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LC S Coupe Rebuild


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#476 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:17 PM

the boss stud hole dave,.thought it could have a burr or somethin,

 

spose the sealant will fix that


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 24 February 2014 - 06:18 PM.


#477 S pack

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:25 PM

Ahhh Ok, thought you may have meant the lower end of the stud.

 

I'd expect the entrance to the stud hole is beveled to help the stud start in the hole.



#478 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:42 PM

Grant, it was a big show mate. Cruzin Knights annual, heaps of cars, people were calling me asking why there were so many cars on the road and if i was going to the show, lol. 

 

Never had to replace a rocker stud but my guess is the stud should be such a tight fit in the hole that without lube it may bind before it is driven in to the correct depth.

 

Was thinking about whether or not the stud holes in the bosses should or shouldn't penetrate into the water jackets.

If the holes were blanked off from the jackets then driving the stud in would compress the air trapped below it and may prevent the stud seating down to the correct depth. So if this theory is correct then it makes sense that the stud holes open into the water jackets.

Makes a lot of sense, will the permatex act as a lube? Should i oil and lube it or is that going to have a negative reaction?

 

dave is a thinker  :spoton: .the top of the boss must be burred too for the scratches or just the way it came out,would taking the lip off with a file help when seating or ?

Youre probably right. The other one came out of the head no worries, but this one was under so much pressure it popped when it finally moved. The spare stud still has the factory thread like machining marks, not a scratch on it.  I might clean the edge anyway. 

Can i just use a nut on the end with a soft hammer, that shouldnt damage the thread should it? 



#479 _LHSL308_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 06:43 PM

What show were you eager to go to? An all nighter means it must have been decent?!

Would have been the 1st ever Wyndham car show I am guessing, I wanted to go too but damn work went and got in the way as it usually does.

 

http://www.loveofcar...mid=99&seq=1282

 

Good news mate, I am glad you got that stubborn stud out. Looks like next month is a goer then hey :) 



#480 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:02 PM

Cant wait, wayne. Ill start selling copper to pay for the fuel haha/. 



#481 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:19 PM

i think drag lc just used a copper hammer,i would be worried about the thread with nut on there.probably take some hitting,put a couple nuts on if you do ,best of luck jacob



#482 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:28 PM

Yeah, i dont have any drift to use.. Nuts will have to do. Anyway thanks guys for the help, as always.

 

Got some more progress pics to post up. Cheers



#483 S pack

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:42 PM

One other thing to consider is why did the stud shear in the first place?

Was it simply fatigue or is the rocker gear being over stressed?



#484 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 08:18 PM

Daves point about air in the bottom makes sence. I will now assume they go to water untill i bother to actually pull one apart to see for myself. 

 

Loctite stud locker type products generally act as a lubricant, then dry when outside of the presence of oxygen (ie tight spaces) so you sould be right just dipping it in red shit. 

 

Cheers. 



#485 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 08:56 PM

But do I want something that hardens like red loctite? Does water change the equation? What is the difference between something like perrmatex and GM sealant?

Does anyone use 515 or no 3 with success on head bolts?

#486 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 09:17 PM

Using red loctite will only be an issue for the lads you drop the head off to to get screw ins fitted lol. 

 

I use #3 on all paper gaskets, bar a couple i use #4 on. 

 

I use 567 on head bolts. 

 

515 seems reasonably useless on a Holden six, though i have been considering using it on sideplates and frOcking off the cork gasket. 

 

Might be able to be made t work on the Sump as well but will require ext pickup or pickup modifications. 

 

Cheers. 



#487 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 09:44 PM

Haha would you give them a head up before you drop the head off? nahhhh.

 

No 3 seems like a good idea for paper gaskets, i use three bond but its a Cunning Stunt to apply. A mate is getting me some 'welch plug' sealent from work to try. Apparently this can be used for headbolts, we will see.

So Permatex no 3 - $6
     GM sealant - $80+

 

They both do the same thing, is it really worth going for the GM stuff? Even the loctite 5XX stuff is dear. 
 



#488 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 09:48 PM

No head up, they will quote you extra. 

 

I've never seen GM sealant yet along used the shit. Cant really comment. 

 

Also never used Permatex #3, assumed it was the same stuff as Loctite #3. Which i assume is different to GM sealant, though i've never seen GM sealant so have no idea. 

 

567 is cheap when you throw it in your back pocket as your leaving work :D

 

Cheers. 



#489 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:02 PM

Haha love the old back pocket stuff. Spermatex and Loctite no 3 are the same thing. Its a universal formula AFAIK. Anyway ill be using no 3 on this stud, Hope its ok. Need i worry about the coolant and drying the boss at all? Or just get out what i can, coat the stud and slam it in? Im over obsessing i know, im just paranoid it will leak lol. As i have been with every bloody thing ive bolted to this engine.  



#490 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:10 PM

I find it hard to believe you havnt dropped the lower rad hose into a clean bucket yet. 

 

And great to know that GM sealant is just #3....you taught me something :D

 

Cheers. 



#491 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:19 PM

Surprisingly the only leak were the side plates which i have since 3bond'ed and not a spec of oil. Surprised i taught someone something ha. Well it's used for the same thing, whether it is the same or not im not sure. I thought GM stuff was the norm and loctite the outcast. I'd really like to hear some more opinions on this, i am very intrigued. 

I 3bond'ed this today ready for re installation tomorrow. This time i covered the whole gasket. Apart from not being able to pull the cover off in the first place (gasket stuck to both sides), i only applied it in sections and it left me with bits and pieces.

 

Also started my gear shift and handbrake gaiters by cutting out some template material. 

 

IMG_37841_zps36554877.jpg
IMG_37831_zps18507378.jpg


#492 S pack

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:48 PM

Haha love the old back pocket stuff. Spermatex and Loctite no 3 are the same thing. Its a universal formula AFAIK. Anyway ill be using no 3 on this stud, Hope its ok. Need i worry about the coolant and drying the boss at all? Or just get out what i can, coat the stud and slam it in? Im over obsessing i know, im just paranoid it will leak lol. As i have been with every bloody thing ive bolted to this engine.  

Stop worrying. That stud should be such a tight fit in the hole that you'll be damn lucky if any sealant stays on the stud shaft as you drive it in.

The only way this is going to leak is if the replacement stud isn't tight enough in the hole, and if it isn't tight enough you'll be lucky if it stays in there for any great length of time even with the roll pin fitted.

 

Just oil the stud up with gear oil and whack it in there.

 

Actually a good idea would be to get a vernier caliper and measure the OD of the old stud and the replacement stud. GMH serviced two oversizes for the rocker studs. Make sure the one you are fitting is the same size as the one it is replacing.



#493 _ljxu1torana_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:49 PM

is that where my pegs got to.lol.



#494 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:55 PM

Thanks dave you make a lot of sense! Ill definitely check the diameter, thanks for mentioning it. 


Jason i grabbed a big handful and couldnt be bothered taking the rest back. Dont like wasting haha
 



#495 TerrA LX

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:59 PM

Also never used Permatex #3, assumed it was the same stuff as Loctite #3. Which i assume is different to GM sealant, though i've never seen GM sealant so have no idea.

N0.3 sealant is no.3 sealant, whether it be in permatex, loctite or GM packaging.

#496 S pack

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 11:11 PM

Almost forgot, grab one of those cotton tips, you know the type people use to pierce their eardrums with getting the yella crap out, dip it in the gear oil and wipe a coat inside the stud hole.



#497 N/A-PWR

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 11:20 PM

I have never pegged a Gasket on. Dave I



#498 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 11:44 PM

OOH AL,YES PEG,  :D



#499 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:11 AM

I'll take a few ear buds with me, Dave. Problem trying to coat the inside of the boss is the pool of coolant inside.

How tight do I fasten the rocker nuts initially before I do the final tightening whilst the engine is running? Just until the nut is firm on the rocker?

Can I run it straight away, the no3 doesn't have to cure does it?

#500 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 08:19 AM

I wind them down to match the others ,is a good start.




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