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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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674 replies to this topic

#401 _judgelj_

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 09:20 PM

Thought id take a few pics of the rotor button, does this look rooted?

Edited by judgelj, 21 February 2014 - 09:21 PM.

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#402 Retyred

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 10:14 PM

Jacob, I know a few other guys have already suggested this, but if you haven't already taken the rocker cover off and checked you rockers, then you should do so. You mentioned that you heard a bang as you changed down and then the problem started. It is very easy to over-rev on change down and old Holden rockers do not like to rev too high too often. I did exactly the same thing on my old XU1 at Winton with the same result. On the other hand, if you really can turn the rotor button 90 deg without any resistance, then there is clearly a problem in the distributor drive system.

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#403 Rockoz

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 12:29 AM

Need to look at the other end of the rotor button.

Ummm. Have you followed the guide I posted?

If you do it, and give answers someone here will give you the diagnosis.

Still reckon its internal.

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#404 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 08:19 AM

I haven't actually had the chance to get down and follow the advice given. Hopefully ill be doing this today, just thought id post up some pics in the meantime. Does it actually look ok in general, or does it need to be replaced?

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#405 orangeLJ

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 08:30 AM

For the $15 for a new one, it won't exactly hurt, that one doesn't exactly look new.

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#406 Rockoz

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 10:10 AM

Looks ok from those angles. But its the underside where it fits on the shaft is where the damage will be that may be causing your problem.

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#407 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 12:41 PM

Yeah I'll buy one anyway for piece of mind. However I did find the problem and it turns out the car snapped a rocker stud. Not flush, still 3/4 of the stud left. Took it clean off at the last thread. So now I'm stuck in a position to get it out and find a new one to fit, and hopefully make the car show.

I was reading about removal. If I have most of the stud, is it still wise to drill and tap the stud? Fit a bolt and then what? Slide hammer?

Is this the best process if I'm leaving the head on? What do I have to do with the roll pin? Do I need to drill it?

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#408 Bullet

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 12:55 PM

Try locking two nuts together on the stud if you have enough thred then unscrew the bottom nut.

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#409 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 01:17 PM

Threads snapped off completely, plus they are pressed, not sure if it would turn anyway?

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#410 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 01:40 PM

Yay i was right.

Knock the roll pin out with a small pin punch, keep it to one side.

If you have viceys you should be able to get the stud out.

I wouldnt be to keen on drilling and tapping to close to the exposed engine, swarf and all, if you grease the shit out of everything you might be ok.

Possibly a better idea to weld something to it if possible.

Dunno, never treid doing it on the car.

Cheers.

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#411 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 03:25 PM

I got my hands on a stud puller so i will be drilling and tapping it, but ill make sure i dont make a mess. How am i going to get the roll pin out with a punch? Its in the side of the boss. Looks like it needs to be pulled out...

Do i need to seal the new stud? Im going to do an all nighter try and get it ready for tommorows show.

Cheers

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#412 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:01 PM

Ah i get the problem now. Again never removed pins without pulling the valve/spring out,

Yeah, have fun with that.

Might be able to tap it all the way through if your lucky then fish it out of the spring assembly.....

If you have earplugs laying around shove them in the oil return holes.

Coat your drill and tap with grease, clean and recoat them frequently. This will catch most the swarf.

I would use red loctite, the stud locker type, upon reassembly.

Cheers.

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#413 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:09 PM

Personally, I'd think it would be quicker/easier/less frustrating to pull the head.

Unbolt the manifold leaving the exhaust and carbs in place, unbolt the rockers, pull the head. (an hours work to pull it I reckon).

Get it on a bench, pop the valve & spring out...rip into it.

If you hit a major snag late in the evening, source another head just so it's mobile for tomorrow.

Someone on here will have one sitting about...

Good luck!

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#414 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:13 PM

Yeah I'll try tap it through the spring assembly. Do I use the red loctite on the bottom of the press in stud? Just like installing a head bolt minus the thread obviously. Is it sealed underneath or does it protrude into water?

Honestly though if I pull the head off I will be up for so much work plus head gasket. I admit it would be a heap easier but refitting those su's is an hour or more on its own!!!

Next problem is adjusting the rockers. Can I just run it valve cover off and nip them until they stop chattering + a half turn?

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#415 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:17 PM

If there adjustables then yeah that would be a good starting point.

Run it, loosen each one off till it chatts then tighten it up till it just stops, do all of them, then go back and do them all up 1/8th of a turn at a time.

Cheers.

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#416 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:19 PM

Fair enough - your call.

My thought is that if you don't have success you'll be pulling the head anyway and on holden 6 it is an easy job. At least you'll be half way done if/when you decide you need to pull the head...

Good luck

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#417 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 04:41 PM

Is it 1/8 total turn or 1/8 turn at a time until they are a 1/2 turn fastened?

Yeah well I suppose I'll have no choice if it comes to that. But when you have a lot of custom crap it's a pain. Plus I don't have any bolt sealent so I won't be going to any car show any time soon lol.

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#418 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 05:05 PM

1/8th a turn at a time, do them all, wait for it to settle, do them all again untill you get to 1/2 a turn.

They dont like it when you just crank down on it in one go, will drop cylinders and stuff most likely.

Cheers.

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#419 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 05:26 PM

Awesome thanks so much for the help. I'm halfway there currently tapping the stud.

So a bit of loctite around the bottom of the new stud? Cheers

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#420 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 05:29 PM

Yeah mate. PRetty sure they dont go into water....You will find out when you get the old one out anyway haha.

Just to help hold it.

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#421 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 06:01 PM

Well spose it can't hurt. The one I pulled out of an old 161 head seemed to be a little corroded. Looked like it had rusted through the boss but I don't have any head bolt sealent so loctite will have to do.

Should I re drill the new stud for a roll pin? Although the likelyhood of me getting it spot on is very unlikely, wouldn't know how to jig it up so it drills square

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#422 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 07:10 PM

Would be easyest to drill it when its fited you would think?

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#423 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 07:54 PM

Wow what a blonde moment lol!

Anyway not too much luck so far, I might have to wait until tomorrow to get some longer/ higher tensile bolts that are just bending.

Thanks

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#424 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:53 AM

Does it really need a roll pin? Will tapping it in with a hammer be ok - just go until the sound changes and its obviously been seated?

Can anyone chime in if they know that it has a water jacket?

Edited by judgelj, 23 February 2014 - 08:53 AM.

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#425 S pack

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 09:04 AM

Rocker stud holes do not go through into the water jackets.

Roll pins through the studs aren't factory but some engine builders recommend & install them when using HEAVY valve springs to prevent the studs pulling out of the bosses.

Edited by S pack, 23 February 2014 - 09:08 AM.