387 replies to this topic

[Rockoz]

The Delco to VK EFI would be a reasonably easy conversion Clay. I can't remember the specifics (was like 1992 when I was playing with one), but you might be able to get away with the VK EST flywheel or flex plate using the standard VK EST sensor and bracket. Just need a hole in the top of the bellhousing for out to stick through (copy off a VK). The targets are 6deg BTDC for each pair of pistons. You should be able to program the Delco to use these for the EFI. They may even be able to be used for coil packs. The crank and/or cam position sensors are the hardest part of the conversion, apart from setting up a fuel system. So this could make it a whole lot easier. 

 

I had a bit of a look at doing something similar many moons ago.

I was looking at using a distributor for the signals for the ecu to run from.

Locked of course.

I was looking at spark control as well, but not wasted spark.

One alternative was to use a chopper on the harmonic balancer for rotational position, and another chopper in the distributor to tell the ecu what stroke it was on.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[yel327]

I built a dizzy years ago using a VK EST dizzy (locked by design). It had 6 x hall effect transducers. Idea was to run sequential injection and 6 x coils. Just went and found it in the shed, see attached images. I was going to make up a cap to cover it. Realised after making it that there was no need to be so elaborate. The VK EST flywheel and sensor gives you 6deg BTDC of 3 pairs of pistons. If I wanted to do sequential and no wasted spark, I only needed a single point on the dizzy for TDC of #1 cylinder.

This was early 90's. Then I got to drive an injected 180kW VP, and realized that I was silly playing with 6cyls, waste of time! Holden had already given me an engine that would bolt in and do everything I wanted.

 

 1.jpg   175.11K   1 downloads

 2.jpg   175.96K   1 downloads

 3.jpg   179.33K   1 downloads

[stevemc32]

Cheers Clay, the Delco conversion was pretty easy, plenty of information over at pcmhacking.net and they sell various parts for modifying the computers for real time tuning.  I went the easy route with the spark and just used a locked distributor and Camira ignition module, it works ok but that's certainly an interesting modification yel327.

 

Got the sill completed today.  There's still a little bit of misalignment underneath from the jack crush but I can live with it.  Call that bit done and it's onto the drivers floor pan.

 

 20240930_150630.jpg   289.4K   1 downloads

 

 20240930_154137.jpg   419.19K   1 downloads

 

 20240930_171307.jpg   227.95K   1 downloads

[stevemc32]

Nothing too exciting with the driver side floor.  I wanted to save as much as possible since it was still original so I only cut out about a quarter up along the inner sill and gave the rest a good couple of hours in RustBlast to see how many holes opened up.

 

It looks horrible but wasn't too bad so I reckon I'll go with this patch.  Got a couple of smaller patches done on the firewall so onto the floor hopefully tomorrow.

 

 20241003_155045.jpg   389.34K   2 downloads

 

 20241005_133755.jpg   411.2K   1 downloads

 

 20241005_160617.jpg   352.24K   1 downloads

[4dabush]

Hey Steve, just my 2 bobs worth, cut over to the centre of the chassis rail, drill out the spotwelds and join it in the chassis rail area. Drill holes in the patch and spot it back to the chassis rail, with plug welds. It will be a stronger repair and you won’t have much cleaning up to do underneath. 
also gives you a chance to clean out 50 years of gunk out the chassis. 
cheers 

Adam 

[stevemc32]

That makes a lot of sense Adam, thanks for the heads up.

 

I really wanted to avoid looking any further into the chassis rail after taking the bottom corner off earlier.  I think if I'm going to open it up I might as well take both sides off and and get rid of the pock marked shitty steel on the inboard side of the rail as well.  It was blowing apart around all the holes I welded up this afternoon but I was trying my hardest to ignore it and just move on.  I think I'll better off with a patch like this one.

 

 20241005_133755a.jpg   354.55K   5 downloads

[stevemc32]

Sucked it up and cut the rest of the floor out.  Wasn't as bad looking inside the rail as I was expecting so it's all gone back together ready for some grinding.  Don't think I'll get much time on it this week but it's slowly starting to look less rusty.

 

 20241006_132634.jpg   357.68K   2 downloads

 

 20241006_153306.jpg   381.35K   2 downloads

 

 20241007_180943.jpg   368.43K   4 downloads

 

 

 

[claysummers]

Good for another 50 years


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[S pack]

Great work there Steve. Your welding skills are improving immensely.

[stevemc32]

Cheers Clay and Dave. 

 

 

Great work there Steve. Your welding skills are improving immensely.

The welding does feel like it's getting better as long as I have easy access to the part being welded.  If I can't see it, or I struggle to get into position it quickly turns to crap again!  I am enjoying it more now though so that's a good thing.

[hawk]

Good to see you getting into it more, Once the repairs start taking shape and the welding improves so will your motivation.

Keep it up.

[stevemc32]

Cheers Steve!

 

Didn't get much done this week but had a chance to get on it today.  Got the floor cleaned up a bit and sealed and I'm calling that bit done.

 

 20241022_163314.jpg   380.35K   1 downloads

 

I think this is the next part to be cut up and replaced.  I'm guessing this hole, and the same one on the other side, is where a big portion of the water that gets into the cabin comes from so hopefully it'll make a bit of a difference when fixed up.

 

 20241022_173819.jpg   363.38K   1 downloads

 

 20241022_173827.jpg   386.94K   1 downloads

 

[stevemc32]

So I've procrastinated on this next job, the rust hole in the inner guard that goes through into both the bay and the cabin, for about a month trying to figure out how to attack it.  I finally decided to cut the top half of the fixed inner guard cover off so that I could get better access.

 

I think that was the best way to do it but I've come up on another issue.  Quick question for everyone who's been here, is that big blob of filler how it was sealed up from factory?  I'm not sure whether I should punch it out as I think it'll be a bit of a pain to replace with the bonnet hinge mount over the top of it, but welding around it will also be an issue.  I figured if I did dig it out I could probably fully weld up the corner of the inner guard to firewall/cabin area before replacing the outer section of the inner guard.  Dunno really!

 

 20241124_135613.jpg   401.66K   0 downloads

 

 20241124_141113.jpg   317.24K   0 downloads

 

 20241124_143917.jpg   423.15K   0 downloads