Ta Chriss..... Hows the LJ going?
I loved the pic of the Mopar.. I had a 770 charger in my youth.. It handled like a pig, but went like shit.. Loved the old girl..
I have a day off today.. So in the shed to finnish the sill end/panel.. Wish me luck all goes well..
847 replies to this topic
#177
_mikecatts_
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Posted 15 August 2012 - 12:52 PM
having a coffee break and showing what I have done this morning.. Ive final fitted the sill end and panel bonded it on.. I have to wait untill it dries then final weld and finnish.. Ill do the sill panel now..
I took some pics of the inner sill and the rear guard inner area.. looks good.. I will lightly sandblast and rust proof while its open..
Later.
Mike
I took some pics of the inner sill and the rear guard inner area.. looks good.. I will lightly sandblast and rust proof while its open..
Later.
Mike
#178
_BARRY JACKPOT_
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Posted 15 August 2012 - 03:41 PM
I haven't even started the green machine since the big reveal, been flat out thrashing Barbie and building the race car. I probably should drive it a bit before we take it to Bathurst though.
#179
_sunburst73-xu1_
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Posted 15 August 2012 - 04:06 PM
Would be a good idea Chris.I haven't even started the green machine since the big reveal, been flat out thrashing Barbie and building the race car. I probably should drive it a bit before we take it to Bathurst though.
#180
lc2dr
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Posted 15 August 2012 - 08:56 PM
Ta for that Jeff.. I had a look at protec 426? Its lead based etch primer I was told.. Any thoughts..
No worries Mike.... sorry, don't know anything about the 426.
#181
_markm_
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Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:31 PM
Really enjoying this thread, keep it up, inspiring me while I slowly work on mine.
I have a few very newbie questions....
So rust ground back with wire wheel etc area nice and clean, you all seem to use a rust converter next, what would that be? Then once thats done you etch prime it, again what brand is common or the best and is it a pressure pack deal or are you all using spray guns?
if the area is underneath or between the internal and external panels POR15 seems to be used, what type of POr15 as their website lists a few.
Any help would be great,
Cheers guys
I have a few very newbie questions....
So rust ground back with wire wheel etc area nice and clean, you all seem to use a rust converter next, what would that be? Then once thats done you etch prime it, again what brand is common or the best and is it a pressure pack deal or are you all using spray guns?
if the area is underneath or between the internal and external panels POR15 seems to be used, what type of POr15 as their website lists a few.
Any help would be great,
Cheers guys
#182
_mikecatts_
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Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:14 AM
Hi Mark..
Im dont know a real lot about the rust converters.. Im cutting out as much rust as I can get too..
I use a wire wheel and a sandblaster.. the wire wheel is for stripping the paint back.. and I sandblast the rusty areas clean..
I use The POR15 rust paint..
You MUST use their marine clean and metal ready as per instructions.. Its worth doing properly as once its on, its on.. You can use the POR 15 everyware.. If painting over, You use their primer to go over the POR 15.. Then paint as wanted.
With etching.. Im just using a cheap undercoat/primer spay can as I go.. When ALL the rust is done..Ill take back to metal and etch prime properly,, (still not to sure which one) then undercoat..
Im dont know a real lot about the rust converters.. Im cutting out as much rust as I can get too..
I use a wire wheel and a sandblaster.. the wire wheel is for stripping the paint back.. and I sandblast the rusty areas clean..
I use The POR15 rust paint..
You MUST use their marine clean and metal ready as per instructions.. Its worth doing properly as once its on, its on.. You can use the POR 15 everyware.. If painting over, You use their primer to go over the POR 15.. Then paint as wanted.
With etching.. Im just using a cheap undercoat/primer spay can as I go.. When ALL the rust is done..Ill take back to metal and etch prime properly,, (still not to sure which one) then undercoat..
#183
_mikecatts_
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Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:03 PM
Hi All....
I did some more today.
I Finnished welding on the LH sill end.. All done.. I played with the LH window cowl area.. I have to get this done so I can POR 15 the lot.. I made a few new pieces..
I wasnt happy with the inner cowl piece (windshield inner closing) that was going in.. So I made a plug and dollied a new one.. Wasnt too hard.. Spotted 2x 1.2mm pieces together.. Cut out he shape, Spot welded to a 2mm plate.. Made a new cowl inner piece out 0f .8mm, then lightly spotted to the plug.. Then dollied it together on my piece of railway that Im using as an anvil... Worked out real well...
Bent to fit, some light dollying to fit to door frame, Panel bonded in place. When dry Ill finnish welding on, then POR 15 the whole area..
I POR 15ed right up inside the window frame area.. I used a long nozzled spray gun to clean and paint.. It got in there all right
I had to do this first so I can seam seal the window cowl repair piece before welding on..
The copper colour you see is U-POL #2 weld through primer.. I ran out of the Worth brand and its a head ache to get, so I tried this.. It seems to be better as it doesnt spatter when initially welding..The weld takes to it better.. When Im not panel bonding panels/seam's together,, Im using weld through primer to protect.. Then Ill cavity wax inside when done..
I sand blasted the door inner sill/ inside rear guard and everyware else im going to POR 15.. Ill do that tomm..
Getting there..
I did some more today.
I Finnished welding on the LH sill end.. All done.. I played with the LH window cowl area.. I have to get this done so I can POR 15 the lot.. I made a few new pieces..
I wasnt happy with the inner cowl piece (windshield inner closing) that was going in.. So I made a plug and dollied a new one.. Wasnt too hard.. Spotted 2x 1.2mm pieces together.. Cut out he shape, Spot welded to a 2mm plate.. Made a new cowl inner piece out 0f .8mm, then lightly spotted to the plug.. Then dollied it together on my piece of railway that Im using as an anvil... Worked out real well...
Bent to fit, some light dollying to fit to door frame, Panel bonded in place. When dry Ill finnish welding on, then POR 15 the whole area..
I POR 15ed right up inside the window frame area.. I used a long nozzled spray gun to clean and paint.. It got in there all right
I had to do this first so I can seam seal the window cowl repair piece before welding on..The copper colour you see is U-POL #2 weld through primer.. I ran out of the Worth brand and its a head ache to get, so I tried this.. It seems to be better as it doesnt spatter when initially welding..The weld takes to it better.. When Im not panel bonding panels/seam's together,, Im using weld through primer to protect.. Then Ill cavity wax inside when done..
I sand blasted the door inner sill/ inside rear guard and everyware else im going to POR 15.. Ill do that tomm..
Getting there..
#184
_mikecatts_
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Posted 17 August 2012 - 07:43 PM
Hi all...
Its a wet, windy cold day here in Adelaide.. Winters nearly over, and so is the rust..
I POR 15ed the LH inner sill, inside the rear inner guard, rear LH inside wheel arch, behind both window drip rails, the sill panel, and the LH boot floor guard inside area. All done and no more rust will come back..
Im happy.
I tell you what.. I reacon I got more on me than on the car.. It was tricky getting up high inside the guard area, lying on the floor. Lucky I have a long reach spary gun and heaps of LONG handled brushes... The hardest part was cleaning everything.. I used a high preasure water gun to clean off the Marine clean/Metal ready.. I had to get insome bits with a scrubbing brush.. My hands are cut to bits.. I blew down with high pressure air.. then I used a decent paint stripping gun to heat the damp areas up to evaporate the water, plus 2 x 500 watt lights inside the car to heat.. Worked real well.. Got it dry easy.. And kept me warm too....
Thats the only thing wrong with the POR 15 rust sytem.. The cleaning with water.. It takes ages. But once its done, its done..
l.. Next week the sill goes on.. Then move on..
Have a good weekend all.
Its a wet, windy cold day here in Adelaide.. Winters nearly over, and so is the rust..
I POR 15ed the LH inner sill, inside the rear inner guard, rear LH inside wheel arch, behind both window drip rails, the sill panel, and the LH boot floor guard inside area. All done and no more rust will come back..
Im happy.
I tell you what.. I reacon I got more on me than on the car.. It was tricky getting up high inside the guard area, lying on the floor. Lucky I have a long reach spary gun and heaps of LONG handled brushes... The hardest part was cleaning everything.. I used a high preasure water gun to clean off the Marine clean/Metal ready.. I had to get insome bits with a scrubbing brush.. My hands are cut to bits.. I blew down with high pressure air.. then I used a decent paint stripping gun to heat the damp areas up to evaporate the water, plus 2 x 500 watt lights inside the car to heat.. Worked real well.. Got it dry easy.. And kept me warm too...
.Thats the only thing wrong with the POR 15 rust sytem.. The cleaning with water.. It takes ages. But once its done, its done..
l.. Next week the sill goes on.. Then move on..
Have a good weekend all.
#185
Indy Orange
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Posted 17 August 2012 - 11:25 PM
Coming along well Mike,looking good,i will have to do this myself one day on my LC.
#186
Ice
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Posted 17 August 2012 - 11:37 PM
You should change your name to the metal man mike i cant believe the work your doing to this xu1 its got me buggered how you do it keep up the good work like i said before cant wait to see this one with colour on it
cheers gene
cheers gene
#187
_mikecatts_
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Posted 18 August 2012 - 07:34 AM
Hi guys... Im up early... Ta for the words... Its a challenge.. I recharge myself with a nice double shot of Arabecan coffee... It does the job and keeps me going..
Yes the POR 15 is a job. Its worth the effort. I had a look at the job and Im not too happy with some of the LH sill repairs.. Ill redo before continuing.
I do like to putter about in the shed. Im good with my hands.
Im thinking of making and selling some of the rust replacement panels Ive made.. Ive keept all the plugs.. Might do If the interest is there.. They cant be bought. I tell you what we do need,, The inner sill panels.. It seems every torana has rust here..
Mike
Yes the POR 15 is a job. Its worth the effort. I had a look at the job and Im not too happy with some of the LH sill repairs.. Ill redo before continuing.
I do like to putter about in the shed. Im good with my hands.
Im thinking of making and selling some of the rust replacement panels Ive made.. Ive keept all the plugs.. Might do If the interest is there.. They cant be bought. I tell you what we do need,, The inner sill panels.. It seems every torana has rust here..
Mike
#188
308 Sunbird
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Posted 18 August 2012 - 08:45 AM
This thing is gunna be more water tight than a submarine Mike- well done.
#189
_threeblindmice_
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Posted 18 August 2012 - 11:56 AM
Truly amazing , fantastic work , and thread !
#190
_mikecatts_
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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:29 PM
This thing is gunna be more water tight than a submarine Mike- well done.
Thats the idea
Truly amazing , fantastic work , and thread !
Thanks...
#191
_mikecatts_
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Posted 20 August 2012 - 07:50 PM
Hi all.... Im back after a great weekend..
I got stuck into the LH window cowl..I panel bonded and seam sealed at the same time.. All on and water tight.. I also attached the bottom of the door thingy that came off to fix the A-pillar. Everythings tacked in place, waiting for the panel bond/seam sealer to dry, Then fiinsh welding.. Ill be doing that nice and slow so not to heat up/burn the glues/ POR 15..
I also fixed the gap between the top of the RH door an A-pillar.. I wasnt happy with the gap, I didnt pay attention when doing the cowl.. Silly me, I learned which is the main thing.. The LH side is perfect.
I plug welded/panel bonded a plate in place to make the gap smaller, when dry Ill weld the edge the lead fill.. You wont even know and Ill be happy.. It would of bugged me other wise.. Just being fussy..
I managed to get one of the front ends that I have found on the weekend..
Its an LC wanting to be an LJ, They put on a LJ front nose cone and tried to make the dash an LJ... Dont know why.. Anyway.. It has heaps of surface rust.. Being from near the sea.. No holes, its solid.. Im going to pull apart and see if I can use the radiator support panel and beaver.. If its crap.. Ill get the other one which is heaps better.. I wanted to do this one first as Its in worse condition, out of curiosity just to see what its like.. Its a GTR front end.. No tags.... so dont ask please..
Until tommorrow.
Mike
I got stuck into the LH window cowl..I panel bonded and seam sealed at the same time.. All on and water tight.. I also attached the bottom of the door thingy that came off to fix the A-pillar. Everythings tacked in place, waiting for the panel bond/seam sealer to dry, Then fiinsh welding.. Ill be doing that nice and slow so not to heat up/burn the glues/ POR 15..
I also fixed the gap between the top of the RH door an A-pillar.. I wasnt happy with the gap, I didnt pay attention when doing the cowl.. Silly me, I learned which is the main thing.. The LH side is perfect.
I plug welded/panel bonded a plate in place to make the gap smaller, when dry Ill weld the edge the lead fill.. You wont even know and Ill be happy.. It would of bugged me other wise.. Just being fussy..
I managed to get one of the front ends that I have found on the weekend..
Its an LC wanting to be an LJ, They put on a LJ front nose cone and tried to make the dash an LJ... Dont know why.. Anyway.. It has heaps of surface rust.. Being from near the sea.. No holes, its solid.. Im going to pull apart and see if I can use the radiator support panel and beaver.. If its crap.. Ill get the other one which is heaps better.. I wanted to do this one first as Its in worse condition, out of curiosity just to see what its like.. Its a GTR front end.. No tags.... so dont ask please..
Until tommorrow.
Mike
#192
_mikecatts_
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Posted 22 August 2012 - 05:31 PM
Hi all...
I finally have the LH door sill back on.. Looks good, nice and straight and best of all, water tight.... Heaps better than rust..
Its panel bonded, tacked in place.. I will wait untill its dry then spot weld...
My little china man
I finally have the LH door sill back on.. Looks good, nice and straight and best of all, water tight.... Heaps better than rust..
Its panel bonded, tacked in place.. I will wait untill its dry then spot weld...
My little china man
#193
_BARRY JACKPOT_
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Posted 22 August 2012 - 06:38 PM
Awesome guard dogs reds, not like my Dane mastiff cross, in the dictionary under mongoloid there's a photo of her
#194
_mikecatts_
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Posted 22 August 2012 - 07:15 PM
Yep shes alright.. My shadow... The pic is of her very tired. Its a hard life being a dog..Awesome guard dogs reds, not like my Dane mastiff cross, in the dictionary under mongoloid there's a photo of her
#196
_mikecatts_
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Posted 23 August 2012 - 07:48 PM
Hi all...
What a day.. I finaly finnished the LH door sill... It took 3 hours to weld. It was a long weld. I took my time, I know if I didnt get it too hot.. The POR 15 stays on, It comes off where the blue heat ring stops. I also under coated the weld areas with weld through primer before POR 15.., Just to make sure.. Its all done now.. Ill get inside and cover the welds somehow.. Thinking my long nozzle spray gun and some epoxy rust paint??? It will stick to the new welds.. Ill then tip the car on its back and fill full of cavity wax untill it runs out.. Ill do that for both sides.. That will stop any rust forming..
The next time I do a sill panel, if there ever is a next time,, Ill do it like I did the RH one.. A lot easier and better for resisting rust as it doesnt get welded on the car, Just joined at the seams and the 2 ends.. Less welds, less exposed metal.
Ill take my time grinding back the weld on the rear door to wheel arch area.. Dont want it to warp after taking so much care while welding. Its very straight. Ill lead fill as well.. Im happy. The gaps are all good. the lines are straight, every thing lines up, The doors open/close easy.. Its the best I can do..
The only thing I dont like, it will get fixed when I put the proper hinge pins in, is that the left hand door is sitting high by 2-3mm.. Im hoping it will drop with the weight of the windows etc. If not, Ill get the "hinge" bender gadget/thingy and fix it that way.. Other than that, alls good.
Guys, The car is sooo close to being rust free, Just the bottom A-arm mounts and replace the front radiator support/beaver and its ALL DONE.. ... Im stoked.. Started late April, If I decide to use the second hand support or buy a new one, either way. It will be finnished by the end of September, ready for paint..
Ill have a break before I paint it.. I have to do some renovations on my Girls house.. Then The weather should be warm enough for a full-on painting session..
next time
Mike
Quick note.. The 75mm tube Is welded from front to centre brace's and rods to main chassis rails, to make sure it doesnt move when I take off the radiator support and help to line-up when I put the new one on.. Its all braced and square. Thought you'd like to know as it looks odd..
What a day.. I finaly finnished the LH door sill... It took 3 hours to weld. It was a long weld. I took my time, I know if I didnt get it too hot.. The POR 15 stays on, It comes off where the blue heat ring stops. I also under coated the weld areas with weld through primer before POR 15.., Just to make sure.. Its all done now.. Ill get inside and cover the welds somehow.. Thinking my long nozzle spray gun and some epoxy rust paint??? It will stick to the new welds.. Ill then tip the car on its back and fill full of cavity wax untill it runs out.. Ill do that for both sides.. That will stop any rust forming..
The next time I do a sill panel, if there ever is a next time,, Ill do it like I did the RH one.. A lot easier and better for resisting rust as it doesnt get welded on the car, Just joined at the seams and the 2 ends.. Less welds, less exposed metal.
Ill take my time grinding back the weld on the rear door to wheel arch area.. Dont want it to warp after taking so much care while welding. Its very straight. Ill lead fill as well.. Im happy. The gaps are all good. the lines are straight, every thing lines up, The doors open/close easy.. Its the best I can do..
The only thing I dont like, it will get fixed when I put the proper hinge pins in, is that the left hand door is sitting high by 2-3mm.. Im hoping it will drop with the weight of the windows etc. If not, Ill get the "hinge" bender gadget/thingy
and fix it that way.. Other than that, alls good.Guys, The car is sooo close to being rust free, Just the bottom A-arm mounts and replace the front radiator support/beaver and its ALL DONE..
... Im stoked.. Started late April, If I decide to use the second hand support or buy a new one, either way. It will be finnished by the end of September, ready for paint..Ill have a break before I paint it.. I have to do some renovations on my Girls house.. Then The weather should be warm enough for a full-on painting session..
next time
Mike
Quick note.. The 75mm tube Is welded from front to centre brace's and rods to main chassis rails, to make sure it doesnt move when I take off the radiator support and help to line-up when I put the new one on.. Its all braced and square. Thought you'd like to know as it looks odd..
Edited by mikecatts, 23 August 2012 - 07:55 PM.
#197
_mikecatts_
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Posted 25 August 2012 - 12:20 AM
Hi all... Fridays here..
What a week... Glad its over..
I cleaned up the welds and lead filled the LH sill panel area today.... Having a look at it, you wouldnt even know it was done... Theres a couple of little marks.. They will go with the high fill primer.
I managed to paint strip/etch prime a little area as well.. I just had to play with some paint, any paint.. The welding is gettint too me...
Taking off the old paint/bog.. Its a bit of a mess, theres been a few dings/repairs in its life..
Lucky I met the panel guy.. He came over and said "its easy to fix"..
I offered to put it on his trailer for him to take home and do... He said he will do my panel work if I do some repairs on his LJ 2 door that he wants to keep.. I said "which one"... And its the dreaded A-pillars, as he has never done any before and mine worked out OK.. Maybee I said, its a shit/time consuming job.. He replied "and what do you think taking the dents out is?"... I couldnt argue with that..
He likes my welds and my attention to detail. That felt good when he said that..
Any way. I was scraping back some of the crap thats under the car.. I discovered that it was painted Yellow at some time..
Was painted over the factory over spray, under the heavy underbody paint.. And where its painted, It would of had the rear arms off to get there.. Not just a bodgy car yard job, leave every thing on and spray/bog around it. Like what they did to the rest of the car.
Maybee those missing two years from 1971-1973. It was yellow at one stage.. Makes you wonder...
Im having a break from the car this weekend and taking it easy..
next time
Mike
What a week... Glad its over..
I cleaned up the welds and lead filled the LH sill panel area today.... Having a look at it, you wouldnt even know it was done... Theres a couple of little marks.. They will go with the high fill primer.
I managed to paint strip/etch prime a little area as well.. I just had to play with some paint, any paint.. The welding is gettint too me...
Taking off the old paint/bog.. Its a bit of a mess, theres been a few dings/repairs in its life..
Lucky I met the panel guy.. He came over and said "its easy to fix"..
I offered to put it on his trailer for him to take home and do... He said he will do my panel work if I do some repairs on his LJ 2 door that he wants to keep.. I said "which one"... And its the dreaded A-pillars, as he has never done any before and mine worked out OK.. Maybee I said, its a shit/time consuming job.. He replied "and what do you think taking the dents out is?"... I couldnt argue with that..
He likes my welds and my attention to detail. That felt good when he said that..
Any way. I was scraping back some of the crap thats under the car.. I discovered that it was painted Yellow at some time..
Was painted over the factory over spray, under the heavy underbody paint.. And where its painted, It would of had the rear arms off to get there.. Not just a bodgy car yard job, leave every thing on and spray/bog around it. Like what they did to the rest of the car.
Maybee those missing two years from 1971-1973. It was yellow at one stage.. Makes you wonder...
Im having a break from the car this weekend and taking it easy..
next time
Mike
#198
_mikecatts_
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Posted 28 August 2012 - 07:14 PM
Hi all...
I have spent the last couple of days cleaning the under body area.. What a messy, shity job...
I have to fix a few rust holes in the floor and chassis support, plus all the extra holes drliied for items over the years. Expecially around the console area... Then Ill POR 15 the whole area.. Im thinking of spraying it the factory satin black colour.. The same as the boot/engine bay??? Any thoughts..
After cleaning.. I revealed another odd bolt..I assume its for the roll bar?? Theres 3 extra bolts/plates on both sides.. Im thinking the bar went through the rear parcel shelf, attached to the boot floor.. I have seen pics early LC's done this way..
You can now clearly see the extra rear brake cable bracket and how one is braced.. They have been bent and knocked back in shape a few times.. Why would there be and extra brake cable bracket??? Anyone?
There also seems to be 4 extra factory holes in the rear floor area..They were covered over with the factory black sikaflex stuff.. I want to weld up. Can I? What are they for ?
Oh.. by the way..I found heaps of yellow paint under the crap, It was on top of the factory red overspray.. I cant wait untill I do my historic car search.. It might turn up something nice for me..
Mike
I have spent the last couple of days cleaning the under body area.. What a messy, shity job...
I have to fix a few rust holes in the floor and chassis support, plus all the extra holes drliied for items over the years. Expecially around the console area... Then Ill POR 15 the whole area.. Im thinking of spraying it the factory satin black colour.. The same as the boot/engine bay??? Any thoughts..
After cleaning.. I revealed another odd bolt..I assume its for the roll bar?? Theres 3 extra bolts/plates on both sides.. Im thinking the bar went through the rear parcel shelf, attached to the boot floor.. I have seen pics early LC's done this way..
You can now clearly see the extra rear brake cable bracket and how one is braced.. They have been bent and knocked back in shape a few times.. Why would there be and extra brake cable bracket??? Anyone?
There also seems to be 4 extra factory holes in the rear floor area..They were covered over with the factory black sikaflex stuff.. I want to weld up. Can I? What are they for ?
Oh.. by the way..I found heaps of yellow paint under the crap, It was on top of the factory red overspray.. I cant wait untill I do my historic car search.. It might turn up something nice for me..
Mike
Edited by mikecatts, 28 August 2012 - 07:18 PM.
#199
_mikecatts_
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Posted 30 August 2012 - 08:11 PM
Hi all....
I got around to fixing/rust proofing inside the RH front rear A-arm support..
What a mess.. It was full of greasy smelly crap.. Ide like to do the whole chassis rail as I reacon its full of crap.. It wont rust as its oily goo/shit/muck and stinks, I just hate the thought of it being there.. You would of thought they would of sealed the chassis rails or made out of box section to stop this filling up with shit!!!!
While I was there I decided to beef it up a bit.. They were bent and caved in.. So I thought to make them stronger internaly with some pieces of 2mm Galv sheet.... After sanblasting and fixing some small rust spots.. I bent a 2mm plate for the bottom and made some gussets for the inside. Welded them to the floor, and ALL sides.
I put a 2.5 mm piece of tube steel in line with the bolt hole to make even stronger/keep out some gunk... A bit over kill, it wont bend/cave in again.. POR 15 the lot. Will cover and finnish tomm.
Going to replace a largeish section of the RH floor as it has way too many rust holes.. I cut a piece from the donor car, made to fit.. Will weld in tomm..
Im debating weather to open the LH floor up to clean inside the LH chassis rail as well.. I assume its as bad.. It hasnt rusted right through yet!!!! Ill think about it..
Then I can Paint under the car..
ALL the rust is gone in the chassis after I do the floor.. Yippee... A little spot or 2 in the guards, and thats it..
I got around to fixing/rust proofing inside the RH front rear A-arm support..
What a mess.. It was full of greasy smelly crap.. Ide like to do the whole chassis rail as I reacon its full of crap.. It wont rust as its oily goo/shit/muck and stinks, I just hate the thought of it being there.. You would of thought they would of sealed the chassis rails or made out of box section to stop this filling up with shit!!!!
While I was there I decided to beef it up a bit.. They were bent and caved in.. So I thought to make them stronger internaly with some pieces of 2mm Galv sheet.... After sanblasting and fixing some small rust spots.. I bent a 2mm plate for the bottom and made some gussets for the inside. Welded them to the floor, and ALL sides.
I put a 2.5 mm piece of tube steel in line with the bolt hole to make even stronger/keep out some gunk... A bit over kill, it wont bend/cave in again.. POR 15 the lot. Will cover and finnish tomm.
Going to replace a largeish section of the RH floor as it has way too many rust holes.. I cut a piece from the donor car, made to fit.. Will weld in tomm..
Im debating weather to open the LH floor up to clean inside the LH chassis rail as well.. I assume its as bad.. It hasnt rusted right through yet!!!! Ill think about it..
Then I can Paint under the car..
ALL the rust is gone in the chassis after I do the floor.. Yippee... A little spot or 2 in the guards, and thats it..
Edited by mikecatts, 30 August 2012 - 08:12 PM.
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