Hi all... Ta again Simon.. I hope..as I hate my job..I enjoy doing this and I can work from home..
Back to the Joing job..
I sandblasted all the joining areas and Zinc primed.. I cleaned up the LH middle chassis rail as well.. Shouldnt rust any more.. I cut the inner sill from the front, ready to mate to back..I wont cut the outer untill I know its correct.. A little at a time..
I took off the outer from the window frame.. Im going to do a BIG stagger for strength.... I leveled the rear.. Will get the front on same plane when needed..
Looks like its going to work....
Mike
847 replies to this topic
#327
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:08 PM
Back to the important Job... My car 
...
I spent the morning over the panel guys house.. He showed me how he goes about "shrinking" and "stretching" the panels.... Needs skill and patience.. Takes AGES to get right... Im glad he is being fussy.... The LH side is nearly done.. He just needs to do the front bit and finnish the flute area... He says the flute area is very tricky and wants to take his time... Check out ALL the dings in the rear quarter after he has beaten it.. poor girl shes all bashed and bent..... He assures me he will get most out with very, very little bog.. Just a skim to smooth out.. As I want...
Getting there..
...I spent the morning over the panel guys house.. He showed me how he goes about "shrinking" and "stretching" the panels.... Needs skill and patience.. Takes AGES to get right... Im glad he is being fussy.... The LH side is nearly done.. He just needs to do the front bit and finnish the flute area... He says the flute area is very tricky and wants to take his time... Check out ALL the dings in the rear quarter after he has beaten it.. poor girl shes all bashed and bent..... He assures me he will get most out with very, very little bog.. Just a skim to smooth out.. As I want...
Getting there..
#328
_LONA-CK_
_LONA-CK_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 December 2012 - 02:14 AM
mike she is looking young again, i bet you cant wait to take her on a date,
you know you could just melt the lead out of the front window frame and then re join there
im not to sure if you havent cut to much of the front has the pic can be deceving
going great guns
cheers gong
you know you could just melt the lead out of the front window frame and then re join there
im not to sure if you havent cut to much of the front has the pic can be deceving
going great guns
cheers gong
Edited by LONA-CK, 27 December 2012 - 02:18 AM.
#329
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:59 AM
Ta John.. Ill have a look..I didnt think of that... Im not to sure if its long enough.. We shall see today as I want it done today!
#330
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:41 PM
Hi All.....
My brother helped me today to get together..
And after 9 hours of pushing pulling , grinding, swearing and cursing, measuring and the all important blood .. Its together with some tacks in place.... Worked out REALLY well.... Im surprised it went together so easy.. It lines up nicely.. and after it is done..You will know that it was a cut job...
There is a 3mm difference from Rh wheel base to LH side wheel base.. I attempted to get exactly, but it made the door gaps too big or too small.. So a compromise was needed. I account for loose/warn front end, its a 40 year old car.. so 3mm is nothing really... Its level on both sides.. Horizontaly correct. on all planes... I used a lazer dumpy to check level.. Measure using my LARGE compass... from wheel to wheel.. left and right then side to side front and back... Ran a string line around to make sure all was even... Attached the cross member and fits and is level with the car.. so All is good there as well..
The RH door opening wasnt square so I used a porta power to push in the right shape using the door as a guide... I hung the doors to checked alignment/gaps.. all is good in that department. All lines line up brilliant... Its better than my XU-1.. bastard...
I have to move the LH side forward 2 mm to even gaps of 6mm all round.. Ill do that when welded... Ill weld the inner sill first then cut and place the original back in place..
The good thing about this car.. No A-pillars to fix..They are as new.. The sill ends have a couple of little holes.. Ill fix that..
I installed the window with a rubber to make sure.. Using one of the other Toranas window as a guide.. I placed in a complete car, marked and measured.. Transfered all that to the cut.. Window fits like a charm...
I call this car Frankensteins baby as its a bitsa allright
After Ive finnished fixing..It will go and get sandblasted.. Wont look as bad then..
Im on the lookout now for another 4cyl 2 door as I have a LJ 4 door to take front end off... I want to race NC class and this will be the cheapest way to get a chassis to start... Plus If I have a BIG hit.. Just put another "whole" front end on
I want LJ as the grills are much cheaper and easier to get..
John the lenghts were not long enough to join on seam... Ill keep that in mind for next time..If that ever comes about..
Mike
My brother helped me today to get together..
And after 9 hours of pushing pulling , grinding, swearing and cursing, measuring and the all important blood .. Its together with some tacks in place.... Worked out REALLY well.... Im surprised it went together so easy.. It lines up nicely.. and after it is done..You will know that it was a cut job...
There is a 3mm difference from Rh wheel base to LH side wheel base.. I attempted to get exactly, but it made the door gaps too big or too small.. So a compromise was needed. I account for loose/warn front end, its a 40 year old car.. so 3mm is nothing really... Its level on both sides.. Horizontaly correct. on all planes... I used a lazer dumpy to check level.. Measure using my LARGE compass... from wheel to wheel.. left and right then side to side front and back... Ran a string line around to make sure all was even... Attached the cross member and fits and is level with the car.. so All is good there as well..
The RH door opening wasnt square so I used a porta power to push in the right shape using the door as a guide... I hung the doors to checked alignment/gaps.. all is good in that department. All lines line up brilliant... Its better than my XU-1.. bastard..
.I have to move the LH side forward 2 mm to even gaps of 6mm all round.. Ill do that when welded... Ill weld the inner sill first then cut and place the original back in place..
The good thing about this car.. No A-pillars to fix..They are as new.. The sill ends have a couple of little holes.. Ill fix that..
I installed the window with a rubber to make sure.. Using one of the other Toranas window as a guide.. I placed in a complete car, marked and measured.. Transfered all that to the cut.. Window fits like a charm...
I call this car Frankensteins baby as its a bitsa allright
After Ive finnished fixing..It will go and get sandblasted.. Wont look as bad then..
Im on the lookout now for another 4cyl 2 door as I have a LJ 4 door to take front end off... I want to race NC class and this will be the cheapest way to get a chassis to start... Plus If I have a BIG hit.. Just put another "whole" front end on
I want LJ as the grills are much cheaper and easier to get..
mike she is looking young again, i bet you cant wait to take her on a date,
you know you could just melt the lead out of the front window frame and then re join there
im not to sure if you havent cut to much of the front has the pic can be deceving
going great guns
cheers gong
John the lenghts were not long enough to join on seam... Ill keep that in mind for next time..If that ever comes about..
Mike
Edited by mikecatts, 27 December 2012 - 06:44 PM.
#331
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 28 December 2012 - 07:35 PM
Hi all....
I went to the panel guys house again this morning.. He wanted to show me what he has done... The RH side is almost done.. It isnt so "fat" now and has the proper shape... Will undercoat tomm with 408...
I started to weld up "frankenstein" today.... I increased the voltage and backed off wire speed to get maximin penetration.. No problems.. Stronger than original...
I over laped the sill join..That is what he wanted.. Worked ok... The floor is half welded in. I will fix the RH side rust before welding down..
Ill grind the welds tomm... couldnt be bothered now. Using the spot welder hides the fact that it has been fixed as well...
I tell you what.. next time, I will make sure the car is higher off the ground when setting up.. Welding underneath and upside down is a crappy job.... Ill tack as best I can and fix when higher...
As Chriss... The panel guy doesnt want to spend any cash to buy repo panels/donour.. Im going to attempt to fabricate the 2 rear quarter pieces.. Will work out and be a better fit than repo's.. Will take a bit.. Ill learn as I go so next time it will be quicker.. I know how to make the spare wheel well.. I have a dolly/mould from my car made..
I started to cut the rusty bits away from the A-pillar as well.. This is the only rust on both and hasnt gone through.. All sandblasted and rust is dead..will spray on weld through primer then patch..
Nice relaxing, stress free job...
Mike
I went to the panel guys house again this morning.. He wanted to show me what he has done... The RH side is almost done.. It isnt so "fat" now and has the proper shape
... Will undercoat tomm with 408...I started to weld up "frankenstein" today.... I increased the voltage and backed off wire speed to get maximin penetration.. No problems.. Stronger than original...
I over laped the sill join..That is what he wanted.. Worked ok... The floor is half welded in. I will fix the RH side rust before welding down..
Ill grind the welds tomm... couldnt be bothered now. Using the spot welder hides the fact that it has been fixed as well...
I tell you what.. next time, I will make sure the car is higher off the ground when setting up.. Welding underneath and upside down is a crappy job.... Ill tack as best I can and fix when higher...
As Chriss... The panel guy doesnt want to spend any cash to buy repo panels/donour.. Im going to attempt to fabricate the 2 rear quarter pieces.. Will work out and be a better fit than repo's.. Will take a bit.. Ill learn as I go so next time it will be quicker.. I know how to make the spare wheel well.. I have a dolly/mould from my car made..
I started to cut the rusty bits away from the A-pillar as well.. This is the only rust on both and hasnt gone through.. All sandblasted and rust is dead..will spray on weld through primer then patch..
Nice relaxing, stress free job...
Mike
Edited by mikecatts, 28 December 2012 - 07:37 PM.
#332
_LONA-CK_
_LONA-CK_
-
- Guests
Posted 29 December 2012 - 07:17 PM
going back over your thread mike i see you asked about 4 holes in tour floor
they from factory was filled with black shit and the holes where for water release
dont make the mistake that most make by thinking the big holes with plates and 2 screws in them where for the water release.
cheers gong
they from factory was filled with black shit and the holes where for water release
dont make the mistake that most make by thinking the big holes with plates and 2 screws in them where for the water release.
cheers gong
#333
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:18 AM
going back over your thread mike i see you asked about 4 holes in tour floor
they from factory was filled with black shit and the holes where for water release
dont make the mistake that most make by thinking the big holes with plates and 2 screws in them where for the water release.
cheers gong
Already welded closed.. Im not going to take the car swimming
.. What are the BIG holes for? I assumed water release?
Going to finnish the join today and get on Rotisseier
#334
_LONA-CK_
_LONA-CK_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:24 AM
the big holes are for the same thing there used for today in the making of cars THE JIG that they used to hold the floor on angels why the spotted the cars together.
your doing really well with that join, we must be pretty much alike has i love working metal and have a red heeler and if you dont stop your dog from watching you weld he will go blind. hehahe
cheers gong
your doing really well with that join, we must be pretty much alike has i love working metal and have a red heeler and if you dont stop your dog from watching you weld he will go blind. hehahe
cheers gong
Edited by LONA-CK, 30 December 2012 - 08:26 AM.
#335
_Agent 34_
_Agent 34_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:07 PM
mike,
I have drilled heaps of spot welds and it's a bastard job to get it all separated. Mike you take the spot welding drilling Olympics old chap !
again nice work.
I have drilled heaps of spot welds and it's a bastard job to get it all separated. Mike you take the spot welding drilling Olympics old chap !
again nice work.
#336
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:17 PM
the big holes are for the same thing there used for today in the making of cars THE JIG that they used to hold the floor on angels why the spotted the cars together.
your doing really well with that join, we must be pretty much alike has i love working metal and have a red heeler and if you dont stop your dog from watching you weld he will go blind. hehahe
cheers gong
I always wondered what they were for as drain holes are already in the floor, with sealer in them...
Good people think alike John.. U must be a good man as I am!!!!
...She runs when the welder/grinder starts... They are not stupid dogs... pitty about the owner though
...John u have a PM.
#337
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:25 PM
mike,
I have drilled heaps of spot welds and it's a bastard job to get it all separated. Mike you take the spot welding drilling Olympics old chap !
again nice work.
Grant my friend... How is your drama going??? keep smiling..it will work out..
Bloody spot welds.. I have repetative spot weld syndrome to match my repetative grinding syndrome....... Looks like its part of the job.. At least I have the right gadgets..It does make it easier.
#338
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:37 PM
High all.... Happy new year to you all for tomm..
The join is done.. all welded and solid as... I reinforced the inner sill with some rods.. just to be sure... Ive welded the top of the sill and tacked underneath... too hard to weld upside down.. Ill finnish on rotisserie.... note the weld through primer on the seams.. He didnt want to spend the $80 for panel bond.. His choice, makes it quicker for me.
I took a repair piece from my crappy cut up feebee.... I used the rear left side to fix the front right side.. same angle guys.. It will need some slight banging to fit.. no probs and saves cash.. and will be better than the repo panel.. They suck... So remmember this trick guys...
Ive had enough crawling on the floor welding for one day... Tomm ill spend the morning on it then Im off for new years dinner...
Mike....
The join is done.. all welded and solid as... I reinforced the inner sill with some rods.. just to be sure... Ive welded the top of the sill and tacked underneath... too hard to weld upside down.. Ill finnish on rotisserie.... note the weld through primer on the seams.. He didnt want to spend the $80 for panel bond.. His choice, makes it quicker for me.
I took a repair piece from my crappy cut up feebee.... I used the rear left side to fix the front right side.. same angle guys.. It will need some slight banging to fit.. no probs and saves cash.. and will be better than the repo panel.. They suck... So remmember this trick guys...
Ive had enough crawling on the floor welding for one day... Tomm ill spend the morning on it then Im off for new years dinner...
Mike....
#339
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 January 2013 - 04:43 AM
Hi all.. Just a quick post.. My girl is home for a short stay.. I have to undercoat what the panel guy has repaired..ready for a skim of filler.. Looks good so far..
The LC 4 to 6 is a roller now... Just have to do floor..and some rust and its done..
My house is turning into a "torana" garrage...
Im not complaining..
Pics are from my security camera..Cant be too carefull in todays world..
The LC 4 to 6 is a roller now... Just have to do floor..and some rust and its done..
My house is turning into a "torana" garrage...
Im not complaining..
Pics are from my security camera..Cant be too carefull in todays world..
#340
RIM-010
View Garage
-
- Members
-
- 8,079 posts
DON'T PANIC
- Name:Tim
- Location:Cowell, SA
- Car:LJ 2 Door - HQ Premier
- Joined: 01-March 06
View Garage
Posted 04 January 2013 - 11:27 AM
Love your work mike, as always... I know of a complete LJ 4 cyl 2 door that might be available... Bit rusty/tired, but well within your capabilities! Let me know if you're keen, and I'll ask...
#341
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 January 2013 - 11:46 AM
Love your work mike, as always... I know of a complete LJ 4 cyl 2 door that might be available... Bit rusty/tired, but well within your capabilities! Let me know if you're keen, and I'll ask...
Hi again Tim.... Hows your HR going??? done anything?
I can help you if you want..no charge..advice is for free
Yes please.. The 4cyl LJ would be nice..I want an LJ for a NC race car. .as long as its not too dear.. It will be cut up....
#342
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 January 2013 - 11:52 AM
Hi all...
I was in the shed since 4am.. finnished at 11.30am too bloody hot,, 44 today and its 41 already.
I had to undercoat the RH side that the panel guy done.. Looks a bit rough but will kleen up good with some light filler.. Its 100% better than before..
Its in the sun drying.. the only good thing about being 44 today, is the paint will dry hard... Pics with servalence cam..
I was in the shed since 4am.. finnished at 11.30am too bloody hot,, 44 today and its 41 already.
I had to undercoat the RH side that the panel guy done.. Looks a bit rough but will kleen up good with some light filler.. Its 100% better than before..
Its in the sun drying.. the only good thing about being 44 today, is the paint will dry hard... Pics with servalence cam..
#343
RIM-010
View Garage
-
- Members
-
- 8,079 posts
DON'T PANIC
- Name:Tim
- Location:Cowell, SA
- Car:LJ 2 Door - HQ Premier
- Joined: 01-March 06
View Garage
Posted 04 January 2013 - 10:37 PM
The Prem is a HQ... Nothing yet, had a kid/bought a house etc... Waiting for spare funds to build my shed.
I'll ask old mate about the LJ, and let you know...
I'll ask old mate about the LJ, and let you know...
#344
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:15 AM
Hi all....
Been at it again.. Tyring to beat the heat.. Forcast of 40 today. Im in the shed at 4am untill its too hot, then back out after sundown.. Lucky no neighbours
Anyway.. I managed to take the paint off the outer skin on the doors, ready for a beating.. I also sandblasted and POR 15 inside the doors as well.. No more rust on these guys..Should last another 40 years or so...
I hung the rear quarter windows to check gaps/alingmnent... all is good in that department.. I will paint the frames when black is getting done..
I also managed to start the rust repairs on the 4 to 6 car. The patch I made fits really well.. Easy made from that piece and better than repo.. I will do more today and post..
Im very confident that the 4 to 6 will turn out excellant... cant wait.
Mike
Been at it again.. Tyring to beat the heat.. Forcast of 40 today. Im in the shed at 4am untill its too hot, then back out after sundown.. Lucky no neighbours
Anyway.. I managed to take the paint off the outer skin on the doors, ready for a beating.. I also sandblasted and POR 15 inside the doors as well.. No more rust on these guys..Should last another 40 years or so
...I hung the rear quarter windows to check gaps/alingmnent... all is good in that department.. I will paint the frames when black is getting done..
I also managed to start the rust repairs on the 4 to 6 car. The patch I made fits really well.. Easy made from that piece and better than repo.. I will do more today and post..
Im very confident that the 4 to 6 will turn out excellant... cant wait.
Mike
Edited by mikecatts, 07 January 2013 - 06:17 AM.
#345
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:19 AM
The Prem is a HQ... Nothing yet, had a kid/bought a house etc... Waiting for spare funds to build my shed.
I'll ask old mate about the LJ, and let you know...
Houses.. Money pits more like it.. I built my own.. Took 2 years and i lived in the shed for that period... I saved thousands and got what I wanted.. Was a hard slog.. But worth it.. Seems Im a bit that way.. I dont trust tradies and I will do what I can and I am not affraid to try things.. I can only stuff it up and its all fixable..
Any time you need a hand on your car.. Just ask..
#346
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:10 PM
Hi all.... Ive finnished the floor patches.. Getting way too hot in the shed for me.. 39deg at the moment.. Not fun.
At least the floor is done, rust fixed and welded back to sub chassis/firewall.. Good as new, and cost zip.. Love it
Im going to cook something yummy for dinner.. A HOT, burn your bum curry me thinks
anyway.. Ive tried to show how I go about replacing rusty areas... I make/cut the repaire piece.. Tech in place when happy.. I dolly the piece over the repare area to make fit.. Works well.. Just take your time and no BIG hits.. small taps gets you there.. I find .6mm sheet is the best to form...
When in place, start to cut using a 1mm cutt off disc.. This is a nice gap to weld.. U always need at least 1mm gap when butt welding, as MIG is a "filler" weld.. Dont cut all the way out.. Tack the patch in place after pushing away the rusty piece.. When done and happy.. Do final cut and remove and final tack.. Gring off tacks, then weld,, No more than 15-20mm at a time.. Let cool before going on, no water or air.. Will bulge/shrink if cooled too quickly.
If its too hot, you will blow holes in the metal and keep chasing it.. Dont do that, let cool and fill slowly..
I have scrap pieces with me to fill "blow" holes (thats my new word for today).. Weld one end on, then when hot bend/break off and weld..
I found this to be the easiest way to replace rusty sections... You can make most patches this way... Im going to do as many of the repairs this way as I can. He hasnt too much cash and doesnt want to buy repo bits. He is doing a fantastic job on my car... Got to keep him happy.....
Its an excersize for me too.....
This heat is giving me a hard time.. might not be able to get finnished before I have to start work.. ..Bummer, I wanted it gone as I have some paid jobs next in line...
Anyone want/need some repairs done? Im seriouse and wont charge heaps.. Ill give a fixed quote and if it takes longer.. My problem.. ONLY LC OR LJ TORANAS AT THIS TIME..
I wont strip/clean any cars.. that has to be done before it comes to me...
Im getting a TIG welder soon... I think that that will be a better option to panel weld as I can control the heat better.. Ill use MIG to tack in place then finnish with the TIG.. way better
Mike
At least the floor is done, rust fixed and welded back to sub chassis/firewall.. Good as new, and cost zip.. Love it
Im going to cook something yummy for dinner.. A HOT, burn your bum curry me thinks
anyway.. Ive tried to show how I go about replacing rusty areas... I make/cut the repaire piece.. Tech in place when happy.. I dolly the piece over the repare area to make fit.. Works well.. Just take your time and no BIG hits.. small taps gets you there
.. I find .6mm sheet is the best to form...When in place, start to cut using a 1mm cutt off disc.. This is a nice gap to weld.. U always need at least 1mm gap when butt welding, as MIG is a "filler" weld.. Dont cut all the way out.. Tack the patch in place after pushing away the rusty piece.. When done and happy.. Do final cut and remove and final tack.. Gring off tacks, then weld,, No more than 15-20mm at a time.. Let cool before going on, no water or air.. Will bulge/shrink if cooled too quickly.
If its too hot, you will blow holes in the metal and keep chasing it.. Dont do that, let cool and fill slowly..
I have scrap pieces with me to fill "blow" holes (thats my new word for today).. Weld one end on, then when hot bend/break off and weld..
I found this to be the easiest way to replace rusty sections... You can make most patches this way... Im going to do as many of the repairs this way as I can. He hasnt too much cash and doesnt want to buy repo bits. He is doing a fantastic job on my car... Got to keep him happy.....
Its an excersize for me too.....
This heat is giving me a hard time.. might not be able to get finnished before I have to start work.. ..Bummer, I wanted it gone as I have some paid jobs next in line...
Anyone want/need some repairs done? Im seriouse and wont charge heaps.. Ill give a fixed quote and if it takes longer.. My problem.. ONLY LC OR LJ TORANAS AT THIS TIME..
I wont strip/clean any cars.. that has to be done before it comes to me...
Im getting a TIG welder soon... I think that that will be a better option to panel weld as I can control the heat better.. Ill use MIG to tack in place then finnish with the TIG.. way better
Mike
Edited by mikecatts, 07 January 2013 - 12:12 PM.
#347
_Richie_Sebring_
_Richie_Sebring_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:59 PM
wish you were a bit closer mike, you're a complete artist with that hot glue gun
#348
_toranatime_
_toranatime_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 January 2013 - 08:20 PM
The cars are looking great Mike, your doing a top job. One more thing to add to your panel fitting/shaping guide is the 3 C's that i work by. Clean, Clean, Clean the material before laying down the welds which is especially important with TIG.
What sort of TIG are you looking at Mike? I have a UNIMIG 200 AC/DC which is great and is comparable to other Lincolns and Millers that i have used, and they are very fairly priced.
Keep up the great work mate.
Cheers
What sort of TIG are you looking at Mike? I have a UNIMIG 200 AC/DC which is great and is comparable to other Lincolns and Millers that i have used, and they are very fairly priced.
Keep up the great work mate.
Cheers
#349
_mikecatts_
_mikecatts_
-
- Guests
Posted 08 January 2013 - 03:57 AM
The cars are looking great Mike, your doing a top job. One more thing to add to your panel fitting/shaping guide is the 3 C's that i work by. Clean, Clean, Clean the material before laying down the welds which is especially important with TIG.
What sort of TIG are you looking at Mike? I have a UNIMIG 200 AC/DC which is great and is comparable to other Lincolns and Millers that i have used, and they are very fairly priced.
Keep up the great work mate.
Cheers
Hi Kieran... Ta for the words.
Not too sure yet on what TIG.... Ide like a stand alone unit, not a combo as I feel the standalone will offer better features.. I could use a plasma cutter, but that is not important.. I will go and do some research before I buy.. Only want to spend $600 on it..
I have a Uni Mig 180 at the moment..works very well.. Way better than my old Uni Mig.. Modern technology..
As you can see kieran.. I sandblasted the patch.. Sanblasted the floor lightly.... Didnt wat to blow holes in it
... Yes and clean metal is the go..wish you were a bit closer mike, you're a complete artist with that hot glue gun
I wish it was as easy as "glueing".... Richie...you are too far away..Im in the right place
#350
_LONA-CK_
_LONA-CK_
-
- Guests
Posted 08 January 2013 - 04:08 AM
you are doing great work there mate keep it up, that heat you are working in is real fuked up,,, mate is you buy your self a recess air crinkler tool it will stop this buttweld that you are doing and they have a hole punch for the plug welds on the ops side of the air tool, a tad more work mate but makes the job a lot more better and easyier
cheers gong
cheers gong
2 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users
