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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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#301 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 December 2013 - 04:29 PM

Well i think its mostly the fitment not the rubber, it tore through one of the clip holes a little and now the rubber shifts. Is there a spray i can use to soften it and compensate?

Well, car is officially registered. Just a bit pissed off as i have to go back and do some stuffing around to get my custom plates registered, i had to buy standard plates for now. Nothing ever goes to plan. They also wrote the market value for me without me knowing and overcharged me a fair bit. Ive emailed the state revenue office, i wonder if i can get a refund? Seriousness aside i would never have declared the eBay value, and he must have written down what was on the receipt. So apart from the bitter taste of lost money im pretty happy to have gotten it driving. Car behaved and didnt spew any water, so i cant complain. Just havent driven it in heavy traffic yet.

Im pretty happy with the drive, speedo was making a noise so i refitted it to the dash and it fixed it. Pretty used to the reversed shift pattern now so might leave it. No flat spots, but im still going to try and get down the the carb builder this friday as he retires for good this year.

Few pics:

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#302 _j.e.d._

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Posted 23 December 2013 - 06:45 PM

Very nice Jacob - you gotta be happy with that finished result after all the little drama's :clappin: :driving:

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#303 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 December 2013 - 10:32 PM

Yeah it's pretty surreal driving the thing knowing it didn't even have a kframe at one stage

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#304 _judgelj_

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:40 PM

Well got some new spiral core leads and had the headlining fitted. Managed to get away with keeping the front screen in, removed the back one and its made an absolute mess. I discovered that the glue they use is for sealing purposes not to retain the glass, what is a good caulk to use if I find it leaks from now on? I'll also have to reinstall the locking screen after I finish cleaning off all the black glue. Will put up some pics too.

Still have troubles with the breaks biting too low to the floor. There's too much travel in the pedal but when they bite they bite hard. Bled the shit out of them and I'm out of ideas.

Still having trouble after balancing the carbs the car doesn't want to rev out smoothly, seems like a fuel issue.

Also I reset the brake warning switch which turned off the light, but now it won't turn on with handbrake up and I can't find the switch the handbrake toggles to troubleshoot?

Edited by judgelj, 11 January 2014 - 09:44 PM.

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#305 Rockoz

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 11:37 PM

Handbrake switch is on the handbrake mechanism from memory. Bottom rear I think.

Some may disagree but sikaflex is great for sealing windows.

Booster maybe for brakes. Ask Datto. He will have the answer.

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#306 S pack

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:53 AM

Sounds like the booster is missing the reaction disc that sits inside the booster under the end of the front pushrod. A missing reaction disc will cause the touchy pedal.

Also appears you have an LJ master cyl, if your booster is an LC unit then the front pushrod may be too short which could explain the excessive pedal travel.

The h/brake warning switch (if your LC has one, they were a dealer fitted accessory on S models) is mounted to the handbrake front mounting bolt.

Edited by S pack, 12 January 2014 - 01:59 AM.

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#307 _judgelj_

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 11:49 AM

Could anything have fallen off the booster when removed that would cause the pedal to travel so much? When i first had it reco'd the brakes were fine, but that was a before i removed it for the freshen up. Dave your theories make sense, but like i said it was once working so it must be simple. Is the pushrod a screw adjustment?

As for the hansbrake, i could have sworn it had a switch from memory, but wheni was looking i couldnt find it. Also, there were two wires in the wiring harness i made up for the dash, so it must be functioning. I just cant see why it's not working with the handbrake.

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#308 S pack

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:10 PM

You removed the pushrod from the front of the booster to repaint it didn't you? If you did then the reaction disc has either fallen out into the booster shell or come out with the pushrod and fallen on the ground and is now lost.

If you don't have a handbrake switch then the light will not operate when you apply the handbrake.

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#309 _judgelj_

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 07:44 PM

I removed the booster but that's it, I'm sure I didn't touch the pushrods though... Is it a screw adjustment?

As for the handbrake I realise that I'm just trying to find this switch.

Lost the fuel cap today. Are the rares ones pretty close to original?

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#310 S pack

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 12:28 AM

I removed the booster but that's it, I'm sure I didn't touch the pushrods though... Is it a screw adjustment?

As for the handbrake I realise that I'm just trying to find this switch.

Lost the fuel cap today. Are the rares ones pretty close to original?

Apologies Jacob, I see now that I screwed up the meaning of what I was trying to say when I wrote this "If you don't have a handbrake switch then the light will not operate when you apply the handbrake"

Had a look back through your build thread and found you had the booster professionally recoed. When did you first experience the long brake pedal travel?

Was it immediately after the booster was recoed and refitted or have you since removed and refitted the booster again before the pedal travel changed?

The touchy brake application you describe sounds consistent with a missing reaction disc and also without the reaction disc the pushrod will be seated deeper into the booster so will have to travel further to make contact with the m/cyl piston, thereby requiring the brake pedal to be depressed further before the brakes start to apply.

Apply your handbrake, lift the vinyl gaiter on your handbrake lever and take a pic of the area under the lever where it bolts to the tunnel.

Haven't physically checked out the Rares repro fuel caps but they do look pretty good in photos.

Edited by S pack, 13 January 2014 - 12:30 AM.

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#311 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 11:33 AM

Dont be sorry, Dave, always good to converse with you. The pedal issue became apparent immediately after the booster was removed and refitted post reconditioning. So there was a time when it was working well. It is quite possible i did loose something, but i dont remember doing so. What does this reaction disc look like? I thought if anything the pushrod adjustment was out, but i never touched it so its hard to say.

As for the handbrake ill have another look. I remember seeing one before, i just couldnt see it the last time i checked out the handbrake. As well as that there was wiring for a handbrake switch when i installed the dash. If there is a switch present, i wonder why it's not working all of a sudden.

Ill have to buy one of these fuel caps i have no choice, see what happens when you lend your car out to family aha.

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#312 Rockoz

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 11:41 AM

I remember as a kid that you could pick up LC/LJ Torana fuel caps anywhere.

Mainly outside sevice stations.

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#313 hanra

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 11:46 AM

Im also curious to know what the reaction disc looks like... I reckon it could be the issue in my mates HQ.

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#314 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 09:30 PM

Rob do you mean the actual die cast ones with the sloted edge? I bought cheapo temporary one today cost me 5 bucks, doesnt look too bad though!!

Im with hanra. Dont suppose its a small cylindrical spacer type thing? If it is i found it on the floor, drilled the hole out and used it to space the mounting bolt for the passenger seat belt lol.

Anyway forgot to ad these of when Mr Wilson gave it a tune, and the interior. Still have to get up a pic of the headlining.

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#315 Rockoz

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 09:44 PM

Yeah. Lots of original caps years ago. Me and the mates had a collection of them. All engine sizes.

Seemed to be a very common thing to leave them on the roof for some reason.

Tops of the bowsers were good too.

Mine are long gone now.

Along with a car load of LC parts.

Yeah the 5 buck plastic ones fit well. Just dont fill up and accelerate too hard.

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#316 ljv8

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:12 AM

Hey Jacob car looks fantastic and must be a great feeling having it on the road.

Didn't realize John was retiring. What a shame, glad I got him to do my SU's when I did.

All the best in sorting out the remaining gremlins. Start racking up the K's and enjoy her.

Steve

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#317 _judgelj_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:46 AM

Yeah I suppose they're pretty easy to loose, and whilst the lost one was not in the best shape, it was original. And sometimes I actually prefere beaten up over brand new repro, anyone else agree?

Thanks very much mate, it's good to drive it, very surreal. But at the same time it was hard work and headaches so well worth it. But yeah I was surprised johns finishing as well. Did you know he is in his mid 70's? I was shocked! Lucky we got out work done when we did be is definitely the last of his kind.

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#318 ljv8

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 09:28 PM

Mid 70's geez wouldn't have picked it. Guess when you have been at it that long it's probably enough. Too true not many gentlemen left in the industry that lived and breathed Holden 6's from their grey and red beginnings.

Yes lucky us it was money well spent!

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#319 _BARRY JACKPOT_

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 10:27 AM

Got a rare spares one for dad's car looks the goods, it is an LJ though dunno if they're different to LC

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#320 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 07:54 PM

Which one did you get was it the lion twist on? We're they not used for LC?

Yeah it's ok he will be in from time to time to do some tuning here and there for the new owner

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#321 _judgelj_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 09:07 AM

Anyway keen to here from dave. Does the master cylinder usually have a male or female parts on the booster side? The booster has a hole there does it?