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LC S Coupe Rebuild


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#201 debkar

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 07:27 PM

Hi Jacob

Great progress looks awesome.

That cross member has auto insulators, do you still run them ?

I have used a 12 point nuts, they work well as a 7/16 spanner fits. I'll see if I have any pics,

Great work, haven't checked in for a while

Regards Simon

#202 debkar

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 07:33 PM

These are what I have used in the past ,7/16 af ring fits well or you can grind down a crescent ring spanner to fit the full size nuts

http://www.ebay.com....=item27d9b6248b

Edited by debkar, 18 November 2013 - 07:35 PM.


#203 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 07:37 PM

I was about to suggest those nuts.

 

There worth there weight in gold.

 

Your doing a lovely job Jacob.

 

Cheers.



#204 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:02 PM

Yeah those are the ones i wanted but no body stocks them locally!

Thanks for that DJ. Hopefully sort through some shifter linkage clearance issues and perhaps drive it by this sunday? I sat the linkage adjuster to pivot on the outside of the bracket and it hits the tunnel. 

Whats the best way to go about wiring thermos? 



#205 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:17 PM

Just looking at your older picks, you cant sit the 1-2 linkage on the inside of the bracket? Or run the bracket the other way around?

 

Been to long since i had a stick in my car.

 

Wiring thermo's....Well, i hate wiring, but i used to run one of those dodgy adjustable resistor type things that had the capilary line in the upper hose and switched a relay, have a Spal controller now, much nicer.

 

Cheers.



#206 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:32 PM

I actually ended up pissing that off and using a genuine one, but its side mounted like the 1/2 gear one. Its the block with a pin if that makes sense. I made it sit on the outside of the bracket and it hits the wall. Will have to take a pic.

Yeah that's what i thought but dont really like them too much. What is the spal controller? 



#207 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:34 PM

Better yet, go to post 194 and you will see the picture. But i stupidly moved it on the outside and locked up the adjusting nuts. Should have left it where it was. 



#208 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:44 PM

194 is the one i was looking at.

 

I #@$^%& off the plastic POS as well and ran metal ones like yourse, never had an issue but it was long enough ago (about 9 years) that i cant remember where they sat.

 

Spal: http://www.spal-usa....eets/PWMIns.pdf

 

Cheers.


Edited by Bomber Watson, 18 November 2013 - 09:44 PM.


#209 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 November 2013 - 09:53 PM

Actually i lie, thought the pic in that spal sheet looked wrong.

 

Im running a derale unit.

 

http://www.summitrac...16749/overview/

 

Sorry, my bad.

 

Cheers.



#210 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 08:03 PM

Yeah fair enough, must have to sit in between the bracket and the gearbox not on the outside. I'll look into the thermo control too thanks.

Having trouble with re installation of cotter pin, also have to line up my manifolds as they do not sit level with eachother and I can't get them on with the fixed throttle linkage.

Edited by judgelj, 19 November 2013 - 08:08 PM.


#211 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 08:29 PM

Just realized im a frOcking idiot.

 

Im sitting here procrastinating over how you should have your linkages when i have a factory four speed UC in the shed on axle stands....

 

CE18B5C4-E007-4031-9162-F69D1DD627B9-101

 

BOOM. 

 

Spin it around brother.

 

Cheers.



#212 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 November 2013 - 08:55 PM

How very handy, i was in the shed up until not long ago myself. Vision got a bit blurry so i thought i'd pack it in for the the night. 

NOW... That is how i used to have it with a little steel replica i made of that plastic bracket, problem is it fouls on the tunnel for some reason. I had to bend the bracket inwards to compensate. Now that i am using 2 steel block adjusters, i find that the 3/4 gear selector rubs on the side of the tunnel. Whether i can spin it around on the inside like the 1/2 gear adjuster in your pick, im not sure and it will be fiddly now that the box is back in. At this stage i can change gears if i put a bit of muscle into it, so im hoping something will wear out and it will stop rubbing. Wishful thinking. 



#213 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 09:47 PM

Actually, i lied, its the other way around. 1/2 selector adjuster is fouling (sits on outside) 3/4 selector is fine (sits on inside). Probably have to swap them around!. 

Anyway some more progress. Just about done, have to make a bracket for my rat trap rod as it fouls on the steering knuckle. Apart from that the front su throttle linkage is bent and i havent figured out where to mount return springs. 
 

IMG_3162_zps0c412e2d.jpg

Freshly rebuilt
IMG_3163_zps06a0921f.jpg
IMG_3161_zpseb764102.jpg
 
IMG_3159_zpse748286a.jpg
 
IMG_3157_zps4e9b77b8.jpg
 
IMG_3142_zps9d95df12.jpg
IMG_3141_zps3744b805.jpg
IMG_3140_zps4a840e24.jpg
 
IMG_3137_zpsfec9f038.jpg
 
 
 
 
 
 
IMG_3130_zps80ef55d7.jpg
 
 
 
IMG_3122_zpsc6180ac5.jpg
IMG_3118_zpsa287fed9.jpg
IMG_3117_zps1b985902.jpg

Edited by judgelj, 24 November 2013 - 09:50 PM.


#214 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 09:52 PM

Also any tips on XU1 dash wiring? The standard one has a plug, need i cut it off and hard wire everything? So ill have one wire for oil and water sender. What about amps?



#215 Redzone

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 11:38 PM

Careful of those glass fuel filters, yonks ago, a mate of my brothers had an engine bay fire in his 11 sec monaro caused by one of them breaking!

#216 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 09:52 AM

Oh that's no good. How do they break? I cleaned this one thoroughly and glass seemed good!

#217 _judgelj_

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 08:37 PM

Need to wire up my thermos and XU1 dash. Do i just chop off the existing dash plug and wire everything separately?

Mounted thermos

IMG_3181_zps6ddb0e43.jpg
Throttle springs sorted
IMG_3180_zpsc00600bd.jpg


All fuel lines and fuel block connected. Just have to connect my main fuel hard line tomorrow.


#218 Redzone

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 11:10 AM

Oh that's no good. How do they break? I cleaned this one thoroughly and glass seemed good!


It wasn't hitting anything, they put it down to vibration.. The glass isn't very thick on those ones.

#219 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 01:25 PM

Interesting, I spose I'll find out. But then again I don't think it can catch fire on the 202 anyway no heat source.

#220 _LHSL308_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 01:52 PM

Interesting, I spose I'll find out. But then again I don't think it can catch fire on the 202 anyway no heat source.

What about your extractors, bit of heat there. I am running the same fuel filter btw.


Edited by Gonedeaf, 26 November 2013 - 01:53 PM.


#221 r2160

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 02:32 PM

I also had a mate years ago, had his EH catch fire when the glass shattered. It wasnt attached to anything, they also put it down to vibration as the glass is so thin. The filters we always used is a Ryco.

 

However, if you are after AWESOME filters, get a Lucas CAV filter. They are a replaceable element, and the glass bowl at the bottom catches water, grit etc.

 

http://www.ebay.com....=p2054897.l4276

 

cheers

Glenn



#222 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 07:02 PM

Yeah that filter looks pretty shmick. To be honest it was a gift so thought id run it. But then again would you need an ignition source to ignite the fuel? 

 



That cross member has auto insulators, do you still run them ?

 

Mate i didnt see that, yes i do. Does it change anything can i run without? They are a bugger to fit back up im pretty sure 3 out of 4 are cross threaded but oh well. 



#223 debkar

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 07:20 PM

No worries, I usually run the cross member with a manual box without them,

It seems hard to find a decent pair of the rubbers

Regards Simon

#224 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 08:04 PM

Didn't think you could to be honest? No vibration issues? Still need the spacers right?

I cleaned the rubbers and they came up pretty new. But was so hard to get the bolts I'm straight.

#225 debkar

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 08:20 PM

Hi Jacob

Never had an issue, just bolted crossmember to holes that were already tapped in the LC as manual cars never had the rubber insulators or additional brackets

I don't notice any more vibration

Regards Simon




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