Pretty sure none of the Holden V8s have block learn for spark, only for fuel trim (stored in ECU memory, not written back to the memcal). Spark is just retarded from immediate knock counts from the sensor/circuit.Well there you go I will stand corrected, I was told that the V8 VR HSV was the first to have knock sensors & rewrite to the memcal to correct fuel table and spark curves.
#76
Posted 24 November 2013 - 09:07 PM
#77
Posted 30 November 2013 - 09:20 AM
Had a good week on the Torrie. Mostly, anyway.
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Out came the K-frame, in went the CAE headers - passenger side hits slightly on starter and outrigger, so will adjust, otherwise a good fit! Fitted new knock sensor and wiring, the dipstick, set up the original fuel line as a return line (will run a new fuel line down the passenger side of the car), new unis in the tailshaft, new brake line for PSF, fitted the modified heater box (looks crap though, so I need to work over), and then I went to stick the k-frame back in, rushed it, and got it wrong. I will take a deep breath and do it Monday.
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There's a bit to do on Monday, especially as this turned up:
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I'm too excited to sleep much at the moment..
#78
Posted 30 November 2013 - 10:21 AM
I'm hanging out to see if your extractors fit around the x-member.
#79
Posted 30 November 2013 - 10:30 AM
#80 _LS1 Taxi_
Posted 30 November 2013 - 10:43 AM
Your fuel tank. Want.
#81
Posted 30 November 2013 - 01:09 PM
Your fuel tank. Want.
Well, we will see how my one works out, and if it works well, Murray may do more. I am hoping it does..
#82
Posted 02 December 2013 - 10:33 AM
#83
Posted 02 December 2013 - 03:13 PM
#84
Posted 03 December 2013 - 08:20 AM
Did you have your K-frame checked for square too make sure it' didn't have a twist in it,
I had mine done and they said it was about 2-3mm out.
#85
Posted 03 December 2013 - 10:32 AM
#86
Posted 04 December 2013 - 07:37 AM
#87
Posted 07 December 2013 - 06:55 AM
Hi Mort,
go to page 336 of this: http://www.members.w...gskev/parts.pdf
which is the LX parts manual (thanks to GML-31). You'll see the right way to install the outrigger bushes. I thought I read somewhere that the manual was wrong, but this appears to be right. Someone please tell me if I am wrong!!
#88 _UFO304_
Posted 15 December 2013 - 11:13 AM
Nice work!!!
#89
Posted 31 December 2013 - 03:15 PM
I just ran some Aeroflow alloy fuel line as my majn supply line from the new droptank to the 304i engine, and after having done it, I am not sure how happy I am with alloy fuel line for efi. I think I will go steel after all, but does anyone have an opinion either way? The alloy line just seems so flimsy for something so vital and carrying high pressure fuel.
#90
Posted 28 July 2014 - 10:33 PM
Wow, where did seven months go? I was flying along there, then I started a new job which I ended up not enjoying very much. I put my efforts into getting out of there and back into working with bikes, and now I have managed that again, it's back to the Torrie.
I have been harassing various members over the past couple of months for input, and as usual have got valid answers that help alot.
My aim is to get the drivetrain and wiring all done and working while finishing off the basic bodywork, then pull it all out for final panel and paint. That way I am not drilling into fresh paint or trying to make things that don't fit, fit.
The below are random pics of progress, but not all. It is getting there, though of course there are the usual setbacks too.
Basically, the wiring is all but done - the oil pressure gauge is wired up,along with the tacho, water temp, etc, though I am yet to start the car again and test them for real. The dash is plugged in though, and ready for the start up.
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Started fitting flares. I need to get it on the ground and roll it out of the garage so I can see them from side on properly before final drilling and cutting. The door fits well with nice gaps though - but I don't have the door internals in for weight. Should I?
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I have run the battery cable under the car, but not happy with its routing, so doing the back half of it again with bolts through the floor, unless anyone else has a better suggestion? I don't want to run it inside the car.
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Droptank in, wired up and plumbed up (thanks Axistr). Looks grouse (my fave '80s word) and the pumps prime when I turn the ignition on.I haven't put fuel in yet, because I need to cut and weld the rear guards for flares, and don't want to have to pull everything out to do it. The cutting isn't far away, so I will fuel it up and start it when the flares are done. Good incentive...
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New rad support in. We actually took off the outer and welded it in place, as the original was fine and it was easier doing it this way.
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My good mate Hammo turns out to be an experienced file finisher/panel beater. I've known him for ages and never knew. He turned up one night with speed file, hammers and dollies and kicked off file finishing the roof and rear quarters. There's a bit to go there, but it's looking good, and been fun doing it with him. The fart jokes have got a bit excessive, but, well, we're blokes.
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Fitted the battery box. I will be running a dry cell battery, and my engineer is fine with it not being vented, but did want it secured to the floor properly. I also fitted an isolator. I used a proper electrical bung to get the cable through the boot floor, which also weather-proofs it. Yet to finish the cable routing as mentioned, but otherwise it's done. I just need a battery (it will fit, I checked).
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Right, back on the bloody tools, and I want this done asap. I am packing the three kids off for a weekend soon to work on the house, ahhh, yeah, that's what I will be doing...
#91 _A9X UC_
Posted 28 July 2014 - 11:38 PM
My motor is a VS series 3 with a knock sensor
The block has provision for 2 knock sensors just one had a tappered bung in it
Same deal with the sump. Swapped them around and left the sensor out
Found out 2 days later i had a tiny water leak from the side of the block comming from where the knock sensor was suspose to be
Might pay to leave it in
#92
Posted 29 July 2014 - 04:56 PM
#93 _A9X UC_
Posted 12 August 2014 - 09:42 PM
#94
Posted 01 March 2015 - 08:07 PM
Another promise of "getting into it" and another 8 months gone... Anyway, I have been doing stuff, but as all you family guys know, time is more expensive/elusive than a 3000hp engine re-build. I have managed the below, (with links to important things):
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I cut and welded the guards. I used Ruts awesome thread for most of it, but used a plate in other areas. I kind of wish I had a third rear quarter to cut becasue I got better each time, but the end result was reasonably neat and will do the job. I have some Sikaflex to seam seal it from the the inside once I have some Epotech in there. I used weld thru primer throughout and hit the lot with rust converter, etc.
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This is my budget welding set up. The torch is a bit fiddly, but the gas lasted through the two guards. Now I am used to it and have it set up well (thanks to a mate who knows more than I do), it's good enough for what I need it for.
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I bought a bonnet scoop off Ernicks, as they use the old Wilsons moulds, same as my flares. It fitted on well, except for the front bit where the crease in the bonnet goes. The fibreglass extends too far on one side of the indent on the scoop, but a quick file will fix that. It will need filler to get it straight too, there's a few lows. I fitted it with the sides pushed together a little to try and give it the right shape, which helped, but it needs a bit of work. I am not sure what to use as a fitting kit, but am thinking hex head stainless at this point. Those are just self-tappers in there for now, until I decide.
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I fitted the flares properly and am happy with the gap etc, though will be getting it closer with some filler etc. I also had trouble with fitting the door flare because of the intrusion bar (the other side doesn't have them) and because I don't have access to a nutsert tool, have decided to weld a steel nut in the door instead. You can't fit a nut on the flare bolt in the conventional way because of the intrusion bar.
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Next was the door. A mate helped me to take it back to metal, epotech, then a skim coat of bog and a sealer coat of epotech. It's pretty straight, but I want to get it straighter and I have some pinholes to fill, so will be using Re-face polyester filler. I also got a set of Dura-blocks for my birthday, including a big bertha 24-in number, so once I have paper, will use it to get things flat. Thanks to Slar (Al), who I have bombarded with PMs lately to ensure I'm getting at least half right! I'll be sharing that info as the build goes on, as that's what this forum is for. Thanks mate.
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Then it was the boot's turn. I fitted a new Ernicks spoiler, then took the lid back to metal, Epotech, skim coat with Rage Gold filler then Epotech again. This is the first panel I did entirely by myself, and I am pretty happy. It's not perfect, but I did it myself... It is good enough to use high-fill to get it as straight as I can manage. I think with the Durablocks and some more practice, the last panel will be perfect. Ha ha.
There has been a lot of other small stuff going on and the shell itself is very close to Epotech and filler stage, but I don't want to put a mocker on myself by saying when it will be done, so I won't :-)
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I also had a bogan party at my place last week for my birthday (no offence to any bogans). It was bloke's only, and 15 or so turned up in fake mullets, flannies and things. We watching AC/DC and Metallica on a big UV screen, had a BBQ, fired up the Torana and revved it alot and basically enjoyed being blokes and not having to apologise for it! :-) Great fun and now an annual event, it was so popular.
#95
Posted 01 March 2015 - 09:05 PM
Solid update Sam, good to see some progress.
#96
Posted 01 March 2015 - 09:19 PM
Haha looking good Sam........so reminiscent of my build, I'm just glad all that body work is over for me ......keep at it... you'll get there.
#97
Posted 01 March 2015 - 10:36 PM
Another promise of "getting into it" and another 8 months gone...
^ We've all been there mate (actually im still there haha), good to see progress but!
Bogan party? looks like my regular parties...
#98
Posted 02 March 2015 - 05:51 PM
good stuff there Sam...time can certainly get away.
#99 _Agent 34_
Posted 02 March 2015 - 06:10 PM
Just have a party each week - but start with 4 hours of work - then BBQ and beers !
wheels look a treat.
go bro go !!!
G
#100
Posted 02 March 2015 - 08:58 PM
Thanks guys - good idea on the bogan party, Grant! And yes, some mates didn't have to dress up, some did. My neighbour, for instance is a pathologist who spent last week counting dots on a screen as part of a blood research project. He had a great time and was very interested in the Torana. Cant wait to take him for a few laps in it...
I realised I missed a step up there too, once the panels were stripped, I used my newly-acquired file finishing skills on the simple bits, my mate Hammo took over on the hard bits. I hate stuffing around with bog, so we tried to get them as good as possible before the skim coat. The door intrusion bars were annoying here again, as you can't get a dolly to a couple of the bigger dings, but they were still small enough for bog. I did contemplate a new door skin at one point...
And Al, I am wishing ti was little more reminiscent of your build in a few areas - as in straightness!
Anyway, back into it tomoz. Another door is ready to epotech and another not far away.
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