1095 replies to this topic

[warrenm]

MY LJ is a March 1972 & didn't have a hole in the trans tunnel.

[RIM-010]

I was under the impression that LC's and LJ's had different shaped shifter holes... Different gearboxes.

[Potta]

I heard they stopped putting the holes in and blanking plates in 72?

Sounds about right to me.

Good to see the car getting all shiney

[S pack]

I was under the impression that LC's and LJ's had different shaped shifter holes... Different gearboxes.

No, the 4spd floor shifter hole size and shape stayed the same from 1969 through to 1974.
The Opel 4spd used what I would describe as a pressed metal adaptor plate that had a round hole for the gearshift lower rubber boot.

[RIM-010]

I stand corrected. When I cut the hole for the shifter in my LJ, I used the blanking plate off an LC as the template, and I ended up having to cut the hole a bit bigger (I can't remember how much now) to suit the Aussie 4 speed... So I assumed that they might be different.

Learn something every day!

[sibhs]

Evening all,

 

Been cutting some more rust out and panel beating some underbody dents.

This was my first effort at the spot weld drill, once you get the hang of it, it's not too hard.

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There was a patch-up on the chassis which I removed and found this hidden below, I'll try and make this piece up and weld it back in.

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Might get some gas tomorrow and start practicing my welding.

Heres a before and after of damage to rails that I did a bit of dolly work too. Very happy with the result.

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Marty

[Potta]

Beautiful work Marty, its that attention to detail that you were talking about coming through.

 

I can tell this is going to be an outstanding car.

 

Is that rust patch where your front end bolts to the chassis?

 

No wonder it was so hard to get those bolts out 

[sibhs]

Thanks Craig,

I'm looking forward to making the bits and want it to look factory, no matter how long it takes.

That was the rusted K-frame that gave me grief, there's a bit of work involved in making that section with crush tube and thick washer inside the chassis.

Might have to see if you have any boot floor metal I can use to repair this drop tank hole. Could be a real patch work job to fix.

 

Marty

[Potta]

I've got a shell there I could probably sell you.

Has good sills, floor etc, not sure about the boot, but I can check.

Probably lots of bits you could use.

Let me know if you're interested.

[Potta]

Any updates mate?

 

Haven't heard anything for a while.

 

New boot in yet?

[sibhs]

Still spending many hours in the shed, just struggling to actually finish a task.  So many little projects on the go and I'd prefer to show all the steps to completion. 

Here are a few more pics of my rust repair to chassis.

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The inside will also have a crush tube inserted.

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I had no idea how to use the Mig so I got my neighbour who is a full time welder and has his own company. The amazing thing is, this guy is 86 and still works every day.  It was great to get some real old-school welding tips. you can't beat experience, pity I have none.

 

Heres my attempt at pulling out a dent using what I have available to me. Pretty happy with the result and will flatten out the smaller dings with a dollie.

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Clutch pedal had worn the shaft and I could see a better way of making it to spread the load

I machined up a piece of tubing to match the bush's and then drilled out the pedal to accept the tube. Now the load is over the full bush not just the edges.

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Didn't realise how many differences there are between a 72 and 73 GTR, one of them is the extra strengthening in the tunnel and beside the chassis.  This was a real mission to drill out and remove the second skin from the gearbox tunnel, thanks to Mark for the donation. 97 spot welds were drilled out then the holes welded up (cause they were too big and all over the shot) and redrilled. I've spent 6 hours on this but keep telling myself it's just a welding, grinding and drilling excercise.

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A trial fitting, I've since ground all these welds flat and want to KBS both sides before welding in. 

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Cheers

Marty

Edited by sibhs, 14 March 2013 - 10:10 PM.

[sibhs]

Hi Lamo, thanks. Great to have you on board.

Actually still on the first drill bit, it's the mini hole saw type with the spring loaded centre pin. I have also tried the other type but found my one quicker and easier but the hole it leaves is bigger.

 

Marty

[Potta]

Looking good mate, you'll be a master welder by the time you finish.

 

Is that second skin from the white car?

[sibhs]

Looking good mate, you'll be a master welder by the time you finish.

 

Is that second skin from the white car?

Sure is Craig, I'll be using the skin, chassis supports and boot floor from your old girl.

 

Had a bit of a scare when I went to buy the new sill. The problem was I had cut the old one off weld to weld and the sill from Sare Rpares only went from the lower weld to under the scuff plate, this was no good to me and their reply is what you see is what you get (not very helpful).  Luckily in Welshpool there is a real helpfull spare parts shop that made the correct sill for me, enough for my two sides for $160.  Having a go at fabricating the ends.

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Marty

[S pack]

Marty

 

If you're going to put the rail to floor pan braces from a 73 into your 72 then you'll need to remove the washers off the sides of the rails. 73's don't have them.

 

Keep up the good work

Cheers

Dave.

[sibhs]

marty you are doing a really great job there mate, question for ya,,, why did you not just fill the holes when welding support tunnel back to your floor???

keep up the great work anyways mate.

 

cheers gong

Hey Gong,  the holes were too big for my liking (10mm) thought if I welded them on the car I would burn through or not leave an original looking finish, plus they weren't uniform in spacing and closeness to edge. I realise now it's a heap of work for something that's very hard to see.

 

Hi Dave, I noticed that when I started removing the braceing off the donor, if that washer is removed there might be strength lost at that point. The braceing is very thin metal at that point. I wonder if the 73 has two internal washers eitherside of the crush tube????

 

Thanks Grant.... I'm going

 

Cheers

Marty

[Ice]

Thats what a call anal doing a great job marty keep up the good work mate

[S pack]

Marty

 

No, the 73's don't have any extra internal washers. What you will do though is purchase 2 suitable size zinc plated flat washers approx 1.2mm thick and install one onto each bolt between the nut and brace metal.

 

Cheers

Dave.

Edited by S pack, 16 March 2013 - 08:39 PM.

[sibhs]

Thats what I call anal, doing a great job marty keep up the good work mate

 

That's exactly what I was thinking..  It's like a compulsive disorder, I shouldn't do it, but can't help myself. My doctor says there's no cure.

[warrenm]

Marty

 

No, the 73's don't have any extra internal washers. What you will do though is purchase 2 suitable size zinc plated flat washers approx 1.2mm thick and install one onto each bolt between the nut and brace metal.

 

Cheers

Dave.

Do you have any pics of the 73 arrangement that you can put up?

[Potta]

That's exactly what I was thinking..  It's like a compulsive disorder, I shouldn't do it, but can't help myself. My doctor says there's no cure.

 

Maybe but I tell you what this is going to be a beautiful car when its done.

 

Keep it up mate.

[S pack]

Warrenm, some pics for you.

 

NOS right side LJ chassis rail. Note it is a 1973 type (ADR 10B compliant)

 

Note the absence of the washer spot welded to the outside face of the rail. You can also see the washer spot welded to the inside of the engine side of the rail, same as an LC & LJ pre ADR 10B rail.

 

As you can see here there is no washer on the backside of the outer face of the rail. Just constructed the same as an LC & LJ pre ADR 10B rail.

 

Last but not least, the left side floor brace on a 1973 LJ. The metal tab on the brace is welded flush against the side of the rail and a flat washer installed under the nut.