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Are rim to hub locators needed?


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#1 _judgelj_

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 09:59 PM

G'day,

Bought some mags for the missus yarris and want to fit them and surprise her for her birthday. I've heard something about rim to hub adapters but not sure if they are a gimmick or not. Will the rim fit nicely otherwise or will i have problems? I've never used these for anything else but then again my cars have always been very different.

Cheers

#2 _dirtbag_

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 10:18 PM

Ideally the rim will fit snugly onto the stub that sticks out of the axle and front spindle, so the wheel studs/nuts are only holding the wheel on, not supporting the weight and load of the car. Lots of cars don't have this option, such as wide 5 VW's and FJ's etc, but if you can get some collars machined up I'd recommend it just for piece of mind.
Having said that, my convo pros have a massive hole in the centre and don't locate on the axle as they should, so I feel like a bit of a hypocrite!

#3 Stinga

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 10:26 PM

i will take those dangerous wheels off your hands Tim, i wont even charge you much for disposal!!

i bought some cheap chinese brass or copper collars for the volvo wheels i put on the uc. dont know if they do much, i think most wheel places sell plastic ones? just measure up the hub and wheel centre and go hunting

#4 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 10:33 PM

The sole purpose of the hub locater is to help centre the wheel on the hub, the final alignment of the rim to the hub is achieved by the wheel nuts. The hub locater can not and does not take any load once the nuts are tight as a result most hub adaptor rings are made of plastic.

Hub Rings

The factory wheels are a loose fit on the factory hub. If the sutb/hub was designed to take load then the stub and rim hub would have to be a taper or press fit.

If you are still not convinced then have a look at the setup on a car with factory wheels and you will see a gap between the rim and the stub. In some cases it may only be a few thou but you will be able to get a feeler gauge in the gap. The only way the stub could take load is if the wheel was able to move around and close the gap.

As long as you take care when fitting the wheels there is no problem with not having the hub locater other than it is a requirement in the NCOP.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 30 August 2012 - 10:45 PM.


#5 _dirtbag_

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 10:49 PM

It also depends on the size of the wheel. My father in law has a GMC sierra extra cab monster with 16x10 weld racing rims and 35 inch tyres. Until we machined collars to locate the wheels there was always a shake in the car. Now there isn't.

#6 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 02:28 AM

The locating rings are just making it easier to fit the wheel centrally on the axle. It gets harder to fit the wheels without the locating rings as the wheels get heavier. You should be able to get the same result without the locating rings, it will just take longer to fit the rim.

Once the wheel nuts at tight the rim is not going anywhere with or without the locating rings.

#7 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 09:54 AM

ls2lxhatch is correct, the sole purpose of the spigot is to correctly locate the wheel.

Whether you need to locate the wheel by the spigot or not depends on the wheel. Hub centric wheels use the spigot for location, lug centric wheels use the studs (with correct lugs/wheel nuts, note some are specialised to suit the purpose). A lot of modern wheels are machined to good tolerances so this distinction becomes a bit grey, but the manufacturer should be able to tell you.

#8 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 10:33 AM

Would there be any expansion due to heat from the brakes to fill the slighlty sloppy fit from the hub to wheel?? Or maybe thats allowed with the clearance?

#9 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 11:52 AM

Would there be any expansion due to heat from the brakes to fill the slighlty sloppy fit from the hub to wheel?? Or maybe thats allowed with the clearance?


The clearance is there so you can get the rim on and off without using a press.


Pin drive wheels are supported soley by the hub. The hub has distinct taper as does the nut. The wheel has matching tapers on both sides. The wheel is effectively is pressed onto the taper by the wheel nut.

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Edited by ls2lxhatch, 31 August 2012 - 11:57 AM.


#10 76lxhatch

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Posted 31 August 2012 - 01:47 PM

The concept is still the same though, the vertical force is applied at the appropriate location between the bearings, not at the spigot. You're just replacing five small studs with a single large one

#11 _judgelj_

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Posted 01 September 2012 - 08:10 PM

Hrm, i did think of vibration and loosening of wheel nuts but then again it could not be an issue at all.




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