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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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674 replies to this topic

#126 _judgelj_

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 11:10 PM

Smallish update this time round. Got around to adapting my new water temp sender to the temp switch hole, which is considerably larger. Basically drilled out a brass bolt to allow circulation of water on the inside and then drilled and tapped the top end to accept the sender. Thread was strangely 1/8 BS 27 which took me a while to figure out. Taped and o ringed it all though not sure that was nccessary. Gave it all a polish and it looks good!

Organised my front end bushes, new throwout bearing, slotted discs. Just have to get the dizzy curved. polish and paint everything then hopefully re assemble.

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#127 stevemc32

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Name:Steve
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Car:LJ 4 Door
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Posted 12 October 2013 - 08:54 AM

That sender does look good all polished up!

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#128 _judgelj_

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 09:04 AM

Amazing how good brass comes up with less than 5 minutes work!

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#129 madtoranajzedded

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Name:Maz
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Car:72 LJ SL SEDAN.
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Posted 13 October 2013 - 06:42 PM

nice car judgelj,looks very straight,what you got planned next,by the looks of it ,just jump in and drive :3gears: ,very nice specimen

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#130 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:06 PM

Thanks, Jason. Pretty much trying to get it finished by December to enjoy driving it this summer... Pretty much replacing/renewing everything except the body at this stage. After i paint and assemble the front end, it will be tuned and registered. Then ill pretty much strip the interior, paint the floor/ dash, instruments and install the new headlining and carpet i have had for ages. Seats are perfect nick so not much stuffing around. Few other bits and pieces like GTR dash and chrome plating a few things. I can do the interior over a few weekends whilst it is on the road, no need to prolong driving it for a new carpet. . Good thing about the car is that i can drop a V8 in whenever i want as it used to have one!

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#131 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:11 PM

So i've been getting on with it at home and finally got around to pressing on the cam. And by pressing i mean bashing. Hopefully its on all the way, seems to have come flush with the backing.

Damage i did to the balancer.

Started breaking down the alternator for polishing. Can't free the front housing from the inner rotating assembly...

Dogs sleeping on the job.

Edited by judgelj, 13 October 2013 - 09:13 PM.

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#132 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:38 PM

Jacob it looks like you left the cam securing plate off , it is suppose to go behind the cam gear , it's got three holes in it a big one in the middle and two holes that take the screws that hold it to the block .

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#133 kiwi-lilj

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:39 PM

My dogs bed looks very similar.

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#134 _judgelj_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 10:17 PM

Jacob it looks like you left the cam securing plate off , it is suppose to go behind the cam gear , it's got three holes in it a big one in the middle and two holes that take the screws that hold it to the block .

Bruce i think i just got a tear in my eye. I cannot believe i forgot it. I broke it taking it off so i had nothing to remind me to put it back on

My dogs bed looks very similar.

As in very broken? Is it even a bed, more like a dog frame... lol

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#135 _judgelj_

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 09:31 PM

Ok so i've been busy busy. Ball joints are in, as are front end bushes and throw out bearing. Kit didnt come with upper bump stops though, not sure if i need them. Replaced cam gear with thrust plate installed, this time round. Ordered my ram tubes from Midel. Still trying to source some filters locally, any ideas? Gilmer drive is on its way, all i need now are some disc rotors and a new alloy radiator (hope there will be clearance)!

Got stuck into the dizzy, will be sent off soon for a curve. Pulled alternator apart and is being polished, replaced the bearings. Got all my chrome back and got the exhaust back. Im really not happy with the exhaust and contemplating throwing it away. The bloke didnt really explain that it would turn out crap knowing what i was after.

Need to get on with the polishing as the k frame will be done next week ready for assembly. Motor still needs painting and it should be silver in the end.

Still not finished.

Box included bolts, M/C cap and retainer, alternator fan and bolts/puller, chassis to k frame bolts and washers.

I wonder if i can clean up these leads?

I used very course roloc pads, stupidly. Took a while to get the scratches out.

Edited by judgelj, 16 October 2013 - 09:35 PM.

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#136 Rockoz

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 09:42 PM

May as well replace your alternator bearings while its apart. And maybe the regulator as well

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#137 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 08:45 PM

Yeah i've ordered the bearings. Reg should be fine alternator doesnt look to have had a hard time.

Finished the dizzy, coil, coil bracket and alternator today. Started the fuel pump and i hope to finish that and the starter motor tomorrow. Will also decide if i am going to polish the timing cover and water pump. Thoughts? Both will be pretty hidden so im not sure...

Not too happy with the ram tubes. They are of poor quality and rusted. I called SU Midel to give them an opportunity to redeem themselves but they wont do anything unless i pay to send it back, which i dont see the point in as i didnt order rusty parts. Suppose i wont be dealing with them again.

Starter the fuel pump with barrel sander so get out all the casting marks. Then scotchbrite EZ locks on the dremel which are pretty much the best thing to prep the surface of the alloy, although they do wear out quick and at 15 for two, not cheap.

Alternator done and fuel pump almost ready for the buff. Also polished all of its brass and bolts.

Dizzy about done. Needs a bit of a clean and hand polish.

Edited by judgelj, 17 October 2013 - 08:48 PM.

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#138 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 08:49 PM

Also need to find a local supplier for air filters in melbourne.

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#139 N/A-PWR

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Posted 17 October 2013 - 10:41 PM

Great Photo's and the Polishing as well Jacob

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#140 _XU1Bitchin_

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 12:00 AM

_{Nice little ride mate looking good}

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#141 _Linesy_

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 04:56 AM

Top Job on the polishing! Makes a mess but looks the goods when done. Going to be a neat car once complete - well done.

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#142 madtoranajzedded

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Name:Maz
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Posted 18 October 2013 - 03:32 PM

keep em coming judgelj,great job so far jacob,that would of took a while,whats next on the list

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#143 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 05:58 PM

Thanks guys. Something pretty rewarding about polishing except im on my third day straight so pretty over it! Sometimes i forget that i am absolutely black in the face and go to bunnings or something, i must look like a chimney sweep.

All in all they came out good. Not 100" happy with the dizzy might hold onto it and have another go before it gets spun up. I wasnt happy with a few things so had to go over them but im getting quicker the more i do.

Jason, Next on the list is timing cover and water pump. Still have to finish fuel pump and starter motor. After that i need to get stainless bolts for basically the entire engine. Not 100% if im going to run a fuel reg though. Apart from that, my gilmer belt drive rocked up today and will need some polishing. Also have to pickup my radiator but imight wait until everything in the car, not sure it will clear the gilmer pulleys. Need some new discs and i think that's about it? Just a bit of paint on the motor (silver or black?) and assembly of all the accessories. Also need some braided line here and there but its getting into the dark area for me as i dont have the vision to decide on everything before i get it together and i can look at it.

Dave, i got my shifter back from chroming. I might have to PM you with some ideas on how im going to rebuild it an eliminate the slop.

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#144 madtoranajzedded

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Name:Maz
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Car:72 LJ SL SEDAN.
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Posted 18 October 2013 - 10:36 PM

lol i can just imagine you goin in a shop with everyone lookin :rockon: ,this is just my opinion,id go black with motor as it lets heat out of the block,whereas silver will retain the heat probably the same as a chrome rocker cover does,i ran an alloy finned rocker painted black with finned black kc sideplates with hex key which looked pretty tuff,i used stainless bolts on me new frontend balljoints and me cousin told me i had to put fastener on threads to stop the nuts from unwinding,thats what he said anyway.id probably check that out judgelj,check out some books to give yaself an indication how she"ll look,keen to see the beast together.

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#145 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 09:51 PM

Yeah ill be using some loktite on the ball joints, dont see why not, its cheap insurance. Apart from that i really like the blacked out look but to be honest i've never really done anything crazy with a car so thats why im going for all the silver and chrome. If i dont like it i can always use my finned rocker cover. Thank god i didnt sell it.

Yeah hopefully it will be together soon. Im pushing my november deadline, and it's stressing me out as if i miss out on a roadworthy before Christmas break i am screwed.

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#146 _judgelj_

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 09:43 PM

Almost finished polishing. What is finished thus far:

Anyone have any thoughts on the fuel pump? Thought id do something a bit different...

Billet alloy is really hard to polish. Is there a reason? Surface was flat to begin with but could not get rid of the satin haze. Even now it shows scratches a lot.

Painted my new HZ/HX pedal.

Polished the starter and masked it up to be painted.

Started waterpump. My gilmer belt fouls on this?

Started the timing cover.

Repaired the rat trap. Holes became elongated so they were filled up, centered and re drilled.

Any opinions on the gold?

Got these bad boys in the mail.

Any ideas on how to get out the super fine scratches?

Now a few things to think about:
1. Do i go for slotted discs or just standard replacements?
2. Do i really need a pressure reg for the SU's.
3. Is my cam too small?

(IN. 33/73 EX. 75/31 VALVE TIMING, 286/286 DUR, 224/224 50 DUR, 110 LC, 423" LIFT, 2500-6000 POWER RANGE)
4. Do i go for manifold studs and stainless dome nuts? If i do can i use thick washers or do i have to use the steel oval looking spacers that come from factory?

Edited by judgelj, 21 October 2013 - 09:52 PM.