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8/70 RALLY RED LC GTR XU-1 REBUILD

Started by _mikecatts_ , Apr 26 2012 11:10 AM
The rebuild

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#476 _flyxu1_

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 07:21 PM

any up dates great thread


#477 _mikecatts_

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 09:06 PM

Ive been waiting for this wet weather to pass so I can put some more high fill on.. Im not happy with the first coats after rubbing down.. It has a couple of very minor low spots.. Ill give it a couple of more coats and give a good rub..


#478 _mikecatts_

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 07:35 PM

Hi all..

I got the second coat of high fill on.. Really only sprayed it on the centre line x 3 coats then a coat over the lot..

I let it sit for a few days..

Started to block back today.. Got the bonnet done. Started with 240, then 320, then finnished with 400. All dry by hand using my long board sanders.

I started to do the LH side.. I have a much better centre line now.. Ive only started. used 240.. Taking my time to get the line correct.. Its tricky.. By the time Ive sanded most of the high fill off.. The line will be nice and sharp.. Ill round off just a tad when done.

I should have the LH side done by tomm.... It takes a while to do..

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#479 sibhs

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 10:38 PM

Looking great Mike, I was doing this a year ago and now I'm driving it.

One thing to check that I didn't.  With door check straps installed open doors fully then push against the resistance, make sure the door edge doesn't touch the door pillar.   If they get close, make them clear, other wise when over opening door the paint will chip on door edge.

 

Go Mike Go!

 

Marty


#480 _mikecatts_

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 07:44 AM

Will do.. That bit is a long way off... Ta for the info.

Looking great Mike, I was doing this a year ago and now I'm driving it.

One thing to check that I didn't.  With door check straps installed open doors fully then push against the resistance, make sure the door edge doesn't touch the door pillar.   If they get close, make them clear, other wise when over opening door the paint will chip on door edge.

 

Go Mike Go!

 

Marty


#481 sibhs

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 05:23 PM

Will do.. That bit is a long way off... Ta for the info.

No Mike!...... the time is now to check and adjust if required.


#482 _duggan208_

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 12:15 AM

I hope and pray that this torana never sees a super market car park.

Regards


#483 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 06:24 AM

No Mike!...... the time is now to check and adjust if required.

Martin.. Im not to sure what you mean..I can "fully" open the doors with out the check strap and the door edges do not touch.... There is plenty of room between the door edge and pillar?????



I hope and pray that this torana never sees a super market car park.

Regards

Do not worry.. It wont go anyware near a car park.... Probably will be a trailer queen. or a very expensive ornament for my lounge.


Edited by mikecatts, 20 January 2015 - 06:22 AM.

#484 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 06:28 AM

Got the line correct.. Took ages, I used my mask/template to get the line, then some tape and guide coated it... Then speedfile with 240/320/400 dry.

Its very straight and as per original with no ripples or finger marks... Now just to get the RH side the same...

Mike

 

 

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#485 _mikecatts_

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 08:12 AM

No Mike!...... the time is now to check and adjust if required.

I checked the check strap and how the door opens..You are correct..They do touch the A-pillar.. Just.. Ill have a scab around and find my check straps and brackets and fit before I paint..

Thanks  for that..


Edited by mikecatts, 23 January 2015 - 08:26 AM.

#486 _mikecatts_

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 08:30 AM

Hi all..

Ive finally got both the LH and RH sides lines correct... took a while..I used my mask and tape.. Both sides are the same....

Just have to do the final blocking down with 400 dry.... Making sure to keep the speed files flat... dont want no ripples or imperfections.

Ive been blocking down for 3 weeks now.. Arms are sore.... and more to go....

Mike

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#487 Potta

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 11:33 AM

Must be getting close to colour aren't you Mike?


#488 _mikecatts_

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 11:42 AM

Hi Craig... very, very close.. My missus thinks Im being too fussy..I want to put some more high fill on the RH centre line as I dont think its sharp enough.. Im going to do it now as its the time to do it.. Its ony where the curve is.. Looks a bit flat for me..Im wanting nice sharp lines..I know thats not how they came..But thats what I want... Ill knock off the "sharp" egde...

Hoping. wanting to undercoat next week and colour the week after.. Being saying that for a bit, but I keep finding little things that I know will bug me..

Only want to do it once and want the paint to last another 40 + years...

Mike


#489 SmacT

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 02:41 PM

Great thread, as many, many others have said Mike. Can you please explain the blocking process more for those of us close to this stage but unsure how? I get taping the line you want and blocking up and/or down to it as you have shown, but are there any tips/tricks to how you use the speedfile, what you use as a guidecoat, how hard you push, how to do final clean up before paint, etc? Might be a big ask, but worth a shot! :-)  


#490 _flyxu1_

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 08:24 PM

I tell what you are a true wizard in fixing the car well done

grantley


#491 _mikecatts_

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 09:27 AM

hi all,, this is what I use to block down... Note the 200 odd sheets of differnt paper, scoures etc....

I tend to use my favourite bolcks... I use my glass block to get the lines/edges very straight....

Takes time, starting with 240-320-400-600 dry....

 

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#492 _mikecatts_

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 10:59 AM

Hi all...

Well after nearly 3 years, 900 odd hours doing rust/body work.

lost count on how many hours blocking down the high fill... easy 150-200...One very, very sore right arm/elbow and a lots of sheets of paper....

I got the high fill nice and flat, not one ripple, has a nice even sheene to it. and nice sharp lines...Im happy with the result..

 

I finally have started to undercoat the car, after seam sealing around some bits...... Have started with the door backs/frames, bonnet back and whole boot lid.

Why I did the backs fisrt is that I didnt really want to hang the doors/bonnet... And being acrylic, when I do the other sides tomm, it will blend. after I give the surface a quick, light scuff, to get rid of the acrylic over spray.. Ill mask up the undersides before I continue..

The body will be done tomm morning.. Good weather for it, this morning, not a breath of wind at 7.30 am low humidty and a nice 20 deg.. perfect.. so did under car port..

Ill leave for a week, Its going to be hot here in SA next week so it will bake on nice,, Then more blocking.. and colour :-)

 

Ive also showed some pics of getting the line right on the bonnet..

Mike

 

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#493 sibhs

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 01:02 PM

Looking great there Mike.
You're bringing back so many memories. It's a fun stage of the build because the car starts to look better and better each coat. But yes! A good test of patience and arm toughness.
Marty


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#494 _mikecatts_

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 03:59 PM

Looking great there Mike.
You're bringing back so many memories. It's a fun stage of the build because the car starts to look better and better each coat. But yes! A good test of patience and arm toughness.
Marty
 

Hi Marty... My arm is very sore.. Have developed "tennis elbow" so the doc says,, Its not tennis elbow, its "sanding elbow"....

Its done now.. and I agree, the colour is going to give me a cheap thrill (or expensive thrill).. cant wait.. Ill be patient and let ALL the inbetween coats dry/shrink before going to nextt stage..

Mike


#495 _flyxu1_

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 04:05 PM

I get the tennis elbow as well from buiding  eg chippy

Put deep heat on the arm and it will reduce the tention

its swelling of the forearm and pulling the muscles tight

they need to losen up again

I do it before going to bed it helps it in morning

cheers hope this helps


#496 _mikecatts_

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 05:09 PM

I get the tennis elbow as well from buiding  eg chippy

Put deep heat on the arm and it will reduce the tention

its swelling of the forearm and pulling the muscles tight

they need to losen up again

I do it before going to bed it helps it in morning

cheers hope this helps

ta for that have done deep heat. worked for a bit, but no more.. hence the trip to the doc..

Its red and swollen..im using a proper brace for tennis elbow now..it helps.. just needs rest..

The things we do for our toys....


#497 ant285

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 05:40 PM

Mike, i have to ask, what seam sealer are you using? Been trying to find a half decent one but unsure where to begin.
Cheers ant

#498 _mikecatts_

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 06:41 PM

Sika flex 529 at. Always waste the first bit as its always oily. Othe than that it ok

#499 Davis

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 08:49 PM

Top work mike, coming along very nicely, the finished product will truly reflect the hard yards you have just put in....

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you still have 3 more cars to do....might need to work on that tennis swing :)

Edited by Davis, 08 February 2015 - 08:49 PM.

#500 _mikecatts_

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 06:04 AM

Top work mike, coming along very nicely, the finished product will truly reflect the hard yards you have just put in....

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you still have 3 more cars to do....might need to work on that tennis swing :)

ta  andrew.. and you are a funny bugger.. I was going to drop them at your house as you seem to know the drill... :-)... next time... get someone else to block down...


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