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GMH Starfire 1.9L 4cyl interest?


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#76 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 07:22 PM

My home brew, everytime he comes around...Bastard hahahaha.

 

Cheers.



#77 EunUCh

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 07:59 AM

I read your post wrong,sorry Bomber,when you said "pick of crank" I read it as "choice of crank" not pic, as in picture,sorry bout that.

Bear with me,thats bare ,not be ar, as in beer,bloody english language.

 



#78 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 01:26 PM

Are the end counterweights the same sizee as the middle ones? And ate all the counterweights 180 defrees apart? Just thinking blue motor crank.... Nothing lines up hehe.

#79 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 17 April 2013 - 10:19 PM

That thing's got to be well under-balanced, I'm sure if you could pull some weight from the pistons, pins and rods you'd see some improvement.



#80 EunUCh

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 08:40 AM

The weights are at 180,the middle ones are thinner than the end ones but are spread out around the circumferance a bit more. 

At a glance with just a rough measure and half educated guess i would say they would be close but would need to do a water test to 

confirm it for sure.

I hear you oljohnno.



#81 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:06 PM

As far as a cut down alloy 12 port head goes, I saw one today. So don't count out that option.



#82 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 07:24 AM

Something else worth addressing is torsional vibration - I'd be using the heaviest flywheel I could find along with a small harmonic balancer, no bigger than a stock six cyl balancer. This should help reduce the vibrations at the snout that break camshafts and gears, as well as reducing the perceived harshness at certain rpms.



#83 EunUCh

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 08:54 AM

Hadnt thought about cut down alloy head,didnt even know they existed to suit blue motor.

 

Hadnt given too much thought on the flywheel options either so didnt do too much looking into it.

Have tried a 6kg  over the the standard 8.2kg (if my memory serves me correctly) both with a 6 cylinder balancer on snout and the only real difference i could perceive was slightly better pick up,the shakes were still at the same place,no better ,no worse.

Could get off the mark on flat ground in second gear in both cases,didnt do it often,just to see if it would.

I have read a bit about the heavy flywheel,but was not enough to make me think on it,for this reason.

 

My XS1100 has no flywheel worth speaking of and has no where near the shakes as a starfire,although a different animal to some extent i thought the principles would be very close so didnt go looking.

looks like more research,thinking,might even just sit under a gum tree with a couple of cold ones and contemplate for a while :) 

 

 



#84 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 10:48 AM

My XS1100 has no flywheel worth speaking of and has no where near the shakes as a starfire,although a different animal to some extent i thought the principles would be very close so didnt go looking.

looks like more research,thinking,might even just sit under a gum tree with a couple of cold ones and contemplate for a while :) 

 

The XS probably has over 100g less recip weight than the Holden. Bike engines usually get around the torsional vibration problem by taking the power from somewhere near the centre of the crank, so under load they behave more like a pair of 2 cylinder engines (or a triple and a single) than a four.



#85 hanra

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 12:57 PM

Them gumtrees are good on sunny days like today No Balls.



#86 _barana_

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Posted 19 April 2013 - 11:59 PM

@ oldjonno re 4's and sixes having balancing compromises..so what makes v8's so easy to balance? how do they differ vertically and horizontally balance wise?

#87 _barana_

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 12:09 AM

@ oldjonno tell me if im wrong, but that starfire crank sorta looks like a cross between a blue and a red crank... If it had a few more counterweights ah la blueblack, and a balancejob, would it likely cancel the bad vibes out ?

#88 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 05:59 PM

@ oldjonno re 4's and sixes having balancing compromises..so what makes v8's so easy to balance? how do they differ vertically and horizontally balance wise?

 

V8 engines differ from fours and sixes in that not only are they easy to balance, they actually can be balanced. A "normal" V8 with a 90o crank is basically just four 90o vee-twins end-to-end, where the counterweight is sized so that both vertical and horizontal forces are cancelled by each pair of pistons. Additionally, the crank isn't symmetric like a straight six or four. The cranks of the straight engines are like mirror images each side of the centre main, so it doesn't matter what you do with the counterweights, so long as they are all the same the crank will spin away nicely on the balancing machine regardless of how (in)appropriate the counterweight mass is. A V8 crank on the other hand requires bobweights to be attached to the crankpins to keep it from bouncing out of the balancer, thus it is easy to match the counterweights to a specific bobweight and balance factor.

 

Part of the problem is that "balancing" isn't well understood by a lot of people, who have been led to believe that pretty much any engine can be balanced when in fact a hell of a lot of them can never be fully balanced. I've never had a straight six engine "balanced", and never will unless I have some reason to believe it would be of benefit, eg. a crank with profiled counterweights. Much of the time it's a waste of effort and money.

 

@ oldjonno tell me if im wrong, but that starfire crank sorta looks like a cross between a blue and a red crank... If it had a few more counterweights ah la blueblack, and a balancejob, would it likely cancel the bad vibes out ?

 

No, there are differences between fours and sixes. Both types have good primary balance, with or without counterweights, but the six has pretty good secondary balance while the four has quite bad secondary balance. This is due to the difference in piston motion through TDC compared to through BDC. With a small four the forces are small enough to ignore, but with a big four the shakes are a problem. Options include: using a rod of infinite length or a scotch yoke (impractical), adding balance shafts (like most modern big fours), letting the bastard shake (like an Offy), or by using the lightest possible reciprocating parts (the only real possibility with a Starfire). The size of the counterweights won't have much effect on the vibration of a straight four, but they are still important at high rpms. Appropriate counterweights will very greatly reduce the loadings on the main bearings and journals, as well as the bottom end of the block. And again, a "balancejob" on a four or six is mainly a thing of fiction.



#89 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 April 2013 - 08:09 PM

This one's a few grams out, I think...

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=dq6T5BojXc8



#90 EunUCh

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 08:10 AM

HaHahaha,pretty close to the starfire balance factor that washer.

Just a few grams oljohnno,just a few.



#91 EunUCh

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:16 AM

On a more serious note,I intend to cut the crankshaft up and weigh the counter balance and crank pin weights.

I will weigh them in water but my question is,do i I allow half the the main bearing journal as being part

of the weight or do i just subtract the journal weight/s from the measurements i get and treat the journal

as a mass that is rotating on it's axis that has no effect on the balance?



#92 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 09:45 AM

On a more serious note,I intend to cut the crankshaft up and weigh the counter balance and crank pin weights.

I will weigh them in water but my question is,do i I allow half the the main bearing journal as being part

of the weight or do i just subtract the journal weight/s from the measurements i get and treat the journal

as a mass that is rotating on it's axis that has no effect on the balance?

 

You'd ignore the main journals. But it's not quite as simple as just measuring the volumes of the crankpins and counterweights. The effective radius is also important. In the case of the counterweight it has a span of maybe 100o or more, and obviously the material near the ends of the arc isn't going to have the same effect as the material in line with the crankpin. So you have some sums to do in order to calculate the effective weight.

 

But I'm not sure if I'd even bother. You know it's going to be fairly underbalanced, and short of grinding excess material from the crankpins or filling it with expensive Mallory metal there's not a lot you can do about it. And that's assuming that the slugs will stay put in a cast crank anyway, something I'd be a bit doubtful of. I'd be inclined to leave the crank alone and just focus on reducing the reciprocating weight as much as possible. You can't go too far with it - the lighter the better - and any weight reduction will help with the vibration.



#93 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 08:15 PM

This might be a better crank option.

 

http://www.crankshaf...uilders.com.au/



#94 _barana_

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Posted 24 April 2013 - 08:56 PM

so What I should be aiming for is reeeealy lightweight rods, and carbon pistons ... can one get these made up or are they a VERY closed f1 only thing?

 

a flat /V four would be considered balanced then ?



#95 EunUCh

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Posted 25 April 2013 - 08:46 AM

The way I see it so far.

The shits of things have a balance problem.

Make the rods/pistons as light as possible,that can be done.

 

If the cranks on these things is underbalanced as suspected then by how much is the next thing to find out

which as already stated wont be easy.

 

We have a four cylinder crank which is flat,apparantly a four has pretty good primary balance due to 1,4 and 2,3 being 180

out and tend to "cancel" each other out to a point if my info is correct you could get away with no balance weight at all in that

respect.

 

Bar doing the what sounds like complex numbers to find the weight of the counterbalance weight and pin/throw weight what

if we take just one throw and balance weight and treat it as a single,get it close to right and do the same to the others?just a thought.



#96 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 25 April 2013 - 08:52 AM

The thing to remember is this: correcting the underbalance won't change the level of vibration, it'll only reduce the load on the journals, bearings and block.

 

In other words, if the bottom end is surviving OK as it is, you might as well leave it alone and focus your efforts on reducing the reciprocating mass. This will reduce the vibration level.



#97 EunUCh

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 11:53 AM

So far I have cut number 1 off and set it on knife edges,the crank pin is the heavy part even without any mock rotating mass attached

to the big end journal.

Its a wonder the thing has not broken more than things bolted to the block.

I can just imagine what 1&4 and 2&3 are doing to each other in certain positions and the main bearings

from the last engine show signs of wear in areas that confirm what appears to me as the crank flexing slightly in

tose positions.

I think it was a vicious plot by the designer to give the starfire a bad name.



#98 EunUCh

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 08:51 AM

Looks like I need a few ideas on where to go from here other than swap engines out.

Anyone got any bright ideas they might want to share on how to go about getting a bit of

balance into this thing without having an expert balance it only to have it come back the same?

 

 



#99 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 02:50 PM

The only relatively cheap and easy option I can think of is to put say 4 or 5 slugs of Mallory into each counterweight. Being a cast crank you'll have to be careful not to put them too close together or too close to the edge so they don't break out. It'd almost certainly still be underbalanced to some extent, but it'd be better. You'd also still want to take as much weight as possible out of the piston and rod.



#100 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 06:54 PM

Actually the more I think about this the more I'd be inclined to leave the crank alone and focus all my effort on reducing reciprocating weight.






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