To tell you the truth I didn't know it was there, it was crimped into a U terminal with the power wire and heat shrunk over the top. Do I even need the original power wire for the points now that I have 12V running separately?
LC S Coupe Rebuild
Started by
_judgelj_
, May 27 2012 12:34 AM
674 replies to this topic
#252
S pack
-
- Members
-
- 15,723 posts
Scrivet Counter
- Name:Dave
- Location:Luggage Point
- Car:73 LJ
- Joined: 25-January 10
Posted 04 December 2013 - 08:23 AM
To tell you the truth I didn't know it was there, it was crimped into a U terminal with the power wire and heat shrunk over the top. Do I even need the original power wire for the points now that I have 12V running separately?
No, disconnect the resistance wire from the coil wiring connector as it is still live when the engine is running.
#254
gtrboyy
-
- Members
-
- 3,209 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Location:SYDNEY,NSW
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 04 December 2013 - 04:20 PM
Has steering been moved back over to standard position after v8 was taken out?
Looks like it has lh steering knuckle too.If auto wouldn't matter but converting to manual it probably would.
As for wiring,if ammeter wires wasn't hooked up then no circuit to charge(Assuming it's gtr dash/gauges)
For other wires trace them from the lc ignition switch & compare to wiring diagram...shit looks like it's been changed around a bit under there.
#255
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 December 2013 - 04:34 PM
No, it hasn't gone back to its original position and it's has two knuckles. So this is what's causing the problem but only when I turn. Was thinking to drill further away from the original clevis pivoting point so the rod sits higher, but it might make the pedal harder.
As for the wiring it had a standard dash put back in so there was a circuit for the alternator, now I have to re wire it for the xu1 dash. The wiring diagram shows a wire going to the alternator (for GEN light) and also a power wire from the same circuit as the gauge power. Can I just loops the gen light power from the other lights?
As for the wiring it had a standard dash put back in so there was a circuit for the alternator, now I have to re wire it for the xu1 dash. The wiring diagram shows a wire going to the alternator (for GEN light) and also a power wire from the same circuit as the gauge power. Can I just loops the gen light power from the other lights?
#256
S pack
-
- Members
-
- 15,723 posts
Scrivet Counter
- Name:Dave
- Location:Luggage Point
- Car:73 LJ
- Joined: 25-January 10
Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:52 PM
What is the yellow wire for?
Jacob, the yellow wire to the coil is for 12v during cranking only with a points dizzy. For the HEI dizzy you can bridge the pink resistance wire connector to the yellow wire at the ignition switch, the yellow wire will then supply 12v at start up and 12v when engine is running.
#257
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:52 PM
Thanks for that Dave, since ive run seperate cranking 12V to the coil. can i remove the yellow wire and resistance wire entirely?
Ripped out the radiator today, against my better judgement. Need to get it checked and cover all bases before i look into the over heating further. I have a funny feeling my two thermos are in adequate, but they couldnt possibly be less efficient as apposed to the mechanical fan?
Cut and shut my new accelerator pedal. This will stop the pedal from sitting 3 inches below the clutch and brake.
Dash station
Edited by judgelj, 04 December 2013 - 07:55 PM.
#258
S pack
-
- Members
-
- 15,723 posts
Scrivet Counter
- Name:Dave
- Location:Luggage Point
- Car:73 LJ
- Joined: 25-January 10
Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:55 PM
No, it hasn't gone back to its original position and it's has two knuckles. So this is what's causing the problem but only when I turn. Was thinking to drill further away from the original clevis pivoting point so the rod sits higher, but it might make the pedal harder.
Cable clutch would have been the better option.
#259
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 December 2013 - 08:42 PM
If i was thinking about cable i would just go hydraulic. For now ill have to sort something out with the rat trap as i dont have the parts and i cant spend too much now that im out of work.
#260
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 December 2013 - 08:43 PM
The off the shelf hydraulic setups are shithouse.
Cable is far better.
#261
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:11 PM
Wouldn't waste my time with cable, wouldn't buy off the shelf either will make my own kit when the time comes.
#262
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
-
- Guests
Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:12 PM
Thats alright then.
That said, i used to rock a modded commy cable in my LJ.
Was very, very nice.
Cheers.
#263
gtrboyy
-
- Members
-
- 3,209 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Location:SYDNEY,NSW
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 04 December 2013 - 09:21 PM
True that ^^^^^
Had rat trap with a wild six,felt hard/heavy with upgraded clutches & then had hydraulic clutch when converting to v8..not much feel to it at all,looked ugly & everything had to be modded to just get it to acceptable level.
Both setup weren't too bad overall but cable like later torries have had better feel.
Stay with what you have just dont go heavy pressure plate.
Thermofans..had a 16in baco fan with early commo radiator in mine,worked great but needed upgraded 85a alternator as fans chewed power for pissy 55a alternator already had lol.
With fixed fan,wont do much without shroud when you have baby radiator.
#264
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 December 2013 - 12:07 PM
Well I'm surprised you didn't mind the rat trap too much. Most people hate them but to be honest mine wasn't too bad in the brief time I had the car driving. I think I'll get it working and stick with it for now. Just wondering if I can move then clevis bracket and change the pivot point of the rod to clear the steering without changing the feel too much.
As for the radiator just got word back on mine and was pretty stuffed. Original core, blocked, already patched up and couldn't be cleaned. Ordered a new one so hopefully that will fix my cooling without the need for better fans. I have twin twelves but they are a bit pissy so could be part of the problem. Problem wight alloy is it is too thick and won't clear my pulleys and will not recess into the radiator support as it is also too wide. I'm pretty limited to a 30mm copper unless I can get standard core in alloy. Is copper going to be a lot less effective in cooling as applied to alloy?
As for the radiator just got word back on mine and was pretty stuffed. Original core, blocked, already patched up and couldn't be cleaned. Ordered a new one so hopefully that will fix my cooling without the need for better fans. I have twin twelves but they are a bit pissy so could be part of the problem. Problem wight alloy is it is too thick and won't clear my pulleys and will not recess into the radiator support as it is also too wide. I'm pretty limited to a 30mm copper unless I can get standard core in alloy. Is copper going to be a lot less effective in cooling as applied to alloy?
#265
S pack
-
- Members
-
- 15,723 posts
Scrivet Counter
- Name:Dave
- Location:Luggage Point
- Car:73 LJ
- Joined: 25-January 10
Posted 05 December 2013 - 05:53 PM
As for the radiator just got word back on mine and was pretty stuffed. Original core, blocked, already patched up and couldn't be cleaned. Ordered a new one so hopefully that will fix my cooling without the need for better fans. I have twin twelves but they are a bit pissy so could be part of the problem. Problem wight alloy is it is too thick and won't clear my pulleys and will not recess into the radiator support as it is also too wide. I'm pretty limited to a 30mm copper unless I can get standard core in alloy. Is copper going to be a lot less effective in cooling as applied to alloy?
Jacob, I'm running a single 12" thermo fan as well as the XU1 engjne fan on my LJ and they just keep the temps under control in heavy traffic.
Copper and aluminium are both very good transmitters of heat so I don't think there would be much noticeable difference in cooling effectiveness between the different cores.
#266
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 December 2013 - 07:12 PM
Unfortunately i'm limited to cooling in front of the radiator (clearance issues), so if this new radiator doesnt help me out, i dont know what ill do. If it doesnt work ill either buy beefier thermos, or have a custom 3 core made less than 560mm so it can be recessed inbetween the raised sections of the radiator support.
Apart from that, was ripped of twice today. First ended up paying 50% too much for bulb holders to fit in the GTR dash. Narva 49818 are a perfect fit, yet bursons sell them for half the price the auto elecs do. Also had someone pick up my new caliper, only to find that he had sold me half a second hand caliper, and used the other half of the original, when he quoted me for a complete second hander. Not happy
#267
gtrboyy
-
- Members
-
- 3,209 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Location:SYDNEY,NSW
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 06 December 2013 - 04:57 PM
I think changing pivot points might make it feel heavier or awkward...only real issue I had after restoring rat-trap was snapping the balls of the ends of the 'clutch rods' due to heavy pressure plate...modded up one tonner type of thing,still slipped a tad at high revs if going all out through gears up to 4th though was a grunty 202.
I'd rather move steering column back over out of the way..then get modify another bar or shorten/re-adjust the slots with one you have already if there is enough room with current twin knuckle setup.
With a good 'working' radiator,std fan & helper thermofan can't see why it would overheat.
Head isn't ported out or block using oversized pistons?
#268
Rockoz
-
- Members
-
- 4,033 posts
Oh My, Don't you post alot
- Name:Rob
- Location:Cowra NSW
- Joined: 21-September 08
Posted 06 December 2013 - 08:30 PM
Going back a few posts.
Possibility for the coil wire having got hot would be the ignition left on for a long period of time without engine running and points in closed position.
#269
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 06 December 2013 - 10:38 PM
Don't think I'm keen on moving the steering back. If I I don't change the pivot ill just make up a bracket and run the rod slightly bent through a small ball bearing pulley. Got a brand new radiator today, but I don't have a mechanical fan. I have two 12" thermos behind the grill and yes the head has been ported.
And rob it is an electronic dizzy. Im guessing it is because the resistance wire is not designed for use with HEI. I'm also having problem with the last carb pissing fuel all of a sudden. Could the needle have gotten stuck?
Cheers
And rob it is an electronic dizzy. Im guessing it is because the resistance wire is not designed for use with HEI. I'm also having problem with the last carb pissing fuel all of a sudden. Could the needle have gotten stuck?
Cheers
#270
warrenm
View Garage
-
- Members
-
- 2,117 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Central West NSW
- Car:1972 LJ Torana
- Joined: 08-November 05
View Garage
Posted 07 December 2013 - 06:29 AM
Don't think I'm keen on moving the steering back. If I I don't change the pivot ill just make up a bracket and run the rod slightly bent through a small ball bearing pulley. Got a brand new radiator today, but I don't have a mechanical fan. I have two 12" thermos behind the grill and yes the head has been ported.
And rob it is an electronic dizzy. Im guessing it is because the resistance wire is not designed for use with HEI. I'm also having problem with the last carb pissing fuel all of a sudden. Could the needle have gotten stuck?
Cheers
Float level too high.
Maybe foreign object under the needle.
What fuel pressure are you running?
#271
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 December 2013 - 07:49 AM
Straight out of a commy style pump no reg just yet. However no fuel leaks during the entire cam run in period, no fuel leaks in the next two starts to idle. Noticed the leak yet another few days later when I started it and let it idle.
#272
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 December 2013 - 07:52 AM
If i let mine idle for a while it starts to hump fuel out to, but due to the pumps fluctuations if you look at the pressure guage at idle it goes from like 1.5-4psi or so, up down up down up down, and the fuel out of the overflow kinda spurts in time with the fluxuations.... give it a little rev and it evens out at around 2.5 and stops leaking....Might be a similar problem to what you have?
Still wondering how im going to sort that one...
Cheers.
#273
_judgelj_
_judgelj_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 December 2013 - 12:58 PM
Sounds pretty plausible. How are you regulating your fuel?
Haven't really revved mine too much when it leaks I'm a bit worried it will ignite.
Haven't really revved mine too much when it leaks I'm a bit worried it will ignite.
#274
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 December 2013 - 01:54 PM
Aeromotive four port return reg.
Mostly wank factor, you dont need anything that shiny, but it wasnt that expensive, and i liked the fact it saved me from having to run a distribution block.
And its pretty 
Cheers.
#275
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 December 2013 - 01:58 PM
To add to that, i think the reason its pulsating is due to the Edelbrock 140GPH sbc fuel pump i have on it, which is currently a fair overkill.
Everytime it pumps, it frOcking pumps. I cranked it over with the line off to get fuel from the tank to the pump, frOck me you shoulda seen it come out when it made the pump.
When i put the 2" SU's on mine i'll likely go to E-85 and run Holley float bowls, be rid of all of the above issues.
Cheers.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
