364 replies to this topic

[SmacT]

Bastard thing. Can you weld a washer on the top and use a slide hammer? Or a bearing puller tool?

[Bruiser]

I had a hassle getting a timing gear off a 202 crank a while back.
Wasn’t weeks, but it was 3 or 4 days at least
Did the wd40 every day like you, and heat ( just a 2000w heat gun) and still no joy
She cracked when I used the heat gun on the gear and compressed air on the crank snout
That compressed air is pretty cold
like it cooled and shrank the inner and expanded the outer.
Could have been the days of wd40 I suppose, but it may be worth a try

[4dabush]

Ohhh…as Bruiser says, you can also try a can of Freeze Spray, tool shops/Jaycar/Roadtech marine sell them and try the same. The freeze spray might get the temp down that tiny bit more. You are probably already doing it, but maybe a pair of vice grips to try and twist too? Do you have the hinge removal tool, that might help but you’ll see plenty on here who’ve ended up cutting the hinge off.  Hope it doesn’t get to that. 

For your front windscreen, I used the left and right plenum repair patches from Rare Spares and bought a HT,G,K rear window repair patch that I then cut and modified to fit. Was a lot of messing around, but with a bit of dollying off the car, got to the right shape with a split in the middle of the vents. It was a helpful starting point, that’s about all.  I was fortunate that my rust was mostly superficial and limited to the outer plenum skin, so I still had 2 layers of the inner window frame edge to work against. Then got in from the heater vent panels and sealed it with seam sealer, couple of goes, then KBS’d it a couple of times using all sorts of long brushes and little rollers to get in up everywhere. Used a bike light as a torch (skinny and bright as f) and a mechanics mirror to look down inside the plenum to ensure everything was sealed properly.  The HT,G,K panel ‘might’ help.  
 

You asked about seam sealers…I didn’t see any reply’s but talk to your automotive paint suppliers. You will want what is compatible with your system. I can’t remember, but I think mine was a Soudal product. For all the inside resealing and the gutters I bought an air driven sealant gun. Much easier to get a neat job. Mine was during COVID so about every second tube was stale and gone off before I opened it. Frustrating when you think ‘this weekend I will get xxx done’,  and the product doesn’t work.  My supplier was having all sorts of problems with everything at that time. Even different brands. 
 

And if you look on my thread on the bit of stuff going on under the dash, I wasn’t sure if you were asking about the hole or the rusty marks under the seam sealer.  If it’s under the seam sealer, you might be lucky. My car was sealed on one side and not properly on the other…missed on the assembly line!  Looked similar to yours and was ok once the old sealer was removed.  Cleaned it, treated it, painted, sealed and repainted.. I spent about a day removing sealer even though my car had been sandblasted! Just patience and different picks, scribes and paint scrapers. 

You are doing well. 

 

 

[S pack]

Cheers fellas,

 

I've been hammering this hinge pin for a few weeks now and the bloody thing still hasn't moved.  Tried heating it up with the MAPP torch but that didn't seem to help so I may need to get the plumber around with his Oxy set to get some real heat into it.  Otherwise I'll just keep getting the WD onto it every day and hope it doesn't waste a whole lot more of my time...

 

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Have you tried driving the pin in a little bit rather than pulling it out? 
 

[yel327]

Bloody stupid Euro design! Holdens had bolt on hinges until we started build Euro stuff again. No straight shot at it from below with a BIG hammer and drift?

[Rockoz]

I remember one of my panel beater mates having a special tool for doing the pins.

It was a pretty big bit of gear and he used a short handled sledge hammer to belt the tool to get the pins out.

Even 30 years ago they were a pain to remove.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[S pack]

I remember one of my panel beater mates having a special tool for doing the pins.

It was a pretty big bit of gear and he used a short handled sledge hammer to belt the tool to get the pins out.

Even 30 years ago they were a pain to remove.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Made a door pin removal tool back in the 80's. Shown in the LC Workshop manual how to make it, if memory serves me correctly.
 

Edited by S pack, 26 June 2024 - 12:27 PM.

[stevemc32]

Thanks fellas, you're a bunch of deadset legends.  With those awesome suggestions and plenty more hammering and spraying and twisting I finally saw it move just the tiniest bit and worked it till that bugger was out.  I'm super glad to have not had to cut the hinge off, I really didn't want to go there.

 

Reversing the slide hammer got it in the end but I did do some damage to the sill in the process.  Gotta cut most of that off anyway so it shouldn't be a problem.

 

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The rust in there behind the top hinge looks to be through both the inner and outer part of the A-pillar.  The guard will definitely have to come off for that to be fixed properly.  Not surprising given the holes above in the cowl panel.  Different rust pattern from the passenger side, this one is the top section where the passenger side was rusted on the bottom of the A-pillar.

 

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The sill and driver side door are both similar to the passenger side but just not as far gone.  Same sort of repairs though so here comes another 6 months of work!!  I'm relieved to have the door off though, it really was annoying to be wasting time on it.

[yel327]

If you'd been around 20 years ago, I could have given you 2 x Monaro GTS bodies to play with! I cut up a blue HK GTS and a HG GTS350 (as they were too rusty!) and neither were as rusty as that! The HK was rusty as it sat on the ground, I still have the roof and firewall as they were rust free, but it was rusted up into the floor and sills from the grass and soil it was on. Plus it was only a 6cyl car and it was blue with blue trim so to me (back then) undesirable and not worth saving.

[stevemc32]

Ha, yeah I sent a 2 door LJ to the scrapyard about 25 years ago and it was nowhere near as bad as this one too.  If only!

[stevemc32]

Ohhh…as Bruiser says, you can also try a can of Freeze Spray, tool shops/Jaycar/Roadtech marine sell them and try the same. The freeze spray might get the temp down that tiny bit more. You are probably already doing it, but maybe a pair of vice grips to try and twist too? Do you have the hinge removal tool, that might help but you’ll see plenty on here who’ve ended up cutting the hinge off.  Hope it doesn’t get to that. 

For your front windscreen, I used the left and right plenum repair patches from Rare Spares and bought a HT,G,K rear window repair patch that I then cut and modified to fit. Was a lot of messing around, but with a bit of dollying off the car, got to the right shape with a split in the middle of the vents. It was a helpful starting point, that’s about all.  I was fortunate that my rust was mostly superficial and limited to the outer plenum skin, so I still had 2 layers of the inner window frame edge to work against. Then got in from the heater vent panels and sealed it with seam sealer, couple of goes, then KBS’d it a couple of times using all sorts of long brushes and little rollers to get in up everywhere. Used a bike light as a torch (skinny and bright as f) and a mechanics mirror to look down inside the plenum to ensure everything was sealed properly.  The HT,G,K panel ‘might’ help.  
 

You asked about seam sealers…I didn’t see any reply’s but talk to your automotive paint suppliers. You will want what is compatible with your system. I can’t remember, but I think mine was a Soudal product. For all the inside resealing and the gutters I bought an air driven sealant gun. Much easier to get a neat job. Mine was during COVID so about every second tube was stale and gone off before I opened it. Frustrating when you think ‘this weekend I will get xxx done’,  and the product doesn’t work.  My supplier was having all sorts of problems with everything at that time. Even different brands. 
 

And if you look on my thread on the bit of stuff going on under the dash, I wasn’t sure if you were asking about the hole or the rusty marks under the seam sealer.  If it’s under the seam sealer, you might be lucky. My car was sealed on one side and not properly on the other…missed on the assembly line!  Looked similar to yours and was ok once the old sealer was removed.  Cleaned it, treated it, painted, sealed and repainted.. I spent about a day removing sealer even though my car had been sandblasted! Just patience and different picks, scribes and paint scrapers. 

You are doing well. 

 

 

I did see that you used the rear window patch panel on your thread Adam and thought that might be a bit easier.  I've already got the two cowl end repair panels and I'm just hoping that the centre section isn't in too bad a shape for now.

 

I think the rusty section on the passenger side under the plenum is a hole but I haven't scraped all the sealer off yet to check it out.  I will be taking the guard off now so that should give me a chance to check it from the outside as well.  Thanks for the info on the seam sealer.  Haven't really thought about a finishing system as I was just planning a quick spray over the sections that I'd stuffed up just to stop it rusting again...

[stevemc32]

Not much time for getting angry at Torana's lately but started on removing the driver side front guard.  It's pretty smashed up in the front and the nose cone looks shot too.

 

Got about half the spots drilled out along the top of the guard but need to take the bonnet off to get the rest of them.  I considered just cutting it off but thought it might be worth saving.

 

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[stevemc32]

Guard is off, no real surprises underneath.  I did find a small hole that goes through to the cabin in what I believe is the same location as the one discussed before on the passenger side top corner of the firewall.

 

I removed the rusted section of the outer A-pillar but I think I'll have to take a much bigger section out of it so I can repair the inner properly.  The lower half looks pretty good down to the top of the sill.

 

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[stevemc32]

Took a little more out of the A-pillar outer skin to get a better look at the inner and got it fixed up.

 

Also had a bit of a closer look at the driver side sill today and it looks pretty familiar.  It's in a bit better condition across the middle of the sill but both front and back will need the same repairs as the passenger side.  Onto the inner sill first.

 

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[stevemc32]

Was working on the inner sill today and figured it might be easier to do the firewall brace beforehand so the inner sill isn't in the way.  Pretty poor previous repair on this, basically just duct tape over the rust and then covered in body deadener.  The outer sills both had the same treatment.

 

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