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Help! 308 running hot

New alloy radiator

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#151 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:20 PM

They do spin both ways ,I tried it today = if I put the wires Red---Red ,Black----Black the fans spin clockwise ( standing infront of the car)


If I put the Wires Red---Black,Red---Black they then spin Anticlockwise but im almost positve that both ways I could feel the air pumping toward the front of the car, which makes no sense!!!!?. I bought these many moons ago from Browns Radiators over here in W.A they told me they were original AU fans yet I see they have stickers on them " Made In Korea, Kamco ,licence Bosch" maybe these fans are knock off's just made all wrong!?

I have to re-test tomorrow,Im getting pretty tired of this car now..

Edited by 76S.L.R, 06 January 2013 - 10:23 PM.


#152 REDA9X

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:26 PM

PLEASE take some pictures and post them up

#153 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 10:40 PM

I'll try as best I can to get a pic of the fans tomorrow and post some pics up I have already taken pics of the radiator/engine bay

Edited by 76S.L.R, 06 January 2013 - 10:41 PM.


#154 S pack

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:31 AM

You shouldn't need to have the engine running to test the fans. Just put the ignition switch in whichever position energizes the relays and remove the trigger wire from the thermo switch. Depending upon what type of switch you have the fans will either come on when you disconnect the wire or you will need to ground the wire.

The fan blades are pitched so they must push the air in one direction of rotation and pull the air in the opposite direction.
Using smoke to test the direction of the air flow would be better.

#155 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:44 AM

Ive just looked at Ebay Auctions for AU fans and mine are NOT AU Fans!!!,I was told at the time I bought them they were Genuine but are not

#156 S pack

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 01:00 AM

Ive just looked at Ebay Auctions for AU fans and mine are NOT AU Fans!!!,I was told at the time I bought them they were Genuine but are not


Either you got ripped off or you were sold Genuine reproduction fake AU type/style/almost the same as fans.
In any case, whether or not they are genuine or not, the blades will/should be pitched. So they will/should function as I described 2 posts back.

#157 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 02:43 AM

If you have Bosch motors then you have original AU fans. The aftermarket fans do not have Bosch motors.

#158 hanra

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:56 AM

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#159 myss427

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 07:51 AM

Put the fans on, and drop a tissue in front, that will tell you if they are pushing or pulling.

#160 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:05 PM

I just tested the fans by earthing the fan sensor wire and putting a bit of paper at the front of the radiator = it sucks the paper onto the radiator really hard!.

So they were actually spinning the right way in the first place!( im retarded,if I tested with paper in the first place I could have avoided all the messing about!) so theres nothing else left now but to assume theres a Crack in a head or a Head Gasket is Gone. Great,looks like its staying parked up again as I have no money left!!

Edited by 76S.L.R, 07 January 2013 - 12:06 PM.


#161 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 12:44 PM

If the heads are cracked or the gaskets blown then there would either be oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Both of which should be reasonably obvious.

#162 _torbirdie_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 01:07 PM

I just tested the fans by earthing the fan sensor wire and putting a bit of paper at the front of the radiator = it sucks the paper onto the radiator really hard!.

So they were actually spinning the right way in the first place!( im retarded,if I tested with paper in the first place I could have avoided all the messing about!) so theres nothing else left now but to assume theres a Crack in a head or a Head Gasket is Gone. Great,looks like its staying parked up again as I have no money left!!

Hmm, a lot here condemning your auto elec before you'd had even done that so don't feel so bad about it. You've learnt heaps......okay little consolation but dont be in too much of a hurry to change things.

I dont know that you can assume now there is nothing else? You have mentioned your new rad is doing the same thing as your crapped out rad, how are you sure as to the quality of this rad, maybe its not up to the job? We really dont know if its your motor putting out too much heat or the rad not transferring enough of it.


There isn't really an easy test as a consumer to do to test the rad for its heat rejection, though you are yet to get hold of Ir sensor and see how many degrees difference you have between top and bottom of the rad.

One thing you can do that will cost next to nicks and has been suggested before is to try an engine fan, not suggesting this is what you want as a permanent solution, but if it runs cooler at cruise with the engine fan its an indicator that a better radiator will improve things. Most likely you still have the four bladed fan still lying around, or better still the 7blade clutch fan? .

#163 Ice

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 01:47 PM

If you want the number of a good auto sparky just pm me only problems is he is miles away from you

Has worked on my cars for 25 years never let me down once

#164 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 02:06 PM

So to test the effectiveness of the radiator I need to get one of the laser pointer temp gun thingees and see the difference between top and bottom radiator hoses= yes?

I dont have a Clutch fan anymore, I dont know what happened to it!?, when I put the Thermo fans in ive chucked the normal fan somewhere and nowhere to be found,chucked out???.

I did some tests yesterday to see how accurate my aftermarket temp guage is by comparing the readings on that and putting a thermometer into the radiator while the car was hot, the temp guage in car is reading 10 degrees higher that the actual coolant them is,but I suspect just about all aftermarket guages will read a bit out of whack?..

Edited by 76S.L.R, 07 January 2013 - 02:08 PM.


#165 _torbirdie_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 02:51 PM

So to test the effectiveness of the radiator I need to get one of the laser pointer temp gun thingees and see the difference between top and bottom radiator hoses= yes?

I dont have a Clutch fan anymore, I dont know what happened to it!?, when I put the Thermo fans in ive chucked the normal fan somewhere and nowhere to be found,chucked out???.

I did some tests yesterday to see how accurate my aftermarket temp guage is by comparing the readings on that and putting a thermometer into the radiator while the car was hot, the temp guage in car is reading 10 degrees higher that the actual coolant them is,but I suspect just about all aftermarket guages will read a bit out of whack?..


I dont have any firm numbers on how much difference you ought to see in temp with the water flow at idle or some other rpm and the fans going flat out, ball park would expect to see 5+ degrees for a good radiator at idle, less at higher rpm, but once you have some data you can compare this with any other radiator that you put in or results that others have observed.

In the absence of precision thermometers it should be possible to calibrate your gauge based on your thermostat temp, when the gauge first levels out should be your thermostat opening temp +/- a couple of degrees. If conditions are really hot and it keeps getting hotter, hose down the radiator(gently at 1st) with the engine running and see what the lowest value the gauge drops to, that will be your thermostat temp.

Edited by torbirdie, 07 January 2013 - 02:56 PM.


#166 _The Baron_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 03:03 PM

Also with my thermo fans, they are mounted on the back of the radiator and are currently pushing air to the front of the car, I thought this might be the cause of the overheating ie pushing the air instead of pulling it but ive done some googling and suposedly it makes hardly any difference at all??....


Hmm, a lot here condemning your auto elec before you'd had even done that so don't feel so bad about it. You've learnt heaps......okay little consolation but dont be in too much of a hurry to change things.


On the evidence presented you would think the autoelec got it wrong.....no?

#167 _torbirdie_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 03:16 PM

On the evidence presented you would think the autoelec got it wrong.....no?


well yes the question was raised, but condemning the autoelec without further investigation?, ie waiting to see the results of reversing connections or paper test was premature.

#168 _Quagmire_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 04:06 PM

my mate can do a compression test to confirm or deny the head gaskets as being a cause
he's cheap and goes to rocko reguraly
but unless it's using water or the oil is milky i doubt it is a issue yet
another test is to get the rad guys to pressure test the system to 20 odd psi to expose any leaks
it should be under the 50 buck mark to get this done

#169 _The Baron_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 04:13 PM

Yep, right O birdie, any way back to the think tank task at hand, where to now?

Do we tick the fans off the list and should the temperature switch be investigated? Is there an override switch?

Should the radiator be investigated further however was not the problem there before the radiator was upgraded?

Still thinking head gasket/cracked head?

Aren't cars just soooo much fun!


Oops- spelling fixed - don't want to attract attention now! ;)

Edited by The Baron, 07 January 2013 - 04:18 PM.


#170 _torbirdie_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 04:32 PM

Yep, right O birdie, any way back to the think tank task at hand, where to now?

Do we tick the fans off the list and should the temperture switch be investigated? Is there an override switch?

Should the radiator be investigated further however was not the problem there before the radiator was upgraded?

Still thinking head gasket/cracked head?

Aren't cars just soooo much fun ;P


The old rad apparently deteriorated to create the same observations, but supposedly did the job adequately previously.

Hopefully op will get back to us with a revised idea of what his temp gauge's real readings are and whether the fans are switching on in the 95 deg range, which I believe is fine, they should only be there for the 1% of the time when the car isn't moving and it's not that imperative that its operating at its optimum temp while stationary, it's certainly not going to sustain any damage.

Cracked head?, there are no symptoms of oil in water or vice versa, but there was a suggestion of stranger bubbling in rad? Exhaust getting into coolant, there is a test for exhaust gases in the coolant?

Would this perhaps not show up in a cold engine coolant pressure test or perhaps it would seal backup and not reveal itself, the op has not mentioned any coolant loss. Perhaps an engine off hot pressure test, would reveal that, but possibly only cylinder value type pressures (150+ psi)maybe getting through and testing the cooling system to even 20psi may reveal nothing.

Trying a rad of known capabilities would be my first choice but for the op this is probably not an option

Edited by torbirdie, 07 January 2013 - 04:45 PM.


#171 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 04:41 PM

Results are in!!! ,I bought a laser pointer temp gun and this is what happened

Fans not going,car idling= top hose: 66 c and bottom hose 61 c

Fans going for a while = Top Hose 61 c and bottom Hose 51 c

I took another reading with the temp gun in the radiator and compared to my temp gauge in car = it reads 20 degrees hotter on the temp gauge!.

It loses a little coolant from the overflow bottle often,I have tested for head gasket leaks before using my TEE KAY Head Check http://precisiontool...k-head-check/54 = no signs of head gasket leak??,the fans whirl away for ages and again its only bringing the temp down 10 degrees though I now know my temp gauge is reading out....

I'll have to get my cooling system pressure checked I think?

Edited by 76S.L.R, 07 January 2013 - 04:45 PM.


#172 _torbirdie_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 04:50 PM

So what is your ir sensor recording on the thermostat cover, and what temp thermostat are you using?

Also forget to mention, the rad temp drop measurements only mean something when the thermostat is wide open.

A 5C temp difference with no airflow would suggest that stat wasn't wide open

Did you fans trigger by the temp switch here or did you have to turn them on manually.


If you've done the teekay test then I dont see any value in any other pressure tests. Minor external leaks wont have any effect other than having to top up the coolant periodically.

But encouraging you may not I have a rad or eng prob at all, just gauge and temp switch perhaps

Edited by torbirdie, 07 January 2013 - 05:00 PM.


#173 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 05:15 PM

I didnt test the IR Temp gun on thermostat cover,Thermostat is an 82c Hi Flow Trident;

First readings ( fans not going) thermostat was still closed.

The second readings(fans going )was with Thermostat open and fans been running a few mins to get an indication of top and bottom hose temp variation.


Fans triggered by the thermo switch when doing these readings( thermo switch has 80 /85 stamped on it)

Edited by 76S.L.R, 07 January 2013 - 05:18 PM.


#174 _torbirdie_

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 05:23 PM

I didnt test the IR Temp gun on thermostat cover,Thermostat is an 82c Hi Flow Trident;

First readings ( fans not going) thermostat was still closed.

The second readings(fans going )was with Thermostat open and fans been running a few mins to get an indication of top and bottom hose temp variation.


Fans triggered by the thermo switch when doing these readings( thermo switch has 80 /85 stamped on it)


just concerned that the readings of the hoses although they give a good indication of the differences may not be the real actual values. Get some readings of the metal parts of the engine, top tank radiator , bottom tank radiator

#175 REDA9X

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 05:48 PM

I copied this from when I was having problems. It should give you an idea of the temperatures when it's working correctly


I did some interesting tests today with the factory aircon radiator fitted at idle and the fan on.
at idle with the auto choke still engauged the car idled at 1000rpm
at 1/4 on the gauge it sat on
74Degrees C at the thermostat housing
top hose was 73 to 70 DC (moving from thermostat housing towards the radiator)
top tank 82-75DC ( moving from the inlet across the top of the tank)
bottom hose was 75DC.

At idle of 750rpm at 3/8 on the gauge it was (as above)
78
77-75
85-79
78

At idle at 1/2 on the gauge
80
80-78
88-81
80

At idle at 5/8 on the gauge
88
88-83
88-81
80

to get the car to go to 3/4 I had to turn the fan off ( thats a first)
When it reached 3/4 the revs automatically came up to 1000RPM and the fan automatically kicked in. The switch says 95 degees C (which it was exactly)
temps were
93
91-89
100-96
92.

Looks like it's working correctly now to me, the test will be going for a drive along the M4 and seeing what it does at speed. It was interesting to get a good comparison between the gauge markings and actual temp.
180-190 degees F is the correct running temp, so about 82-88DC, so looks good so far.





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