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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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#226 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 08:44 PM

Now I feel stupid for not knowing earlier. I'm guessing I take off the metal brackets that clamp the rubber right?

Do you use spacers?

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#227 debkar

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Location:Townsville QLD
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Posted 27 November 2013 - 07:48 AM

Hi Jacob,

That's what I do,

Regards Simon

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#228 stevemc32

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 09:29 AM

Check out this post in Eric's build for info on the crossmember mounting options.

Our LC 4 door freshen up Post 36

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#229 _judgelj_

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 06:00 PM

Ive seen that before but never quite noticed the removal of the insulators. Thought it says id need an extra spacer where the gearbox mount bolts to the cross member.

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#230 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 11:42 AM

Sooo... SHE LIVES.

Fired first time, ran in the cam. Nearly scolded everyone when my heater hose bungs failed, not to mention the radiator cap, but anyway... Just have to re wire my 12v feed the coil as the way it is now, car doesn't turn off lol. Apart from that went well, timing was pretty spot on, just have to get a light on it to tune it right. Little bit of a cooling issue even with fans, but it's hard to troubleshoot as I can't get my temp gauge working.

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#231 debkar

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 01:11 PM

Great news, always good feeling first fire up, well done

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#232 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 02:35 PM

Thanks mate. Was pretty awesome, just have to iron out some issues and should be good to go.

Pretty pissed that I broke a bleeder on a brake caliper then snapped the easy out inside. Caliper is probably a throw out now, bit of a set back

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#233 _LHSL308_

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 02:48 PM

Just message Datto, I am sure he can help you in getting that out and saving the caliper. Good to hear your almost there mate.

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#234 Rockoz

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 03:23 PM

Got a mig?

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#235 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 December 2013 - 07:26 PM

Thanks mate, glad I'm almost there too. Would have been driving had it not been for the brakes. Also spent a few hours trying to work out a wiring issue that turned out to be the dome light shorting on the roof, thank god that's over.

Yeah I do, tried welding a washer and nut on and kept snapping. Besides I went at it that hard with carbide drill bits and I think I anhilated the actual caliper. Will perhapse try take it past the brake shop maybe they can drill and oversize the hole?

Apart from that have to figure out why my alternator is no longer charging. Used to work but since taking it out and putting it back in it doesn't work. Once I sort that just have to throw on the timing light and wire in my dash. Having trouble with the dash can't get readings when bench testing gauges don't know if it's the senders or the gauges or both.

Cheers

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#236 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 December 2013 - 09:00 PM

Caliper is in the brake shop they are trying to see if they can re sleeve the nipple seat.

Standard plug, might not cut it off, just splice into the existing wires...

Does anyone know what this braided wire is for? Runs into the back of the ignition barrel, its braided.

12v for coil

Thermatic temp switch

Clutch rod fouls on the steering. Need ideas for rectification. Can i drill the hole for the clevis further down from the original hole? Will this change the pivoting angle too much?

Have to lengthen new accelerator pedal.

Edited by judgelj, 02 December 2013 - 09:10 PM.

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#237 Bullet

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Name:Mark
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Car:LC 2 Door S
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Posted 03 December 2013 - 04:01 PM

Hey Judge, coming along nicely, almost there, but you've got me worried. If your having trouble with this fouling on that and things not lining up by putting a 6 back in, what hope do I have trying to drop a chev in ha ha.
I'll have to make sure the beer fridge is well stocked.

Cheers bullet

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#238 S pack

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 04:26 PM

Looks like a resistance wire for power supply to ignition coil with points distributor.

Has the original pink resistance wire been replaced?

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#239 _judgelj_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 06:52 PM

Bullet, my LC having a chev in it is what caused the problems in the first place. Oh well, looks like ill just have to put a V8 back in haha.

Yeah I think you're right. I had a better look on the car and wiring diagram and it runs to the positive side of the coil along side the yellow power supply. Don't know why it's gotten so hot though, a bit worrying...

Spent all day today cleaning up all the cars wiring, but I'm pretty much happy to be done. Just have to start making up a harness for the dash and hopefully get it in tomorrow, I'm drilling all the standard bulb holders and soldering wires to one of the tabs to power them as I can't find any HT/G ones. I just want this bloody car to drive!!! I wonder if a bad earth is what's causing my temp sender not to work...

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#240 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 07:59 PM

Your dodgy looing wiring makes my dodgy wiring look good, which makes me happy

I have no idea why the clutch would be hitting though, unless the steering has been moved over for some kinda faggoty veeate conversion.

Cheers.

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#241 _judgelj_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:10 PM

Hey leave my wiring out of it, its actually quite good. Only problem is i have some sort of obsession with not cutting long wire so i just roll them up.

And yea, manly V8

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#242 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:37 PM

If by manly you mean being penetrated up the butt by several blokes called Jene then i suppose....

And yeah, i have to make fun of your wiring because people make fun of my wiring which is almost as bad

Cheers.

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#243 _judgelj_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:40 PM

Well i dont know what your wiring looks like but if its like mine then it must be good!

To me difference between bad wiring good wiring is tape and heat shrink.

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#244 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:45 PM

Funny thing about my apparently "bad" wiring is no one who actually knows anything about wiring will actually tell me what i did wrong, they just shake there head and go "hmmmm" and then walk away?

How the frOck am i supposed to better the job that i displayed so proudly thinking i had done wonderfull work if those who know better dont/wont comment?

Must be one of those dark arts, im more than happy to share paint advice, but sparky's dont seem keen on doing the same?

frOcks me sideways. Your wiring is probably fine for all i know.

Cheers.

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#245 stevemc32

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:58 PM

If the electrons get to where you wanted them to go and then get back again your wiring is good. The dark art is just making sure they're not getting anywhere they shouldn't.

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#246 hanra

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 09:07 PM

Looks like a resistance wire for power supply to ignition coil with points distributor.
Has the original pink resistance wire been replaced?

^Yep.

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#247 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 09:26 PM

If the electrons get to where you wanted them to go and then get back again your wiring is good. The dark art is just making sure they're not getting anywhere they shouldn't.

I LIKE YOU!!!

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#248 _judgelj_

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 09:47 PM

Wonder why it got so hot? Not only did it melt there but a few spots down the line. Worrying.

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#249 hanra

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Posted 03 December 2013 - 10:01 PM

Because it measures about 1.5ohms from memory. It is probably more effective at dissipating heat them a ballast resistor as it stretches over a longer area. There is a lot of current going through that wire, especially at low rpms because the primary winding has more time to fully charge and saturate.

Edited by hanra, 03 December 2013 - 10:05 PM.