517 replies to this topic

[Bart]

Good question.
Firstly the tyres wont be too close untill i steer and the car leans over (compressing the suspension bringing the wheel up closer to the manifold) and i wont be constanly steering.
Some airflow as the car is moving will reduce the heat somewhat and some thermal rap or ceramic coating should be enough to keep the heat under control.
The clearance is approx half inch from the manifold lock to lock.

Basically you dont want to be doing a doughnut for to long (just kidding)
cant wait to see her finished

damn i forgot about that

[Bart]

Thanks guys I really appreciate the encouragement
Just couple more pics of the tank from the supply and return line view.

[Bart]

Jeez, looks complicated. There's about $400 in fittings sitting right there, lol.

And the rest lol
Bought the Tilton Brake master cylinder today from Earls
Hole sawed a hole in the firewall.
Made the bracket 2.5mm sheet, which will be welded onto the firewall, inline with the hole in the firewall, the master cylinder will bolt onto that. the master will also bolt onto the inner gaurd with 2 more bolts for extra stregth and rigidity.
Will need to buy a female rod end to attach the push rod to the brake pedal/pin
Thats all I had time for today

Template





Trial fit


Looking ok



Tack welded and bolted in, looks like its going to work



Plenty of room now

[Bart]

Thats cool
I notice there are 8 bolts holding the fly wheel, typical Nissan over engineering, this is why i love Nissan stuff
Good luck with the conversion should be easyish into a Skyline

If you mean the brake fittings its at the front of the m/c so i can go forward and curve down under the m/c or up over the m/c and behind the motor.

Edited by Bart, 20 October 2007 - 11:34 PM.

[Bart]

Nice. You reckon that clutch m/cyl is too close to the Turbo? =p

Bart, what did you do about the steering?

No it shouldnt be too close to the turbo, its hard to tell in the pic but its considerably lower than the turbo.
The steering is not a prob due to the starter motor being on te oposite side, unlike the VH45 motor, i was a bit lucky there because i was close to buying the VH45 which would have been a big prob with the starter

[Bart]

The double uni joint conversion was done a while back when i had the RB30t in it.
I was going to go auto but decided to go manual, the pics are at an angle where it looks closer than it really is but it is pretty tight.

[Bart]

The brakes are pretty much sorted, but hant finished yet, have to give some brake pedal spces to Hydroboost ie legth and pivot locations so thry can sort out boost pressures front and back.
Yeah the column was moved as normal V8 conversions
The coluor wont happen for a long time but im thinking the new Holden Purple or Green

[Bart]

Clutch Master linkage/clevis

[gtrboyy]

If you're not putting the heaterbox back in you will have to brace the firewall as it will flex.THe old dellow kits used to come with some sort of brace thatr was needed even on cars that still had heaterboxes in them.

Awsome work as usual mate.

[Bart]

Yeah ill be using the heater box, what sort of brace did it use, im guessing it was just a 2mm plate welded in, in the area where the master cylinder mounts onto?
Just to explain the above linkage a little more, its basically made from mild steel 32mm rod which has been turned on the lathe. I made up a bronze bush so it didnt pivot steel on steel as it would have squeeled over time. The bush was pressed in so it was slightly over sized.

[Bart]

Has anybody got pics or explanation on the Dellows verticle mount clutch master cylinder, apparently this is used for V8 conversions, gtrboy mentioned a brace for the master cylinder to reduce flexing on the firewall? Can anyone add to that?

[gtrboyy]

I believe dellows just had some L-shaped bracket that went from underneath the m/cyl to the firewall,still flexed a bit they said.On mine we just welded in a thick plate to strengthen that area as it flexed fairly noticeably when pedal was pushed down.

On the clucth pedal a bracket is welded on the top going downwards that the pushrod slides onto,hard to explain how but simple when you see it.I have the instruction still from dellows somewhere.

[Heath]

If you're not putting the heaterbox back in you will have to brace the firewall as it will flex.

Wow, so the heater boxes actually have some structual significance?

[Bart]

Thanks gtrboy, i think i know what you mean, ill weld a plate 2mm thick X4" X 7" approx, or the width of the top of the firewall.
The pivot of the clutch pedal to m/c i basically cut off and rewelded in different position.
I have trial fitted clutch pedal and brake pedal and looks mechanically ok in terms of pushing the m/c's. Still have to turn up the bronze bush for the brake pedal linkage/clevis.
Rang up Hydroboost and gave them my brake pedal specs, they will send me one brake booster as i have one outlet from the brake m/c, $250+$15 postage.

Edited by Bart, 02 November 2007 - 11:39 AM.

[RIM-010]

Heath, that's what I was thinking... I can't really see how a heaterbox could add that much structural integrity to something as solid as a firewall. Or are we missing the point completely?

Tim

[Heath]

Like I can see that is obviously does have a reasonably strong structual property (especially in a select direction), but I didn't think that was the kind of thing that the General would rely on... at all

[Bart]

Welded in the stiffening plate, hopfully its stiff enough.
Mounted the clutch master cylinder, the brake master cylinder bracket is partialy welded because the engine is in the way at the moment so when it all comes out again (hopfully the last time for a long time) i will fully weld it up.

[ToranaJudd]

Looks nice Bart.

I had to do this on my GTiR Last month as Nissan was renouned for skimping on the metal thickness behind the clutch pedal, end result was 3 snaped bots and the firewall taking all the load of the clutch pedal in and out on the master Cyl. I say elliminate the problem before it happens. Easier to stiffen that up than pull it apart again to weld up the hole you cause

Ill probably apadt like you have here for my 1uz/LJ project. The 2 engines seem to come a little close to the chassis rail