes back later ill replace the whole panel.. Not now as Ive done the window cowl and dont want to do again just yet.. Ill paint it with the POR 15 red rust paint.. better than black and you wont really see it.. At least it wont be rusty.
I had to cut a piece away so I could get into that area from under the dash. Had to weld up a small hole, no other way to do it.. All back on and rust gone..
How many of you guys have made the effort to get in there and clean.. I reacon ALL toranas will have some type of rust there... My 3 have..
I also did the window openings and under the front inner guard lips from where the welding burnt the paint...
I got into the RH rear inside the guard area with the sanblaster as best as I could, all the loose rust is gone anyway.... Ready for POR 15... Ill do that tomm...
In hindsite.. I wish I took off the whole rear end outer panels, like on page one of my Forum , The way John Gong showed me.. it would of been soooo much better to get to the inner panels that way.. Next time.
On another note.. I dropped a FULL can of 408 as well.. The table top was loose, a board on a frame and it off balanced and went.. My fault, wasnt paying attention.. an expensive patch on my shed floor now... Oh well, take the good with the bad.. and no.. It wasnt because of Wally either..
Mike
#290
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 05:37 AM
great work man,, keep going at it and just remember the better the prep the greater the finish,, i cleaned and preped every mm of my CK, it took me 5 years between other jobs.
LOOKING GOOD
cheers gong
LOOKING GOOD
cheers gong
#291
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:12 AM
Hi Mike, car's looking awesome-great job. I would'nt worry about the spill-it looks a pretty good colour match to the floor
#292
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:45 AM
Hi John.. How are you going?great work man,, keep going at it and just remember the better the prep the greater the finish,, i cleaned and preped every mm of my CK, it took me 5 years between other jobs.
LOOKING GOOD
cheers gong
5 years? I cant wait that long
.. Im wanting done and rego by June 2013... Maybee???Yes its a fussy job... As you said the better prep the better car...
John..what did you do to rust proof the inside heater/window cowl area?
Hi Mike, car's looking awesome-great job. I would'nt worry about the spill-it looks a pretty good colour match to the floor
Ta for that... Not worried about spilt paint, Now I have to go and get some more... Wont happen again...
#293
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:26 PM
Hi all...
I wasnt too happy with the sandblasting inside in the rear RH guard area that I did yesterday.. So I unpicked the spots, Did a little cut and opened it up.. I got the gun right in there as best I could....
ALL the loose rust is gone and Im a bit happier as Ive sen inside and its no too bad.. POR 15 will stop the rest....
I noticed that there was cement all over the inside.. Did they race Rally Cross on cement dust tracks in the early 70's? The panel was full of it..
Have a look at how much black crap was in there.. Lucky I did go this way.. If I had just done as was.. Waste of time as it wouldnt of sealed the rust.. It will now..
Mike
I wasnt too happy with the sandblasting inside in the rear RH guard area that I did yesterday.. So I unpicked the spots, Did a little cut and opened it up.. I got the gun right in there as best I could....
ALL the loose rust is gone and Im a bit happier as Ive sen inside and its no too bad.. POR 15 will stop the rest....
I noticed that there was cement all over the inside.. Did they race Rally Cross on cement dust tracks in the early 70's? The panel was full of it..
Have a look at how much black crap was in there.. Lucky I did go this way.. If I had just done as was.. Waste of time as it wouldnt of sealed the rust.. It will now..
Mike
#294
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Posted 13 December 2012 - 07:10 AM
Hi all.... How are we all going?
Anything new for Xmas presents?
Im wanting/hoping for a steering wheel...
Anyway.. Ive finnshed welding up and POR 15 the RH rear guard area.. Worked out well.. All sealed with Panel bond and painted POR 15 inside.. I got into ALL the nooks and grannies..
I took some pics of inside the window cowl/heater area.. got all the loose rust off, It wasnt too bad. Im amazed.
I made a curved sandblasting tip to get into there.. worked out ok.. Will POR 15 and then top coat with 2k colour, I will do wet on wet as its a prick of an area to sand.... This is the only area that Ill use 2k red.. I want it to last..
I managed also to take the paint off the window cowl area... all painted.. Thats another job done.. Slowly running out of body work...
Its going to be hot today 38C..... No work.. too hot outside, so Im going to make a trolley to move around.. The panel guy wants it on one..
On another note.. I managed to purchase a GOOD grill.. No splits and nice and straight.. It is going to be a pity to paint...
Next time..
Mike
keep cool
Anything new for Xmas presents?
Im wanting/hoping for a steering wheel...
Anyway.. Ive finnshed welding up and POR 15 the RH rear guard area.. Worked out well.. All sealed with Panel bond and painted POR 15 inside.. I got into ALL the nooks and grannies..
I took some pics of inside the window cowl/heater area.. got all the loose rust off, It wasnt too bad. Im amazed.
I made a curved sandblasting tip to get into there.. worked out ok.. Will POR 15 and then top coat with 2k colour, I will do wet on wet as its a prick of an area to sand.... This is the only area that Ill use 2k red.. I want it to last..
I managed also to take the paint off the window cowl area... all painted.. Thats another job done.. Slowly running out of body work...
Its going to be hot today 38C..... No work.. too hot outside, so Im going to make a trolley to move around.. The panel guy wants it on one..
On another note.. I managed to purchase a GOOD grill.. No splits and nice and straight.. It is going to be a pity to paint...
Next time..
Mike
keep cool
#295
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Posted 13 December 2012 - 08:51 AM
Good work there Mike.
The end product should be a work of art!
The lead wiping came up a treat.
Cheers
Damo
The end product should be a work of art!
The lead wiping came up a treat.
Cheers
Damo
#296
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Posted 13 December 2012 - 10:08 AM
Good work there Mike.
The end product should be a work of art!
The lead wiping came up a treat.
Cheers
Damo
Ta for the kind words..
Im not looking for a work of art.. Just trying to get accurate...
I see your in Adelaide.. Bloody hot today, isnt it??
Mike
#297
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Posted 13 December 2012 - 10:13 AM
I'm sure it will be accurate going on what we've seen so far!
Only in Adelaide half the time. But it is hot here in Newman today as well :-)
Only in Adelaide half the time. But it is hot here in Newman today as well :-)
#298
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Posted 14 December 2012 - 09:19 PM
Hi all....
I made the trolley and finnished the repairs.. I have to fit doors and take out bracing..
It is off to get beaten up on Monday... Cant wait.. He said 2-3weeks.. But I dont get back until Ive welded his car.. Looks like Im going to have to do some looonnngg days to finnish his car.. It isnt as bas as Mine was.. Shouldnt take too long.. I figure 4 weeks solid work... I have experiance now.. Sooo much easier for me this time.. I have the jigs, dolly's I made.. easy.. I will make my own replacement panels..I t doesnt need too many.. Mainly front window cowl area..The A-pillars look fine..
Guys I made the trolley 600mm off the ground and made sure that it was sitting as it sits on the road.. The rear front mount is 12.7mm lower thant the front.. some quick calculations and a Plumb bob..alls good.. Its a bit overkill, but It wont move..
Hopefully the next post will be of my XU-1, all beaten up and straightened out .... Then Ill replace the whole metal dash, then colour. . Cant wait..
I will have to do the boot inside and floor inside before that.. I ve gotten onto a "cheap" sandblaster..$300 to do the inside floor and inside boot.. Better than $1000 i was quoted.. It will go there before it comes back home.. Shes going to get around a bit.. Does all right for an old bag...
Mike
I made the trolley and finnished the repairs.. I have to fit doors and take out bracing..
It is off to get beaten up on Monday... Cant wait.. He said 2-3weeks.. But I dont get back until Ive welded his car.. Looks like Im going to have to do some looonnngg days to finnish his car.. It isnt as bas as Mine was.. Shouldnt take too long.. I figure 4 weeks solid work... I have experiance now.. Sooo much easier for me this time.. I have the jigs, dolly's I made.. easy.. I will make my own replacement panels..I t doesnt need too many.. Mainly front window cowl area..The A-pillars look fine..
Guys I made the trolley 600mm off the ground and made sure that it was sitting as it sits on the road.. The rear front mount is 12.7mm lower thant the front.. some quick calculations and a Plumb bob..alls good.. Its a bit overkill, but It wont move..
Hopefully the next post will be of my XU-1, all beaten up and straightened out
.... Then Ill replace the whole metal dash, then colour. . Cant wait..I will have to do the boot inside and floor inside before that.. I ve gotten onto a "cheap" sandblaster..$300 to do the inside floor and inside boot.. Better than $1000 i was quoted.. It will go there before it comes back home.. Shes going to get around a bit.. Does all right for an old bag...
Mike
#299
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Posted 15 December 2012 - 04:54 AM
good idea mike, i done the same thing when i was building my car, the only diffrance was i made mine from old trailer frame and welded lc 4 cyl stubs to it,,, it was good i could tow it around the farm with my dingo, the first couple of pics are of an lj.
here is a pic or 2.
cheers gong
here is a pic or 2.
cheers gong
Edited by LONA-CK, 15 December 2012 - 04:58 AM.
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