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8/70 RALLY RED LC GTR XU-1 REBUILD

The rebuild

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#751 DMLC71

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 08:44 PM

Mike.
You are amazing mate.
This is one sweet classic resto
DazM

#752 _mikecatts_

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Posted 10 August 2015 - 07:28 AM

Hi all.

Got the LH side/boot lid polished.. Looks nice..

also did some date codes for heater box and steering columns..

Started to assemble the engine bay and other bits..

My new wiring loom arrived.. Very nice job, looks brand new. Vintage Wiring Harness.. I supplied my old XU-1 loom and another that had the resistor wire intact and he used mainly the plugs that you cant get and ALL new wire, etc... For $675.. cant go wrong.. I got back all the old bits.. He even puts numbers on the wire and a list of where they go.. Very helpfull.

 

I installed the boot lid/ boot light/loom etc..

 

The boot rubber is way too thick as to original and it doesnt close too well... Has anyone got a decent old/original one I could have/buy/swap...

Or what is the best fitting boot rubber? I looked at the Rares site and their LC boot rubbers are for the LJ, LH, LX and UC.. so one fits all??? Maybee not.

 

Am I going to have this problem with ALL my rubbers... They dont fit????? whos are the best???



Mike.
You are amazing mate.
This is one sweet classic resto
DazM

I try... Its a money pit though...

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#753 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 06:32 AM

Looking good Mike your certainly leaving no stone unturned in this resto.



#754 _mikecatts_

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 09:38 AM

Looking good Mike your certainly leaving no stone unturned in this resto.

Ta Dane...

I keep getting told that "toranas werent built that well from factory"....

I say Why not do it the best you can and do it once only... and Its my car so who cares...

Im still polishing, very slow proccess.. maybee im too fussy... Thats me.. 

 

I polished the boot lid and put some "3M scratch resistant tape/stone guard" where the spoiler sits so it wont scratch/ware through the paint.. I have put this tape under ALL points where bolts/joins, etc touch any painted surfac.. I dont want the paint to be damaged in any way.. Just me being me....and will wrap around all door/sill edges and underneath on the door sills. 

Its good stuff.. not cheap, but what is?

 

Disregard the white spots on the black.. its dust.. the paint is perfect.

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Edited by mikecatts, 13 August 2015 - 09:39 AM.


#755 _mikecatts_

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 12:25 PM

Hi all.. Not a real lot has been happening.. Weather doesnt really encourage me to get out to the shed...

Installed the fuel breather line, the front brake line cross over and the brake booster bracket...

Im going to hang the exhaust before the diff.. got the clamps/brackets/exhaust ready..

 

Anyways.. Ive pulled apart my front and rear end.. Wanting to get ready for paint and new bushers.. Original sway bar/clamps, front K frame, diff casing and springs which is good to see..

 

The Bottom front lower arms were bent.. So I chose a good unbent set, made and welded in the strengthners as per Feb 71 update.. Its not correct for the car.. but better than welding in the 7/16th rod.... Its what I wanted to do so who cares.. Looks the part.. and needed something as they are a week point.

 

The diff casing has baffles welded in as well... Not me.. it was done..

 

I also made up some original looking radio holding brackets/plates for the LC radio that goes under the dash.. I was given an original one to copy..

 

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#756 _Agent 34_

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 06:26 PM

if the baffles are  braised then it's probably the real deal - if welded it's after 


Edited by Agent 34, 04 September 2015 - 06:27 PM.


#757 _mikecatts_

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 07:57 AM

Hi Grant.. The diff baffles were brazed in.. not mig welded.. so is it original?



#758 _oz772_

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 01:08 PM

Hi Grant.. The diff baffles were brazed in.. not mig welded.. so is it original?


What's the date code on the housing Mike? It'll be stamped on the left side of the housing, where the diff centre bolts into the housing. That will give an idea. If it's the original housing for the car, it won't have factory fitted baffles. I think the first factory fitted baffles will be in housings dated from around August 1971, in time for the CK cars. (Of course, they were homologated much earlier, but that was up to race/rally teams to fit them).

#759 S pack

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 04:54 PM

What's the date code on the housing Mike? It'll be stamped on the left side of the housing, where the diff centre bolts into the housing. That will give an idea. If it's the original housing for the car, it won't have factory fitted baffles. I think the first factory fitted baffles will be in housings dated from around August 1971, in time for the CK cars. (Of course, they were homologated much earlier, but that was up to race/rally teams to fit them).

Actually, the diff housing baffles were not homologated until the September 1971 CK XU1's. Prior to the CK XU1 'The CAMS' allowed the use of the (non factory fitment) diff housing baffles in competition by way of the GMH Dealer Service Bulletin. As were other items like the reduced height bump stops, the strengthened LCA's etc.


Edited by S pack, 05 September 2015 - 04:55 PM.


#760 _oz772_

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 06:37 PM

Actually, the diff housing baffles were not homologated until the September 1971 CK XU1's. Prior to the CK XU1 'The CAMS' allowed the use of the (non factory fitment) diff housing baffles in competition by way of the GMH Dealer Service Bulletin. As were other items like the reduced height bump stops, the strengthened LCA's etc.


I think that's what I said.....given the CK cars were released in 9/71, one would expect the first diff housings to use factory fitted baffles would more than likely have an 8/71 date code.

#761 S pack

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 07:48 PM

I think that's what I said.....given the CK cars were released in 9/71, one would expect the first diff housings to use factory fitted baffles would more than likely have an 8/71 date code.

(Of course, they were homologated much earlier, but that was up to race/rally teams to fit them).

 

My comment was aimed more so at the above comment. 

Homologation of the diff housing baffles didn't occur until the CK XU1.

 

Cheers

Dave.


Edited by S pack, 05 September 2015 - 07:48 PM.


#762 _mikecatts_

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Posted 11 September 2015 - 07:11 AM

Diff dates are 02/08/70.. so not original.. Must have been done by the guys that raced it..

Ive found more yellow paint on the springs and some other bits..



#763 _mikecatts_

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 09:13 AM

Hi all.. Still working on the car..

I got the roof linning in, some stainless mouldings on (rares repo  moulding clips dont fit too well, their too fat.. I ended up saving some original ones and used them..), door channel/ door seal rubbers on, rear quarter window seal on, heater box, springs.. and some other bits... Progress is slow

 Im wanting to get the glass and the LH side door on, then I can start the interior.. I want to be able to seal out the dust etc.. Ill install the RH door when inside is done..

 

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Edited by mikecatts, 05 October 2015 - 09:16 AM.


#764 _mikecatts_

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 10:23 AM

Hi all...

Not much has been happening...

I got the front end bits, diff etc sandblasted and painted with new bushers/rubbers and ball joints.

I got rubber bushers.. dont lke synthetic.. and not chineese rubbish...

Will start to assemble soon.. Not forgetting the front spring insulators..

Painted with KBS satin chassis coater over epoxy etch prime.. Wanted something tougher than 2k..

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#765 jd lj

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 11:34 AM

I used the same product on my diff and trailing arms etc recently. It gave a nice satin finish but runs very easily. I put a dowel through the diff housing and supported it on milk crates so I could rotate it while painting it and drying.

#766 ljv8

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Posted 30 October 2015 - 11:43 AM

Mike when I read your posts, and check your photos I always feel like I'm taking mega shortcuts!

 

Great work mate keep it up.  Look forward to seeing this one complete.



#767 _Caustic_

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Posted 06 December 2015 - 09:17 AM

Nice work Mike, professional as usual.Keep pushing with the build mate. Hope lifes treating you well.Your investment is coming into fruition.

Edited by Caustic, 06 December 2015 - 09:27 AM.


#768 _Caustic_

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Posted 06 December 2015 - 09:32 AM

So mate,can't get a picture to load of my LC in Sebring.cheers cob.

Edited by Caustic, 06 December 2015 - 09:42 AM.


#769 _Caustic_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 08:06 AM

Sorry mate,was what i meant to say.cheers all.

#770 _mikecatts_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 09:26 AM

Hi all..

Not much has been happening.. Ive cleared the yard of all my cars/wrecks/donours.. Big differnce.. ALL went to the scrapper... I tried to sell the panels.. Just wankers wanting them for nothing... Nothing new there.. Couldnt be bothered dealing with them.. so scrap they are, not good at .040 cents per kilo...

I sold my other cars and have kept only 3.. Including this XU-1...

Ive rebuilt the front end, sandblasted and painted the mirror stalks/ visor mounts/ash tray lids and a doing an LJ dash.

 

I also repainted the fuel tank.. I didnt get a new repo one as this one was opened up and a baffle put in in its racing days.. so its unique to this car and will sta with the car..

Got a new fuel line.. That has to go in..

 

I have a few coupe doors, dont really want to scrap.. I tried to sell for $200 each. only wankers/dreamers again.. Ill keep a couple and the rest for scrap...

I got the booster in.. and made some "copies" of my ID tags and stuck on...

Got the carbies together for a rebuild.. I bought them on the understanding that they were ready to go on.. No way.. Ill learnt.. waste of $1000....

 

Guys, I have heaps of old used Black GTR seat trims, front and back with the foam.. some good, some crap.. will throw away if no one wants.. can be used for patches or fix a set using bits.. ALL original trims.

 

Ive also finnished my dash restos.. worked out the way to go and did them.. with correct chrome trim and corect fonts..

I stuffed around with all types of chrome paint.. and no good.. The way Ive finnished them is as close to original as I can get..

 

My motor is getting rebuilt. re-sleeved as it was at 60 thou, new cam and built by a very fussy, guy... everything is getting done as per original XU-1 specs..except Il keep the roller rockers on.... estimate 5k....

 

Nearly there.. Wont get the motor back until march next year..

Im dropping my seats off to Winner products for a retrim after i get the frames back form the zincer..I re-zinced the frames.. a bit of surface rust  and couldnt be bothered sandblasting and painting.. so zinced..

Radiator is getting recored as its correct for my car..

 

other than that.. The car is ready for reassembly.. I woant to put the motor on the k-frame and lower the car onto the diff/front end..easyier for me that way and less chance of dammage..

So I have to wait till then.. Ive ran out of things to do until its off the trolley..

 

To give me something to do.. Im restoring ALL my LC and LJ dashers/ underdashers and heater facias... ALL for sale at a later date.. with correct fonts and chrome...

 

Life is going on... Its sad at the moment, but there might be a light at the end of the tunnel.

Thanks to all over the last few years who have helped, encoureged me and gave me praise.. It kept me going..

I wont be restoring any more cars after this one.. Pitty as Australia has lost me and I another known restorer is not doing anymore.. So where will you all go for work? Looks like ripped off at panel/paint shops.. I tried guys.. No money in restoring cars... easier to work for a wage..

 

On the bright side.. I have taught my self how to fabricate and weld in panels, panel beat and restore LC, LJ toranas..

 A skill ill never loose.. I know nearly everything there is to know about these cars.. One day Ill write a book about "how to identify a LC or LJ Torana".. people do need to know as there are so many shonky, not right cars out there and they are asking BIG bucks for something it aint...

and NO LC or LJ torana is rust free... Except mine :-).... they ALLhave some kind of cancer.. I know where to look......

 

have a good christmas all.

Mike

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Edited by mikecatts, 11 December 2015 - 09:33 AM.


#771 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 11:10 AM

Are you going to chrome the sun visor mounts Mike ?



#772 SmacT

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 01:53 PM

Wow, have read this a few times. I'm glad you are keeping this XU-1, one special car. Sorry things aren't all sunshine and rainbows, hopefully time sorts that out for you, as it can.

 

I know a few guys who have tried the resto route, but they can't make the money they deserve, not without a shitload of hassle, anyway. Shame.

 

Looking forward to the next update.



#773 _Agent 34_

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 04:23 PM

mike I just read the item about the carbies, maniifold , linkages etc  which i sold you or a reference to this. I'm sorry that it turned out like this and sold what I had with photos which i supplied prior to the agreed sale. 

 

it was my understanding that they were correct LC 150's with faint stamps on the face.

 

all the best.


Edited by Agent 34, 11 December 2015 - 04:32 PM.


#774 gad05

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 09:27 AM

Hi Mike,

Always enjoy reading you're build thread, such hi quality work.
Please write you're book one day it would be a great source of knowledge for all the LC,LJ tragics out there.

Cheers Graham.

#775 sibhs

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 08:04 PM

Hi Mike,
You certainly jumped into it balls and all. Learnt a shitload and shared that info. I thankyou and admire your dedication to the hobby.
Thats probably where things went wrong, the hobby became a job.
Hopefully one day you'll get back into it, but do it for the enjoyment.
You're right every torana has rust, unless the bodys been dipped in a solution to get in between every welded seam.
In your current situation (which I have no idea what it is) which car/s do you plan on keeping to drive and enjoy?
Cheers
Marty




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