Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

«
Prev

Next
»

Please log in to reply

674 replies to this topic

#426 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 09:54 AM

You are a legend Dave thanks I was stressing. I'm gutted I couldn't do it last night. I'm giving it another crack now. Am I right to tap the new stud back in?

Back to top

#427 _LHSL308_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:04 AM

Good luck mate I could imagine how much of a tedious job it is.

Back to top

#428 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:15 AM

Man this is in that tight that my puller is snapping high tensile bolts, I'm making a slide hammer hopefully that will help.

Back to top

#429 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:01 AM

Ok so slide hammer didn't work. This stud is not coming out. I'm going to attempt to drill it all the way. What am I trying to achiever by drilling it? And I drilling it to make it easer to pull or an I going to drill the material into nothing?

Back to top

#430 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,725 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:23 AM

Ok so slide hammer didn't work. This stud is not coming out. I'm going to attempt to drill it all the way. What am I trying to achiever by drilling it? And I drilling it to make it easer to pull or an I going to drill the material into nothing?

Maybe time to remove the head and take it to an engine rebuilder to get this repair done.

Drilling the stud out with a hand held drill you risk drilling off centre or through the stud at an angle into the cast iron stud boss and frOcking it completely.

Back to top

#431 _threeblindmice_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:31 AM

Would running it until hot help , expanding the head , any thoughts on that theory ?

Back to top

#432 sibhs

Lotsa Posts!

Members
2,719 posts

Name:Martin
Location:Perth
Car:LJ Coupe S
Joined: 27-July 12

Posted 23 February 2014 - 12:08 PM

Hey Jacob, can you get a good picture of it please.

Might help every one.

Cheers

Marty

Back to top

#433 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,639 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 23 February 2014 - 12:10 PM

Hi All,

Heat in Steel expands equally slowly, unless you give one part a rapid heat, like a Blue Tongue ( OXY ),so you have to work very quickly,

on the other hand is, Freezing, and again you need to act Fast.

Loctite ( from a Bearing Shop ) has Freezing in a can for about $11, so you drill a hole in the Head bolt at the thread, spray in the hole Freezing, put in the biggest Easy-out, and hope for the best, also a nut welded on the bolt at the thread would have much more Torque. Dave I

Back to top

#434 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 12:27 PM

I think it's time to take it off too. Just going to be a prick as I'll have to repainy everything.

I'll get some pics up soon just have barely been home ive been working on this car

Back to top

#435 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 03:49 PM

The problem

Removing a spare rocker stud

Removing roll pin

Drilling stud

Tapping stud with 6mm tap

Attempting to remove... 5 snapped high tensile bolts later...

5 snapped high tensile bolts later... After this i tried the LPG but its too risky for my positive valve seals if i haven't burnt one up already.

Resorted to making a slide hammer

So there you have it. A detailed series of pictures showing you why i am so gutted right now. And on top of everything, it actually turned out to be an amazing day today (despite yesterdays rain and clouds). I saw one slr5000 on the road and i shed a tear as i made my way back from bunnings with the supplies for the car.

I seriously do not know what to do. And i know you are going to say remove the head ya wuss, but its honestly the very last resort.

Edited by judgelj, 23 February 2014 - 03:55 PM.

Back to top

#436 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,639 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 23 February 2014 - 04:14 PM

Did I miss something, can it be screwed in Jacob, mine are in the 186 head, Dave I

Just pinned for locking

Back to top

#437 _LS1 Taxi_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 04:26 PM

Have you had a go with a stud remover?

Even if it's not threaded, it could go a long way to freeing it.

Back to top

#438 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 06:08 PM

Get it off, get proper screw in studs fitted, no more issues.

Cheers.

Back to top

#439 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 07:46 PM

Dave they are pressed in as far as I know.

Didn't even know stud removers existed? What do they do exactly?

Screw ins are on the cards if it comes off. Oh the mess I will make with the coolant!!

Back to top

#440 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 07:50 PM

I know the coolant pain.

While my engines out this time im thinking about getting some fittings and running some line from the drain bung in the side of the block down to a ball valve to make life easy.

Cheers.

Back to top

#441 _LS1 Taxi_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:12 PM

This is a stud remover.

Any decent tool shop/total tools/autobarn/repco etc will sell them - $25 to $40 usually.

If you can get a bite on the remaining stud with it, you put a rachet on it and it should hopefully twist it free. The tighter you twist it, the harder it grips the stud.

15-1532StudExtctr.jpg 98.38K 4 downloads

Back to top

#442 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:24 PM

A drain valve would make life SO easy. If i had a dirty motor i wouldnt care, but the amount of water stains ill have to polish out is painful!

Not a bad idea.. So its not pulling it, its twisting?. My only concern would be it crushing the stud as it is drilled. I wonder if it would work.

Back to top

#443 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:44 PM

My other question is, can they actually be tapped in with a hammer, or are they pressed in with a press? If they cant be tapped in, no point leaving it on the car.

Back to top

#444 hanra

Oh My, Don't you post alot

Members
10,975 posts

Name:Brad
Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 23 February 2014 - 09:22 PM

Maybe try putting it in a bucket of iced water before fitment?

Back to top

#445 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,639 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:08 PM

Jacob,

If you do get the Stud remover, put a solid pin in the drilled hole and turn the stud remover anti-clockwise just in case. Dave I

Edited by TORYPOWER, 23 February 2014 - 10:09 PM.

Back to top

#446 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:17 PM

That's a good point Dave I can thread in a bolt or something.

Does the ice water contract the steel?

Back to top

#447 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,639 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:26 PM

You would need Dry Ice, has to be very very cold.

Rubber snapper Cold, to shrink Steel enough, you are only talking 1 thou shrinkage, also, that Loctite stuff gets a bit of lube in the gap at the same time.

also, if the ICE is on the other part, then there is no gain, as that part is shrinking too. Dave I

Edited by TORYPOWER, 23 February 2014 - 10:32 PM.

Back to top

#448 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:35 PM

Dave can these press in studs be hammered in?

Would a penetrant spray actually penetrate around the boss?

Back to top

#449 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,639 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:43 PM

A hammer has a different Force ( too much, and in the wrong direction ), a Press is Controlled, so the right pressure does the job with just the right amount of Force, and in one direction.

A Pressed fit, is too tight to penetrate.