Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

«
Prev

Next
»

Please log in to reply

674 replies to this topic

#551 red6

Forum Fixture

Members
591 posts

Location:Melbourne
Car:1971 Lc Torana S 2 Door
Joined: 11-November 05

Posted 01 March 2014 - 04:54 PM

[/quote]

Oh so I can't rule it out yet. Can they dislodge on their own. Maybe when the booster is physically handled?

Can I remove that seal without damaging anything to check?

No, Yes, Yes, Yes.

Take the booster an lie it pushrod facing up on a pile of rags. As before, slowly pull the pushrod out of the booster 10mm or so. push it back in with a little force and you should be able to tell if it has the reaciton disc behind it (if it sounds/feels cushioned) or is it is missing (if it sounds metal on metal) Have a look at the link below if you need some info to make what your trying to determine more clear.

https://www.google.c...iw=1280&bih=681

Back to top

#552 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 01 March 2014 - 05:05 PM

Makes plenty of sense, but if it can't easily be dislodged the it must not be my problem. I'll try it anyway.

Cheers

Back to top

#553 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,722 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 01 March 2014 - 07:36 PM

Jacob

The m/cyl piston has a recess (female) and the booster pushrod (male) engages into the piston.

Have you checked your booster yet to see if there is a reaction disc at the end of the m/cyl pushrod?

If not, unbolt the master cyl and ease it away from the booster. Pull the booster pushrod out about 20mm then sharply push it back in.

If you hear a definite hard clack or clunk type of sound then the reaction disc is missing.

If the rubber reaction disc is in place then it will act as a cushion and the impact should be somewhat softer and fairly quiet.

Otherwise remove the booster from the car, stand it vertically in a vise, carefully remove the m/cyl pushrod and visually inspect for the reaction disc.

Back to top

#554 Redzone

Forum Fixture

Members
517 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Sunshine Coast
Car:Mini torana's - Gemini coupe 10.787@123mph, log booked Group A DOHC Gemini under resto..
Joined: 02-November 10

Posted 02 March 2014 - 08:48 AM

It is a well known fact that if you depress the brake pedal on a car that has the booster fitted but no master on the front of it, that you run a high chance of the reaction disc falling out.. Could that have happened when you pulled it apart the second time?

Back to top

#555 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,722 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:28 AM

It is a well known fact that if you depress the brake pedal on a car that has the booster fitted but no master on the front of it, that you run a high chance of the reaction disc falling out.. Could that have happened when you pulled it apart the second time?

Or if you pull the booster off and don't secure the front pushrod so it can't slip out before you start swinging it around on the way over to your work bench.

Back to top

#556 Redzone

Forum Fixture

Members
517 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Sunshine Coast
Car:Mini torana's - Gemini coupe 10.787@123mph, log booked Group A DOHC Gemini under resto..
Joined: 02-November 10

Posted 02 March 2014 - 09:40 AM

Yep!

Back to top

#557 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:12 PM

Either way. The booster did get moved around a bit and spent a while on the floor rolling around. Its plausible. Anyhow i will take on that advice and check. Its always top advice anyway, thanks guys. Dave did you do anything about the weeping seal? It's $200 for a rebuild, and i dont think it is entirely necessary.

Another thing, are all the rockers supposed to have oil feed all the time? When i was doing the adjustments i noticed that some had pools of oil, the others just a light film and no visible oil feed for the duration of the job. I want to go back and pull the pushrods out to check for obstruction, but wanted to ask first.

Cheers

Back to top

#558 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,637 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:21 PM

blow out the push rods and see through them Jacob

Back to top

#559 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,722 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:16 PM

Either way. The booster did get moved around a bit and spent a while on the floor rolling around. Its plausible. Anyhow i will take on that advice and check. Its always top advice anyway, thanks guys. Dave did you do anything about the weeping seal? It's $200 for a rebuild, and i dont think it is entirely necessary.

Another thing, are all the rockers supposed to have oil feed all the time? When i was doing the adjustments i noticed that some had pools of oil, the others just a light film and no visible oil feed for the duration of the job. I want to go back and pull the pushrods out to check for obstruction, but wanted to ask first.

Cheers

Yes I put a kit through the master cyl and had to clean up and repaint the booster.

Oil flow through the pushrods to the rockers should be constant.

When adjusting valves I've seen Holden 6's at idle squirt oil out the oil holes in the rockers and all over the engine bay and other 6's that just seem to seep oil out the holes.

Maybe to do with the oil pressure at idle but I suspect it's more to do with the lifters.

Back to top

#560 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 02 March 2014 - 02:39 PM

Yeah i noticed that. Everyone says it makes a mess but i didnt have one drop leave the valve area. So ever rocker should have pooled oil, ill pull them out and blow them with the compressed air. This might explain why my engine clacks when i turn it over. Takes about 10 seconds for it to quieten down.

Back to top

#561 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 03 March 2014 - 03:49 PM

If i find that i keep fouling plugs after proper tune, can i try a hotter plug? I use BP5ES and i was thinking to try the BP4. Are there any negatives to this?

Back to top

#562 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

Members
9,637 posts

Name:Dave I
Location:Wooroloo, 65km's East of Perth
Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
Joined: 08-December 12

Posted 03 March 2014 - 04:00 PM

6 is best - the Carb settings need changing

Back to top

#563 madtoranajzedded

Sir ask alot

Members
2,893 posts

Name:Maz
Location:Southern Tasmania
Car:72 LJ SL SEDAN.
Joined: 30-September 13

Posted 03 March 2014 - 04:23 PM

if you have an old rocker cover laying around jacob you can cut the top off along the two lines on top to stop

oil going everywhere when you adjust the tappets.

Maz

Back to top

#564 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 03 March 2014 - 07:55 PM

6 you reckon, dave? The carbs were tuned just right, took about 300 k's of driving to foul.

Maz surprisingly my tappets dont squirt oil, strange i know.

Back to top

#565 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 10 March 2014 - 12:11 PM

Some pics from the all Holden day.

Back to top

#566 hanra

Oh My, Don't you post alot

Members
10,969 posts

Name:Brad
Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 10 March 2014 - 12:35 PM

Shit, how many cars were there? All Holdens?

Back to top

#567 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 10 March 2014 - 01:39 PM

There were actually 700+ cars there. 7000 plus visitors.

Back to top

#568 hanra

Oh My, Don't you post alot

Members
10,969 posts

Name:Brad
Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 10 March 2014 - 01:56 PM

Thats insane. We had to combine the Holden day with the Ford day just to get enough cars to make a show......

Back to top

#569 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 10 March 2014 - 02:14 PM

Was pretty full on. Would have been nice without the VX + models, who unfortunately made up some numbers. Could have also done without the blasting stereos!

Back to top

#570 _Macca97_

Guests

Posted 10 March 2014 - 02:18 PM

looks like the weather was good to.... a real stereo is an XU-1 muffler

Back to top

#571 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 10 March 2014 - 04:56 PM

That's my kind of music. I think they need to start kicking out people playing obscenely loud music. Send them to maccasnats i say.

Back to top

#572 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 11 March 2014 - 05:04 PM

Can anyone explain what a hotter plug will do for my ignition system? I've fouled yet another set of plugs, and before i can do any other trouble shooting i need to replace the plugs anyway (most likely a temporary set). Im thinking maybe a hotter plug to compensate for my SU needle selection as the mixtures were correctly set, unless of course they have gone out of adjustment?

Could there be any side effects to a hotter plug? Is it worth a shot?

Back to top

#573 TerrA LX

Fulcrum Fixture

Members
14,241 posts

Location:Sid 'n' knee
Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 11 March 2014 - 06:34 PM

Hotter plugs can induce detonation and run on.
If your plugs are only fouled then simply just clean and dry them.
Hotter plugs are intended for cooler chambers and are a real band aid fix for fouling plugs.

Make sure your ignition system is right upto scratch before you go chasing your tail with mixtures.
A weak ignition will foul plugs and look rich on the plug.

Back to top

#574 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,722 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 11 March 2014 - 07:11 PM

Here's an interesting vid on understanding spark plug heat ranges.

Back to top

#575 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 11 March 2014 - 07:29 PM

Well thats the thing, i dont know what to fault, everything is new no exceptions (ignition wise). I was under the impression they needed to be replaced. How can i clean them? They are charcoal black.

What kind of cars would need a hotter plug, say in a 6 cyl BP4ES?

Ill have a watch now Dave.

The only reason i ask is the plugs have to be replaced anyway, and if it was a mixture problem i thought i would end up needed yet another set by the time i get around to getting to tuned, so though it might be worth a try. Just didnt want to do any harm...