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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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674 replies to this topic

#276 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 02:19 PM

I should add, none of this actually helps you.

YOur problem is likely that your putting the full 5psi (from memory, or is it 7?) from the stock late model pump into the carbs.

One of those clicky type fuel pressure regs is the quick nasty and time proven way to solve the issue.

Like this:

http://www.ebay.com....a86a391b&_uhb=1

Or this:

http://www.ebay.com....45eaebf0&_uhb=1

Considering from memory my flash ass one was only like $120 i recon those bits of crap are way overpriced, but, lots of guys use them.

Cheers.

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#277 _judgelj_

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 03:33 PM

Oh how I'd love to run e85. Smart idea saves u running a fuel block.

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#278 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 03:45 PM

E-85 is probably more work than its worth unless you have a combo that needs it.

Doesnt like sitting around etc.

My current combo doesnt really need it, but it will be good for a tester. Then i'll bump the comp up around the 14:1 mark and actually use the shit

Cheers.

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#279 _judgelj_

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 03:59 PM

Well a mate picked up 40kw from e85 so it sounds pretty promising. Only thing is I've seen it cause a bit of damage.

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#280 Bullet

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Name:Mark
Location:Western Vic
Car:LC 2 Door S
Joined: 13-November 12

Posted 07 December 2013 - 04:18 PM

Well a mate picked up 40kw from e85 so it sounds pretty promising. Only thing is I've seen it cause a bit of damage.

Hey Judge, would you mind elaborating a little on what happened to your mates engine,
I'm considering E85 so keen to see cons as well as pro's.

Cheers bullet

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#281 _judgelj_

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 08:36 PM

DJ the pumps output 5 psi but its strange as I should have had the issue from first fire up if the pressure was excessive.

Mark, he had his 2013 WRX tuned with e85 and picked up 40rwkw on the dyno. Also changed the fuel pump and injectors, but still a massive gain. Economy is shit but the fuels cheaper slit works out. Just have to be careful with e85 as its corrosive.

Cheers

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#282 _judgelj_

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Posted 09 December 2013 - 09:30 PM

So got mostly everything knocked off the list including brakes, shocks, wiring, return springs, radiator etc etc. All that is left is to get the dash working correctly, adjust wheel bearings, grease ball joints and sort my clutch rod out. Still need to wire the ammeter, its just that my loom plug is only rated for 20 amps, should i hard wire it instead?

Still having trouble with temp gauge, now that i know my earth is good, im worried its a bad sender, but then again it was brand new. Anyone know the correct tridon part number for the XU1 dash? Were there any variations in senders? Also, was running the engine today and i know i had oil pressure going off the gauge, except my oil filter wasnt heating up so i was worried it wasn't circulating.

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#283 _judgelj_

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Posted 14 December 2013 - 06:44 PM

Never mind, all is well. Sorted every bloody thing except why the dash wont push in enough to screw it in. Pretty happy to say the least, but also tired at the same time!

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#284 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:10 PM

Well the day has come that i can finally say its time for a roadworthy!! Still a few little things to work out. I cant get good brake pressure (air in master/prop valve)??, few flat spots and it's a bit rich (need the tool the balance the carbs), and cant close the drivers door at all with the new rubber (adjustment maybe?). Apart from that im stoked to have fixed the clutch problems and get the dash working completely, also i got around to fixing the very voilent clanking noise that was coming from the alternator. Fixed the fuel pressure issues with a fuel reg and the car starts first time every time!

I must say though it is very difficult to drive, any ideas perhaps? I know the cam makes it a pig, but its hard to get it going without hopping or smelling burnt clutch. Its very easy to get going in reverse, not so easy in 1st...

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#285 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:12 PM

Also cant get the bloody dash to push in far enough to start the screws, any one else encountered this?

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#286 gtrboyy

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 10:40 PM

When it's tuned properly should be much easier to take off at lower revs - less pig-rootin' lol.

Shorter gears help heaps too if used for suburban & city cruising,used to have m20 with 3.90 gears although 3.55 or 3.36 less racey.

Door rubbers sound like common issue with some threads about it on here.

Doors can be hard to close if airtight seal in car,crack window open to see if that helps.

Other thing most common complaint was something about the rubber being too hard or too thick or something.

As for dash when first pulled mine apart couldn't get lower part of dash to seat properly so crack left the clip things just nipped up but still able to move slightly to jiggle dash into place.

One other mistake I made years ago helped to put dash in a lj that been pulled apart for years was to realise screws we were using were too short to grab lol.

Edited by gtrboyy, 15 December 2013 - 10:47 PM.

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#287 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 11:52 PM

Right now it's an m20 with 3.36 so hopefully a tune will help. As for the door rubbers its weird. Passenger side was impossible to close with the old rubber, and drivers never had one. Now, passenger is easy to close and drivers is near impossible. I have to slam it that hard something's going to break, and I don't think it's airtight ness somehow.

I was thinking about what you mentions, might either back off or bend those tab things see if it doesn't help, and yes I'll make sure screw are long enough haha.

Even some tips on how to ride the crutch would be good !

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#288 sibhs

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Name:Martin
Location:Perth
Car:LJ Coupe S
Joined: 27-July 12

Posted 15 December 2013 - 11:53 PM

I had the hard to drive forward but easy in reverse - my drum brakes were binding.

Great job by the way - almost there.

Marty

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#289 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 11:55 PM

Marty you might be right!!!!! We gave the drums a bit off adjusting as a quick fix for handbrake being loose, I didn't even think of that mate thanks heaps!!

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#290 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 09:02 PM

Marty figured out the problem... I switched 1/2 and 3/4 around so 1st is third and 2nd is 4th. Whoops. Makes a lot of sense now.

Also my coil and module shit themselves today, spewing. I think i may have left the ignition on too long a few times, could that of damaged them? Spewin you cant get the stainless bosch coils anymore.

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#291 sibhs

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Name:Martin
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Car:LJ Coupe S
Joined: 27-July 12

Posted 17 December 2013 - 09:33 PM

Marty figured out the problem... I switched 1/2 and 3/4 around so 1st is third and 2nd is 4th. Whoops. Makes a lot of sense now.

Also my coil and module shit themselves today, spewing. I think i may have left the ignition on too long a few times, could that of damaged them? Spewin you cant get the stainless bosch coils anymore.

Hi Jacob,'

Hopefully thats an easy fix. Is that just linkages or do you have to get into gearbox?

Pretty sure that's how you wreak a coil by leaving the ignition on too long.

Marty

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#292 gtrboyy

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:05 PM

It's a learning curve & good thing you found out what it was with shifter/linkages...had that happen on speco twin stick first time it went in my first torrie lol

Are the door rubber hard/solid? They got holes in them so they can compress...some repro's don't so door doesn't close properly or if really bad not close properly ro point feels like something will damage or bend.

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#293 hanra

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Name:Brad
Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:39 PM

Don't you have electronic ignition? If there is no path to ground, then current won't flow through the primary of the coil.

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#294 S pack

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Name:Dave
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Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 18 December 2013 - 06:23 AM

Hi Jacob,'

Hopefully thats an easy fix. Is that just linkages or do you have to get into gearbox?

Pretty sure that's how you wreak a coil by leaving the ignition on too long.

Marty

Just a swap over at the shifter's all that's required. You can see in Jacob's build pic he got them mixed up.

Edited by S pack, 18 December 2013 - 06:24 AM.

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#295 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 08:03 AM

Well I'll have to fix it but I'm used to the reverse pattern now lol. How do I swap then around as the rods won't line up the other way? Do they have to be crossed over one another?

Where does the coil usually earth? Through the dizzy and block? The kill switch is a wire to the coil negative then to ground through a switch. I was told not the earth an electronic ignition through a switch...

If I did fry the coil by leaving the ignition on, why did it happen later on in the track? Coil splurged oil and module shit itself

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#296 Bullet

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Name:Mark
Location:Western Vic
Car:LC 2 Door S
Joined: 13-November 12

Posted 18 December 2013 - 08:26 AM

Marty figured out the problem... I switched 1/2 and 3/4 around so 1st is third and 2nd is 4th. Whoops. Makes a lot of sense now.

Also my coil and module shit themselves today, spewing. I think i may have left the ignition on too long a few times, could that of damaged them? Spewin you cant get the stainless bosch coils anymore.

I mixed up the linkages on my LH years ago. Found out on its maiden voyage right after crashing it into a barbed wire fence,
Was not happy!

Cheers bullet