The rods are custom sised to fit .866 pins and holden crank widths and take off the shelf acl bearings,MickAlso with a bit more nosing around your ebay stuff would it be rude of me to suggest you might be using Honda rods and Ford pistons?

202 "stroker" kits- opinions? +knifedged bmotor cranks
#51
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 13 August 2012 - 10:50 PM
#52
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 13 August 2012 - 11:03 PM
OK, .055" gives 215ci, .075" gives 218ci ,( the 222ci are not available any more and 5.73 was the length of the last batch of rods they are 5.7 now i will change the add) pistons are flatop only ,deck height will be up near the top on a virgin block.Playing aroudn with a few numbers because im waiting for picks to upload, and im a bit bored, i have some more questions.
What overbore are you working on with the calculations on the ebay add??
Going by my rough sums then the 3.375" stroke you say the kit has works out to about 216ci at .060", to get the 222ci you quote in the ebay add you would need to go .110" overbore??
Standard bore = 209ci, .060" 216ci, everything inbetween is inbetween obviously...Unless im missing something??
Anyway, my rough sums also say your moving the piston .0625" up at TDC, and your rod/piston combo (assuming its 5.7 not 5.73 as your ebay add used to suggest) and the comp height is 1.2" means the piston will be sitting .0325" higher at TDC with your kit, which would be usefull on an undecked block, save taking so much off.
The rough sums also suggest that it will sit the piston roughly .030" lower than stock on a stock stroke, meaning taking the average of .050" required to get the slug to TDC (just going by seeral i have measured) your looking at pulling .080" off the deck, that would start to worry me a bit, and thats just to get to 0 deck, give or take a bit obviously.
So are the rods 5.7" or 5.73"? The ebay add used to list both lenghs? Was 5.73 just a typo?
Only asking as 5.73 would be awesome for a stock stroke job....This is all working off 1.2" comp height, you say roughly....
I dont mean to look like im analyzing your add trying to put it down, just trying to sort the sums out, dont want to buy something and find out its not suitable, or i have to take .100" off the deck for instance.....
So many dumb questions as im toying with the idea of a nice 12 port headed injected street engine and the little bit extra stroke is actually a bit tempting, what are you turning your engine to??
Also are the pistons available in various chamberr sizes or purely as flat tops? And i assume there available in a variety of bore sizes, given that you mentione varoius sizes in the ebay add.
I ask about the chamber size as you will need to be very carefull running around 215ci when it comes to chamber size of the head, for instance @ 215 you will need about 54cc vol at tdc to be around 12:1.....
Cheers.
#53
Posted 14 August 2012 - 10:06 AM
#54
_CHOPPER_
Posted 14 August 2012 - 03:30 PM
#55
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 14 August 2012 - 06:24 PM
#56
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 14 August 2012 - 06:28 PM
Oops the other info is for BomberSo if they are +0.55", then they are Ford 250 pistions then?
#57
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 14 August 2012 - 08:47 PM
Still throwing ideas around atm though

Cheers.
#58
Posted 15 August 2012 - 11:41 AM
If your using HS8 carbs, you can also fit float bowls from a "Cooper S" to level the bowls out.Sounds like theyve got it in for you mate, July 29th was my first meeting in 2 yrs so i have a lot of catchin up to do,time seem to be the main problem.Its hard to get 37kg out without changing the cars character too much.Everything not needed is out (even swaybars) .May be I should lose the 37kg.
Yep definatley seen the light , I couldnt get any more out of the holley. I started with torana manifolds and cut them to get the bowl angle dead right ,otherwise they can sometimes run out of fuel,also joined them together with 1" tube. After a lot of time getting needles right it was ready to run again. There might be a bit more in it with springs and oils and smoothing the air coming into the carbs.
#59
Posted 15 August 2012 - 12:04 PM

and these (8 of the things, so two spares)

and the big alloy 12 port.
we just want to throw a counterweighted crank in, but figure its worth doing some minor shaping of the leading edge on the counterweight for that poofteenth extra reduction in resistance.
all the knidedged cranks Ive seen have a heap of work (like someone mentoned about, lots of weight removed)
Would it be worth simply creating a "leading edge" on the crank, intstead of trying to reshape half the conterweight? Regardless of how much shaping, its still going to be balanced with the rest of the internals?
Or do we just stick with a stocko cw crank and not go to all the hassle?
#60
_double_d_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 01:34 PM
but im in brisbane
daniel d
#61
Posted 15 August 2012 - 02:11 PM
Its more which way we go with the treatment of it/them?
#62
_stretchlc_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 02:21 PM
#63
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 08:18 PM
G'day mate, Which rods and pistons do you have there,if you are unsure which way to go with the crank see if you can drive a car with a full weight crank,then drive one with a lightened crank,there is a difference. Or if you are near sydney i can take you for a drive,if you send down a crank we can knifedge it for you or grind it ready to use,mickIve got 4 black/blue cranks and a couple more still in blocks, so thats not the issue (but thanks for the offer)
Its more which way we go with the treatment of it/them?
#64
_CraigA_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 08:41 PM
Mick, I have raced with you at WSID and your car certainly goes good!!


Edited by CraigA, 15 August 2012 - 08:47 PM.
#65
Posted 15 August 2012 - 09:30 PM
We previously used ford 250 with 200rod pistons ,but found another piston with circlips for floating pins and changed the rods to suit.We are turning to 6300 rpm through the traumatic because thats all the combo needs , have i missed any questions mate ,when are you ready to build?Mick
Hey Mick , i like the crank and longer rods idea but do you have an upgrade for a bit better than cast pistons ? i know its a compromise but 55 thou oversize is getting thin in the bore , do you offer pistons in smaller diameter ? or the other option i get custom pistons made similar to the J&E slugs in orangeLJ,s pic above and look at buying your crank and rods .. thanks would be good to know .
#66
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 09:36 PM
G'day mate we can supply a .035 cast piston if you wish, i have used .075 over for over five yrs and there is still .120" wall thickness after that. You will need to get custom pistons made if you need to have forged.Hey Mick , i like the crank and longer rods idea but do you have an upgrade for a bit better than cast pistons ? i know its a compromise but 55 thou oversize is getting thin in the bore , do you offer pistons in smaller diameter ? or the other option i get custom pistons made similar to the J&E slugs in orangeLJ,s pic above and look at buying your crank and rods .. thanks would be good to know .
#67
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 09:40 PM
G'day mate ,hows it goin ,I remember racing you at nostalgia drags.Are these parts in your car now or are you building another engine?This is the crank in my engine. Counterweight blue crank lightened and knife edged.
Mick, I have raced with you at WSID and your car certainly goes good!!
#68
_CraigA_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 09:50 PM
Bit faster now. 13.5@102mph

#69
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 09:57 PM
Yep im using hs8 off 1961 jag.wish i'd known about the cooper bowls ,would have saved some work.If your using HS8 carbs, you can also fit float bowls from a "Cooper S" to level the bowls out.
How long have you been using a blue head mate

#70
_STRAIGHTLINEMICK_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:00 PM
Thats great, got good mph. when was the last timeyou raced?In the current engine Mick.
Bit faster now. 13.5@102mph
#71
_CraigA_
Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:10 PM
Thats great, got good mph. when was the last timeyou raced?
A couple of months back at a private day. There is a low 13 in the car but can't be bothered chasing it

I am glad that you are on the forum as your experience is valuable and it's good to see someone still focussed on selling Red motor performance parts.
Haven't seen you at Repco North Parra for a while. Are you still there?
#72
_Skapinad_
#73
_double_d_
Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:17 AM
why yikes ???1 thou???...yikes!!
#74
Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:21 AM
There HD8 carbs Mick, the HS8 has a hose from the bottom of the bowl to the carb, yours have the bowl fixed to the carb. I'm not using the 12 port head in this car now, it's in the UC 4 door with EFI on it at the moment,I've got a 9 port in it now.Yep im using hs8 off 1961 jag.wish i'd known about the cooper bowls ,would have saved some work.
How long have you been using a blue head mateP8150425.JPG 106.52K 2 downloads


The left is the HS8, the right is HD8.
#75
Posted 16 August 2012 - 08:30 AM
I'm really only looking for a crank, I've already got these-
and these (8 of the things, so two spares)
and the big alloy 12 port.
we just want to throw a counterweighted crank in, but figure its worth doing some minor shaping of the leading edge on the counterweight for that poofteenth extra reduction in resistance.
all the knidedged cranks Ive seen have a heap of work (like someone mentoned about, lots of weight removed)
Would it be worth simply creating a "leading edge" on the crank, intstead of trying to reshape half the conterweight? Regardless of how much shaping, its still going to be balanced with the rest of the internals?
Or do we just stick with a stocko cw crank and not go to all the hassle?
It can't hurt, this is what I've done to the crank in my car at the moment, can't find the pics that I took. Think of the leading & trailing edges on a plane wing, it didn't take much to balance up either.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users