13 replies to this topic

[TerrA LX]

You have to inform the guy what brakes you need, AFIK it is only the axle bearing and seal (read spacing) that is different.

[ls2lxhatch]

Commodore studs are larger than HQ and the pattern is close so Commodore rear VN-VS disc rotors will fit over HQ studs. The Commodore rear disc rotor is a loose fit on the Commodore studs as the disc rotor is centred by the axle hub not the studs. As long as the axle has a hub to centre the rear disc rotor the Commodore rear disc rotor is fine on HQ stud.

Check the clearance between the shock and the rear disc calliper, on most conversions the Commodore rear disc calliper can not be mounted behind the axle. You need at least 10 mm clearance to allow for pad wear.

In this picture the calliper will hit the shock when the brakes are applied.




Some people swap the plates left to right which mounts the calliper in front of the axle. This solves the shock clearance problem but then the calliper is in the way of the handbrake cable. The handbrake cable bracket can be modified to work.

Picture from this thread.



Some people move the shock further inboard.

Pictures from this thread







I originally just made my diff wider to accommodate the Commodore calliper. I have since had a change of plans with the shocks so I am modifying the backing plates to mount the calliper in the 10 o'clock position.



[Torviki] How To Rig Up A Hand Brake On A Lh/x With Commodore Rear Discs

Personally I hate the VN-VS handbrake mechanism inside the disc. Another option is to use the Skyline rear brakes although drilling the HQ pattern into the disc could cause engineering problems. Blank Skyline discs are not easy to find. Apparently the Commodore calliper and pad selection is better however this is probably not an issue for a street car The Skyline calliper has an integrated handbrake mechanism.



http://www.gmh-toran...ndpost&p=453104

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 12 October 2012 - 03:16 AM.

[dattoman]

No you can't shave bits off the caliper
And when the pads wear the calipers move even closer... so you'll never fix it with a few mm anyway


Make the pics smaller and refer how to upload pics thread
http://www.gmh-toran...s-on-this-site/

[ls2lxhatch]

Gday , i have the same issue with my final drive built 9 inch to vn caliper clearance. Currently have about 2mm, how much can u shave off the caliper? Its close right at the base of the caliper where there seems to be a reservoir tube built into the back of the caliper. Cant seem to upload photo's there too big, any hints on that?

This method is probably the simplest solution to your problem.

Some people swap the backing plates left to right which mounts the calliper in front of the axle. This solves the shock clearance problem but then the calliper is in the way of the handbrake cable. The handbrake cable bracket can be modified to work.

Picture and more details in this thread. It is also a Perth car.

[ls2lxhatch]

Fitting the shoes is difficult but should not require grinding.

See if you can mount the shoes in the correct position with the shoe retaining clips but without the springs first. Leaving the springs off will make it easy to move things around.

A picture of your setup would help.

[ls2lxhatch]

how come i didnt have any of these problems on either of mine???.
my just bolted on and work perfect?????

It may depend on your axles.

My Moser axles don't have holes in the right place to access the axle retainer plate nuts. The axles have to be bolted in before you fit the handbrake shoes which makes it a little bit more difficult to fit the shoes.

If you have axles with the holes in the right place then you can fit the backing plates with the shoes mounted and then just slide the axle in and bolt it up.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 10 February 2013 - 03:13 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

I have commodore pattern flanges on my 9".

If you still have Ford flanges then I can see why you would have problems. You may need to change the flanges or choose different brakes.