Can anyone share some advice/experiences relating to removing dents and straightening stainless trims such as those on the LC/LJ Torana (drip rail and window trims).
I tried using a punch (bad idea), pinched the drip tray trim which has a curved profile. This may work on the square profile trims below the windows on the door but i have not tried. I'm thinking there are dollys for the job but i'm not sure and can't trial and error my only set. Suggestions on tooling and work surfaces would be good too!
Cheers in advance
Removing dents from and straightening stainless trim
Started by
_judgelj_
, Sep 24 2012 04:24 PM
18 replies to this topic
#2
wot179
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Posted 24 September 2012 - 05:38 PM
You will have to make dollys to suit.
I have used small hardwood blocks in the past to use as a drift from behind.
This is a highly skilled task,good luck with it.
I have used small hardwood blocks in the past to use as a drift from behind.
This is a highly skilled task,good luck with it.
#3
View GaragePosted 24 September 2012 - 05:39 PM
Have had some success using flat bar with a slightly rounded end onto blocks of wood before, unfortunately it kind of is a trial and error thing as you always seem to get a dent in a different spot and need a different shaped tool to get at it. Stay on the softer side (hitting against a wooden block seems to help a lot) so you don't stretch it, and try to work a larger rather than smaller area at once (so something much wider than the punch)
#4
_judgelj_
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Posted 24 September 2012 - 06:45 PM
That helps quite a bit. The more i look into it the more i realise there is a lot to it and no easy way out. Perhaps what i can try is to make some of my own dollys out of wood.
I was told about nylon hammers of some sort but then again these are very delicate pieces and would not need a big hit to get them straight. The bloke who restored my grille got the dents out without a sign of them every being there i cannot believe it. I always thought there is a crease left by any panel beating no matter what as the metal stretches and does no contract.
I was told about nylon hammers of some sort but then again these are very delicate pieces and would not need a big hit to get them straight. The bloke who restored my grille got the dents out without a sign of them every being there i cannot believe it. I always thought there is a crease left by any panel beating no matter what as the metal stretches and does no contract.
#5
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Posted 24 September 2012 - 07:51 PM
I have made some nylon dollies/bits out of an old kitchen cutting board to use to tap out dents in trims. I've shaped and smoothed them to suit the mould I'm repairing. I use them like a wedge and hit the wedge with a light panel hammer, using either a sandbag or a block of soft pine to back up the moulding. It's delicate work though but it can be done with a careful touch for not much financial outlay .
#6
Ruts
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Posted 24 September 2012 - 07:53 PM
There is actually a DVD you can buy that shows you how to repair stainless trims. The only problem is that I can't remember where I saw it.
Edited by Ruts, 24 September 2012 - 07:54 PM.
#7
StephenSLR
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Posted 24 September 2012 - 08:15 PM
#8
_judgelj_
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Posted 24 September 2012 - 09:53 PM
Oh wow i didn't even think of youtube, to be honest sometimes i underestimate the variety of videos it has to offer.
Will give them a watch but im already starting to form some ideas in my head. I think one of the blokes here made a tool to do it but i dont think i have the patience.
Will give them a watch but im already starting to form some ideas in my head. I think one of the blokes here made a tool to do it but i dont think i have the patience.
#9
StephenSLR
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Posted 25 September 2012 - 09:34 AM
im already starting to form some ideas in my head. I think one of the blokes here made a tool to do it but i dont think i have the patience.
Check out this tool.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhlG44GxVzg
s
Edited by StephenSLR, 25 September 2012 - 09:39 AM.
#10
_judgelj_
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Posted 25 September 2012 - 03:32 PM
one way to reinvent a pin punch. some how i can't take it too seriously. he looks to be pushing pretty hard, i don't know how this doesn't stretch the metal?
#11
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Posted 25 September 2012 - 04:52 PM
#12
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Posted 25 September 2012 - 05:23 PM
I fitted the gutter mould to 'purple'..... FAIL! 
#13
StephenSLR
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Posted 25 September 2012 - 05:27 PM
he looks to be pushing pretty hard, i don't know how this doesn't stretch the metal?
I think he means in comparison to other methods where you have to beat a much larger area.
Not sure why the vid didn't work in my link.
s
#14
Posted 25 September 2012 - 05:34 PM
Strange thing to say to begin with isn't it, its not much good if you can't stretch the metal with it (when desired). There are heaps of things like this out there but you can get the same results by hand with a hammer and some sort of tooling that doesn't cost you each time you need a different shape - scrap steel is free and its not hard to make almost anything you need.i don't know how this doesn't stretch the metal?
#15
_judgelj_
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Posted 25 September 2012 - 09:29 PM
Mate i think you know what i meant... Stretched beyond what he intended. Just looks like he has to apply a lot of pressure. I wouldn't be convinced unless i saw it done in person.
#16
Posted 26 September 2012 - 06:52 AM
I meant its strange for them to say it, its like saying "our tool won't damage anything because it doesn't do anything"...
Obviously its a nicety that would be useful in a situation where its difficult to control the force applied and this allows a bit more control and finesse. I don't think its necessary though as it can still be done with a hammer and punch (or suitable custom shaped "tool").
Obviously its a nicety that would be useful in a situation where its difficult to control the force applied and this allows a bit more control and finesse. I don't think its necessary though as it can still be done with a hammer and punch (or suitable custom shaped "tool").
#17
StephenSLR
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Posted 26 September 2012 - 09:00 AM
you can get the same results by hand with a hammer and some sort of tooling that doesn't cost you each time you need a different shape
My guess is there'd be one or two shapes that you'd use the most and having another shaped piece at the ready would be more convenient than spending time to make up something custom.
s
#18
Posted 26 September 2012 - 11:28 AM
That's true for general panel work but once you get into the finicky stuff like this you end up making something different nearly every time. When I say tooling I just mean shaped pieces of steel or whatever works, the difference with enthusiasts is that we're happy to spend 10-15 minutes making something so that the end result is as close to perfect as possible rather than just selecting the nearest match off the shelf
#19
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Posted 26 September 2012 - 01:14 PM
we're happy to spend 10-15 minutes making something so that the end result is as close to perfect as possible
That's what it's all about.
s
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