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8/70 RALLY RED LC GTR XU-1 REBUILD

The rebuild

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#526 _mikecatts_

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 12:21 PM

just had a thought, can anyone help.

are the black outs and the red bit under boot lip correct for an 8/70 Adelaide build XU-1????

Mike

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Edited by mikecatts, 15 February 2015 - 12:22 PM.


#527 S pack

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 11:57 PM

Mike. Adelaide XU1 rear window lower panel masking.

This is Aldo's '73 LJ XU1 however I believe all Adelaide LC & LJ were painted this way.

Ebay39042.jpg

 

Ebay39041.jpg



#528 _mikecatts_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 06:49 AM

Ta for that Dave.. nothing like what was on the car before stripping..

 

What about these? are they correct for 8/70 Adelaide build. which of the door/floor seal are correct? and does it go around the back of the door as in pic 1.

Mike

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#529 _flyxu1_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 06:07 PM

Hi there

I can take some photos of my car but heres some of a early road test on a lc xu1

I can email them to you

Cheers grantley

 



#530 _flyxu1_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 06:16 PM

Note the redwalls on the early xu1 ?

this is one of the early cars as it has both tags on passenger side of rad panel in the engine shot

its out of sportcar world mag aug

cheers grantley



#531 _flyxu1_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 06:18 PM

Another mag I dug out

yellow dolly modern motor aug 70 road test

third photo is from the mag sports car   world re 2 tags on passenger side of car

cheers grantley

 



#532 _mikecatts_

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 06:24 PM

Ta Grantley.

Ist this the way brisbane built cars went?

post-709-0-07463100-1424074623.jpg



#533 S pack

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 06:32 PM

Ta Grantley.

Ist this the way brisbane built cars went?

post-709-0-07463100-1424074623.jpg

^^^ That is a Brisbane build XU1 Mike.

 

The pic below is also a Brisbane XU1

post-709-0-52606400-1424073926.jpg


Edited by S pack, 17 February 2015 - 06:37 PM.


#534 _70lccoupe_

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 01:40 AM

Hi mike if you pm me your email address I have a 10/70 rally red that has never been touched can send you some pics of all the black outs have take. Heaps before it starts it's resto.

Cheers,

Rhys

Forgot to say its adelaide build too

#535 _mikecatts_

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 05:10 AM

Hi mike if you pm me your email address I have a 10/70 rally red that has never been touched can send you some pics of all the black outs have take. Heaps before it starts it's resto.

Cheers,

Rhys

Forgot to say its adelaide build too

pm sent



#536 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 06:15 AM

both tags on the left front is for brassy cars only...and the black around the tail light got the same as the above pic but not the rad one mike that you fist posted.

 

cxheers gong



#537 _mikecatts_

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 07:33 AM

Hi all...

Have found the "correct" way to paint the blackouts for an Adelaide built car.. It will be a surprise and a lot are WRONG.....

 

anyways.. I blocked the undercoat down with 800 wet. ( note the tape to stop water running inside).. Very straight, no ripples and nice sharp lines... Im very happy...

Started to block down the clear on the undersides of bonnet and boot with 1000 wet.

I want to clear tomm before I continue with the top sides. 3 coats very wet.

Its hot In SA this week so I moved the boonet/boot inside to do. Lucky I have no missus here or the shit would of flown....

Weather is looking good for tues/wends to colour the car with the first 4 coats..

 

Mike

 

 



Mike. Adelaide XU1 rear window lower panel masking.

This is Aldo's '73 LJ XU1 however I believe all Adelaide LC & LJ were painted this way.

Ebay39042.jpg

 

Ebay39041.jpg

 Hi Dave.. for your info..This is very wrong for adelaide built LC..

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#538 S pack

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 07:50 AM

Hi Mike, I'm very interested then to see how the rear window/boot panel on an Adelaide LC XU1 is painted.

You are so correct mate, you'd be dead meat right now if your missus lived with you, lol.



#539 _mikecatts_

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 08:05 AM

Hi Mike, I'm very interested then to see how the rear window/boot panel on an Adelaide LC XU1 is painted.

You are so correct mate, you'd be dead meat right now if your missus lived with you, lol.

when its done..Ill post.. Its very different to what we ALL thought..

I wont tell if you dont :-)



#540 Potta

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 11:59 AM

What have you found that makes you so sure Mike?

 

Not doubting you, but I'm interested in what bit of documentation or straight from the horses mouth info you've got.

 

Those pics look a lot more like the Rally Red that I've seen in the past too.

 

I could never post pics of painting inside because I would be dead before I had a chance to post them lol.



#541 _mikecatts_

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Posted 22 February 2015 - 03:41 PM

What have you found that makes you so sure Mike?

 

Not doubting you, but I'm interested in what bit of documentation or straight from the horses mouth info you've got.

 

Those pics look a lot more like the Rally Red that I've seen in the past too.

 

I could never post pics of painting inside because I would be dead before I had a chance to post them lol.

Keep watching.. Its a surprise... Not "painting" inside..just doing the wet rub..



#542 _mikecatts_

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 12:10 PM

Hi all..

Happy days.. The car has finally got some colour.. first 4 coats.. Turned out very well.. The new spray gun works nice.. Iwata Bel Aria 1.6 tip gravity.

easy 12" fan.. has a nice square pattern as to an ovalish pattern with hardley any wastage.. well compared to my old crapper.. It was a pleasure to spray...

 

Good morning for it, no wind, no dust, no bugs. 30% humidity, started at 18deg finnshed at 27deg.. (a controlled spray booth would be very nice)

I kept checking and adjusting with the viscosity cup kept at around 12..wanted a bit thinner.

 I added 10% retarder thinner as I knew the temp would change and it does help with the flow/blending as I cant do the roof in one go.. 2/3 at a time.

... I didnt touch the gun once it was set...

ill let sit for a week or so. then block down and 4-6 more coats..

 

The other day I finnished the undersides of the boot/bonnet.. 5 coats clear after blocking down.. Very nice shine with a nice flat finnish.. will be even better when polished.. I have to let sit for a couple of weeks before I turn them over and colour..

If this is any indication of the gloss/finnsh I will get on the out side.. Im happy..

 

All told, not to bad for a backyarder..

Now I can relax and have a breather.. Im kinda over cars for a bit

Mike

 

 



pics of finnished boot/bonnet insides.

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#543 stevemc32

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 12:27 PM

Looks awesome Mike.



#544 _mikecatts_

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 12:31 PM

im back...

I was at my old mates the other day and we got around to talking about mixing colours..We had a dig through his paints as he has got the original Dulon mixing system with a few old tints.. last time he used it was 1990.. so its old.

We found the main base colour that makes Rally Red.. Its a "magenta". they call it "Rich Red 01096 tinter".it aint red at all.. Lots of nice drugs back then me thinks..

The other main colour is magenta 16934,  Bright orange and a little black and even less white.... No wonder it has an"orange" tinge to it.. Bright orange is VERY bright.. and when its very thin.. ie cleaning the gun..The rags go orange..

 

Dulon paint formular 1970 Rally Red

01012 - 9 white

00740 - 35 reduced black

16927 - 384 bright orange

16934 - 412 magenta

01096 - 500 rich red

all old lead based has a 23% led content.. Know wonder the old colour was a bit redder..

They should of called it Rally Reddish..

Mike

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#545 _70lccoupe_

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 05:49 PM

Looks good mike top job hope mine comes up that well.

#546 sibhs

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Posted 26 February 2015 - 07:55 PM

Looking good Mike.:-)

 

Did you mean to leave the washer bottle hose clips in the bonnet when painting?

 

Marty



#547 _MJD LC 1971_

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 06:33 AM

Great work mate it looks awesome it was interesting what you found out about your rally red paint my lc looks almost orange in full sun and very red in the shade im preparing for a re spray and want to get it right

#548 _mikecatts_

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Posted 27 February 2015 - 06:51 AM

Looking good Mike.:-)

 

Did you mean to leave the washer bottle hose clips in the bonnet when painting?

 

Marty

Yes..I didnt want to break them and have metal floating inside the bonnet cavities.. Ill put a dab of black on when done..


Edited by mikecatts, 27 February 2015 - 06:52 AM.


#549 _mikecatts_

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 05:39 AM

Hi all..

Just a quick update..

Ive finally painted the whole car, top and bottom..

Im in the process of blocking down the first coats...Using 1200 wet, very wet.

 Yep. more sanding..

 

I use a "solid" glass block with a thin rubber pad... This is very good for blocking the colour/clear as its very rigid and "cuts" the paint rather than running over the top.. very good for knocking over imperfections/dust. If you use a softer block.. It just rides over the imperfections and doesnt cut it flat.. My experiance anyways..

The paint is very flat and even. nice sharp distingtive lines.. Im happy. and straight as..

Im wanting to get the next 6 coats on Monday or Tuesday... Weather permitting.

Mike

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Edited by mikecatts, 05 March 2015 - 05:40 AM.


#550 _mikecatts_

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Posted 05 March 2015 - 06:52 AM

Hi all.. Having some people tell me that 1200 is no good for blocking the colour to get ready for the next 6 coats.. They say 600 is required.. I dont think so.. 600 will leave major scratch marks on the colour.. Its acrylic.. so it needs to be polished before paint to give it a nice smooth flat finnish..

Whats everyones else opinion?

Just want  to know what others think..

I have always painted like this and have never had a problem.. am I missing something?????

heres the spec sheets from PPG.. they should know what they are doing..

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Edited by mikecatts, 05 March 2015 - 06:53 AM.





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