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LC S Coupe Rebuild


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#376 _judgelj_

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 09:33 PM

Haha, Jacob willing, not god willing, i like it.

 

Anyhow Dave its pretty shocking. Barely idles, impossible to drive. If you give it a rev it just misses badly and backfires through the carbs.

Things to eliminate.

- steel gear on dizzy

- alloy gear on cam

- gilmer runs on the inside of balancer so balancer hasnt slipped (contrary to what i thought) 

 

Things to consider

- distributor timing

- valve adjustment



I doubt its balancer related. There is one keyway on the holden 6, shouldnt move under any circumstance. I thought it may have slipped the outer ring of the balancer but turns out it wouldnt because the gilmer runs off of the inner part. Outer part is not used. 



#377 N/A-PWR

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 09:39 PM

compression test it now Jacob, even if you take all the spark plugs out, and use your fingers in the spark plug holes, they all should excert pressure when turning over



#378 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 09:39 PM

can you turn here over  jacob and get tdc and check timing marker,just to exclude timing?

 

then check to see where dizzy is at same time,just my thought


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 14 February 2014 - 09:42 PM.


#379 N/A-PWR

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 09:41 PM

a, blown gasket between cylinders, should suck your finger a bit in the side by side cylinders - try 5 and 6



#380 Rockoz

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 09:44 PM

I was thinking along the lines now of rocker/valvetrain problem.

The bang is what concerns me.

But certainly pull the rocker cover off and check tdc with cam timing as well as obvious part misplacement in the valve train



#381 _judgelj_

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 10:09 PM

I'll comp test it tomorrow, if it was a head gasket wouldn't I get water usage or leakage? As for the timing mark I'll get tdc and check but it was perfectly timed when I put it together and has never seen a v belt so shouldn't have slipped.

I'll pull the rocker off too. When it happened it sounded like something broke, which is worrying but something has obviously changed instantly. Whether it's something broken I don't know. The noise could have been the backfire whn whatever happened, happened.

Thanks so much guys, I really appreciate it. Speak more tomorrow.

#382 N/A-PWR

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 10:22 PM

you can do a head gasket without breaking into the water jacket Jacob, I say that is a compression break, not a water burst. Dave I

 

p.s. I can show you a few Compression break Head gaskets, when I take a Photo of them



#383 Rockoz

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 11:05 PM

Forget about the harmonic balancer.

Apart from indicating timing it wont affect it. Unless it spun and you adjusted the timing after.

Sounds like its backfiring through the carbs. The clip isnt really long enough.

Get it running with assistance if required, and pull leads off one by one, listen for changes then replace lead.

Having them slightly loose before you start will help.

A head gasket problem will show itself by little or no change to idle when you pull the lead to affected cylinders.

If there is change when only one lead is pulled its likely the problem is that cylinder only and could be valve train related on that cylinder.

If there is difference between all cylinders when the leads are pulled I would think it is overall timing and gears the likely culprits.

Its a quick check to do first up without removing anything apart from leads.



#384 S pack

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 12:06 AM

Grab the distributor body and see if you can turn it, also remove the dizzy cap and check the rotor button is correctly engaged into the end of the shaft. People have been known adjust the timing then forget to lock up the dizzy clamp.



#385 Potta

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 12:32 AM

Yeah it sounds very similar to what my car was doing and it was incorrect timing that was the culprit, sounds like your dizzy may have slipped/broken.


Edited by Potta, 15 February 2014 - 12:33 AM.


#386 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 06:52 AM

For what it's worth, check the rotor button hasn't Brocken the lug and is now loose/moving. Sometimes it's the imple things that get overlooked for a much larger problem.

That's my 2cents. God luck!!!

Oops. Good luck!!!

#387 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 11:08 AM

Haha thanks guys, plenty of knowledge for the arsenal. Ill write a list and check i one by one. Hope its something silly. The only thing that is not brand new in that engine bay is the rotor button, funnily enough. Ill have a look and maybe make this car show after all. 

 

And yes it is popping through the carbs, video would have been longer but it wont idle for very long.
 

Prior to this, here is some of the work i was doing. Made a fuel pressure gauge fitting and made up some aluminium cowls to direct airflow into the radiator and not up into the engine bay, or down onto the ground. 

 

 

Dummy and final version

IMG_3703_zps81f80807.jpg
 
The polished/seemingly see through bit is actually the polished alloy. 
IMG_3701_zpsd5e8bd9e.jpg
IMG_3700_zps1c05fc49.jpg
IMG_3699_zpsd5d974a3.jpg
IMG_3697_zps7ba5d6f3.jpg
 
Ill be ordering a new speco 15psi gauge from ebay.Whether or not this works as it is pneumatic, ill never know as its 100 psi and wont register a measly 2 psi. 
IMG_3696_zpsbcce28cb.jpg

Edited by judgelj, 15 February 2014 - 11:12 AM.


#388 N/A-PWR

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 11:20 AM

another thing, is a cracked or faulty spark plug



#389 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 12:26 PM

Well had two sets of spark plugs and no change. Also new coil and module. Bosch module too. If it was a module it wouldn't start would it? Leads are also new but I can always go back to old ones to test. New head gasket too.

#390 Rockoz

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 01:49 PM

Need to start looking.

For ease try this.

 

1. Check dizzy for tightness. Has it moved?

2. Check rotor button. Can you turn it on shaft?  Remove and check lug in hole.

3. Spin crank to bring timing mark up. Is rotor pointing to roughly 1 or 6?

4. Pull No 1 plug and bring piston up to tdc

5. Pull rocker cover and check valves on 1 and 6

 

These can be done in an order of types



#391 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 04:28 PM

Ok I went down but I forgot my keys. Had a snoop around and I found that the coil was a bit oily but I don't think it spewed, it's probably from the copious amounts of tyre shine I spray in the engine bay. It's a Chinese coil, can't get the Bosch ones anymore. I checked the dizzy, didn't appear to have moved as the module bit is parallel to the rail as it was originally. However upon trying to turn it, it spun. Obviously could have been tighter but I don't think it moved, now if it's back in the right spot I don't know... Checked the rotor button, it turns about a 1/4 turn before I feel resistance, not sure what to look for with these? Points a little past #6. Maybe I need to replace it with one to test. And that's about it for now, all I can do until tomorrow.

Edited by judgelj, 15 February 2014 - 04:31 PM.


#392 S pack

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 04:54 PM

Turn your engine over one full turn until the timing mark on the balancer lines up with the mark on the cover. Now set your dizzy so the mark on the rotor button lines up wit the mark on the edge of the dizzy body. If the timing mark on your balancer is correct then your dizzy will now be firing No.1 at TDC. Tighten the dizzy clamp and try firing up the engine.

 

Edit: Pull the rotor button off and check the lug of plastic inside where it sits on the shaft. 1/4 turn of freeplay in the dizzy shaft is way too much. Maybe something inside the dizzy has failed.


Edited by S pack, 15 February 2014 - 05:02 PM.


#393 Rockoz

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 05:22 PM

Will get a little play in the dizzy thats the advance mechanism.

Oil from the coil would not be good.

Will have to put timing light on it for sure.



#394 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 05:49 PM

Ok I'll check timing. For battery in the boot can I just steal positive off the back of the alternator to power the timing light?

But first thing I'll turn the motor over, line up timing which is at around 12-14o.

#395 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 05:52 PM

What symptoms do you get from a bad rotor button out of curiosity?

#396 Potta

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 06:55 PM

It'll fire at the wrong time and if it is broken it'll fire randomly so you'll get all the symptoms you've been getting.

 

The timing will be totally out.



#397 _judgelj_

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 11:49 AM

Ok, sounds plausible. Just wonder if it can go with no warning whilst driving. Ill get a spare and try. 



#398 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 01:52 PM

I pinch positive for my timing light off the alternator. Works fine. 

 

I"d be pullign the rocker cover quickly before trying to start it again, possibly a broken valve spring or rocker, and further running it will cause more damage if thats the case. 

 

I had a bent valve onece that did exactly what your describing.

 

Just eliminate that first, then continue on with stuff that wont cause more damage to the engine. 

 

Cheers. 



#399 Potta

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 02:36 PM

Yeah agreed Bomber it definitely sounds like something has let go somewhere that is screwing up the timing.



#400 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 04:34 PM

Yeah that's actually good advice, should have thought of that earlier. Anyway, in the meantime until i get around to it, thought id post this video:

Do m20's do this or is something to blame? All im basically doing in the vid is applying throttle and letting go. You can hear the rev, and then the clunk following it. The frequency of the clunk depends on how many times i press and release the throttle. Tends to only do it in high gear like on the freeway. Cheers

 

Click the pic and turn your speakers up.

  th_IMG_3704_zps34a7d17f.jpg

 

Cheers


Edited by judgelj, 17 February 2014 - 04:35 PM.





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