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8/70 RALLY RED LC GTR XU-1 REBUILD

Started by _mikecatts_ , Apr 26 2012 11:10 AM

The rebuild

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847 replies to this topic

#151 originalglenn

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 08:22 PM

thanks mike i think the sill end is ok
its a 2door
ive got the silver rare spares and it seems to be ok

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#152 WhiteA9XS

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Name:Shaun
Location:Billys Creek
Car:LJ LX
Joined: 08-November 05

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 08:27 PM

gotta say mike my hat goes off to you !!! keep up the great work and well done ..

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#153 _mikecatts_

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 09:13 PM

thanks mike i think the sill end is ok
its a 2door
ive got the silver rare spares and it seems to be ok

Have fun

..

gotta say mike my hat goes off to you !!! keep up the great work and well done ..

Thanks... Its fun..Keeps me out of trouble..

I managed to get a little more done this arvo.

I finnished the RH window cowl section.. You would never know it was done.. They lightish grey areas is the lead.. Looks good.. I sprayed some cavity wax on the inside ... Just in case J
I started to fit the LH A –pillar. Got as far as the last couple of cuts before it fits. Ill do that tomm.. Then the "door on, door off,door on, door off" a few times...
Ill need to work out soon what I want to do about the front radiator support area.. Im finding it hard to locate an original LC one in Any condition.. Theres a car Im looking at, dont really want to buy just to cut off the front, seems a waste.. Im not sure if I want a "repro" one... Ill have to decide soon..
Any one got an LC radiator suport panel for me to buy?????????????????? I need one very soon..
Mike

Edited by mikecatts, 02 August 2012 - 09:15 PM.

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#154 _mikecatts_

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 09:24 PM

That's a whole lot of time - and why it needs someone with your skills to purchase such a challenging project.

Multiply those hours by panel beater rates and it's big dollars!!

The purchase price was VERY reasonable.. Thats helping with the work.. A panel beater should do the work a lot faster than me.. I dont know if they would be as fussy though.. Any rust holes.. Im getting rid of.. I havnt the greatest selection of tools, just everday handyman tools..Ive already killed a 100mm grinder.. I bought a better, lighter one

They would have it ALL.. and know how/experiance.. expecially if they specialise in restoring cars, not so much as panel beating..

Craig.. I notice your avator is an LC XU-1.. Is it yours??? Ide like some pics of the battery tray area and the fire wall Please..
Mike

Edited by mikecatts, 02 August 2012 - 09:26 PM.

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#155 _CraigA_

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 09:51 PM

Mines a Rally Red 8/70 like yours but had the battery in the boot when I got it. Now has modified tray position in engine bay to suit Webers so useless as a reference point.

I recall that there was a thread about battery trays a few years back.

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#156 TOERUNNER

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Car:73 lj gtr 73 lj 2 dr S
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Posted 03 August 2012 - 05:39 AM

http://www.gmh-toran...ge__pid__474534

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#157 TOERUNNER

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 05:42 AM

http://www.gmh-toran...__fromsearch__1

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#158 _mikecatts_

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 09:31 AM

Thanks toerunner..that helps heaps..

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#159 _mikecatts_

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 09:10 PM

Hi all.... Its done.. The LH A-pillar is on.. It took all afternoon.. The door opens and closes with little effort.. I had to lift the pillar about 5mm to line the lines up... Im happy...
Its nice to see the car with most of its panels on..
I must be getting better at this..The RH side took me 1 week.. this took 2 days...
Now the sill panel/sill end.. I might go about this in a different way.. Ill have a think about it..
I took some pics of the spot welder Im using, when it can reach.. I have to get an angle head to get into some tricky areas.. It works a treat,, Saves heaps of time and no plug welds.. Its gets heavy after a while 12.5kg..
Sorry for ALL the pics.. Im excited and wanted to show..
Have a good weekend..
Im off to my girls for the weekend..
Mike

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#160 308 Sunbird

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Car:SS Hatch, 308 Sunbird sedan-Improved Prod racer (sold), HZ Kingy wagon
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Posted 05 August 2012 - 10:15 AM

We love pics
Those gaps are perfect- well done.

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#161 _mikecatts_

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Posted 06 August 2012 - 05:24 PM

Hi all... I got a chance to Panel Bond the rear window channel/sill in.. I pop riveted it were im going to plug weld. I will drill them out. It has to held very tight to get the optimun bond. You have to wait until its dry before you can weld it.. Its very strong stuff..
I cannot fit the spot welder's probes in the tight channel.. I can get to the boot side of the window sill no problems with it.
I normally use the U-POL brand, but my local supplier is out.. This is as good.. At $80 a tube, plus extra tips it out to be..
Ill use it on the sill panels as well.. Nice and strong.. Its a anti-corrosive/seal barrier as well.
I hung a string line under the chassis following the floor pan and rear guard to wheel arch.. Lines up straight, no twisting.. I took a measurement from string line to other side, ,Alls good.. I had to do some slight bending/dolly work to line up nicely... ready for the sill... Im just waiting for the window sill to dry.. I havnt got too many vice grips..

Edited by mikecatts, 06 August 2012 - 05:35 PM.

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#162 _mikecatts_

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 08:21 PM

Hi all.
I managed to get some time on the car this arvo..was a long day at work.. I spot welded the rear window channel on. Also took out the pop riverts and plug welded the top lip on..
Lead filled and primed.. Looks good. Will finnish properly when the final primer is on. Looking at the areas I spot welded, you would think it wasnt replaced.. I like it

.. As good as new..
I also panel bonded the RH door sill on.. Ill spot and plug weld tomm... Then Ill fit the LH sill end and panel..
I need to get the front radiator support panel... Im nearly up to that. Next week I reacon.. I just hope the Rare spares one fits ok..

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#163 _oz772_

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 08:57 PM

Great stuff! Will be terrific to see the paint on this car eventually, after all this hard work.

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#164 _mikecatts_

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:09 PM

Hi all.. Im back.. I thought you'd all like to see the spot welder I purchased to do the car with.. It works very well, and save heaps of time. It will be sold when Im done with it..I cant see a need after ive finnshed the car.. First in first serve..will want around $800 for it..It cost me $1200..

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#165 _mikecatts_

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:14 PM

Great stuff! Will be terrific to see the paint on this car eventually, after all this hard work.

Not too long now Scott.. Im on track for September/October to under coat...I just need to find a suitable primer?
What is a good 2k primer that can go on bare metal?
I want to seam seal on top of this, the re-prime?
do you know of any brands that will work and is one of the better brands??
Mike

Edited by mikecatts, 07 August 2012 - 09:14 PM.

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#166 _BARRY JACKPOT_

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 05:12 AM

Dude, this could well turn out to be the best XU-1 in australia with the attention to detail you are showing, my hat's off to you sir.

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#167 _mikecatts_

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 11:22 PM

Hi Chriss... I dont think so..but ta anyway...

I managed to finnish the RH door sill panel.. All welded on and leaded/primed.. Finaly got it done.. What a job, and here I was thinking when I started that "this will be easy".. I do have to lead fill under neath..Ill do that when its on its back. The next one will be easier.... I just have to fix a little rust hole in the RH guard and the RH side is done..

.
Im putting the car back on the rotisserie... I need to fix some holes in the LH inner door sill..
Mike

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#168 lc2dr

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 07:29 AM

Not too long now Scott.. Im on track for September/October to under coat...I just need to find a suitable primer?
What is a good 2k primer that can go on bare metal?
I want to seam seal on top of this, the re-prime?
do you know of any brands that will work and is one of the better brands??
Mike

Hey Mike,

I use epotec 408 epoxy primer which was recommended to me by a couple of painters.

Cheers,
Jeff

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#169 _mikecatts_

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 08:57 AM

Hey Mike,

I use epotec 408 epoxy primer which was recommended to me by a couple of painters.

Cheers,
Jeff

Thanks Jeff... I did some searching and thats seems the go. One question... I want to etch/undercoat, bog, high fill 2k prime, Prime, colour..
Im going to use acrylic.. Will acrylic primer surfscer go over this??
Will the acrylic primer surfacer stick to the 408? Is the 408 water tight as I will be leaving for a bit before any colour goes on..
Do I have to 408 over the bog?
Mike

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#170 _mikecatts_

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 06:52 PM

Hi all...
I got a little more done this arvo..
I managed to get the car back on the rotisserie.... Its nice to stop working on the floor.... I started to fix the LH door sill... I have to do as per the other side.. Look how damaged the sill panel is.. Its got 30mm of bog in some spots.. This poor old car has had a hard life..

I took some pics of the fine dust/dirt thats in every rusty bit.. Looks like bull dust. This is why the car is sooo full of rust, its in every seam/join.

It wont take too long, buts its still a tricky part.. I bought a floor repair section, It doesnt finnish the same as original so Im not going to use it.. Ill make my patches.. I want the little curved lips on the floor back on, the repo panel ends flat.. Looks a bit tacky really.. I was going to replace the whole front floor section.. But as Im not to happy with the way the repo panel looks/finnished, so Ill leave the original in and fix the patches. The rusty bits are only on the ends where it meats the sill. Im just being fussy.

On another note.. I met a fellow who lives 10 minutes away from me at the local Post Office, the post master introduced us as hes into restoring American Army jeaps and we do chat... The guy I met doesnt live too far away, and the bonus ,, he has complete TORANAS galore in one of his sheds.
He and his son were into them at one stage, hes an older guy and an old school panel beater.. He came over and checked out my work.. Hes impressed, hes going to show me how to "shrink" metal in the body and do general body work.. Plus we are going to put it on his chassis jig he has to check for straightness/squareness and fix if needed.. He wants to, I think hes bored and wants to share his passion.. Hows that for coincidence, Lifes strange. This is going to help me heaps..

Hes invited me over Saturday to help him get a "as new" complete LC GTR front end, choped at the floor/roof pillars. Thats tucked away in the "junk" shed, which by the way is full of torana bits n pieces... I Bet we all wish our junk sheds were like his

..
I might have my radiator support panel.. X my fingers..
Next time.
Mike

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#171 _AD_75_

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 10:47 PM

That's awesome Mike

Keep at it with the old girl, fussy is good!

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#172 lc2dr

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Name:Jeff
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Posted 10 August 2012 - 08:05 AM

Thanks Jeff... I did some searching and thats seems the go. One question... I want to etch/undercoat, bog, high fill 2k prime, Prime, colour..
Im going to use acrylic.. Will acrylic primer surfscer go over this??
Will the acrylic primer surfacer stick to the 408? Is the 408 water tight as I will be leaving for a bit before any colour goes on..
Do I have to 408 over the bog?
Mike

I'm no expert but from what I've been told, as I'm planning to do the same as you, you need to undercoat with 408, bog, 408 over the bog, high fill, acrylic prime, acrylic colour.

Yes, you can leave panels in the 408 for ages. Another thing I was told was that the 408 should be sanded back a little if it's been left a while (fully cured) before bogging or overcoating otherwise you can have adhesion issues.

Jeff

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#173 _mikecatts_

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:21 PM

Ta for that Jeff.. I had a look at protec 426? Its lead based etch primer I was told.. Any thoughts..
Back to the build.. I managed to finnish the LH floor lip and inner sill this arvo... Was a mess..The more I cut the more rust there was, so I just cut out ALL the rusty bits in one piece and replaced the lot... Looks good, Im getting good penetration. I will grind a little tomm... Next the sill end and sill panel..
Theres a pic of the RH sill panel spot welds.. It gets good penetration... You can also see that the panel bond has came through and sealed nicely.

By the way.. I found me a complete LC GTR front end on Sat.. Cut at the pillars and floor. I now have my radiator support panel. Im happy.. Now I have everything to complete the repairs.. Ill still use my guards, as they came off the My car and will go back the same as they came off..

Edited by mikecatts, 13 August 2012 - 08:27 PM.

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#174 _mikecatts_

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Posted 14 August 2012 - 08:49 PM

Hi all...
I put the car back on stands today then I managed to get the old LH door sill off and started to fit the new one.. I decided to use the whole sill panel to go from A pillar to rear wheel arch. The original sill was a mess... It worked out well after much stuffing around. everyting lines up as it should.
By the way, the Rare Spares panel is exactly the same as the original, fits perfect.
I forget to get pics before I fitted the panel.. Ill get some later..
Tomm Ill fit the sill end first..Then go about finnishing it as I did the RH side..
The inner sill and inside the rear guard area are fine.. No major rust at all.. just a bit of surface rust. My luck for a change..
Next time
Mike

Edited by mikecatts, 14 August 2012 - 08:52 PM.