G'day,
Just after some information on the cost of rebuilding SU carbs. Now I know the in order to have any luck tuning then properly they will need a lot of attention. My question is how do I know how far to go with them? The prices I got so far was 170 or so per carb for a rebuild including needles etc. And 900 for to bring them back to new which included new butterfly's and something about not re bushing them and doing it properly. Does this seem ball park? How do I know wether I need to actually spend the 900 rather than just get them re kitted?
Cheers
Triple SU rebuild cost.
Started by
_judgelj_
, Dec 19 2012 01:54 PM
42 replies to this topic
#2
hanra
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 01:56 PM
Contact Midel for a serivice kit. Just a few gaskets, a jet and a needle and seat. Maybe $30 worth.
What are your throttle shafts like? Any excess play?
What are your throttle shafts like? Any excess play?
#3
ljv8
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 02:47 PM
Hi Jacob sounds about right I had a set rebuilt by John at Wilsons carburettors from memory it was $1000 for all three.
That is a full rebuild new bushings shafts butterfly's needles pretty much everything. Got a bag full of old bits that had to be replaced.
Came up a treat and hopefully won't have to touch them ever again.
Probably best you take them to someone like John for advice he will be able to give you an indication of what they need and will cost.
But if u don't have the budget and the shafts have no play then yeah you might get away with just a service kit.
Steve
That is a full rebuild new bushings shafts butterfly's needles pretty much everything. Got a bag full of old bits that had to be replaced.
Came up a treat and hopefully won't have to touch them ever again.
Probably best you take them to someone like John for advice he will be able to give you an indication of what they need and will cost.
But if u don't have the budget and the shafts have no play then yeah you might get away with just a service kit.
Steve
#4
_judgelj_
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 03:32 PM
Yeah this is exactly my dilemma. I have no problem spending 1k to take them to brand new as I know that any issues I encounter cannot be a result of aged components. But on the other hand cheaper is better so I am more inclined to go with hanras advice. Just have to work out a way to decide what I need. Perhaps I should do as you suggested and take them somewhere to be inspected and I can go from there. I have read that these can be problematic for people who re kit them, not bothering to fix worn mechanicals.
Cheers
Cheers
#5
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 06:44 PM
Depends on the condition of your shaft bushings, period. Mine owe me about $1500, but thats including fuel pump, regulator, trumpets, filters, polishing, etc etc.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#6
_Agent 34_
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 06:56 PM
I'll add three cents to this;
if all the linkages are there then this is good. if not you may need to source the following bit's;
linkages - redline $100
if you use a " high volume fuel " pump then a regulator is required - i know this is a fact with CD's - just go normal pump
or standard pump - no regulator
so just be carefull with the pump choice. PS i'm far from an expert but just check first on this.
i think that in some instances it like this;
if you have to spend 50 - 60 dollars an hour with a mechanic trying to sort a carby problem out, it gets costly quick and by the time it's all done with testing and stuff it could be 200 - 300 dollars and then there is still problems with air leakage and stuff.
it's cheaper to get them done and then your starting point is a lot closer between the brackets.
i have been getting mine done and we are stuck on a " leaver " that we will have to make up, the rest is done.
If you have nothing to loose and a good person to help then have a go yourself.
If you can built that clutch pedal in a different shape then I'm sure that you can do this.
grant
if all the linkages are there then this is good. if not you may need to source the following bit's;
linkages - redline $100
if you use a " high volume fuel " pump then a regulator is required - i know this is a fact with CD's - just go normal pump
or standard pump - no regulator
so just be carefull with the pump choice. PS i'm far from an expert but just check first on this.
i think that in some instances it like this;
if you have to spend 50 - 60 dollars an hour with a mechanic trying to sort a carby problem out, it gets costly quick and by the time it's all done with testing and stuff it could be 200 - 300 dollars and then there is still problems with air leakage and stuff.
it's cheaper to get them done and then your starting point is a lot closer between the brackets.
i have been getting mine done and we are stuck on a " leaver " that we will have to make up, the rest is done.
If you have nothing to loose and a good person to help then have a go yourself.
If you can built that clutch pedal in a different shape then I'm sure that you can do this.
grant
Edited by Agent 34, 19 December 2012 - 06:57 PM.
#7
GTR469
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 07:13 PM
Give Nigel at extreme fuel systems a call.
#8
hanra
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 07:30 PM
Or SU Midel.
Edited by hanra, 19 December 2012 - 07:32 PM.
#9
_Agent 34_
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 07:39 PM
Give Nigel at extreme fuel systems a call.
Nigels doing mine at the moment. nice guy to do business with.
#10
rodomo
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Posted 19 December 2012 - 08:27 PM
Nearest to you woulld be Wilson carburettors in Airport West. John or Allan
http://www.yellowpag...29-listing.html
http://www.yellowpag...29-listing.html
Edited by rodomo, 19 December 2012 - 08:29 PM.
#11
_judgelj_
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Posted 27 December 2012 - 05:50 PM
Firstly sorry I have not replied for some reason I was not subscribed to the topic.
Well I will definitely give wilsons a shot, I have spoken to bayswater carbs and thornbury carbs. The bloke from the second shop seemed really switched on and said it would be 900 for a no corners cut rebuild. I would definitely rebuild them myself if it was a simple put together but in all honesty I don't know much about carbs so I wouldn't know what is excessive when it comes to play. For this reason I think I should give them to a pro. My only worry is paying close to 1k for rebushing that I may not need, hopefully who ever I speak to will be honest enough to tell me.
900 isn't a great amount as they did not cost me anything, as long as I know I'm not paying more than others are.
Cheers
Well I will definitely give wilsons a shot, I have spoken to bayswater carbs and thornbury carbs. The bloke from the second shop seemed really switched on and said it would be 900 for a no corners cut rebuild. I would definitely rebuild them myself if it was a simple put together but in all honesty I don't know much about carbs so I wouldn't know what is excessive when it comes to play. For this reason I think I should give them to a pro. My only worry is paying close to 1k for rebushing that I may not need, hopefully who ever I speak to will be honest enough to tell me.
900 isn't a great amount as they did not cost me anything, as long as I know I'm not paying more than others are.
Cheers
#12
_judgelj_
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Posted 24 January 2013 - 05:20 PM
Well, i dropped them off at Wilsons today to be rebuilt. They're going to cost around 1100 which includes water blasting. I couldnt decide between wilson's and thornbury so i took it to whoever was closer. He said the bodies will have a nice matte polished finish and thats as much as they can be polished.
Have any of you had the bodies polished to a gloss shine?
Have any of you had the bodies polished to a gloss shine?
#14
_judgelj_
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Posted 24 January 2013 - 08:23 PM
Did you do it yourself? Are they hard to maintain. Are the pics in your thread?
#15
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 24 January 2013 - 09:46 PM
Payed someone to do it, would do it myself now days as i now have the gear.
When first done about six years ago, on the old engine
And recently on the current engine
Dont actually have any direct current picks of the carbs handy, but they have tarnished a bit, i've never bothered re polishing them though. Did quickly hit the dashpots and the manifold with some purple before fitting though.
Cheers.
When first done about six years ago, on the old engine
And recently on the current engine
Dont actually have any direct current picks of the carbs handy, but they have tarnished a bit, i've never bothered re polishing them though. Did quickly hit the dashpots and the manifold with some purple before fitting though.
Cheers.
#16
_judgelj_
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Posted 25 January 2013 - 07:46 AM
I can't make up my mind between polished and matte finish on the bodies.
How much did it cost roughy if you don't mine me asking. PM is ok. Seems like a lot of work!!
How much did it cost roughy if you don't mine me asking. PM is ok. Seems like a lot of work!!
#17
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 25 January 2013 - 09:28 AM
$300 for carb bodies, float bowls, bowl tops, dashpots and manifold.
I think if i was to do it agin i'd leave the bodies a nice bead blasted finish and polish the rest though.
Cheers.
I think if i was to do it agin i'd leave the bodies a nice bead blasted finish and polish the rest though.
Cheers.
#18
_stretchlc_
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Posted 25 January 2013 - 10:33 AM
Heres some I've rebuilt and polished myself over the years.
Attached Files
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SU's.jpg 123.29K
6 downloads
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SU's 2.jpg 129.23K
3 downloads
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SU 3.jpg 63.09K
3 downloads
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SU.3..jpg 69.1K
3 downloads
#19
_judgelj_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 01:42 PM
I don't know why my subscription status keeps changing, I thought no one was replying so I started another thread. But just to add to this I think the polished bodies looks good but depends on how blindly the engine bay is.
DJ how we're the bodies polished in the first place? Blasting on wheel?
DJ how we're the bodies polished in the first place? Blasting on wheel?
#20
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 02:19 PM
Just with a wheel mate, and a little felt pad for some of the tricky bits on a dremel type tool.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#21
_judgelj_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:01 PM
Were***
Yeah still looks like a prick to do. Spose I can always do it down the track cant i? do they need to be disassembled? might leave it for now. Cheers anyway. Do I need a reg with mech fuel pump?
Yeah still looks like a prick to do. Spose I can always do it down the track cant i? do they need to be disassembled? might leave it for now. Cheers anyway. Do I need a reg with mech fuel pump?
Edited by judgelj, 27 January 2013 - 05:05 PM.
#22
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:28 PM
Yes, you will need to run them at 2.5-3psi
#23
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:32 PM
Yes you'll need a high volume fuel pump (Chev 6 HV mech pumps are perfect) and a regulator.
edit: lol didn't see Bomber's reply, I took too long to post
edit: lol didn't see Bomber's reply, I took too long to post
Edited by SLEDGE, 27 January 2013 - 05:33 PM.
#24
_judgelj_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:34 PM
I can't get away with a standard comma mech pump?
#25
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:48 PM
You can, if the donk is pretty stockish
If its not $50 for a SBC pump is cheap bolt on insurance, may require some minor grinding......
If its not $50 for a SBC pump is cheap bolt on insurance, may require some minor grinding......
Edited by Bomber Watson, 27 January 2013 - 05:48 PM.
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