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LC S Coupe Rebuild

Started by _judgelj_ , May 27 2012 12:34 AM

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674 replies to this topic

#151 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 11:26 PM

TORYPOWER, on 21 Oct 2013 - 20:58, said:OK,
here is the Slotted and dimpled ones:-

http://www.ebay.com....f4d2b434&_uhb=1

and ventilated ones that will require wider calipers:-

http://www.ebay.com....860f9050&_uhb=1

I think you will find that both ads are for the same RDA disc part #RDA8D. Both ads have just used generic pictures, the second ad has just used a vented picture.

If the original rotors on your vehicle are solid, the replacement RDA rotors will also be solid. If the original rotors on your vehicle are vented, the replacement RDA rotors will also be vented. There are no vented replacements for solid rotors.

The photo above is a generic image. RDA Disc Rotors supplied may differ in shape.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 October 2013 - 11:29 PM.

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#152 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

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Name:Dave I
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Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
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Posted 21 October 2013 - 11:30 PM

My Bad and good pick up,

Still slotted and dimpled

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#153 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 October 2013 - 01:02 PM

Very Nice Jacob,

Head turner is what you are asking, so more pieces like long wing nut tappet cover bolts etc. Dave I

p.s. the water pump gilmer pulley is probably for a long shaft pump and you have the short one,

I remember they only sold long bearing kits and I cut the shaft down for my short pump.

p.p.s. fine scratches come out with finer polish, uncontaminated

Yeah i think that's the look im going for. I worked out that it came with a spacer so that will fix the clearance issue. And you may be right about the polish. I think its because my flanno rag is way too dirty. It is black after all.

Dont think you can get slotted discs for lc toranas in 13 inch rims

That cam is fine other wise it will be a pig to drive with a big cam

Ill make sure the diameters are correct first before anything. My question is are they even worth the extra $100 with standard girlock calipers.

You are right, Gene. What i really want to know is how it will idle. I think its the same as the XU1 grind, 2" less duration and a fair bit more lift.

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#154 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

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Name:Dave I
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Car:'1969' LC RAT TORANA
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Posted 22 October 2013 - 02:21 PM

You may be right about the polish. I think its because my flanno rag is way too dirty. It is black after all.

My question is are they even worth the extra $100 with standard girlock calipers.

Hi Jacob,

Throw away polishing materials when used too much and use the same polishing material with each grade of refining,

also could not dimple and slot 4 sides for $100. Dave I

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#155 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 October 2013 - 04:12 PM

Calipers are gone and will be cleaned and painted. As well as shifter linkages which will have the slack taken up. Idea is to get everything as tight as possible.

Looking at these? http://www.ebay.com....80a49e47&_uhb=1 Im assuming its for the pair. If not i found some reasonably priced through hoppers stoppers. Cheers

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#156 _judgelj_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:14 PM

Ok well things are getting tricky. Sort of running out of time to finish. Just waiting on my discs (drilled and slotted). In the mean time have to put the k frame back together, polish the engine bay, paint motor/box/fit clutch and assemble everything else. Still need some braided line so if anyone knows who stocks it in Melbourne that would be great. Also, do i need to run a hard line from the fuel pump the fuel block or can it be rubber/braided?

Now some opinions needed. Do these gates need welding? there is a little bit of play, is that normal. Will making them tight eliminate the sloppyness of the gear stick or is that what they are like? I have never used a 'new' on so i have no comparison to draw from.

After

Before

Polished my brass fittings (mostly just the heads)

Some new toys

Before

Everything rebuilt, no more sloppy linkages.

Badly worn rat trap pivot points. Filled with weld and re shaped.

Finished product

Tried reflaring some line, turned out pretty crap. Need to re do?

Edited by judgelj, 29 October 2013 - 09:20 PM.

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#157 _Hamster_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:20 PM

all looks awesome.

Except those stupid woolworths cards lol

what paint are you using?

Edited by Hamster, 29 October 2013 - 09:20 PM.

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#158 _judgelj_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:22 PM

Haha someone gave them to a fam member and they were given to me to sell. I had a look and cannot be bothered. Its all just enamel Hayden, probably looks better than it is. The cleaner and smoother the surface, the better.

Finished k frame

Are these the right bushes? They feel loose.

Spring bases

Couldnt get these chromed in time.

Made up some bracing to fit inside the control arms to support them when pressing in new bushes.

Edited by judgelj, 29 October 2013 - 09:25 PM.

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#159 _judgelj_

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 08:20 PM

So had to make up a tool to compress the spring inside the k frame so i can connect the stub axle and ball joints. Ended up going with some threaded rod and fair few hours of mucking around to get it right(ish). Would still like to make another one now that ive used it, but then again it does the job. Basically turned down a washed to locate a thrust bearing, and accidentally drilled it out too much so it had to be welded to the nut.

Turned down a tapered slot in this toyota hub flange (which was once round) to locate the other end of the bearing.

Bit of overkill can't hurt, can it?

The two welded washer and pipe fasten two halves of rod. Which is so it can be disassembled once the lower control arm is in.

Cut, heated and bent two tabs to help keep the plat straight whilst inserted into the spring.

Just waiting on my dizzy to get back from curving, and i need to order some front wheel bearing kits. Any advice on upper bump stop install?

Edited by judgelj, 31 October 2013 - 08:28 PM.

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#160 Ice

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 08:33 PM

It will be like riding in a go kart will all that red stuff

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#161 S pack

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 08:58 PM

Can you pull the bush out and post a pic of it? It doesn't look right and it shouldn't be loose.

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#162 _Hamster_

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 09:47 PM

lewking lewking

if my memory serves me correct..........that is what they should look like but in a go fast colour

(trying to find pics of it on the axel for you but i dont seem to have any)

found some on it before redo

Edited by Hamster, 31 October 2013 - 09:52 PM.

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#163 _judgelj_

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 10:05 PM

Yeah they are the old ones Hayden. I think they are the rubber equivalent.

Dave I'll have to get a pic but they are basically the outer diameter stepped down to fit inside the arm. Consists of two pieces, one on either side with a sleeve through the middle.

Gene, be interesting to find out never had urethane before. I hate floaty cars so maybe a good thing, time will tell.

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#164 Ice

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 10:17 PM

It wont be floaty at all just a nice tight hard ride why do i know these things because my front end is full of the red stuff to bar a couple of rubber bushes

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#165 S pack

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:35 AM

No need for a pic then Jacob. I know what you mean by the bush being made in two pieces. Made that way for ease of installation.

These are the original type bushes. Interestingly the HB Torana and the early LC's had two piece bushes before they changed production to the one piece bush.

As typical of a lot of LC/LJ Torana these bushes are installed the wrong way around.

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#166 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 02:20 PM

Thats how mine were installed, Dave. I know because i cut them out. Spoke to the nolathane and he said they will tighten up once bolted in. Also had trouble with the lower shocker rubber as what they gave me is different to the shock i have, but perhaps being a monroe shock it is not the same as factory.

Gene, found out they have a lifetime warranty, cant go wrong can you?

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#167 _judgelj_

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 07:01 PM

Ok so front end is together bar the brakes (discs on). Not sure if i can adjust the tension on the wheel bearings with brakes on? Apart from that engines done, just needs assembly. Not sure if i should use gasket sealer anywhere? I've got 3 bond in a canister, is it suitable? I was thinking timing cover, oil pump and thats about it?

Also, is the welch plug behind the cam on the back end of the block in contact with water at all? If it's not i wont change it. Also not sure if i should change the side ones (one is brass) and the rear most is brass also. Ive painted the engine so i might leave them be.

Gave this bad boy a quick polish.

Took me 30 minutes to mask the ports.

I wanted to ask if thats standard prop valve to rear brakes routing?

Edited by judgelj, 05 November 2013 - 07:03 PM.

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#168 Ice

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 07:27 PM

Hi ho silver lol

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#169 _judgelj_

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 08:59 PM

Lol gene its out there i know, maybe should have gone gun metal grey but its done now no turning back.

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#170 Ice

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 09:28 PM

Once you put a few polished parts back on it will look good

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#171 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 12:19 PM

hi judgelj, your vision on what you thought it would look like is better than you think,looks good bud,thats the std prop,not sure on using gasket glue on oil pump ,them gaskets have a specific thickness for clearance,especially the oil pump coverplate for correct end clearance.the 2 cover bolts go to 6lb.the rest to pump go 20lbs.make sure them bolts are clean too .i always change my welch plugs to block,just to see how much gunk has built up in there .

cheers

maz

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#172 _judgelj_

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 01:46 PM

Thanks maz those torque specs are helpful. I'll probably leave the sealer out then. Will also change the welch plugs stuff it!!

Glad you like it too mate thanks

Cheers

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#173 Rockoz

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 02:01 PM

definitely do the welsch plugs. you may kick yourself later if you dont do them when they are easy to get at.

looking good.

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#174 orangeLJ

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 03:00 PM

I've gotta say, you'l regret having a polished timing cover.

Its near impossible to get in there and keep it nice and shiny (been there, done that) and it tends to accumulate a heap of road grime, dust, water etc.

Thats my experience anyway.

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#175 _judgelj_

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 03:20 PM

I think I'll regret polishing just about everything but I thought I'll give it a go anyway.

And welch plugs ordered. I'll leave the back of the cam as it's in oil. Back of the block is already brass and ill do the side this week