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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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#326 S pack

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 11:20 AM

Anyway keen to here from dave. Does the master cylinder usually have a male or female parts on the booster side? The booster has a hole there does it?

Jacob

The m/cyl piston has a recess (female) and the booster pushrod (male) engages into the piston.

Have you checked your booster yet to see if there is a reaction disc at the end of the m/cyl pushrod?

If not, unbolt the master cyl and ease it away from the booster. Pull the booster pushrod out about 20mm then sharply push it back in.

If you hear a definite hard clack or clunk type of sound then the reaction disc is missing.

If the rubber reaction disc is in place then it will act as a cushion and the impact should be somewhat softer and fairly quiet.

Otherwise remove the booster from the car, stand it vertically in a vise, carefully remove the m/cyl pushrod and visually inspect for the reaction disc.

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#327 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 02:33 PM

Dave that sounds like a great idea I'll do that. Does the reaction disc sit behind the booster pushrod?

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#328 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 04:24 PM

Well anyway, fixed the temperature gauge issue. Turned out to be the wrong sender and a VDO one did the trick. I explained it in more detail in the separate thread i posted. So it still gets hot (needs a cowel), but at least i can see it climbing. Sometimes i notice coolant just bellow the top tank of the radiator on the side in that little lip. Just cant figure out if its coming from the cap or leaking out of the overflow outlet.

Got the headlining in, pretty happy about that, but he bent the absolute shit out of my rear view mirror which im not happy about. I wonder how i can straighten the base to stop it from rocking back and forth. Apart from that my damper came off my SU and it turns out the thread is broken. So now it pops off and throws my engine out of tune. Not sure if i can glue it, pretty desperate for a replacement so i can drive the car this weekend. Also noticed that my rear screen was put back in sort of the one side, how can i shift it over so it closes all gaps evenly?

Do the aussie 4 speeds usually clunk about in high gear when you let go of the throttle?

i dont know if you can see but the thread had split away from the actual top.

And this is for you dave regarding the warning switch.

had to say goodbye to one of my rescue pups he went to work at port Phillip prison as a rehabilitation dog!!

Edited by judgelj, 22 January 2014 - 04:28 PM.

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#329 Potta

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Name:Craig
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Posted 23 January 2014 - 02:18 AM

There should be a little bracket with a switch that gets pushed in when the handbrake is down.

It goes just in front of where the pivot bit with the cogs on is.

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#330 S pack

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 12:20 PM

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#331 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 06:58 PM

We'll that certainly clears that up for me. What I don't understand is why the loom had two wires going to the brake warning light on the dash?

Where these things optional?

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#332 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 08:08 PM

THe other wire goes to the prop valve under the bonnet.

Either one triggers the warning light.

Its a 72-73 thing TMK, my LC never had the prop valve.

Cheers.

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#333 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 09:17 PM

Yeah ones to the prop valve, the other is to the handbrake switch as per the wiring diagram. Problem is I have two wires bridged together and no handbrake switch. Did lcs really not have prop valves or fail switches?

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#334 S pack

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 09:47 PM

Yeah ones to the prop valve, the other is to the handbrake switch as per the wiring diagram. Problem is I have two wires bridged together and no handbrake switch. Did lcs really not have prop valves or fail switches?

The brake junction block incorporating the brake fail switch was introduced for 1971 LC production.

The handbrake warning switch was a Dealer fitted accessory and could also be purchased as a kit over the dealers spare parts counter.

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#335 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 09:49 PM

Ah, my LC was 1970, hence the confusion. Thanks for clearing me up Dave.

Cheers.

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#336 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 10:28 PM

I'll have to trace the extra wire...

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#337 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 07:27 AM

hope this helps

see brown wire here coming out of dip switch

runs out across the floor here to switch

as dave as posted this is the switch you need

this is where the wire plugs to the switch

a lc one if you need it

cheers gong

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#338 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 09:36 AM

GTRWiringHarness.jpg 276.47K 6 downloads

Definitely not there in mine. I vaguely remember there being two pink/tan wires going to the back of that warning light. Now i cant remember what did what. Anyway, where is the brake fail wire i cant see it?

Edited by judgelj, 24 January 2014 - 09:42 AM.

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#339 TOERUNNER

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 09:49 AM

the tan wire should be taped up in the harness near the dip switch,

that's where mine was ,it had a female bullet connector on it ,but mine is in a lj,

I used a door light switch from an old corolla to activate the light

cheers rodney

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 09:59 AM

GTRWiringHarness.jpg

Definitely not there in mine. I vaguely remember there being two pink/tan wires going to the back of that warning light. Now i cant remember what did what. Anyway, where is the brake fail wire i cant see it?

You won't find the brake fail warning circuit on that 1969 workshop manual wiring diagram. LC didn't get the brake fail switch until 1971 and updated LC workshop manuals were never published.

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#341 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 08:31 PM

Makes sense, i didnt even think it was that old...

Dave ill pull the booster off maybe tomorrow. Could the reaction disc have dislodged and fallen inside the booster whilst moving the thing around?

the tan wire should be taped up in the harness near the dip switch,

that's where mine was ,it had a female bullet connector on it ,but mine is in a lj,

I used a door light switch from an old corolla to activate the light

cheers rodney

So you pretty much made your own?

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#342 S pack

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Posted 24 January 2014 - 09:52 PM

Dave ill pull the booster off maybe tomorrow. Could the reaction disc have dislodged and fallen inside the booster whilst moving the thing around?

That is a strong possibility if the m/cyl pushrod had accidentally slipped forward or came completely out of the booster.

There is also the possibility the guy who recoed the booster forgot to put the reaction disc in or had a mishap handling the booster.

FYI, the reaction disc has a flat face and a raised nib in the middle on the opposite face. The flat face contacts the end of the m/cyl pushrod and the raised nib contacts the tip of the rear pushrod.

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#343 TOERUNNER

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:27 AM

it was easy as, could probably use any door light switch and fab a bracket to suit

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#344 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 January 2014 - 09:38 AM

Rodney I'll look into it I have as pair hilux switch sitting here to use.

Dave it worked immediately following the reconditioning. The problem started after I stripped the car to bits. It is very possible it may have fallen in as the booster was moved a lot before it was finally put back in. But whatever happened, happened between the time it was rebuilt and refitted, and when the car was stripped for resto.

The other worry was if I had shit in the brake lines I made up from cutting and flaring.

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#345 _judgelj_

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 05:26 PM

Ok now i seem to see this a lot lately, after i have driven the car and it has cooled down (typically the next day, never on the day). I cant figure out where its coming from. Doesnt look like its leaking from the overflow hose, so it must be coming from the radiator cap. But its brand new, as is the radiator?

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#346 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 05:34 PM

back presser from the overflow line or is it dripping from your automatic line you have blocked off there.

cheers gong

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#347 _Agent 34_

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 07:16 PM

there are two types of radiator cap ;

recoverable and

non recoverable

recoverable = bottle

work the other out

It may have something to do with the cap as above.

G

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#348 S pack

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 07:30 PM

Could be the radiator cap or upper hose or a fault in the solder joining the top tank to the core or one of the fittings into the top tank.

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#349 _judgelj_

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 09:52 PM

back presser from the overflow line or is it dripping from your automatic line you have blocked off there.

cheers gong

It's not the auto line it must be a bit of an illusion but the coolant is in the lip of the top tank. I too was thinking overflow line but there is no evidence of it dripping coolant.

there are two types of radiator cap ;

recoverable and
non recoverable

recoverable = bottle
work the other out

It may have something to do with the cap as above.

G

I'll have a look but it's strange as it does it only when cooling