1095 replies to this topic

[warrenm]

Thanks for that, much appreciated.

[sibhs]

Thanks Linesy, that's more motivation to keep going...

 

Been sourcing more parts, finally got a major part. The boot floor.

Took a couple of hours of careful extraction but more than happy.

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Also got the RH rear chassis, mine had been butchered and was missing the rear muffler hanger bracket.  IMG_2595.jpg   33.43K   27 downloads

Cut the rust out of the boot catch brace

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Made a section to reinforce the new chassis.

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Below is the bits and some rust repair starts

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Started cleaning up the ID tags and was pissed off to find the Body ID Tag was off a 4 door.  When I bought the car the tags weren't a big concern being an "S" I noted that all rivets hadn't been removed but couldn't make out the numbers due to dirt. I did note the car had been in a bingle and another half inner and full outer LH guard had been fitted. Once I stripped the paint I found the true extend of damage, the whole corner had been changed with staggered weld joins in the nose cone, beaver etc. No damage to chassis but I gather the original tag could of been damaged or just a lazy panel beater.

I'm not going to drive/show my car with a 4 door tag on it and don't like the idea of no tag, this may only lead people to believe I have a genuine GTR with the tags in the safe.

So if anyone has a 2 door S tag from late 72 early 73 Adelaide I would like to chat.  Obviously I'm not trying to pass the car off as something it isn't. Infact it's the complete opposite.

 

Marty

 

 

[rodomo]

I've said it before, and I'll say it again.

THAT'S HOW REPAIRS WERE DONE BACK IN THE DAY!

Nothing illegal about it back then.

[71xu1]

Hi Marty not that it matters too much but do away with the sleeve you have made for the chassis more trouble than its worth. It will only act as a rust trap if you need to line the rails up use it for that with vice grips then remove.

Cheers Dave

[sibhs]

Hi Marty not that it matters too much but do away with the sleeve you have made for the chassis more trouble than its worth. It will only act as a rust trap if you need to line the rails up use it for that with vice grips then remove.

Cheers Dave

Thanks Dave, I took your advice and very happy with the chassis rails now. See below

This is the new rail cleaned up, against the old, 

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Filled the old holes from where the tow bar bolted through. Used a brass heatsink (thick piece of flat bras, copper,ali) to block the holes, then welded away, worked a treat.

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The left hand rail had about 5mm trimmed of the lip for the drop tank. That had to be fixed, so I cut the spare one of my original rail and welded it into place. I found the best way was to line up and tac weld holding by a gloved hand a bit at a time and adjusting the new piece as I go. Just couldn't use clamps or pliers, very happy with result.

Once the RH rail and the LH were ready I Rust Blasted (KBS product) the insides then painted on the KBS gloss black. Very satisfied with the result.

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While at my Dads I come across some old printing brass letters, ideal for heat-sinks.

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Picked up Bertha on Monday, took about 2 hours for me to get it off the trailer and into position. Would of been easier if I hadn't lent my engine lifter to a mate. You can see the difference between the old and new in size.

Tested Bertha on the sandblaster and even with 447 litres of free air, it's only just enough.

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Measured and drilled the extra holes required for the brake booster.

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Cut the hole for the 4 speed.

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Cheers

 

Marty

[N/A-PWR]

Great Job you are doing Marty. Dave I

 

p.s. all your tricks work like a treat

[sibhs]

Great Job you are doing Marty. Dave I

 

p.s. all your tricks work like a treat

 

Thanks Dave, most tricks picked up from you guys, some I make up myself.

Nice work marty fairly hooking into her mate. Howz the welding going must be getting better with all the work you been doing?

Cheers woosha

Hi Woosha,

I'm glad I started learning on the boot and rear repairs, definitely getting better and feeling confident about fitting the flutes.  Next will be the boot floor which will be interesting, I've got a bit of warpage from all the repairs to the floor but should be able to sort it.

Marty

[Potta]

Thanks Dave, most tricks picked up from you guys, some I make up myself.

Hi Woosha,

I'm glad I started learning on the boot and rear repairs, definitely getting better and feeling confident about fitting the flutes.  Next will be the boot floor which will be interesting, I've got a bit of warpage from all the repairs to the floor but should be able to sort it.

Marty

 

BFH should sort that out Marty 

[sibhs]

BFH should sort that out Marty 

Didn't need the BFH thanks Potta, I had a buckle which I cut a slit in and welded, all good.

Here are the picks of the boot floor being welded in, lined up really well and tacked it all the way around.

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Test fitted the tank and all the screw holes line up and it sits nice and flat.

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Bashed up Salmon

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Once the bumper support brackets were fitted I could put the car back on the rotisserie and finish off the welding from below.  Plan is to use the heatsink and slowly fill the join a bit-at-a-time. 

After welding over the KBS and it spitting and carrying on I think I'll do my welding the old school way with clean metal then protect after welding with primers and fish oil.

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Prepped and painted the brake calipers then chucked them in the oven at 90º for one hour to cure the heat proof paint.

Re-fitted rubber seals and wrapped them up for storage.

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Cleaned up the K Frame by degreasing and then high pressure cleaner, next it will need sand blasting, weld splatter ground off and re-drilling the holes lower.

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Sand blasted and rust blasted the suspension bits, testing out results with the KBS to get an acceptable finish.

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Hubs sandblasted, rustblasted and awaiting paint.

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Cheers

 

Marty

[N/A-PWR]

Hi Marty,

There is great satisfaction in painting all the suspension parts individually, great time spent. Dave I

[sibhs]

Thanks Gong and Dave, good to get the encouragement and know my thread gets read.

 

It's really satisfying doing this resto (so far) and I'm glad I didn't end up buying a restored car.

 

Marty

[Potta]

Good stuff Marty, I see a few familiar looking pieces in that lot, I'm glad they're getting put to good use.

[Heath]

Great work! Enjoying this.

[sibhs]

Well I'd heard about the amazing Molassis so I thought it was worth a try.

Unbelievable......... if you haven't tried this stuff, do yourself a favour and give it a go. I had good results after 10 days and awesome rust removal after 2-3 weeks. Check out some results below.

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More work on the boot floor, I had a wideish gap to fill at the rear of the tank lip so I made up a brass heatsink to the shape. This however failed to work and the brass actually welded to the steel.  I then used a piece of copper water pipe with more success. The brass worked fine when used flat but on it's side was RS.

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Painted a few more brake parts and cured them in the oven, assembled the hubs to rotors and packed 'em away.

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Rear bumper brackets were rusted so they had a dip in molassis then a clear coat.

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Fixed up the adjusting nut on the rat trap by welding and turning on lathe.

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Noticed a bit of a lump on the shockie mount so cut this away to reveal the damage, I'll treat this and make up a new section and weld in.

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[Stinga]

your doing a top job Marty, keep it coming!

[sibhs]

I bought a sill panel and have had to make a few adjustments. The one that I haven't read about here is the varying width of the outside flat edge. It starts at 20mm near the front of the door and widens to 24mm at the rear.  To get this to work I cut down the length of this edge and puled it out 4mm and welded it back up. My first attempt started pulling the gap in so I had to cut my tacks and use spacers to hold the distance.

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Cut out the passenger floorpan and positioned the new one.

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Assembled the pedal box, modified clutch pedal and fitted new rubbers to 2K satin painted metal.

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My champ of a son bought a grill emblem for me so I fitted that to the chrome. Looks sweet.

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Can someone tell me what this is for. I bought the firewall grommet kit and there are two of these in it.

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Got some epotec for priming the bare panels, I've been putting this off and just rustblasting bare metal but that only lasts about 6 weeks before the rust returns. Cost me $100 for this, thanks to Greg, great value if it's as good as they say.

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Having a go at making this bit for the rattrap using a high tensile bolt and turning it to size, really botching it up at the moment and need to get another cutter for the lathe. I'll get there.

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Thanks for the support guys and Potta there's quite a few parts from your old girl going on here including, boot floor, front brakes, booster, steering column, tunnel skin,etc etc.

 

Marty

[sibhs]

For those that haven't seen my Glory Box thread, here's a picture of my inspiration.

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This is where the colour and year choice are coming from. Owned this car for ten years in the 80's and 90's and had plenty of good memories from it.

 

Marty

[N/A-PWR]

Hi Marty,

Can see you have wasted no time putting your goodies to work, had a look around for your grommet query and it seems from this link (  http://www.gmh-toran...attach_id=29729  ) there are 2 of them in the kit (must be a spare). Dave I

 

http://www.gmh-toran...e-2#entry747275

 

p.s. Great Idea in recreating your Original Car

Edited by TORYPOWER, 05 May 2013 - 12:59 PM.

[sibhs]

Hi Dave, theres no mention of these grommets in that thread. There about 15mm long, they look familiar but just can't think where they go?

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