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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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674 replies to this topic

#101 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 12:43 PM

Thanks mate. Bloke from In Motion metal polishing just of Wright street in Sunshine. He does all sorts of plating as well as polishing. I was super impressed with my grills as they are pretty much brand new. He removed all the dents, i can't actually tell where they once were. Only cost around 4-500 from memory for grill and both surrounds.

Cheers

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#102 ant285

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 06:00 PM

Also need to decide on ceramic chrome coating the extractors, or heat wrapping them. Also like to use braided type lines in place of steel brake lines, and perhaps some fuel lines. If they exist?

heat wrapping reduces the life span. better off ceramic coating them

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#103 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 07:05 PM

Well I suppose ceramic is the go. I was quoted 260 which is reasonable compared to some other mobs. Tomorrow ill probably be dropping off a few bits to the chrome plater. Problem is, where do I stop??

Ill also be rebuilding the front end so should be ordering a bush kit tomorrow. Only decision i have to make is do i go heavy duty bushing for a V8 in the future? Or standard for now. Also nolathane vs rubber. Too much to do!!

Cheers

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#104 Mort

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 10:33 PM

Jacob if you have the spare coin to get the bushes i would now as down the track when its all ready to go in you may not.

I bought a kit from Kingswood Country ( eBay ) for Tracie's car and it was all rubber, which seems to be the go, a lot of people have had a bit of trouble with Nolathane bushes crumbling.

Edited by Mort, 24 September 2013 - 10:33 PM.

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#105 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:17 PM

Well my mechanic recommended rubber over nolathane but i suppose it's a matter of availability as his supplier does not stock rubber. But then again for $300 for the entire front end kit, it is not that bad. Only things i don't really need are the k frame to chassis bushings and the steering coupling as i use knuckles.

K frame will go to blasters tomorrow to be blasted and powder coated. Does the heater box assembly unbolt from in the engine bay or under the dash?

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#106 _judgelj_

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:27 PM

So pretty much separated the k-frame from the engine as it is due for sand blasing and powder coat. Contemplated 2k but for $250 all up i cant go wrong. Pulled it apart and off it went. Only problem is i stripped on of the brake line fittings and it's pretty much done for as i had to cut it off. What can i do now? Would my best bet be to find a second hand brake K frame brake line?

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#107 kiwi-lilj

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:39 PM

Buy the tools and make some new lines. It's easy peasy lemon squeezy.

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#108 Ice

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 09:27 PM

If your getting that k frame sand blasted you need to strip it completely down wishbones and all

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#109 S pack

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 09:47 PM

Jacob

Which brake pipe did you have to cut? Was it the short pipe from the brake hose to the caliper on the left hand side?

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#110 _judgelj_

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 03:46 AM

Buy the tools and make some new lines. It's easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Not a bad idea i might look into that!

If your getting that k frame sand blasted you need to strip it completely down wishbones and all

And all the way back i came! Ill be stripping it sat!

Jacob

Which brake pipe did you have to cut? Was it the short pipe from the brake hose to the caliper on the left hand side?

The one that runs from the LHS along the front of the k frame to the RHS caliper. I had to cut it at the RHS flexible hose as it would not unscrew.

I wonder if i can get braided brake lines and change the steel lines from booster to that valve?

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#111 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 06:26 AM

I wonder if i can get braided brake lines and change the steel lines from booster to that valve?

yes you can i have them on my ck and s/s line through the rest of the car.

cheers gong

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#112 Redzone

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 09:21 AM

Well my mechanic recommended rubber over nolathane but i suppose it's a matter of availability as his supplier does not stock rubber. But then again for $300 for the entire front end kit, it is not that bad. Only things i don't really need are the k frame to chassis bushings and the steering coupling as i use knuckles.

K frame will go to blasters tomorrow to be blasted and powder coated. Does the heater box assembly unbolt from in the engine bay or under the dash?

Go for super-pro brand urethane bushes, they now have a lifetime warranty! I use them at work, they are great.

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#113 sibhs

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 10:26 AM

Well my mechanic recommended rubber over nolathane but i suppose it's a matter of availability as his supplier does not stock rubber. But then again for $300 for the entire front end kit, it is not that bad. Only things i don't really need are the k frame to chassis bushings and the steering coupling as i use knuckles.

K frame will go to blasters tomorrow to be blasted and powder coated. Does the heater box assembly unbolt from in the engine bay or under the dash?

Heater box unboltes from under dash. Not a nice job but helps if all wiring, pedals etc are out.

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#114 _judgelj_

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 12:37 PM

John, would you have a picture mate? Im pretty keen on replacing all visable SS lines just havent found much info!

Dave, i think that's the brand. Lifetime warranty is pretty ambitious they must be good?

Martin, i might leave that job for another day. One thing i hate about these cars is the lack of space under the dash! I was going to chrome the wiper motor but i pulled it open and it was pretty new inside and i think it will look better black. Not worth the trouble!

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#115 _judgelj_

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 06:05 PM

Another question is i noticed a whole lot of bloody shims in the upper control arm. i took care when removing them to note how many where on each side, but do i need them and what are they for? If they are for alignment can i leave them off and leave it up to the alignment guys to put them back when i get one done?

Thanks

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#116 S pack

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 11:16 PM

Jacob, the shims are for the caster and camber settings so probably best to put them back in as you found them and let the guy doing the wheel alignment remove or add shims as required.

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#117 _judgelj_

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 11:51 PM

Sounds good. Lucky i took pictures and made sure everything was bagged up as it came off. Only reason i asked as i have seen toranas without them and wasn't sure what differed between cars for some to require them and some not.

Apart from that spent most of the day pulling the bushes off the k frame. Was pretty happy with the result. Used piping and sockets to press out the control arm bushes in my vice!!! Who said you need a press? Also spent a bit of time hammering the crap out of the ball joints. Had to drill the upper ones out and sort of enlarged to holes. Should i be worried or will the new ones just bolt back in?

Apart from that everything is moving!!! Woo!

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#118 warrenm

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 07:04 AM

The new upper ball joints should be "bolt in" so should be Ok.

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#119 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 10:26 PM

The new upper ball joints should be "bolt in" so should be Ok.

Yeah but will they move around? I would assume the bolts are just small enough to fit in the holes so even if they loosen the ball joint wont move around. But then again everything has been dropped off to be blasted and powder-coated so i can't do much now. If i really need to ill weld the holes up.

What i should of done is drill a small amount and chisel the heads off. Rather than drill the rivets out entirely. Live and learn i suppose.

Edited by judgelj, 01 October 2013 - 10:36 PM.

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#120 Ice

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Posted 01 October 2013 - 10:57 PM

Once you tighten up the bolts on the upper ball joints they wont go anywhere put a bit of locktite on them if your worried about them

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#121 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 06:40 AM

John, would you have a picture mate? Im pretty keen on replacing all visable SS lines just havent found much info!

mate the car is locked away in a small area atm but one i can get to it i will get you pics...

to your ball joints,,, once you tighten these nut take out your welden and put a dab on each nut it will stay in place forever then.

cheers gong

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#122 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 10:24 AM

That's a great idea John, I'll just have to sand away a bit of powder coat won't I? And don't stress too much about the pics. We're the lines just 3/16 with 3/8 fittings either end?

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#123 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:07 PM

Apart from the nut coming loose. Can the ball joint assembly 'move around' if some of the bolt holes have been enlarged/distorted?

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#124 Toranamat69

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 11:13 PM

No, not if the bolts are correctly sized and torqued up - This is a common misconception about how bolted flanges work.

I personally would not be welding high tensile bolts, I would use a positive locking nut like a conelock and locktite.

Depending how much you have opened up the hole, you may need to use a washer.

Edited by Toranamat69, 02 October 2013 - 11:15 PM.

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#125 _judgelj_

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 12:57 PM

No, not if the bolts are correctly sized and torqued up - This is a common misconception about how bolted flanges work.

I personally would not be welding high tensile bolts, I would use a positive locking nut like a conelock and locktite.

Depending how much you have opened up the hole, you may need to use a washer.

Out of the two arms one has one hole slightly elongated and the other has perhaps 2 out of 4. I suppose i will leave it until i get them back from powder coating and it comes time to re assemble. I just thought that under road pressure, the flanges might be persuaded to move horizontally despite the bolts being tight....